Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Yoshi Moshi

Member
  • Content Count

    19
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards


This user doesn't have any awards

About Yoshi Moshi

  • Title
    Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. CPU: AMD 3900x GPU: Zotac Gaming GeForce RTX 2080Ti Storage: Sabrent Rocket NVMe 4.0 1 TB Memory: Corsair 8 GB 3200 MHz x4 (total 32 GB) MOBO: ROG Strix X570 e-gaming My computer was working great, but I then replaced the stock cooler that came with the CPU with a EK monoblock. The system had difficulty booting. I would get the typical test sequense I would always get while attempting to boot. All three QLEDs (RAM, CPU, VGA) would cycle through all three twice but would not boot, and would go through this endless test sequence over and over). After resitting the video card and RAM numerous times it boot and I got into windows. I was able to restart the computer multiple times. Only strange thing was the setup information screen would pop up every time telling me what CPU, RAM, and storage was identified. I would then have to hit F1 to enter BIOS, then "Discard Changes Without Saving" in the bios to get into windows. This was the only strange abnormal thing I was experiencing. A few days go by of me using my computer without issue (other than the setup screen coming up and my work around I was willing to live with to get into windows) and now I have the same issue of not being able to boot. I get a black screen. Nothing appears. I literally touched NOTHING in my PC between the last time I was using it just fine and now. And my PC literally sat in the same spot, didn't move it. Nobody bumped it hard or anything. And now I can't boot. I get the endless test sequence where it cycles through the QLEDs endlessly. A single LED does NOT stay on indicating a issue. It just turns on one, turns it off, then goes to the next one, over and over without booting. I've tried resitting my RAM and Video Card multiple times and still have the same issue, can't boot. Something really strange is going on because I didn't touch the thing after I turned it off and now it's not working. All the fans spin up and everything while attempting to boot. Yes I have the CPU power connected. Yes the video card is getting power, LED on it is on and fans are spinning. I really have no idea what the issue is. Thanks for any help!
  2. that's what i was thinking, and i'm not even hitting 50 C
  3. I got this playing tomb raider, still looks to cold?
  4. I just built my first rig with a 3900x. While gaming I saw a maximum temperature of 33 deg C on "CPUTIN" and 61 deg C for "CPU". Not exactly sure what the difference is between the two or which one i should be using. Shouldn't it be closer to 80 deg C (not sure if that's CPUTIN or CPU). I think it's to cold?
  5. So I left the system running, and it worked no more gurgling sound, however now I have air pocket in resevoir. Do I have top it off or is this unnecessary? And do i do this with the pump on or off or doesn't matter
  6. How do I go about avoiding it next time I fill it up. So I run it for a long time and wait for the air bubbles to go to the top of my resevoir and then just *top it off"?
  7. I could if necessary. Just simply tilting it won't work?
  8. I just built my first custom loop. I'm proud to say that there are no leaks. How ever I hear the sound of gurgling water. I believe this is due to air within the loop and I need to bleed it out? How exactly do I go about doing that? I opened the caps at my radiator and fluid came out a little so I closed them back up. The sounds seems to be coming from my radiator though. Thanks for any help.
  9. Can someone please point me to a product that I can put in my computer that will turn off my computer if there's a leak in my water cooling loop? Please and thanks!
  10. In any case, where there's mounting holes to mount a fan, you can place a fan as either intake our outtake. People seem to say that it makes sense to put the radiator on the intake fans, because your pulling air from outside of the case that's colder than the air inside the case and pushing it through the radiator. This brings the radiator closer to the temperature of the air outside of the case, cooling the radiator. Does it ever make sense to place the radiator in the outtake fan slots? I don't see how this would help because you would be pushing hot air though the radiator, wouldn't this heat up the radiator? Would I see any benefit in feeling all slots with radiators? Meaning every slot for a fan, I put a radiator as well as a fan.
  11. I understand so the tube is supposed to sit flush with the rest of the fitting, before the threaded portion, and the locking ring is supposed to sit flush with the rest of the fitting? I was able to get the tube flush with the fitting, after a lot pushing, but had no lock with the locking ring. It doesn't seem to be possible with my hands. Is there a tool that I can use, it's not possible with my hand. This is as tight as I could get it, with hand fighting. There's still a gap between the locking ring and the the rest of the fitting. Is this ok? There's still about a thread and a half left.
  12. I ordered a bunch of water cooling parts online for my first water cooling build. The fitting in particular that I'm using is a Bykski Flex 10mm ID x 13mm OD Fitting - White (B-FT3-TN-V2W). Product page is here: https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/fittings-connectors/bykski-flex-10mm-id-x-13mm-od-fitting-white-b-ft3-tn-v2w-b-ft3-tn-v2w.html The tube that I'm using is PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 3/8in. ID X 1/2in. OD - Crystal Clear. Product page is here: https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/water-tubing-soft-hard/pvc-soft-tubing/primoflex-advanced-lrt-10ft-tubing-3-8in-id-x-1-2in-od-crystal-clear-pflexa10-12.html If you look at the details of both products. Download the pdf from performance-pcs, both claim to be 10 mm ID 13 mm OD. I can't seem to get them to mate however. I really struggle with getting the tube over what I believe is called the barb? There's a lip sort of thing, where the barb gets wider until it gets to the lip. After it gets to the lip it narrows out to a perfect cylindrical shape. Anyways after struggling I was finally able to get the tube to go over the barb completely (not shown in picture) so that way it was flush with the the rest of the fitting, kind of like how you see in the last picture that I attached. The tube was flushed with the fitting, right before the threads. Now once I accomplished this, and boy was it on there tight and took a lot of work, I was not able to get the locking ring completely on . Is the locking ring supposed to thread all the way down so that it's flush with the rest of the fitting? Kind of like so except with a tube sticking out of it? So that way there's no gap at all between the locking ring and the fitting? No mater how hard I twisted I could not get the locking ring to sit flush with the rest of the fitting. So I figured I would stop before I broke something and come on here to ask for help. Looking at the products I got, the inner diameter and outer diameter match. The fitting on got is advertised for flexible tubing (not hard tubing). So I'm really lost here on why I'm having such great difficulty. It was a great pain to get the tube over the barb and sit flush against the fitting. I wasn't successful in screwing the locking ring all the way on so that it sat flush with the rest of the fitting. Sorry if this is a noob question, I thought maybe it was the difference between 3/8 inch and 10 mm, as well as 1/2 inch and 13 mm. But the tube is advertised as both, while the fitting is advertised as 10 mm and 13 mm. And the difference between 10 mm and 3/8 probably doesn't make much of a difference when I'm using flexible tubing that can stretch that small difference. I also ordered multiples of these fittings. I tried another one of these fitting, and had the same issue.
  13. that looks great! But like you said that's a travel distance of 77 mm. Do you know of something that is smaller, like less than 10 mm?
  14. I'm surprised something pre-built like this doesn't already exist.? I can't find anything. I like the idea of setting something up so that if the CPU gets to hot shut off the system. My only concern with this method is that if I have a small leak, and fluid slowly leaks out, it may take some time for the CPU to reach that temperature setpoint of shutting off the system. Meaning I think too much fluid would leak out before it shuts off, and a liquid level switch might turn off the computer with less fluid required to leak out. I could do something like if the fluid in the reservoir depletes by like 10 mL, shut off the system.
  15. Is there a liquid level switch I can put into my system, that gets actuated when the liquid level in my system gets low? Like a switch or some other sensor that I put into my reservoir, the switch gets actuated when the level is depleted in my reservoir, turning of my computer. Can you point me to such a sensor? I would like to leave my computer on when I'm not home, but I'm scared to do so with liquid flowing through it, but if there's some sort of switch I can put into my system that turns off the system if fluid gets low, it would be great.
×