Yoshi Moshi

MOBO: Asus ROG Strix X570 E Gaming CPU: AMD 3900X Background: My computer was working fine, but then I had to remove my m.2 SSD. In the process I damaged one of the m.2 sockets on my MOBO. So I plugged the M.2 into the second socket. My computer wouldn't recognize it despite multiple tries. I gave up and concluded either the m.2 itself was damaged or the second socket was also damaged. So I went and bought a copy of Windows 10 Home and installed it onto a SATA SSD. Problem: It appears to be an older version of Windows 10 I don't recognize. It acts as if I don't have a network adapter. It keeps on telling me to plug in an ethernet cable, but I have Wi-Fi only were I live. It's as if I don't have the option to turn on Wi-Fi. Note that my Wi-Fi was working fine when I was booting from my m.2 drive. Can anyone help me turn on Wi-Fi please. I don't seem to have the option.

Yea I have two 560 mm raidiators. It's all one loop with the two pumps in series at max speed. I've noticed that water flows fast, real fast when I first start up the pc, but after 30 seconds or so it slows down a lot, I have no idea why. Any ideas? Is this normal? This happens with both of my pumps, even when I run one by itself, it the other one by itself. I'll try reseating my monoblock tomorrow and fresh thermal paste. I have these pumps, two of them, top as inlet (one with glass tube hanging down) bottom as outlet. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0185C4XPW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix X-570 E Gaming GPU: RTX 3090 Asus TUF (Non-OC) PSU: 1000 W EVGA Gold RAM: 32 GB Case: thermaltake Tower 900. I'm looking in HWINFO64, this is what I'm getting. Which one of these do I look at for the temperature of my CPU? Is it the CPU Die? This seems way to hot, this is just while I'm at idle basically with chrome open. I have the EK MONO block, two 560 mm raidiators with push pull fans, and two thermaltake pumps. I'm struggling to understand why my CPU is so HOT?!? I didn't overclock it or anything. My CPU use to be much cooler than this, I recall under 40 deg C, but now at idle it's so hot. Please help. I don't know why this could be.

Thanks. How do I get rid of the air bubbles? I have air bubbles in my CPU and GPU blocks that I can see, but no air bubbles in my resevoir. My CPU and GPU blocks sit higher than my resevoir. Also how do I go about adding more fluid? When I accumulated some air in my resevoir by removing the cap with the pump on the water level in the resevoir rose up a lot l, I was worried it was going to come out of the resevoir and spray everywhere. I have the same issue with the pump off.

Hello, do I need to have the reservoir at the top of my loop, meaning height off the ground? It has to be placed in this location to allow for the air bubbles to accumulate in the reservoir, so I can add more fluid? If I don't have the ability to mount my reservoir to the top of my loop, can I just use a long tube from my reservoir? The top of my reservoir has two ports, one for the return line, and one to be capped off. Do I have to have both at the same height? Meaning I need a tube for the return to the top of my loop and the capped end to the top of the loop as well? I have this kind of pump reservoir. See the picture to see what I mean by the return line and the hole for the cap.

Are there any applications of having a mixing valve (kind of like what you have in a shower system) for PC water cooling? I'm trying to think of an application of a mixing valve, but can't think of one for PC water cooling.

how do you watercool pcie slots or audio chip? i wouldn't watercool PSU, that screams danger

I have a RTX 3090 and a 3900X, on a ROG Strix X570 E-Gaming MOBO with 4 sticks of RAM. I'm trying to plan out things to watercool: Monoblock - CPU & VRMs RAM Chipset M.2 GPU Is there anything else that I'm forgetting?

You guys that already in line for Zen 3 are absolutely insane! Microcenter should start charging you rent for staying outside of the store for so long!

I enjoy high end gaming. I play on a 4k panel 120 Hz. I play on max graphical settings with RTX on. I have a RTX 3090. Is it worth upgrading to a 5900x if I already have a 3900x? I know at higher resolution not as fast FPS, you don't need that great of a CPU, because you are mostly GPU bound, not CPU bound. Is it worth it for me to upgrade? I suspect I won't see much difference for gaming?

Bump went onto second page, no explanation still

Ok thanks guys, I just wanted to be sure.

I'm not sure what is going on here. Connect explained: 1:24-1:40 After soldering on a header to the connector, hooking up some device, and detecting voltage controller: 3:30-4:46 Changing voltage: 10:56-11:33 He applied 0.6 V on the voltage mod. He said that applying anymore, it would get to warm. Can someone please provide a technical explanation on what this voltage mod is doing? He's changing some voltage from zero to 0.6 V? He's changing the voltage on what exactly to 0.6 V? He said that if he applied more voltage it would get to warm, meaning what exactly? It would thermal throttle? Thanks for any help in understanding this. I can't really find a technical explanation on what exactly this voltage mod is. Also why where there holes in the PCB and connections to support this voltage mod on a commercially released product? Is it really there for owners to do this mod?

Do I have to reapply thermal paste every time I expose the GPU to air, by removing the stock cooler that comes with the card? I'm sure this applies to all cards the same. But if not, I have a 3090 TUF. I don't know if it's like gasket material for cars, that once you expose it to air, you no longer have a good seal from one surface to the other, should always apply a fresh gasket. In the same vain, if I don't reapply thermal past every time after removing the cooler, I no longer have a water tight barrier between the two pieces of metal, is this a bad thing?

Nope changed nothing. I was in shadow of tomb raider on my 4790 at 1440p on 2080 Ti max settings. High populated areas with lots of characters on display tanked the frame rate. The CPU couldn't handle the AI and I would see my GPU drop down to like 60 percent use lol in these areas. Other areas no problem, GPU bound at 100 percent use

Man I used to have that EXACT CPU. Let me tell you. When I would play games where there were a lot of characters on screen, all that AI generation on the CPU would TANK my frame rate, even on a 2080 Ti. For example when I would get into villages with a bunch of people I would tank down to low 40 FPS, and it would be nearly unplayable at times. However in areas like jungle environments or with only a few enemies to fight, there was absolutely no problem. I was GPU bound. So I think you should upgrade your CPU. It wasn't cutting it for me. Even at 1440p, i had great issues on that CPU. I would recommend at LEAST 8 core 16 thread CPU as this is what the consoles will have. i9 9900k or the tenth generation one. Or whatever the CPU from AMD is in the 3000 series with 8 core 16 thread, or if you want get the 3900X or XT variant. I currently have the 3900x and haven't had any issues at all. Can get a higher core count so you don't have to upgrade for a bit if you want. I want to get at least 8 years out of the 3900x. I hope I can make it.

I have a ASUS RTX 3090 TUF (non OC). Does anyone know the part number for the resistors that I need to purchase and solder onto my card for shunt mod? I'm not so sure I trust flashing custom bios onto my card, but am more than confident in my soldering skills. I also will be getting a EKWB for my card. I might as well as take advantage of the performance I can get by increasing the power limit and cooling via water over air. Please and thanks.

The next generation of consoles are 4k machines though, and consoles are were most gamers are at, not on PC

3070 16 GB for 4k ultra. In about 1 month the 3080 10 GB will be outdated and can't do 4k ultra on latest games. Look above.

That's what I'm thinking. Do you the current limit on the conductors going from PSU to GPU? There's certainly a limit on that. I know that if you try to draw to much current through to thin of a wire, it will melt and overheat. How do I get a BIOS with a larger power limit?

Right so the official spec is 150 W per 8 pin power connector. When you draw more power through the connector, you don't have to worry about the conductors from your power supply to the 8 pin female connector on the card overheating? I don't understand how it's ok to draw more power than spec? I'm confused how the power supply even allows it. It's a power supply that is limited by the power rating of the power supply, right? And it allocates certain amount of power to each type of connection that you can draw up to, and I thought the 8 pin connectors were limited to 150 W. I guess I just don't understand how you can go over spec without overheating? To much current going through to thin of conductors. When the spec says 150 W is the limit, it's not true? I don't understand.

I have a RTX 3090 TUF. I have been looking into possibly using a shunt mod to get more performance and had some questions. 1) I understand how you can draw double the power, but isn't the 8 pin pcie power cable only rated up to 150 W? I understand that the graphics card would think it's drawing half the power it really is, but isn't drawing more than 150 W from a single 8 pin power connector dangerous? Like certain fan headers on motherboards are only rated to a certain amount of current. Plugging in a fan that draws more current could cause great overheating. 2) Is it only suggested to shunt mod the 8 pin power connectors and not the PCIE 16x slot that is connected to the motherboard, because it is only rated to certain wattage? 3) Has anyone tried reselling a shunt mod GPU? Does having this modification make it harder or easier to resell your card? Or do you end up just removing the extra resistor to get it back to stock?

I have a 3090 TUF non OC version that I picked up at MC on launch day. My MC had two, and thankfully I was one of the first two people in line, waited 36 hours in line. I can confirm on my card that it does not have the cheaper CAPS. Also the TUF non OC card is the only non-reference card that you can pick up at MSRP (other than FE) that has a WB for it. If you can't trust known brands, than look at the brands making cards on the reference design, they are all manufacturers I have never seen for sale at physical stores. Also fun point to note - The backplates on the cards do not cover up the CAPs! Very interesting. Why didn't they put a thermal pad over it and allow the backplate to go over it to spread out the heat? Clearly there's some stability issues with cards, at higher clocks the CAPs seem to have issues. Anywho, the backplates from EK cover the CAPs and you put a thermal pad over it. This might have some actual benefit, the EKWB backplate over the stock backplate. I'll try it out and see if it makes a difference.

I've been using my 3090 for a few days now. I must say, I'm blow away. We are at the point in computer hardware, where you need a 4k 120 Hz panel in order to not bottleneck your GPU. Even in the most graphically demanding game (Control), on ultra with ray tracing and DLSS on - I'm getting well over 60 FPS at 4k and it's absolutely beautiful. Apparently statistically most people are on 1080p. I think the days are limited for 1080p. 1080p - you looked amazing when you came out, but your now dead to me, may you rest in peace. The only thing that is going to continue to drive 1080p is people who play first person shooters who want as many frames as possible. We are now going up to 1080p 360 Hz panels. I think we may be at the point of little to no difference for humans for anything higher than 360 Hz. More and more people are going to be saying bye to their 60 Hz 1080p panels and upgrading to a higher resolution and higher refresh rate. I reckon that within the next decade, 8k gaming will be possible. We are "almost" there now, and in the next generation or two I think we might be there. We will start to see 240 Hz 4k panels becoming common and the prices of 8k panels coming down. The only "bottleneck" will be having a big enough wall or desk to put your 8k panel on. I'm blown away that I need a 120 Hz 4k panel to avoid bottlenecking, that is all.

Right. What I'm saying is I'm fine with a 4k 120 FPS panel. I don't have a need for a higher refresh rate greater than 120 Hz or 8k panel.