frankr2994

Setting up a sim rig for someone and going to show them a test in VR with my quest 2. Using a i7-12700k and a rtx3080 with win11. Started creeping up on settings until the GPU was more or less steadily loaded at 70 percent. About every 2 minutes the copy part of the GPU would go from 0 percent to 100 percent just for a second. Would show an immediate frame drop and audio stutter in game play. Striking out on my own research. Anyone have any insight here?

I only have 1 cat6 line in my house. Verizon installed my service to the basement and then ran a line upstairs to my living room. My PC and anything I'm working on has wifi and an Ethernet port. When my office was upstairs wifi worked. Didn't downstairs. So ya I kinda expected wifi issues but just needed Ethernet ports in the basement more than anything. Eventually I'll get the rest of the pieces to build my pfs sense pc and I'll have a switch in the basement and run cat 6a everywhere. That keeps getting pushed further down the list of projects I have to do around the house.

Ok I've started alot of confusion so I'll apologize for that. I'm not expecting outstanding wifi signal everywhere. When I say devices are dropping it's not due to signal. When this happens I can stand right next to the router and have no internet with very high signal. Current config right now is FiOS ONT to Asus router. Router is broadcasting 5ghz only. Ethernet connection to Linksys router. DHCP turned off. Static IP set to 192.168.1.2 and gateway set to 192.168.1.1(Asus router) Linksys only broadcasting 2.4ghz. 2.4 and 5ghz bands are different ssid. When setup with Asus router only broadcasting both 2.4 and 5ghz everything will connect,work and get decent speed. Only last for about 20 minutes then everything using 2.4ghz loses internet. Signal strength stays high. And again I use a separate ssid. When I notice a tv is offline I can walk right up to the router and connect with my phone. My phone will show me that (from my phone) tx 144mbps and rx 1 or 2 Mbps. So the 2.4ghz radio basically is only receiving and no longer transmitting. 5ghz radio continues to work fine throughout the house. In the second post it was recommended that I connect devices one at a time to find a problem. I think that may be the answer. Right now my Linksys router is broadcasting the 2.4ghz band.....stable. TV's won't drop out. If I stress it by running an extended connection test off of my phone I can make it do the same thing and drop out. This was proven also using only my Linksys router connected to the FiOS ONT. Initially I could feel the heat off the Asus router and it's very safe to assume my Linksys is filled with dust so I thought heat. I "fixed" that. No change. Both routers have been completely reset and the firmware was changed on the Asus. No change. So unless I get another idea I'll change the ssid sometime and connect devices back to it one at a time while monitoring the network from my phone. Side note even though it's not worth anything. The range on that Asus router kicks the crap out of the Linksys. This was all supposed to be a quick little purchase so I could have Ethernet ports downstairs. I probably should have never turned the wifi radio on with the Asus and just continued using the Linksys as an AP and never monitored any speeds or anything. I got excited when I first hooked it up and my son's PC upstairs was pulling 500mbps down and my roku tvs were over 100. Never had those speeds before over wifi.

Ok well you may be right on a specific device causing the issue. Leaving my Linksys router hooked up the way it's always been seemed to work. If I load tested it then the wifi failed but the TV's and such stay connected. I thought my Asus router may have been getting hot. Because I am who I am I tore it down and the thermal pads were shot. So all new thermal pads, added 2 5v fans to the inside and installed Merlin firmware on it. Testing it with the only device being my phone I loaded it for about an hour without a drop. Configured everything to switch it over as the main router and swapped it without the wifi dropping in the house for more than a minute. Fast forward 20 minutes the 2.4ghz band dropped completely. All devices showed strong signal with no internet connection. So for now I turned off the 2.4 radio on the Asus and set my Linksys router up to provide just 2.4ghz wifi on the same network. It's working fine. I'm going to have to force the wife and kids to play a board game for a few hours some night and try and figure out what device is actually giving me grief. The three things I have here are Linksys wrt3200acm, Asus rt-ac88u and an Asus rp-ac68u. So all I know is that my modded Asus rt-ac88u worked fine for at least an hour with 1 device being hooked up. With 19 hooked up (7 on 2.4ghz) it took about 20 minutes to drop out. But hey now everything in that router stays below 50c......if that matters lmao.

Ok so I had to move my home office to the basement my PC no longer can get wifi. My ont box is right there. So I bought a used Asus router and a repeater(package deal) off of FB today. Hooked it all up....worked better than I'd hoped....until my kid told me the tv was disconnected. My roku tvs run off the 2.4 band in the house. So I changed everything I could find settings wise. Channels, banding, power ect.. running my wifi speed test app next to the router after about 30 seconds my link speed would drop to 0. Did this no matter what settings I tried. I removed the repeater and it still persisted. So I gave up and got my Linksys router back out and hooked it up(I've owned this wrt3200acm since it was the newest thing in the market) and it does the same damn thing now. I reset it. Still does it. I moved it back to the original location in the house still does it. When either router is happy I get a 144mbps link speed and about 90mbps upload while running and extended wifi test. Test were done directly beside the router and away from it. Confirmed it's not just my phone by watching the TV's freeze up and then eventually display no internet connection. Networking isn't my strong suit but I'm not dumb with this stuff. Anyone have any idea what's going on or do I have 2 bad routers? Only thing I can say about the Linksys router is this is the second house it's been in and I never have to reboot it. I keep an eye on what channels my neighbors are on and occasionally change mine to try to reduce interference. Other than that it's been rock solid for years.

I bought a strap from Amazon that had a bank holder. I used a 20,000 mah pack. It quickly broke the quick disconnect holder off and now I have it riveted on. And yes I changed the facial interface to some foam leather. What a change that was. The 20,000 mah bank took some getting used to however it is decently balanced and feels odd without it now. I'd still probably recommend a little smaller but no less than 10,000. I can confirm that with a good USB c to USB c cable off the bank the headset will stay at 100 % battery no matter how long you play. I only charge the bank about every 3 or 4 days. I leave the one end of the cord more or less permanently plugged into the Oculus.

Ok trying to overclock my Dell workstation it's actually a c612 chipset not x99. Regardless current monitoring should be read hopefully the same way. My system throttles at my cpu TDP of 140 watts. I'd like to apply a mod similar to the GPU power mod by tricking the system into half current. I have the vrm,psu and cooling to handle it just fine. What I need is either a schematic to any x99,c610,c612 motherboard or someone that knows how current is reported on a lga2011-3 board. I have schematics for the MOSFETs and pwm controller for my vrm. They didn't help me but let me know if you think they could help and I'll attach the files. Fyi this is just for fun. If I ruin my motherboard I can get a replacement cheap.

Ok I bought my kid a q2 for Christmas. I've played in it alot too lol. So I bought an elite strap very quickly because it was unbearable to wear. It's much better but not great. The elite strap I have has an offset tension knob and a centered rigid mount battery holder that I will be using with a 20000 mah bank. I think a halo strap would be much more comfortable yet but I don't like the battery holder options. I want a rigid mount thats centered, doesn't cover the tension knob and can be removable without screwing around with the Velcro straps. The end result of what I want to do is leave a cord attached to the headset to more or less never be removed. The bank will keep the headset charged and I'll just click the bank off to charge it. I've been going through all the 3d printer pages and haven't found what I'm looking for. Maybe someone on here has some solidworks experience and a quest wants to draw something up? I've been wanting to buy a 3d printer but I'd have alot to learn as I only have basic cad experience. Here is the strap I bought for reference Oculus Quest 2 Elite Strap, Head Strap for Oculus Quest 2 Accessories Replacement with Battery Holder Bracket, Reduce Head Pressure, Compatibly Multiple Sizes Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B096LHWYD1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VDM2TD1H3R48CFRWZE27?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Onto other things. The VPN. Regardless of this helping me and trust me I understand all of your concerns and am actually going to change alot of what I do based on some options listed here. I still want a vpn. I want it at the router level and on my mobile devices when out of my home network. So what have you used? How fast is it for you and what complaints do you have about it. My original plan for a pfsense box was to buy a Dell 3020,7020,9020,t1700 all can be found cheap and have a cpu instruction set that is preferred. Nord VPN seems to be the giant. Don't know if that's the way to go though. And like I've said before I have that wrt3200acm router. Technically I can flash it and have something fairly good without spending anything. I'd rather leave the firmware stock and just use it for wifi only if possible though.

Can't answer that either way. That's one of the reasons I'm not bashing them right now. I'll try to get as much information off of them as I can as this continues. My only point to that was the asshat who stole my money new the system pretty well.

I like the idea of that very much. I did not want to use a web based password manager I was thinking more of like a password protected thumb drive. I like your idea much more

I found this looking at my online bank account. We don't look at it daily. My mistake there. Funds were stolen a week prior. I had to call the bank. I was transferred to the wire department which I was told would be able to find something out. They transferred me to a escalation department that could supposedly have all the information. When I asked about an IP address that's what I was told. That there would have to be a flag set to record an IP and under 1k there was no flag. I won't disclose who my bank is because until this is over as I DON'T have all the information so I won't publicly bash them. This is all I know now.

Trust me that's been in my head. I spent a while going through my workstations dns cache seeing if anyone at my house had used my computer while I was at work. Not saying that's the only way but that would have been the easiest way for anyone I know. Certain things bothered me about it though and I don't think my friends and family are smart enough for this lol. My bank just started using online wire transfers. Just recently so people didn't have to go into a branch to do it. Also my bank doesn't log ip addresses for transactions under 1k. Found that out from their fraud department. I had 10 999 dollar wire transfers.

All valid points. I feel I am safe on the net. I'm a pretty tech savvy guy and know all the usual don't dos. This happened from my online banking account. Someone logged in with my username and password without a failed attempt. 2 step verification required a code being texted to me for any new device logins. I obviously never got alerted to any logins. I do use Gpay which used my debit card. I'm not sure of all the dark ways but I'd assume that could have been a way. I also know that no matter what I do to "hide" myself if I'm stupid and give away information then everything is null. I'd just like to start being alot smarter and hide myself however I can. This most likely had something to do with either mine or my wife's smartphone. I'm just not good enough to say how. We did go through and change every financial password we had when we found out about the incident.

Ok long story short and may have nothing to do with anything I did but my bank account was hacked and someone wired out all of my money. The bank will recover my funds in time. What I think I want to do is go full VPN, firewall and offload all my passwords to external. Curious on opinions on vpns, devices to run them on and password managers. I've kicked around the idea of building a pfsense PC. Not sure if it's the best option. I have a wrt3200acm router that could run ddwrt on. Any VPN I use I want to run on whatever router I'm using but also need it to run independently on 2 Android phones and 1 android tablet. So what has everyone used. What speeds are you able to get and what problems have you had

I see the reason for just about any old os to still be in use. I had to build a pc for a friend using a cnc laser etcher. The machine would be about 125k. It was old but was in a clean environment and worked fine. Drivers for the pci card and security card would not work past win 98. I did improve it for him though. He had an interim pc that he would put flash drives in to move files to a floppy then over to his 98 machine. I gave the 98 machine usb 2.0 mass storage capabilities so he could put his flash drives straight into it. I also used an old Dell sold for xp but just old enough that it had a supported chipset for 98. Replaced the psu all the ide cables the cd-rom drive and used a small ssd with sata to ide bridge. Made it as reliable as I could using 16 year old base hardware. I did try for weeks to make his hardware run on something newer... couldn't make it happen.

If anyone cares if you create a storage space using win pro or server w/e doesn't matter and it's thin provisioned it can and will "use" more than the available capacity. If this happens it seems there is nothing to do other than start over. The only way for this not to happen is to set an optimization schedule up with power shell so it can zero back out the un used space. No way for that to work after the capacity is over full. This server is going to have the pool re done once our off-site backup arrives. The new pool is going to get setup on my server 2016 data center machine. Going for fixed provisioning mirrored refs. I'm hoping this is going to be our answer for our ignorance of monitoring the server. Originally the only item that was set in place to notify us of a problem was crystal disk info to alert us with any drive problems. Obviously crystal disk thinks everything is fine right now.

Ok I don't have access to the server at this moment but I think I know what happened. I think it was setup thin provisioned and that the unused space doesn't zero back out and keeps adding up. Does anyone know how to revert this or are we going to have to start over

Last note would be that I set the pool up on my system using windows 10 workstation pro. The server is running windows 10 pro. Workstation allows me to set it up using refs. I've done this for a few systems over the years and I haven't had anyone else contact me with any issues. I originally liked the idea of storage spaces because I could set everything up and the software raid pool could just get dropped into any windows 10 machine without issue.

And it's not easy to see but I have a photo from when this got set last March. Shows free space around 2000Gb. Movie and shows have good compression so they don't take up alot of space and the library isn't that big. Took 3 years to use roughly 5Tb so when the system was rebuilt with 14Tb it was thought to be good for a while.

Lmao yes terabyte it was late when I made the thread. Drive properties and storage pool capacity don't match. I really don't think something actually needs deleted or purged.

Ok strange one and I've seen it crop up on the net with no clear answer. Set a friend up with a plex server last year. I set up a mirrored refs storage pool with 4 drives 2x6gb and 2x8gb set pool size to 24gb. Actual storage is obviously 14gb minus provisioning. Right now storage spaces states low storage and that all drives are 99.99% full totalling 24.45gb. but just looking at the drive used space is only 6.78gb. Tried to run optimize through powershell and got a message that optimization cannot be run due to the disk backing the volume is full. This has been fine for a year so this is not an initial setup problem. The server is ran remotely so being that it's not checked alot I can't say what day this actually happened. We setup email notifications for any drive issues so more or less just assumed we were good.

Obviously too much for me to do in a year lol. My coding/programming experience is very limited. I am finding in the efi files I can open and read that there are variables actually called on as default actually designated (default) whatever variable this is it's typically not the one called for. I'm using a simple example as something I can readily see in the bios which is sata operation. If I reset cmos sata operation defaults to raid. The efi file calls for ahci however the variable for raid is (default). It appears that any default designation takes precedence and needs to be changed. I may be able to chase that further up the tree but I'd like to see if I can really make just ONE setting stick. It would be the first win in this thing. I really cannot figure out how to edit the efi file directly. I can extract with ifr so I can read it and know the address for everything but where do I go from there?

What I need to find is the amiMMTool I believe. I'm using ifr extractor to read the modules but it can't open everything. I can only read so much in the hex editor but I really need to know the main file system so I can change it.

Appreciate it. I'm already posted over there and at win raid. I only posted here as well because even though there is no dedication here to that kind of work I know there are some very talented people at this forum. Someone seems to be trying to help me now over at biosmods. Fingers crossed. No matter where I find the answer I'll be sure to put it up on here and everywhere else I posted. This has been a challenge in research with the limited number of sources out there. I might as well make it easier for the next guy.