Bender Blues

All tracks were 'read-only'. Unchecked for editing. Reapplied 'read only' then save.

The only thing changed in metadata was the "Halo 9" removed from the end of the album name. Save metadata, poof: all details gone. If you look back into the metadata - all the info is in there: title, artist, track etc (untouched).

What gives here?!

7 hours ago, si1enze said:

https://www.isunshare.com/windows-10/activate-window-by-hovering-over-it-in-windows-10.html

Ohhh lorrddyyy!!! I can not thank you enough, thank you thank you!!!

Spent 20 minutes with GPT and Bard trying to explain what this feature does and neither could ID it.

Bard told me to call MS

Thanks again si1enze!!!! 

W10

I enabled this 6 months ago and must turn it off - problem is, I can't remember what its called. Worse, don't know if I can explain it.

Say you have four explorer boxes on your desktop, maybe a photo in a resized window. None of them are "active", you have to click in it to "wake" said title bar or box.

This feature is so you don't have to click, you can just hover your mouse over one of them and its 'active' or 'awake' and the title bar turns to whatever theme color you have.

This is so hard to explain, I hope someone understands it. Arrggh. 

1 hour ago, WereCat said:

just scroll down in that window

Gotcha. I explained above, think I've interpreted something wrong I saw.

Thanks a bunch.

1 hour ago, porina said:

If you want native 1080p it is probably further down that list, because that screenshot area is showing you the scaled output section of the options.

 

For NIS to work it has to make a virtual lower resolution for the game to use, which is that section you're looking at. Native will be elsewhere.

 

Basically, pick those options in game only. For native desktop use the native setting.

Thank You. Yeah, I've always had it at 1920, further down the list. But I thought after you enabled the scaler, you were supposed to pick one of those resolutions at the top, then chose in-game. Thats what in a yt clip, after he picked one of those scaled resolutions at the top and he hit apply, it didn't change his desktop resolution. Then he want in-game.

Fair to say that's wrong? 

Thank you again, much appreciated.

Native 1080p here.

Enabled image scaling in Nvidia control panel. Then went to 'change resolution'.

Lists the scaled resolutions above the native resolutions in the drop down.

If I pick like in the picture, 1080p, its resizing the entire desktop. Asks if I want to keep - uh no.

Why is it changing my desktop resolution? I thought the nvidia image scaler was only for use in games? And if so, why is it doing this?!

Thank you.

23 minutes ago, djksm said:

could the screen be dead? try to connect it to a different display.

if not then plug in a different charger, that worked with my toshiba sattellite

Negative, this is no lights on front, no nothing. Pressing power is like like not pressing it. No fan, no lights - nothing.

As I said, tried two Tosh working PS's. Both metered 19.2V output. 

Thanks though

Died for no reason. She's older, but its use is a single task, so kinda need it.

Two power supplies (orig / extra) both metered @ 19.2V, no startup, no lights, zip.

Removed battery, tried both Tosh PS's. No workie. 

Disassembled, everything removed to get to the mobo. 

19V to the back of the female charge jack.

19V to the motherboard, where power jack ribbon attaches. 19V on both hot lines after the attachment, going toward power switch. 

19V at the micro power switch on the motherboard.

Zero lights on the front of laptop.

Maybe some ideas?

TY, hope your Sundays going well.

Just now, BondiBlue said:

Yep, that's a bog standard laptop hard drive from several years ago. The Seagate documentation for that model lists a maximum speed of 140MB/s, which is under completely ideal conditions. You're not using this drive under those conditions, and the real world performance will be lower. Based on that the speeds you're getting are fine. 

That's completely normal. It's a SATA hard drive, and it's connected with a SATA to USB adapter inside the enclosure. That's why it's listed as a SATA drive. 

Yes, many several years ago.  Good catch on that 140MB/s, talk about misleading. Thats not what I read on the description when I bought it.

Glad to hear its fine.

Thanks to JL above, that policy change did actually make a difference. 3+ hours to transfer originally to 45 minutes. I can live with these numbers now hehh.

Ahh see what you're saying on the connection. It is SATA. But its "portable" so its SATA>USB - which isn't ideal.

Cheers Bondi!

1 hour ago, porina said:

I did ask. Unfortunately the model of an external drive which uses an enclosure doesn't tell us the actual model of the drive itself, which is the spec I'm after. I also don't see a part number reported in that other screenshot.

 

Maybe give CrystalDiskInfo a try? There is still a chance it gets blocked by the enclosure translation to USB.

Ahh I see, my apologies for misreading. 

Here ya go. It is 100% the E: drive and selected.

Wonder why it says interface is serial ATA - weird. Its USB.

2 hours ago, JLssg4 said:

Is there any difference between this HDD and an external HDD? (I can picture an external HDD with USB...just never seen another form to be sure I'm talking apples to apples.)

I had one external HDD that had a properties setting for either quick removal or performance.  Right click on that drive -> Properties -> Hardware -> Select that drive from list and click properties -> Policies....see if there's anything similar to quick removal vs. performance.  [quick removal means slow read/write]
 

After reading this thread just now, sounds about as good as its gonna get... argh.

But! Changing that policy did yield a bump in writes, so thats not a bad thing!

Cheers, and TY for your solution.

EDIT: 

Damn, that policy change and that slight bump in writes went from 3 hours+ for the transfer to 42 minutes. Nicely done JL!

Ill take the bump 

2 minutes ago, porina said:

Link to product doesn't tell us much, and it'll take more searching than I can be bothered with to try and find out what is really inside. All the manufacturers have transitioned to SMR drives on the low end, and I would not be surprised if this was one. If so, it'll cripple write speeds. Look at the reports when they were first introduced in low end NAS drives.

 

The read speeds are within expectations. A big capacity 7200rpm desktop drive might get 200MB/s sustained at the start of the disk, and it'll drop tens of % by the time you reach the end. A 5200rpm 2.5" drive is going to be way worse, even if it wasn't SMR.

 

This is a good point. Write performance might suffer if write caching is limited for safety on removable drives, but it shouldn't affect reads.

Someone asked what drive it was, thats why the link. There is no searching, that is the drive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H4XH5IG/

If you want to know whats on the inside, its in the first post, on the purple screen. Maybe you didn't catch it.

18 minutes ago, JLssg4 said:

Is there any difference between this HDD and an external HDD? (I can picture an external HDD with USB...just never seen another form to be sure I'm talking apples to apples.)

I had one external HDD that had a properties setting for either quick removal or performance.  Right click on that drive -> Properties -> Hardware -> Select that drive from list and click properties -> Policies....see if there's anything similar to quick removal vs. performance.  [quick removal means slow read/write]
 

This is an external. Its this one, nice at the time. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H4XH5IG/

Did the policy thing. It was set for quick removal. Clicked performance and cachhing checkbox (need to use 'safely removal USB' now).

Same speeds.

But Im gonna reboot and test with Crystal again.

 TY!

20 minutes ago, porina said:

What is the exact model of the HD? 100 MB/s reads isn't far off for a lower end HD, especially one that is quite full so the data is more likely put at the inner slower part of the disk.

 

Writes probably could be faster, unless it is a shingled drive, in which case it can suck that bad.

 

Maybe a good defrag might help also.

Seagate, right here, bought in new years ago. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H4XH5IG/

Defraged her a few weeks ago. Not a lot of activity on it since.

Its not that far off? Man, I would assume it cant crawl that slow. 

Thanks for replying!

My conundrum: Atrocious USB transfer speeds.

These are the results on my USB HDD, using 3.0 port. Tested the other 3.0 port, same speed. 2.0 port obviously worse.

I understand its a 1gb 5400 spinner with "ok" R/W speeds, but that can't be even 'ok'. 

Tested another 2tb drive, horrid. Tried two other cables, same crawling speeds.

Rebooted just for kicks, same.

Any ideas/tips on what to try on this W10 machine? CPU/ram a plenty, and plenty fast ( i7 - 16gb). Its not hardware bottlenecked.

Thank You.

29 minutes ago, manikyath said:

i mean.. we dont need GPU acceleration to have some stunning browser based games.

 

lego used to have a propper 3D racing game with somewhat acceptable suspension physics on their website, and honestly.. the "lego worldbuilder" series of games deserve better than just be burried alive along with flash..

 

i'm happy projects like Flashpoint exist to keep the classics alive.

 

as for modern day examples...

https://shapez.io/ - is a pretty feature-complete demo. factory builder / automation optimization type game.

https://orteil.dashnet.org/cookieclicker/ - i assume this made enough hype waves that you know what it is.. and it's gotten quite expansive trough time.

https://faedine.com/games/crank/b39/ - a bit dated by now, but a game that goes much deeper than you would expect at face value.. saying more would spoil the fun.

Awesome! I'll give those a look when done replying.

Thats the answers I'm looking for, Thank You!

Anymore, anyone?! Some favorites maybe?

1 minute ago, AbydosOne said:

Teracopy? Though in all likelihood, you're limited by filesystem and drive performance overhead.

I'll give that a try. Although, everything I've read - all things equal, Tera is a bit slower than FastCopy.

30 minutes ago, DrMacintosh said:

The real question is how fast is the storage media that you're copying from and copying to? If the folder is only 100GB or so and you delete the old one, you only theoretically need 200GB of storage. A cheap 500GB SSD would give you plenty of headroom. A fast NVMe 1TB drive can be had for a little over $100 USD. You also have to consider the transfer protocol, are the drives connected internally via SATA/PCIe or USB?

Right. Yes, its a 2tb USB drive on 3.0

The speed of the drive not really an important - if its slow or fast, in will be slow or fast with various copy programs.

So all things equal, I'm just looking for a program thats faster then explorer. And so far, they are slower.

Need to keep a folder up to date maybe every month or so.

I usually copy said newer folder, paste it, delete the old.

This folder is roughly 100gb in size. Windows (10) takes roughly 3 hours to complete. So I thought I'd go find something.... all the talk about "FastCopy", installed and...

Its horrible. Same 100gb folder would take 6 hours and 20 minutes with FastCopy. wtf?!

Used windows Robocopy - its twice as slow as copy/pasting.

WizFile is an awesome (magical) search program. Somehow, its search is just as fast as pressing the enter key. That fast. Building the database when first opening, its a flash of time.

Wish they made something for copy/pasting 

Any ideas?!

14 minutes ago, LapsedMemory said:

If you have XBox Game Pass Ultimate, you can play the cloud-based games in an Edge browser and not all of them suck.  

 

When I was a subscriber, that's how I played some of the games on my Linux install when I didn't have access to my Windows machine. 

Wow, thats cool!

Never heard of such a thing.

I hope others will share here, not sure why I'm not seeing more replys 

Little lame I know, still a fun time killer.

This site: https://antibody-software.com/munchyworm has a fun, in browser "Centipede" like game. Try it, you'll get hooked 

Now with the GPU playing a big role in browsing - where are some cool websites to play? 

For example, years ago, I remember a website that had every Atari game from the arcade days to play in your browser. I'll be damned if I can find it.

Googled around, just not seeing game play. Can anyone list some fun sites?!

THANK YOU!

MunchyWorm 

6 hours ago, vf1000ride said:

 

Well, half fixed.  I would say to see then if the game has a setting like the other folks mentioned to leave it in windowed mode instead of fullscreen. That might get the last piece of the puzzle.

 

Here's what mine looks like running on an older Logitech G19 keyboard display just for comparison to what yours is set up as.

OK, will try that, last piece of the puzzle! Your setup looks fantastic, nicely done.

Not any idea here.... but the creators of this excellent tool, would it take a miracle to update it to maybe have an option for in-game overlay, full screen?
 

I'm assuming its been mentioned or thought of, just found it kinda odd that such an excellent piece of software like this doesn't have that last little golden nugget.

Cheers!!

25 minutes ago, vf1000ride said:

I run my sensor panel on the display on my keyboard so I'm not sure if this will help but did you try setting the option in the photo below.  I think Jay mentioned in his video this was what he used to get it running on top of the benchmark screen.  I just don't know if this would work if you run a game in fullscreen vs windowed.

 

Enabled it. Panel stays on top of all programs. But not in game, damn.

28 minutes ago, Caroline said:

Do you really need the speedometer thingies or just the values? if you only need the values then it should work with RTSS.

 

I only use it to benchmark in-game for a while then close everything as I find it distracting.

The gauges are just temps in Fahrenheit. Wanted them to see when throttling starts if ever. Throttling begins roughly at 149f for this CPU, set the offset in the config.

155f for GPU throttling. Basically 150ish for both 

4 minutes ago, vf1000ride said:

I run my sensor panel on the display on my keyboard so I'm not sure if this will help but did you try setting the option in the photo below.  I think Jay mentioned in his video this was what he used to get it running on top of the benchmark screen.  I just don't know if this would work if you run a game in fullscreen vs windowed.

Havent tried that! Will try now and get back. Did find it kinda strange the moderator at AIDA's forum said you can't.