j1mgg

no, and it often does impact performance negative because there are important components missing,  which, incidentally often leads to stutters. 
 
im not saying that's the reason but its possible and generally "optimized" windows / os is not beneficial (usually the opposite) 
 

At this moment in time, I have no plans to go to 4k, and do not like UW.

Thank you all for the replies.
 
I will do some more looking into squeezing more out of my current setup.

5800x3D is really only a great option for those on 2000/3000 series, if you are already on 5000 series its more of a sidegrade in quite a lot of games which benefit from it, and some that may not. 
 
I would honestly wait until its really not able to do what you ask of it.

For games I prefer my tuned 5900X over my tuned 58X3D. I play at 4K/60.
 
I will probably upgrade my kid from my old 5600X to my 58X3D.

Stick it. You already own it, and besides cached strained titles you wont see massive improvement on averages, just 1% and .1% lows. If you are super sensitive to stutter then maybe, but for most, they wont feel it.
@freeagent Sorry for the ping, but if you want you can go and speak in support of 5900X here.

IMVHO: neither.
Take your time to get a grip on your new GPU, before considering buy more/newer hardware. 
7900 XTX also could run out of steam your PSU, so... take your time.

Ultimately it's up to you on how you want to manage the data. OS and most used applications on the SSD make the most sense from a speed perspective, but whether it's the same or different drives doesn't really matter. if you are capacity limited then moving large games to another drive makes sense. That's what I've done since my OS drive is only 250 GB.
 
Just make sure to have a backup of any important data on a separate drive(s) if needed. That's the only real reason I can see to split things up.

The primary reason people have traditionally used separate OS and game/data drives is that SSDs used to be much more expensive per GB than they are now. You'd get like a 128-256GB SSD for OS and programs, and then an HDD for data so you could have a couple of terabytes or something for that.
 
That's not the case any more. HDDs are still cheaper per GB and also support drive capacities in excessive of 8TB, but getting something like a 500GB SSD and 2TB HDD costs almost as much as a single 2TB SSD in some cases. In short, it's not as important from a cost perspective any more to divvy the data. It certainly doesn't make any sense if both drives are SSDs, anyways.
 
There is some benefit in having the OS separate, simply so you can wipe/reinstall without affecting your data. However, you can achieve that much with a partition, so you don't need a separate physical drive.

My parents bought my son a mixed box of lego for his christmas and it took me weeks to work out exactly what was all there, but by god, he has loads. Also started to buy some technics stuff, dont buy off ebay, just ends up in tears with missing pieces.
 

Leave the HX1000 in multirail mode. If there are issues with the card switch to single rail.
 
Your title says HX1000, but this says AX1000. The Corsair AX1000 80+ Titanium does not have a multirail mode so I'm assuming you're asking about the Corsair HX1000 Platinum.
 
You can look at getting replacement cables (not extension cables). Needs to be compatible with "Corsair Type 4" or "Corsair Type 3" (the PCIe cables are interchangeable between Type 3/Type 4. See Corsair's Cable Compatibility Chart.)
 
These are going to be the cheapest option. $4 per cable + shipping from Corsair. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/Type-3-Flat-Black-Ribbon-Cable-PCIe-6%2B2-pin%2C-single-connector%2C-Compatible-with-all-type-3-pin-out-PSU/p/CP-8920130
These if you want the sleeved style of the other cables, though they're not in stock on Corsair's store so I don't know where else you could get them from. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/PC-Components/Power-Supplies/Type-3-Sleeved-Black-PCIe-Cable/p/CP-8920111
They also have some individually sleeved coloured cables for $25-$30 each, but that would get expensive quick. You could also look at 3rd party options for custom cables, just make sure they're compatible with your specific PSU. Different brands and different models within the same brand can use different cables.

Look for Corsair sleeved cables
Or if you have the budget look for CableMod sleeved cables

Then it's done for. I hope you can get a replacement quickly!

You could try the old paper-clip test:
https://www.silverstonetek.com/downloads/QA/PSU/PSU-Paper Clip-EN.pdf
 
If that doesn't get the fan to spin on the PSU, then it's dead.

That doesn't sound promising,the VRMs probably can't handle more than that.
So your card is already at the limit,there is nothing you can do here.

This is a perfect card for 1080p non raytraced Minecraft. I can hear the beautiful sounds of the FPS induced coil whine already.
 
@op you might want to adjust your power slider so that it can deliver the voltage needed to be stable.

Nope,it won't.
I recommend to increase the power limit slider if the power supply can handle it,it will give a bigger boost in performance without sacrificing stability.
That's an unstable overclock.

It's really not worth the trouble if your system is crashing. Also
Ampere scales really well at 4K and 8K as opposed to 1440p and 1080p (not that anybody should use this card for 1080p, dear god)
 
Sidenote, really looking forward to seeing the 1440p 6900XT vs the 3090.

When overclocking it's best to test in as many different programs as possible to ferret out any instability, as you've experienced, stable in one thing doesn't mean stable in everything.
Now +75/80 isn't going to make a big difference, but should get you a few more fps's (I'd expect low single digit increases for AAA games, and low double digits for something like cs:go)

The top results are always going to be the extreme overclockers. You can narrow the search results to match your clock speeds.

I feel that Monitor will be dated really soon since it doesn't have HDMI 2.1.  I feel Q1 of next year you're going to start seeing a mainstream of 4K Monitors that properly support HDMI 2.1 for the same money with better features and options.

I got a dell s2721dgf today. From reading it has the same panel as the highly rated lg27gl850, but 165hz out of the box, also has a more extravagant surrounding.
 
If you know someone that works in a big office, they may be able to get you a further 15% off with dell advantage, or have access to a student email address, dell also does discounts for them.
 
I managed to get it delivered for £330 all in.

Graphics settings are always more important than resolution. Even High 1080p would look better than Low 4K. Also at 27" you will barely notice a difference between 1440p and 4K, but you will certainly notice the better performance with 1440p. There is no point in going for 4K if you then have to turn down the settings imo.

I have 2 of the 27GN850's and have absolutely no issues. Pretty much always playing in a dark room because it's always late when i use my PC. Even for an OLED owner like myself it's still not as bad as many make it out to be. Other LCDs may have better contrast but coming from OLED every LCD monitor has "bad" contrast. I wouldn't worry about it. Otherwise it's basically a perfect monitor.
 
Using 2 different resolution monitors is no problem, but scaling might be a bit different for each monitor.

I have the 27GL850 which is the 2019 model, same panel on it. NO issues with it personally in dark environments. I work overnights and keep my office lights off a lot to help my eyes and notice little to no issues with it. I also have a cheap junky 1080p monitor on the same system with no issues.