jGD

MSI BIOS should have a "GAME" mode. Adds an instant 300 mHz OC to stock settings. Should not be used when manually overclocking... meant to boost out of the box settings by an additional 300 mHz.

Which version of Windows are you using?

@somdow, glad it worked out!

NVIDIA is known for some coil whine now and again...Other than that I don't have anything useful to add.

3 pin plugs will still work on 4 pin headers on the mother board. Just make sure the alignment mark is on the right pin, and you're fine.This is a very common hardware setup.

Does it still run with your old processor installed?

Are both of your graphics cards using the same driver? Perhaps a conflicting driver issue, even though both NVIDIA?

If you're getting an R5 3600, and RX 5700, that's a great combo. You're saving enough money on the two that you could by a bit nicer mother board. https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813119197 Newegg has a Black Friday deal on this ASUS Tuf Gaming X570 Plus. Better VRMs than most comparable MSI boards... great reviews from this line by most reviewers on YouTube. Only $179, and you wouldn't have to worry about much else. If you look at my build in my signature, you'll see what I was able to do with about $1,700, without any parts on hand. RX 5700 is a beast of a card. I mostly play Path of Exile and I get 90 FPS on it without a problem.

What's your budget? I am a bit partial to MSI personnally, but here is a link. You can click through the X570 boards. The one you land on with this link is only $129, and would be usable with your existing processor as well as a 3600. https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144263

I'm using a 750W from Corsair... I think you'll be just fine. 2070 Super is rated at 215 W TDP, so you have 535 W to run the entire rest of your machine. You'll really only be drawing the higher end of power during load.

Yes, open the case, remove the drive, remove the SATA to USB board from the back end of the drive, and install it in your case. The other option is that you can order a new external enclosure to install it in, especially if you want the external drive to remain portable.There are plenty of inexpensive options. Here is an example, https://www.amazon.com/RSHTECH-Enclosure-Aluminum-External-Support/dp/B07LCFQ9C3?ref_=Oct_UPriceC_160354011_2&pf_rd_r=8WDMS2QZJ6XDMSNHY8E8&pf_rd_p=6616413b-1c60-55ef-a1ae-ef9578b5d282&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=160354011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

A motherboard won't do anything without a CPU installed. The only way to modify BIOS without a CPU installed in the motherboard is to remove the BIOS chip, insert it into a BIOS Flash machine, and flash it, and then put it back in your motherboard.

It's likely the enclosure USB port on the drive. I have an 8TB seagate external that I had to take out of the enclosure and install in my system directly in order to have reliable access to it. You could wiggle the case and the drive would drop out of windows and come back with another wiggle. I think they have some bad instructions on their ICs that convert the SATA signal to USB.

Does your bios have the flash option in the settings? If you use M-FLASH in the BIOS, you select the bios file on the drive, named exactly the way you downloaded it from the website, and it should install just fine.

use robocopy via Powershell... I use that with the correct switches for resume on failed connections and copy only new files and the like. I manage about 16 TB of data for my organization as archives on triple encrypted external drives, and use that for moving terabytes on weekend backup cycles.