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Markski

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    La Plata, Argentina

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  1. PCIe risers should not have issues with storage adapter cards. If it's going to be a NAS, do you really need to do it through risers, though?
  2. That looks like a very good choice for the price, if you can really get it for $365 as listed
  3. Anydesk would be my recommendation. Been daily driving it for a few months and it has never failed me once. Just connect to the machine and everything works, quite smoothly too. I used TeamViewer in the past but encountered a few instances of the host software failing to take in a connection, which I could never pin down why.
  4. ACPI_BIOS_ERROR, as the name implies, means Windows is not happy regarding the state of the BIOS (Specifically regarding ACPI, a power management feature) - I can only guess the bios has become corrupt somehow, but I cannot imagine why. You have to obtain a new BIOS. However I am not sure how you would do that considering you can't access it. The MSDN documentation on this error suggests disabling ACPI mode while installing Windows, but again, I'm not sure that'd be any good in this case. I think you might need a new motherboard unless there is a physical way to replace it's BIOS. You might also follow the advice from the post above of cleaning and re-seating everything just to be sure. I don't know if it'd help, but it certainly wouldn't hurt.
  5. Hello everyone. Today I realized something bizarre, if I have an ethernet cable plugged into my laptop from my router while the charger isn't plugged, I will feel a small static tickle when I touch the aluminum top. However, this doesn't happen when the charger is plugged in. I assume the ethernet cable is bringing some sort of charge that only gets grounded when the charger is plugged in. How could this be happening? Could this be dangerous? It is worth noting this is a standard-as-it-comes tp-link internet router with no PoE (in fact, after checking, the sockets in the router are completely missing the pins 1, 2, 4 and 5, which as far as I understand would be the ones carrying PoE if that were the case).
  6. Hello everyone; For a while I have wanted to make a quick, lightweight program that allows changing hidden/obscure Windows settings without having to go into the registry. While software like this certainly already exists, it's always bloaty, needs to be installed for some reason and is just generally a bit too much for what it has to do. WTTk is very light, doesn't need to be installed, and most important of all, it is open source. Site w/ download: https://markski.ar/wttk Source Code: https://github.com/markski1/WinTweakTool VirusTotal analysis - Cylance seems to dislike it, but every other AV agrees that the file is clean (and you can always build it yourself if you find this sussy) To the moderation: For what I understood of the rules, self-promotion rules are only against publisizing your own content, which I don't think this does. Since tools like WhyNotWin11 have proliferated through this forum in the past, I assume this post is allowed. If that is not the case, I apologize. Please let me know of any suggestions or bugs you encounter
  7. Hello. I have an Asus GL553VD, which has 12gb of ram in a 8x4 configuration. They're both 2400MHz, one is branded Hynix, and the other Samsung. Attached is a screenshot with a Speccy overview of these modules. It is my intention to replace the 4gb stick with an 8gb stick from Kingston. Specifically a "Kingston KVR26S19S6/8", which is branded "ValueRAM", and rated for 2666Mhz. I have made this choice because after browsing all over in websites for my country (Argentina) all the listings for 2400MHz ram are grossly overpriced, far higher than the 2666Mhz sticks, for some reason. I have two questions. Is there any specific downside to using ValueRAM branded memory? The name implies it's built with being cheap in mind, but I have seen nothing terrible in it's specs, at least that I could notice. Will I have dual channel support with this configuration? The seller tells me the memory will run at 2400MHz like my other stick, which makes sense, but he says he isn't sure dual channel will work. Thanks beforehand for your time.
  8. So, this was fixed by using the Power mode slider when left clicking the battery Icon in windows 10 and setting it at the middle. The fact this secondary slider exists is astonishing, and the fact it overrides the main energy settings in the control panel is beyond astonishing! Anyways, I guess this is now solved.
  9. I can only imagine lowering the frequency would also achieve this to some extent, but I see what you mean. I've set it down to 5% and it still doesn't go below base, I'm out of ideas but I'll keep trying I guess
  10. It is set to balanced already, and all of the CPU directives in the settings are set to the same for plugged in and on battery in the advanced energy settings. My laptop doesn't have any "Power saver" mode either.
  11. So, I have noticed that my laptop will both run cooler AND quieter while running on battery alone, while performance is very much the same, even on games. I've realized this happens because the CPU will vary it's clock speed as low as 0.9Ghz at times, and only go up a bit when necesary. When it's plugged in, it'll always run at the base speed of 2.8Ghz, even if cpu usage is near zero, causing the temps to go up anyways and the fans to ramp up. For example, playing WOW Classic on battery caused the CPU to run at 65°c as the CPU clock was staying within 1.1 and 1.4Ghz, fans very quiet too. Once I plugged it in, that went up closer to 75°c, with the CPU running always at 2.8Ghz as stated above, and the fans ramping up a fair bit. In both cases the game ran capped at 60fps with exactly the same graphic settings. How can I allow the computer to vary the CPU clock while plugged in, just like it does while on battery? So far I've tried playing around with Energy settings, set the minimum processor speed to 5% just like it was already set on "On battery", didn't change anything. Not that it matters, but just in case, this is an Asus ROG GL553VD
  12. Hello, I have an Asus ROG GL553VD gaming laptop with hybrid graphics (it switches between either Intel igpu or dedicated graphics depending on the workload.) it is my understanding that the dedicated gpu goes to sleep when being unused, but today in MSI Afterburner I noticed the following. On the left side of the graphs we can see when I was playing a game, that is perfectly normal. On the right side however after I was done playing the game and watching youtube, you can see the gpu constantly toggling on and off. My guess is that there's an application asking for gpu time every that lapse of time and getting the dedi graphics for some reason. Is this a problem that could affect the length of my gpu's life? If so, how can I solve this? EDIT: Before someone asks, it's not firefox. According to task manager, Firefox is using GPU 0 (the Intel one), nothing is using GPU 1 as far as I can see
  13. I will be very happy if I can get at least 3 years out of this machine. Does that sound feasible for this machine?
  14. Hello, I recently decided to buy a gaming laptop as I couldn't really justify spending enough cash in computers to have a laptop and a proper PC separately. I ended up buying an Asus ROG GL553VD, apparently a "budget" laptop, and while I'm happy with it so far I have two questions about it. The first question is about temperatures. What are the normal operating temperatures for a gaming laptop of this kind? Playing TES Skyrim at 1080p max I've found the CPU to normally heat up at 75 or even 80°c in some parts of the map, despite it being a relatively old game. The same happens with CS:GO with the frame limiter at 120fps, despite CS:GO also being relatively old. Are these temperatures normal for a gaming laptop? They seemed a bit too high to me. Would it be wise to limit the framerate to 60 to have lower temperatures? I'd like this computer to last me as long as it can. As for the second question, what are the dangers of updating the BIOS? Will this mess with my warranty? I've seen there's a new 3.0.8 bios available for the GL553VD, the one I have has 3.0.6. Would it even be worth the risk upgrading it? I have a version with a i7-7700HQ, GTX 1050 and 12gb of ram, no ssd, only a 1tb HGST hdd. I was unable to find this exact configuration on any online review, so it might be a regional version only sold in south america. Thanks for your help beforehand.
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