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OK so this discussion allowed me to reflect on it and I understood what happened & fixed it. So, the PC didn't post because the CMOS was in fact not cleared, I don't know why it DID post when I put my GPU on the second PCIe slot but whatever, thank god for it. I lowered the IF to its default frequency of 1800MHz & it worked perfect after that. I put the GPU back on the first slot & no issue. Thanks to all for allowing me to reflect on the situation, it kinda cleared my mind.

Thank you. Well, I mention it in my first post, and it's also the crux of my problem. After I cleared the CMOS (or apparently, just thought I did?), the computer wouldn't post anymore, as in, it was stuck at the very first logo (TUF logo here) on screen with the instructions to hit F2 or DEL to go to the BIOS, except it wasn't responsive at all and was just stuck there (with the green light on the mobo). I googled the issue and heard some people say it could be related to the GPU so I tried plugging it to the second pcie slot, and then it happened to work, and now I'm in my BIOS, with the CMOS not reset for whatever reason. If you can make sense of it, please, I'm all ears...

This? Hmm, what is this supposed to do? Is it going to remove the settings I already modified? Is it going to help me overclock my CPU?

Well, I have heard of this but the manual on my MOBO didn't mention it. It just said to turn my PSU off and unplug it, which is what I did. I also have zero idea what this battery is or where it's located.

MOBO ASUS x570 TUF GAMING PLUS (BIOS up to date, 1st thing I did with this new computer) CPU AMD R7 3700x GPU MSI RTX 2070 SUPER GAMING X TRIO RAM GSKILL 32GB 3600CL17 SSD ADATA SX8200 PRO HD 2x SEAGATE IRONWOLF 2TB (in RAID1 Array) PSU EVGA GQ1000W Hello all, I'm baffled. My PC was totally working, everything OK, I did a 3DMark to check and thought I had room for CPU overclocking, so I went to the BIOS, and did this : - Lowered VDDCR CPU voltage to 1.35V - Lowered VDDCR SOC voltage to 1.15V - Uped the Infinity Fabric to 1900MHz (as you would, imho the first thing one should try when overclocking a Ryzen 3000 CPU) I want to stress this is the first time I try overclocking. It didn't post. I then followed STEP BY STEP the precise instructions on my MOBO's manual to reset the CMOS (never did this before), by shortcircuiting the 2-pin CLRTC with my screwdriver. Then it wouldn't post anymore. It was stuck at the TUF logo & green mobo light. Couldn't access my BIOS. I unplugged my GPU & plugged it to the lower PCIE slot and then it did post and goes to the BIOS, only my overclocking settings are still there!!?? I cannot understand how after resetting the CMOS these could still appear in my BIOS. That's why I'm posting here. I'm kinda lost. Can anybody explain to me what is happening? I REALLY don't think I did anything outrageous with the settings and tried to stay logical but I'm at a complete loss right now. I'm also not sure how I should proceed... The current situation also means that my 3700x did post with IF at 1900MHz, right? Let me reiterate my intentions with this post: - Can anybody explain what happened? - Does anybody knows how I should proceed from here? Thanks in advance to anybody with the kindness of heart to help me. Thankyou

This is great information the kind of which I came here for, thanks man So in the end the problem is the uncertainty regarding the specific chip in this RAM kit (added to the uncertainty with that specific vendor on amazon, but that's not your problem ). I don't really want the hassle of getting an inferior product & have to send it back & all. Maybe there's a reason it's not on the QVL. Makes more sense to shell out the difference in cash and grab the known quantity that is the G.Skill 3600CL16 which is great & then try to OC that to 3733 or even 3800MHz, which is what I planned to do in the first place. Prices in Europe are simply awful, but when something looks too good to be true there's probably something fishy somewhere. Thanks for the help, GoldenLag.

My original link features a Patriot Viper kit of 2x8GB 3733MHz for €85.99 (I'm taking two for a total of €172) You offered this link with a Crucial Ballistix kit of 2x16GB 3200MHz for €178.79. I understand going for 32GB is usually sold as 2x16GB, but I don't mind using 4 slots as I don't intend to upgrade to 64GB. However I'm not losing money by going for the €172 / 3733MHz Patriot kit, and either I don't have to overclock if I don't want to, or if I do, I have a lot more potential for higher frequencies. I feel like my logic seems sound but I'm totally open to being wrong if I missed something. If I did please enlighten me. After some more digging it appears as though those Patriot Viper kits usually come with the Samsung B-die chip, and sometimes with a Hynix chip. Also, I found this review ( link ) which seems to indicate that this kit is of pretty good quality with no compatibility issue & good OC potential.

Is there something I should know about Hynix CJR chips?

Thank you for the help, GoldenLag. Sorry I wasn't clear, I'm indeed already tracking the Trident Z Neo 3600C16D-32GTZNC, that's the one I referred to being able to get for around €225. I'm in France btw So, going back to the Patriot Viper PV416G373C7K, is there a specific reason to not buy them? I'm interested in the logic behind the choice. Also the AMD sheet might be marketing material but does that make it false? Do you have any reason to believe that & why? The decoupling does happen around 3800Mhz and I've seen multiple sources corroborating the fact that the best results happen around these figures ( gamer nexus test or linus test ). If I'm mistaken about going for 3733, I'm interested to understand why

Hello everyone, So I have been thinking & looking to build a new rig & have a bazillion questions. But I'll start with RAM: My platform of choice is a Ryzen 3700x with Asus TUF Gaming MB. Here's my understanding of RAM frequencies for this: according to this graph (attached image below), the so-called "sweet spot" for Zen 3 RAM is 3733Mhz at CL17. Many people choose to buy 3600Mhz CL16 because it's a lot more readily available & cheap than 3733CL17. I have been looking at G.Skill 32GB (2x16) 3600CL16 that I should be able to get around 225€. However I just stumbled upon a pretty cheap Patriot Viper 3733CL17, but it's not on the Zen 3 list of supported RAMs ( pdf here ). Comments on Amazon do say there is zero compatibility issue though. This is a 2x8GB set so I would want to double that to get 32GB ( 2 x 86€ = 172€ total ). So my questions are: - Is this a good opportunity to get a native 3733CL17 for a good price? Is frequency more important than brand? The chip brand isn't disclosed but there are hints that this is a Hynix kit rather than a Samsung. Is Patriot a reputable/reliable RAM brand? - Should I instead stick with 3600CL16 with a bigger brand like G.Skill & pay 53€ more? - Are there performance differences between 2 sticks of 16GB and 4x8GB? If yes, what are they? - Might I try to find a 3600CL17 instead, and overclock it to 3733Mhz? I'm no overclocking expert, but it should be doable, wouldn't it? Again, keep in mind the 53€ difference, that not negligible. Thank you all for the help! P.S.: the G.Skill 3600CL16 is Samsung 16-16-16-36, the Patriot Viper is claimed at 17-19-19-39, the G.Skill 3600CL17 is Samsung 17-19-19-39. EDIT: modified title according to comment below.