Kid.Lazer

I don't think I understand your thought process here. You're going to install Windows 11 fresh, then install all the programs you want, but all in a VM? And then try to image that to a drive later? Why not just install on bare metal to begin with and be done with it? You're adding a lot of extra steps for no reason. Not trying to be a smartass here, but have you tried writing them down on a piece of paper? Surely you know what programs you use regularly. And if you can't remember, maybe you never use it and shouldn't bloat your computer with it anymore.

I'm a cheapskate and don't need the latest/greatest speeds. I 100% would take the 100 down/up plan to save $10 every month in perpetuity. My Comcast internet plan was originally 15 down, 2 up. Over the years, the speed has crept up and now I'm at 150/20. It is plenty fast for my usage.

If you can find one of these devices (discontinued since last year, so probably ebay and the like) it basically tricks your PC into displaying one double-wide screen, then splits it off into 2 separate monitors. The downside being that windows snap features will not respect the screen split.

Have you ever used Windows? It doesn't have to be "incompatible" for them to break things. In all seriousness though, I assume the system is currently on Windows 10 Home (correct me if I'm wrong). If so, there should be no issues with the key carrying over. I just upgraded my mothers laptop last week (Lenovo laptop with R5 2500u), and it didn't care. Getting more life out of a system for free instead of spending money is always a win for everybody (except the manufacturers). And it's really not complicated. You simply: - Download the official ISO from Microsoft. - Download this tool from github. - Run the batch file to "install" it. (it just adds a right-click context send-to entry). - Right-click your new ISO, then under "send-to" click "Quick_11_iso_esd_win_TPM_toggle" to patch the ISO. You now a have a permanently bypassed copy of Windows 11 you can install anywhere! (Just run the batch file again to remove the send-to entry, then it can be deleted.)

I would be concerned about the BIOS being heavily locked down, thus making any upgraded CPU non-functional. Though if you have the extra hardware, wouldn't hurt to try anyway. Does she need a new CPU for more performance, or is this simply to make it "Windows 11 compatible?" If it's the latter, just use one of the many workarounds (Rufus, TPM bypass) to install Windows 11 anyways. That system should work fine. (And this is coming from a guy that has updated a dozen AMD A8-7600 systems which are now a decade old).

You act like I bought both the console and the game last week. I have owned both of them since launch. (as a side note, my 5 and 7 year-old kids like the Wii U console and games better than the Switch). But none of that changes the fact that the core gameplay is based on online connectivity, which is now gone. I'm simply "voting with my wallet" by not buying the newer one. Will they care about one lost sale? Certainly not, but that's my choice. I agree, except it wasn't obsolete, and there was still an active player base. Plus, do you really think Nintendo cares how many active players there were? Mark my words, the same thing will happen to Mario Maker 2, regardless of how much more successful the console or game is.

Neither. That's a country mile!

Megaman X on SNES by a mile!

I mean, that's kinda the whole point though.

I have both a switch and a Wii U, and only ever had the original Mario Maker. I kind of wanted to get Mario Maker 2, but after crap like this, I don't want to give them more money for a game that will become worthless.

Yep. And in my wife's car the following items no longer work due to garbage faulty cabling: Lane-assist Blind-spot monitoring Stabili-track DVD player Passenger Air Bag 120v outlet Stop acting like "the future of electronics" is fool-proof. If I wanted to fix all this, I would need to buy new wiring harnesses and parts AND THEN have to spend even more to have a dealership reprogram all the stupid OEM-locked-down parts. More electronics (at least in this context) = more bad.

I haven't used Ryzen Master in a long time, but my experience is that it has always been very finicky. Having the correct version of both the program itself and chipset drivers is of utmost importance.

Not trying to derail your build thread, BUT... If you want to upgrade to Windows 11 (which sounds like the sole goal here) without spending any money, it's fairly easy to do. You can modify the installation ISO with a script or RUFUS to bypass those hardware checks. (I usually use the official ISO then modify it with this tool). I have done it on dozens of "unsupported" systems with no ill effect.

According to Rtings, the best 65" TV you can get at the ~$400 mark is Roku 65R4A5R. The model# at Costco may be slightly different (as they like to do to discourage price matching) so the one you saw might be the same model. Just double-check that.

Both of the tubes and radiator should be getting as warm as the coolant circulates through the system. If the radiator never gets warm, your pump is NOT working. One tube will normally be warmer than the other due to heat losses in the radiator (normal), but it should have some heat to it.