Yoshi Moshi

Hello, So I figured out what was wrong with my computer. I guess while I was rotating my computer around to try and get the air bubbles out, one of the data cables for the SATA SSD came undone. I plugged it back in and my computer booted up fine. This is a bit concerning for me, because I thought that my computer was booting from the M.2. All of my files and apparently the windows files are on my M.2 SSD. It seems that the UEFI partition was stored on my SATA SSD? Does anyone know how I can fix this. I believe Disk 2 to be SATA SSD, and Disk 1 to be the EFI system thingy that I need on my SSD so I can boot from Windows from my M.2 SSD. Really weird and I'm not sure how this happened. But it would explain the symptoms I was having and how this issue came about from me replacing the pump.

Hey thanks so much for the help! This is what I get when I don't press any buttons to get into BIOS It does not look like I have a windows boot manager. Here's some pictures to help. I don't have the option to do an Automatic Repair when I have either Windows 10 or Windows 11 USB installation media in my computer This is what I have All I have is "Startup Repair" Odd. When I try doing this, it doesn't seem to work. This is what I have. Thanks for all the help! I appreciate it. What else do you think I can do to help troubleshoot this issue?

Here are the specifications of my PC: MOBO: ASUS ROG X570 E Gaming CPU: AMD 3900X GPU: Nvidia 3090 Memory 32 GB OS: Windows 11 (I'm not sure which version but I actively kept up with updates and previously had Windows 10 Home before I upgraded to Windows 11) SATA Device 1: SDD SATA Device 2: Optical Drive M.2 Device 1: SSD The water pump in my computer was failing, so I replaced it. Otherwise my computer was working fine. I did not reseat any device while replacing the pump, or disconnect any other device. Now I can't boot into Windows 11 from my M.2 device. I successfully get pass the POST and it went straight into BIOS. All of my SATA and M.2 devices show up in BIOS under boot configuration where you can set the boot priorities. The correct amount of RAM shows up in the BIOS. The correct CPU shows up. I tried trouble shooting using several different methods. I plugged into the USB port a Windows 10 Home Install device that I purchased at Wallmart. When I try to reinstall windows but keep all of my files - It wouldn't let me, it said you can't install windows 10 from a USB drive. Weird. I tried using the Repair PC option. No OSs appeared so I went into advanced options. I tried doing a system restore but it wouldn't let me. I tried doing a System Image Recovery, but it wouldn't let me. Interestingly enough when I try to search for a drive in this interface, I'm able to open up file explorer. I can open up the M.2 device in file explorer and go through the files. All the files that I had on drive before seem to be there, including Windows files and folders. So it seems like all of my files are on the M.2 device. I tried doing automatic repair, but it wouldn't run. I tried creating a Windows 11 Installation Media on a USB device. I plugged in the device into a USB port and booted from that. When I tried to reinstall Windows 11 but keep all of my files, it won't let me. It tells me that my PC doesn't meet the minimum requirements... which is strange because it does and I had Windows 11 on this computer and it was working fine without any problems. When I open up the command prompt using the repair my pc option with either the Windows 10 USB installation media or the Windows 11 installation media, I'm able to open up the command prompt. I tried the following commands diskpart select disk 0 list vol When I did this, there were no volumes with an "EFI" label, I think this is my issue? I try the following commands on the M.2 device in command prompt. bootrec/FixBoot It says it completed successfully. ren BCD BCD.bak It cannot find the file, I think this is an issue. Thanks for any help you can provide. This is getting really frustrating. I think my issue is that I don't have a EFI partition on my drive? I'm not entirely sure. Thanks for any help! Let me know what other steps I can take or things I can do to better determine what's wrong with my computer.

I like the way you think. Just undo the change. Maybe I was drawing to much power with the pump. With the pump off though I still have the same issue. I'm pretty sure it's the only thing I did. I have a 1000 W power supply. Single CPU and video card setup. Should be way more than enough. BIOS -> Boot -> CSM (Compatibility Support Module) -> Boot from Storage Devices -> "UEFI only" change to "Legacy only" BIOS -> Boot -> CSM (Compatibility Support Module) -> Boot from PCI-E/PCI Expansion Devices-> "UEFI only" change to "Legacy only" I've tried both options for storage devices and PCI-E devices, Legacy only and PCI-E only, with pump on and off. Makes no difference. Interestingly my devices are only recognized in boot priority configuration if the following is true BIOS -> Boot -> CSM (Compatibility Support Module) -> "Launch CSM" is "Enabled" AND BIOS -> Boot -> CSM (Compatibility Support Module) -> "Boot Device Control" is "UEFI and Legacy OPROM" I use a Windows 10 Home USB boot/install drive. It also recognizes my SATA devices and M.2 and gives me the option to install windows on them, which I don't want to do. On my M.2 SSD it's reporting that it's nearly full (like how I had it before installing the pump) so I don't think the contents got erased. However I don't have the option to select a operating system to "Repair my Computer". So when I try to "Startup Repair" from the Windows 10 USB install device or "System Restore" or "System Image Recovery" it won't let me However In "System Image Recovery" I can navigate to my M.2 storage device and see all the files on it, including windows files. However it won't let me recover on it. I can see if I can find the "Setup Information" it's looking for but I'm not really sure what that is. This is pretty weird. Thanks for any help guys.

Hey thanks for the help. I had a M.2 SSD in their the whole time before and after installing the new pump I don't see anything in my MOBO manual about that. I did some more trouble shooting. BIOS -> Boot -> CSM (Compatibility Support Module) -> Boot Device Control Option, change from "UEFI only" to "UEFI and Legacy OPROM" Then I save and reset. Now when I go into the Boot menu. I see under boot options priorities my M.2 SSD and SATA devices. Weird... However now when I don't enter the BIOS I get a black screen with white text "Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key" So some progress but still can't get into windows. And I know for a fact that I had windows 11 OS on the M.2 SSD, which is recognized I'm BIOS but I can't get into the OS This is really weird. Thanks for the help and let me know, does these symptoms help diagnose my issue at all?

What Happened: Computer was working fine, except for my water pump. I drained some of the loop and added in a new pump. I go to power it on and it won't recognize Storage Devices so I can't get into windows. I did nothing else. I didn't unseat and reseat any devices. Hardware: MOBO: X570 E Gaming CPU: AMD 39OOX GPU: Nvidia RTX 3090 RAM: 32 GB SATA Device 1: Optical CD Drive SATA Device 2: HDD SATA Device 3: SSD M.2 Device: SSD Details: The system successfully posts. I get into the BIOS but not the OS. The GPU seems to be working fine. In the BIOS I see the correct CPU is recognized In the BIOS I see the correct amount of RAM and speed None of my storage devices are recognized. I go into the boot options to select boot configuration and nothing comes up. Not the optical drive, HDD, SATA SSD, or M.2 SSD I put in the USB port a Windows installation device to trouble shoot. It appears to not recognize any storage devices here either. When I try to recover windows, no images are found The SATA devices are connected and getting powered. Maybe I screwed something up and something shifted while I was moving my computer around. But I find it very hard to believe all 3 SATA devices got screwed up as well as my M.2 drive. Something doesn't seem correct with the symptoms I have. Thanks for any help!

Anyone ever use a Pico-ITX MOBO in their computer? I'm looking for builds people have done and what case they used, etc.. Thanks.

I have the following pump Reservoir Combo https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0185C4XPW?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_titl The pump part has gone bad. Is there any way I can replace only the pump part instead of buying the only thing? If so what kind of pump would work? Would it just be any pump? Thanks for the help as I'm not sure what would be a suitable replacement.

So a winding sound is normal operation? When I first got the pump and turned on to the 5th setting, I never heard any winding sounds, it's not only until now, after a few months of being on the fifth setting, have I had this winding sound, making it seem to me that it's not normal, even on 5th setting

which D5 pump would work if i kept the resevoir?

I have two of the following pumps in my loop. bought one on July 6, 2020 and a second one on November 16, 2020 The first one, I started hearing a winding noise that slowly got louder and louder. The pump still moved water, it was just really loud, so I bought another one on June 19, 2021. Now I'm hearing a slight winding noise coming from the older one. I'm worried that it's going to happen again and it's just going to get too loud and I'm going to have to get another one again. Are these things under any type of warranty? I bought them off Amazon. I don't know what I'm doing wrong? Is the winding noise mean it's broken, or I can just simply take it apart and put it back together to see if it fixes it. I've NEVER EVER ran any of these pumps dry before, and don't know what I'm doing to cause them to fail. It's very frustrating, because I just got all of the air out of my loop. When the first one failed, I figured I could just get the pump part and not have to buy the whole assembly. This is the pump. Is it possible to just buy the pump?

So what exactly does my check valve do? I'm not even sure other than stop flow when it's closed. Is there any check valves that you can point me towards that allow flow in only one direction that i can put in my computer?

I don't understand I thought a check valve was to only allow water to flow one way? Meaning say I had the valve in the open state. I was expecting water to flow Left to Right only and that if water attempted to flow Right to Left the valve would close and water wouldn't be able to flow in this direction. Am I misunderstand what a check valve is supposed to do? What exactly does this Barrow Check Valve do?

I have a couple of these check valves. I thought check valves work in the way where they only let fluid flow in one direction, but this doesn't seem to be the case. I put the valve above in the closed state. I hold it up vertically and put water in one side and it doesn't flow through. I flip the valve and repeat, no water flows. It appears that the closed state prevents water from flowing in both directions. I put the valve in the open state and hold it up vertically. I then put water at the top and it flows through. I flip the valve over so the bottom is now at the top and put water in it and it flows through. It appears that this check valve allows water to flow in any direction?? This isn't what I was expecting when I did this test. I was expecting water to flow in only one direction. Any help?

How do I file a claim with the company? Thanks for the help. It's really strange that it failed. Because I have kept the monitor in the same spot the whole time, hasn't moved an inch after I powered it up for the first time, or has seen much movement.

I have the following monitor: bought it September 17th 2020. Now sometimes when I turn on the TV the whole image is blurred out like so. Seems like if I turn it off for a few hours, and then come back and turn it on, it's fine. Until the screen turns off from me not using the computer and it goes blurry again like below. Here's my troubleshooting steps: I unplugged the display port cable from the video card and tried a different display port socket on my video card and got the same result. I then replaced it to the original socket on the video card. I unplugged the display port cable from the faulty monitor and plugged it into a different monitor, the different monitor had no issues and got a good picture. I unplugged the display port cable from the faulty monitor and tried a different display port socket on the same faulty monitor, got the same issue. I tried wiggling the display port cable while it's plugged into the faulty monitor and saw no difference. I unplugged the power cable from the wall outlet and plugged it back in, same issue. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can solve this monitor problem? Or maybe the product is still under warranty? I'm not entirely sure as I have never had an Acer monitor before. Not to mention it it is very big, would be a pain and expensive to ship it. I'm not very happy that this monitor is failing considering how expensive it was, and I've had it for only a few months without issues. First time I've had a monitor fail on me like this. Thanks

I camped out for 48 hours for it haha on release date. I am using a splitter. I guess it's worth trying.

No I do not. I don't know if it matters or not but I have a GPU with LEDs in it. Asus TUF 3090 The GPU has a three pin LED connector. My MOBO has only one three pin LED header. So I have my LED strips and GPU plugged into the same header. In Aura Creator, The GPU and LED strips have the option to be set as different layers, but they are all connected to the same header. This seems troublesome. Is this an issue?

I have three pin LED strips in my PC. When I power-up the PC they illuminate for for short period of time (less than a second) then immediately turn off. So it seems that they are connected and receiving power. This happens every time I power-up. Motherboard: Asus X-570 E-Gaming CPU: AMD 3900X I have tried adding them as a layer in a profile in Asus's software Aura, but they will not illuminate. Can anyone provide any suggestions on how to fix this?

Bump went on second page

Bump went on second page

https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Controller-Expansion-Profile-Converter/dp/B07Q2S9SK3/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=nvme+to+pcie+adapter+x16&qid=1606145543&sprefix=nvme+to+pcie+adapter&sr=8-7 So something like this? I have a 3900X and would like to get 4.0 PCIe speeds, but this this advertises 3.0 speeds. I don't think the adapter dictated the speed but the MOBO right? I should still be able to get 4.0 speeds?

I damaged my M.2 slot on my motherboard. I see I can buy replacement headers online. Is it possible to unsolder the old socket, and solder on a new one using hand solder tools?

Thanks guys that worked. Helped me out w lot!

Thanks for the help! What website would that be? Sorry I haven't done this before.