lightblind

First and foremost, thank you for opening this post. My machine has been functional without many bugs for over 3 years without fail until now. Here is the problem which all started because a fan stopped working on my 2080ti and had to be warranty replaced somewhere between June and July '22. Since 12/12/2022, I have updated all drivers to the latest versions for everything be it the Fan controller, AMD drivers, Nvidia drivers, BIOS, Armoury Crate, Corsair iCue, L-Connect3, and all software on the machine. I also purchased and replaced the power supply (Again) on 12/16/2022 to EVGA 1300 GT (1300 Watts) from the EVGA 1300 G+ (1300 Watts) and I’m still having the same problem. At this point between the warranty exchanges and new purchases, I almost have enough parts to build a new PC. I need this fixed I'm 75% blind and this machine is my only means of working since I use software for magnifying everything. At this point in my journey: Current configuration: CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3950X Motherboard – ASUS ROG Crosshair VIII Hero (WI-FI) Memory - G.Skill Trident Z neo F4-3600C16Q-64GTZNC DDR4-3600 CL16-19-19-39 1.35V 64GB (4x16GB) GPU: ASUS ROG-STRIX-RTX3090-O24G-WHITE CPU Cooler: ASUS ROG RYUJIN II 360 Power Supply: EVGA Supernova 1300 GT Case Fans: Lian Li SL120 Infinity (x9) Add-In: Asus TPM-M R2.0 14-1 Pin TPM Module NVMe: x2 Samsung 980 PRO SSD 2TB NVMe Gen 4 M.2 SSD: x3 Samsung 870 EVO 2TB 2.5 Inch SATA III Keyboard/Mouse/Headset: Corsair K95 RGB Platinum XT Mechanical Gaming Keyboard Corsair Dark Core RGB Pro SE, Wireless FPS/MOBA Gaming Mouse Corsair VIRTUOSO RGB WIRELESS XT High-Fidelity Gaming Headset Issue: For approximately 6 months my PC will hard stop for seemingly no reason at very random times without any similarities to previous crashes. Sometimes it will crash while playing a game, other times I could be in the middle of a VMWare work session, looking at an MS Word document, or even just leaving the computer completely idle with all work processes closed overnight without anything being touched. Additionally, prior to replacing motherboard, I would also periodically get a boot error indicating BIOS corruption and needing to restore using “USB Flashback”. When this occurs: The monitor display either freezes to the current image or goes black/blank. There is no change in QCODE. Typical boot from a cold state QCODE is either CPU temp or AA, which is normal. The DRAM LED (amber color) comes on. At this point, there is no function from the motherboard. Case power button whether held for up to a minute or not. The case reset button will not work. Onboard “Start” and “Reset/AUX” keys do not function. All case fans still rotate and LEDs stay on as well as the GPU stays lit. The only way to get back to a working state is to: Toggle the power switch on the PSU Use the onboard “SAFE _BOOT” or “RETRY_BUTTON” from the motherboard. My Troubleshooting Process: Ran both Memtest86 and Windows Memory Diagnostics (both failed with errors in one way or another.) Set UEFI back to defaults and retested with same results. Swapped memory: Original: G.Skill Trident Z neo F4-3600C16D-32GTZNC DDR4-3600 CL16-19-19-39 1.35V 32GB (2x16GB) **2 kits 4 sticks total New replacement: G.Skill Trident Z neo F4-3600C16Q-64GTZNC DDR4-3600 CL16-19-19-39 1.35V 64GB (4x16GB) Tested new memory and passed in default and D.O.C.P. configuration. (left in D.O.C.P.) Still having same original issue for about a week. Swapped GPU: Original: ROG-STRIX-RTX2080TI-O11G-GAMING **RMA swap to TUF-RTX3080TI-O12G-GAMING 1ST replacement: TUF-RTX3080TI-O12G-GAMING 2nd replacement: ROG-STRIX-RTX3080TI-O12G-GAMING *New purchase 3nd replacement: ROG-STRIX-RTX3090-O24G-WHITE *New purchase 4th MSI Gaming 1660 Super *New purchase Used each GPU for about 2-3 weeks before swapping to the next to no avail. The current GPU in use is the 3090. Rolled back UEFI BIOS to Version 2204 (2020/08/14) then back forward to Version 4201 (2022/04/29).stepping up one BIOS revision at a time. Swapped PSU Original: SilverStone Technology 800W SFX-L, 80 Plus Titanium New: EVGA Supernova 1300 G+ Still same issues Nuked Windows 10 Pro and removed all NVMe/SSD drives except for the boot NVMe drive. Reinstalled Windows 10 PRO (fully activated retail copy). Reinstalled and all required software./ drivers No change system is still crashing to Amber DRAM light. Swapped CPU Cooler: Original: Lian Li GA-240A Galahad AIO 240 New: ASUS ROG RYUJIN II 360 There are no extension cables being used inside or outside of the computer chassis other than a surge protector. The system still continues to randomly hard stop. Replaced the motherboard via RMA to the same product on 11/29/2022. Since 12/12/2022, I have updated all drivers to the latest versions for everything be it Fan controller, AMD drivers, Nvidia drivers, BIOS, Armoury Crate, Corsair iCue, and all software on the machine. I also purchased and replaced the power supply (Again) 12/16/2022 to EVGA 1300 GT (1300 Watts) from the EVGA 1300 G+ (1300 Watts). The most recent change made to single out the issues as of 12/22/22 was to reinstall Windows a 3rd time and each software and drivers one-by-one. Everything is now working flawlessly with everything reinstalling EXCEPT iCue. I have tested both versions of iCue (v4.31.168 and v3.38.88 (For Legacy Devices)) and the same for L-Connect3 (Current version: v1.5.18 Posted: 12/20/2022 and "For UNI FAN SL-INF users, please keep using" v1.3.16.) Just to clarify I do not currently have iCue installed period and L-Connect3 v1.3.16 is installed. All that having been said I have not ever had issues with iCue and ASUS Aura working together and I have not had issues with L-Connect3 and ASUS Aura working together. It seems though that iCue and L-Connect3 with or without ASUS Aura consistently conflict. If not for a literal life need (75% blind) I wouldn't need or care if iCue was ever installed but unfortunately I need it to configure the macro keys on the K95 keyboard (which is the most important regardless of RGB) since that's first why I bought the keyboard and the macros are used to facilitate the magnifier multi-key functions. Additionally, since the Lian-Li fans are the SL-INF 3=packs I have to have the controller due to proprietary fan connections rather than direct to motherboard cables. Without L-Connect3 I can't control the fans even by passthrough. I really need someone's help to figure this out. Thank you so so much in advance for any help. PS: There are no BSOD logs due to being a hard stop. I do have crash dump reports from GPU-z which is packaged into the L-Connect3 software and is used by L-Connect3 to monitor the system for fan control.

Thank you again for all the advise here. I'm for sure going unraid at this point to add in all drives I can. I'm trying this in a little different direction though to have 2 seperate data stores so that media and software are seperate from the VMs. All for this is pretty much personal use and the VMs are for tinkering with not for daily utility. If I lose the software on the other hand it could be catastrophic. I have everything (software) backed up offline and sealed in water/fire proof protection but also need it network accessible for daily use. since the SSDs are mostly 2TB each and are faster Ths will be the media/software store and the HDDs will be the VMs since they aren't used often and will be lower impact on rewrites. Each time a VM is used it is pulled and used directly on a machine updated as needed and then added back to the data store with updates or as a new version. I'll keep the i3 9100 and Z390 with probably all 32gb of memory (I don't have any other purpose for it right now). So I should go GTX 710 over 7800 GT? I hear you on the 710 should be fine but since I'll probably just use a remote machine I won't exactly have a display connected to the NAS anyway.

I really hope to get one of these, it's not that I don't have GPUs already but that I need something a little stonger than what I have on hand. Yes I'm a gamer and NOT by any stretch am I a miner or a scalper, but I'm also literally and doctor verifiably 75% blind. Because of this I don't game much especially shooters, what i really need it for is my software used to see my computer screen which is extremely GPU and Memory intensive. I'd trade 3 lower cards just to get a 30 or 6000 series card.

Aslo I want to say thank you for the replies, I really appricate it. I work in IT but I'm more of a PC/laptop person and my primary job is mostly related to VMs. I don't do much at all relating to the server hardware, storage or otherwise.

So the i3 9100 is not the "F" model so no iGPU unfortunately, and I sold my last AMD 2400G. That said which of the GPUs would be best here since I know I don't really need much graphics power. Most SSDs and HDDs are 2TB each with 3 8TB drives. None are raid configured at the moment and I was thinking either unraid or true/free NAS for OS and I plan to run the OS off a 500GB M.2 (smallest I have out of 4). I know the Z390 is really overkill here so what would be a good/greaat lower end option B360/365, H10/H70, I will need to have at least 20 TB of storage total. I have 10 HD/SD bays at my disposal on the View 71 and still enough room for 12 fans.

Budget (including currency): $1000 (USD) Country: USA Used for: Media, Software, Document, and possible VM Storage Details: I have a few left over parts that I have had from previous pc builds I've completed for others in the recent past. I don't do it often but I really enjoy just building computers for the heck of it. Anway I have the following just laying around doing nothing and I think it's time I build a NAS for storing things online and offline. Currently I have: Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Pro WiFi About 30 TB cobined mix of M.2 and SATA SSDs, and HDDs Thermaltake Toughpower Grand 850w RGB Intel i3 9100 32gb Corsair Vengence mem TOO MANY Noctua 120mm fans Thermaltake View 51 and View 71 cases NVidia GeForce 7800 GT OC NVidia GeForce GTX 710 NVidia GeForce GTX 1060 NVidia GeForce GTX 1660Ti NVidia GeForce GTX 1660S Obviously some of this is overkill and some could use some serious just gotten rid of. What Hardware would be best though get get a NAS up and working. I'd rather buy new and replace something overkill or that may not be suitable.

In case you think a need for a bit more performance is needed due to the amount of multitasking and your budget is slightly more flexible. This would be my suggestion since the three 4K monitors will require a little more GPU power and you won't have to worry with adapters in order to connect all three to the motherboard. This build reduces RAM from 32 to 16 gb which will still be plenty and adds 2 more cores to the CPU and adds a GPU. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/n6Djf9 CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Best Buy) Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-M2 MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.98 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg) Storage: PNY CS900 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.99 @ Best Buy) Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 1650 SUPER 4 GB TUF Gaming OC Video Card ($169.99 @ B&H) Total: $587.94 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-31 22:37 EDT-0400 If you are looking for a full ATX Motherboard instead of micro you can go with any of these for $50 more on the cost. Gigabyte B450 AORUS ELITE ASRock B450 Steel Legend Asus TUF B450-PLUS GAMING ASRock B550 Pro4 MSI B550-A PRO

I added a PSU, and Case for something to think about if needed otherwise obviously just omit it. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8yXRZf CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3400G 3.7 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($139.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-M2 MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.98 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory ($97.99 @ Newegg) Storage: PNY CS900 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Antec NeoECO Gold ZEN 500 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($69.99 @ Newegg) Total: $569.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-31 22:14 EDT-0400 ----------------------------------------------------------------- Omitted PSU and Case PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7NGJjp CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3400G 3.7 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($139.99 @ B&H) Motherboard: MSI B450M PRO-M2 MAX Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($74.98 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Aegis 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 CL16 Memory ($97.99 @ Newegg) Storage: PNY CS900 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($87.99 @ Best Buy) Total: $400.95 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-08-31 22:18 EDT-0400

All of the cases listed here are fantastic options. I'm a huge fan of the Meshify C. My current favorite though I would have to say is my current case. The newest of the ThermalTTake View series being the View 51. This chassis has plenty of room for as many fans as you want and/or full open loop custom water cooling. It's tempered glass on 3 sides with plenty of air gaps and vent areas. The entire back is one huge open vent with mesh filters. Even in TX heat (already hit 32 C (90 F)+ a few times ambient) this system stays nice and cool at around 40 C with a max of 65 under full load having just an AIO and plenty of positive pressure. Plus the aesthetics are great too. All of the cases listed here are fantastic options. I'm a huge fan of the Meshify C. My current favorite though I would have to say is my current case. The newest of the ThermalTTake View series being the View 51. This chassis has plenty of room for as many fans as you want and/or full open loop custom water cooling. It's tempered glass on 3 sides with plenty of air gaps and vent areas. The entire back is one huge open vent with mesh filters. Even in TX heat (already hit 32 C (90 F)+ a few times ambient) this system stays nice and cool at around 40 C with a max of 65 under full load having just an AIO and plenty of positive pressure. Plus the aesthetics are great too. The case runs about $180-215 on Amazon. I have this setup with 2x200mm in front and 3x120 bottom intake 2x200 top and 4x120 back and side exhaust. Side exhaust pulls air direct from intake for the AIO radiator while the top and back exhaust pull air over the mobo and GPU from the bottom and front overflow. All core full load peak is about 65-75C max. AMD 3950X ASUS Strix 2080 Ti OC ASUS Crosshair VIII WiFi X570 64 GB 3600 MHz Trident Z Neo CL16 4x16

I concur with Stahlmann and would add if you are looking for a little extra boost, even if marginal, you may think about going with G.Skill Trident Z Neo 128 GB (4 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bxNgXL/gskill-trident-z-neo-128-gb-4-x-32-gb-ddr4-3600-memory-f4-3600c18q-128gtzn). The speed is better being that Ryzen in general works best with 3600 MHz memory the compromise is the timings are not as tight which is the case with most sticks over 16 GB. I would also suggest if you want a slightly more robust mobo you can go with the ASUS Crosshair Hero VIII there are 2 variants one with WiFi (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GcfFf7/asus-rog-crosshair-viii-hero-wi-fi-atx-am4-motherboard-rog-crosshair-viii-hero-wi-fi) and one without (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/L23mP6/asus-rog-crosshair-viii-hero-atx-am4-motherboard-rog-crosshair-viii-hero) each are around $350 more or less depending on variant. All 3 boards are excellent choices depending on your preference of hardware and bios features. You may also choose to buy your memory in 2x32 instead of 4x32 packaging. 4x packages are all binned together and will have the best working order but your 3950x uses dual channel memory so having 2 sets of 2x32 will not affect performance, will be easier to find, and could possibly be cheaper. If you choose to look at other memory options based on the information here just be sure to look at the Qualified Vendor List for the mobo to ensure you get something that is tested to work best.

I'm not sure of the connection hub on the ML fans but the LL fan hub does not connect to the RGB header at all you will use the USB 2.0 Header instead. So this will leave your RGB headers free to use with other AURA Sync compatible fans. I'm not sure of the hardware you plan to use but remember also that fans will draw power from the PSU and if you plan to use an AIO, you may want to up the PSU to at least 600w just to be safe. Most systems I build I don't go below 650w just for the sake of head room for smaller builds.

I use all ThermalTake fans, it's the same concept as they actually require their own controller to work. I have a ThermalTake View 71 RGB case as well with 12 fans in total. Three of them are non-RGB and to used for aesthetics and plugged directly into MoBo 4-pin Fan heads. As for the other 9 Fans they are all Standard RGB fans (Thermaltake Riing Plus 12 RGB TT Premium Edition and Thermaltake Riing Plus 14 RGB TT Premium Edition) I have two different controllers that I use for them but again TT requires use of their controllers so I have the standard basic USB-header RGB 5-port controller being used for six RGB Light Strips. The rest are on a 9-port 3-pin ARGB controller I purchased separately from TT. My MoBo is the Crosshair VIII (WiFi) X570. I additionally have RGB strips and an ARGB DeepCool Castle 360EX AIO the case which are connected directly the 4-pin RGB headers and 3-pin ARGB headers respectively on the board. The RGB headers are 4-Pin 12v connectors and the ARGB headers are 3-pin 5v connectors so it will heavily depend on your controller being used. If you are directly chaining Fans or RGB strips I personally wouldn't go above 3 in a single chain so as to not over stress the header which may damage it. One reason I chose the ThermalTake fans was due to the controller function on their USB-header controllers you can chain up to 5 controllers together at 5 devices per controller which is doable specifically because of the power connection directly to the PSU and the USB header being used only to connect the RGB to the TT lighting software. For the 9-port ARGB controller the same applies but the controller connects to the PSU for power and the ARGB controller for the ASUS AURA Sync, here the ARGB header is only being used for software control not power to the devices. Finally my RGB strips are being powered and software driven by the RGB 4-pin MoBo header so I only have one strips per header and these as well are controlled by the ASUS AURA Sync. Now that the configuration stuff is out of the way, on to functionality. Your RGB/ARGB devices (manufacturer) will determine how the lighting will function. As stated above for my config I'm using both the ThermalTake software and the AURA Sync Software. The ThermalTake software is standalone and controls the USB-Header controller thus giving me ARGB functionality of the those connections. As for the RGB/ARGB headers on the MoBo. You can use the AURA Creator software to orchestrate different effects for ARGB header connected devices giving you more control over each section of the devices (See attached picture for example). The RGB header does not give you this ability you can control the color of the RGB lighting for the whole header/device but not for individual sections of a given devices. (Again reference my attached picture.) The RAM, AIO Cooler, and fans are all ARGB controlled, the Strips along the outside edge are TT Software controlled, the inside strips around the MoBo are RGB header controlled. You can't tell from the picture very well but the lighting on the ARGB header changes/flickers, the RGB strips on the inside are solid and do not change unless the whole strip changes as one unit, and the TT Software strips act as ARGB based on the software and USB Controller. Sorry I know this was a long explanation but I hope I've covered it all. As a side note be aware there are also RGB fans and strips out there that are only controlled by their supplied controller and use toggle switches on the controller itself to control the light effects like the original ThermalTake Riing fans which cannot be software controlled. Let me know if you have any other questions. 20191226_221203.mp4

I would tend to agree with all of these comments regarding other boards personally I'm not a fan of the GODLIKE board in general. It you decide to stay that course though it seems that on the MSI compatibility list Corsair is where you want to look. Vendor Model SPD Speed RAM Speed Supported Speed Chipset Voltage Sided Size 1 | 2 | 4 DIMM Corsair CMK64GX4M2C3200C16 ver5.49 2133MHz 3200MHz 3200 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.35v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 ver5.49 2133MHz 3200MHz 3200 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.35v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Here is the whole list for suggested 32GB RAM but it looks like 4 DIMMs will be stuck at 2666MHz If I'm reading it right. Vendor Model SPD Speed RAM Speed Supported Speed Chipset Voltage Sided Size 1 | 2 | 4 DIMM Patriot PSD44G213381 2133MHz 2133MHz 2133 MHz Patriot 1521J80303 1.2V SINGLE 4GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMK64GX4M2D3600C18 ver5.49 2133MHz 3600MHz 3600 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.35v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK64GX4M2C3200C16 ver5.49 2133MHz 3200MHz 3200 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.35v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK64GX4M2E3200C16 ver5.49 2133MHz 3200MHz 3200 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.35v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK32GX4M1D3000C16 ver3.44 2133MHz 3000MHz 3000 MHz Spectek E 1.35v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK64GX4M2C3000C15 ver5.49 2133MHz 3000MHz 3000 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.35 DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK64GX4M2D3000C16 ver3.40 2133MHz 3000MHz 3000 MHz Spectek Z22A 1.35v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK64GX4M2D3000C16 ver3.44 2133MHz 3000MHz 3000 MHz Spectek E 1.35v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Asgard VMA44UI-MEC1U2AW2 2400MHz 3000MHz 3000 MHz Spectek 1.35v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK128GX4M4A2666C16 ver3.44 2133MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz Spectek E 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMK128GX4M4A2666C16 ver5.49 2133MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMK256GX4M8A2666C16 ver3.44 2133MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz Spectek E 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMK256GX4M8A2666C16 ver5.49 2133MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMK64GX4M2A2666C16 ver3.40 2133MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz Spectek Z22A 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK64GX4M2A2666C16 ver3.44 2133MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz Spectek E 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMK64GX4M2A2666C16 ver5.49 2133MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMW128GX4M4A2666C16 ver5.49 2133MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz SK hynix MFR 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Crucial CT32G4DFD8266.16FB1 2666MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz Micron B 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMV32GX4M1A2666C18 2666MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz Spectek PP038-093TP 1.2V DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Team TED432G2666C19BK 2666MHz 2666MHz 2666 MHz Team T4D20488KT-266 1.2V DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMK128GX4M4A2400C16 ver3.44 2400MHz 2400MHz 2400 MHz Spectek E 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMK256GX4M8A2400C16 ver3.44 2400MHz 2400MHz 2400 MHz Spectek E 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √ Corsair CMK64GX4M2A2400C16 ver3.40 2400MHz 2400MHz 2400 MHz Spectek Z22A 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Corsair CMK64GX4M2A2400C16 ver3.44 2400MHz 2400MHz 2400 MHz Spectek E 1.2v DUAL 32GB √ | √ | Team TED432G2400C16BK 2400MHz 2400MHz 2400 MHz Team T4D20488KT-24 1.2V DUAL 32GB √ | √ | √

DEEPCOOL FH-10 Integrated Fan Hub, Powering up to 10 Fans (3-pin Non-PWM or 4-pin PWM), Occupying only One 4-pin Motherboard Header 4.5 out of 5 stars 135 $14.99$14.99 https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-FH-10-Integrated-Occupying-Motherboard/dp/B077YHLDSP/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=deepcool+rgb+controller&qid=1575554326&sr=8-4

I bought mine on eBay but you can also order direct from TT ThermalTake: https://www.ttpremium.com/product/pacific-lumi-plus-led-strip-3-pack/ eBay search link: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Pacific+Lumi+Plus+LED+Strip&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_odkw=lumia&_osacat=0 Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Accessories-xx1432-CL-23-o014/dp/B07B4F3BF8/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Pacific+Lumi+Plus+LED+Strip&qid=1574539329&refinements=p_89%3AThermaltake&rnid=2528832011&sr=8-3 The strips are both magnetic and self adhesive if the case or whatever isn't metal you can peel the backing. LED Strip Dimension: 30cm – 12 LEDs When you buy the fans and/or strips they include a 5-port controller that you can chain one to another. If you do it this way you save the extra $30 by not buying the 9-port controller however this configuration requires you to use one of the 9-PIN USB headers on you board, a molex connector, and the TT software for controlling the LEDs instead of using the ARGB and AURA software. Take a look at the TT link above you'll get all the info you need from there on that. I know it's all rather expensive but for me it was a no-brainer after having chained all the 5-port controllers and having to manage putting all that in the back of the case. When I moved to the new board and picked up the 9-port I now have 2 controllers not 4. Each 5-port controller is about 1 1/2 x 3 x 1/2 inches in size. So if you only plan to get the strips and do something else for fans that's cool but if you want an all-in-one package it's worth considering.