Dipypang

There is no correct answer to this question, they are both basic recording interfaces.
Here's some things to keep in mind and a link to my personal favourite gear in a given price bracket.
Personally I'd suggest some of the low end Behringer stuff over a Scarlett from both my personal experience and the experience of others I've worked with in the past but in the end how you spend your money is up to you,

Sloth

Red is universally the right channel.
 
assuming the connectors are of good quality, the audio quality won’t be affected by it. The cord itself can change the sound if its quality is bad (there’s a lot of discussions over this, but that’s all you need to know really).

The AT 2020 and 2035 certainly aren't bad microphones if you don't have much background noise, if you do have background noise you may want to use a dynamic microphone as per my previous reply. There are a plethora of microphone options available with many microphones rivalling or outright beating the 2020/35 in a very similar price range (Brands like MXL, 3U, ADK and CAD among others) so just take your time finding the microphone that will sound the best in your voice. If you can't try them yourself the Podcastage YouTube channel can be a very useful point of reference.
 
Sloth

DAC stands for Digital to Analog Converter, the 2i2 would do that job in place of the FiiO in the signal chain you demonstrated, making the FiiO useless essentially.

If you were to use an interface you could continue to use the FiiO DAC as output and simply use the interface as input, personally if you just want a way to connect an XLR mic to your PC the 2i2 is likely overkill (price wise) for this task, many other interfaces will perform just as well at a much lower price (UMC202HD for example if you really need both XLR inputs).

Sloth

When I first boot up the pc, it starts at 7001mhz. But as soon as I run a game, it instantly dropped to 6801mhz. As you said it’s normal for around 2.5% performance dip for that, so I guess it’s not a problem then...
thanks for the information guys, now I can rest assured.

What does mean sir? The clock speed is default and the temp avg 50c.
 
I just updated the latest drivers last night before the game and unigine benchmark and that’s the result. Haven’t try reinstall tho, will try later.

Without HDR is 144fps. If I turned off the Gsync, the DotA2 can get to 200++ FPS but with the same war, it still dropped to 40fps... 

I attempted to stalk a guy once.  He one shot me through the windows and doors of no joke three buildings from halfway across the town with a weapon I didn’t have a prayer of getting ahold of because the game had only started like a minute previously.  I think I had a shotgun.  The guy had to know the shot was even possible, have a weapon that could make the shot, know exactly where I was, run to the place he could do it, and make the shot.  I honestly do not want to have in my brain the amount of knowledge about a game necessary to pull something like that.

This is the big problem with pubG imho.  There’s too big a learning curve and the definition between master and meat is very very narrow.  I keep seeing these complaints from streaming players that amount to “everyone is hiding from us” though it’s never said that way. Damn right they are.  The ones that didn’t rage quit anyway.  The thing that makes me not be annoyed with pubG is that it’s free.  If I’d payed $40 to have that kind of garbage time I’d want it back from someone.

By staying at 2133? General loss in performance, memory heavy tasks will be slower
 
Just go into the bios and use an XMP setting. It takes two seconds

If you have a ryzen cpu, it's more than 100% worth it.
 
Intel, worth it, but not as much.
 
It takes two clicks in the bios regardless

If I may make a few more suggestions. Downgrade your Os drive to 250 gb, upgrade the second NVME to 1 TB and get a 2 TB sata SSD. Drop the HDD and downgrade your ram to 4x8 gb. This will STILL make your system feel more responsive then having 64 gigs of ram and populate all 4 dimm slots which considering your not using rgb ram still seems like overkill and honestly is only a recommendation since you seem to prefer a fully loaded system as a looks thing. 16 gb 2x8 is usually more then enough unless your doing professional things (In which case I would tell you to drop the 9900ks for Ryzen anyway) or you are a total chrome tab fiend. I have also never heard of your psu choice, a quick google source seems to suggest its pretty good but I would recommend spending some budget from your ram on getting a nice platinum unit instead since your obviously not lacking for cash and a nice modular efficient powersupply is a great comfort to have. 

Just for aesthetics may I recommend the NH-D15 chromax black and switching to the NF-A15 HS PWM fans, just so you get the same fans and they be all black XD?

Okay so I’ll just need to adjust everything to my own comfort way as you guys did
Thanks for the information and explanation guys, really helps me a lot as a newbie in audio setup!
Also thanks @rice guru!
Thanks thanks!

I use a 500Gb SSD for my OS ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Alright sir I think I will use it right away
Thank you sir!

The laptop only has a GT 640M inside, so don't expect miracles. If you try to run games at 1440p with it, you're going to hate your life and everyone in it. If you watch videos in 1440p and either use the native laptop screen for games or drop the monitor's resolution to 720p, then you'd at least have the benefit of a much bigger screen.
 
TL;DR, watch movies, stream, etc. on that monitor now and be amazed at the definition, clarity and contrast. Play a game on that monitor every now and then just to remind yourself how awesome life will be with the new computer.

Okay so I’ll just need to adjust everything to my own comfort way as you guys did
Thanks for the information and explanation guys, really helps me a lot as a newbie in audio setup!
Also thanks @rice guru!
Thanks thanks!

"Better" is only actually better if is makes a noticeable difference. The biggest difference between the two is the level your speakers are at. Figure out the postilion of the volume knob for comfortable listening at both the different PC volumes. Then stop all sound coming from your computer (but leave it turned on) and adjust the volume knob between the two positions. Do you notice a hissing sound at the higher volume? If so, then that is the cost of keeping the PC volume lower. If you can't hear a different, then you should be good either way.
 
Don't put too much stock into a theoretical best practice if it doesn't actually matter.
 
If you took that to the extreme and cranked the speakers all the way up so that your PC volume had full range, yes, that would be bad. But what you are talking about is a reasonable compromise and is exactly what I do myself.

Have been struggling with numbness sitting on a plastic chair for long hour usage and NOW the chair which I have been wanting to get one at last arrived right onto my butt!
damn comfy and well built!
the thing I love the most currently

Edit: everything I say below is about analog audio. When using digital audio (like the volume sliders on individual applications) then keep them at 100%, using anything other than 100% will compromise your dynamic range. So when talking about the computer's volume output, I am talking about the master slider for Windows, that is the only control that effects the DAC.
 
When using consumer -10dBV analog audio devices (which includes even high-end), you typically don't want to exceed 75% volume on your output device. The reason is that you are dealing with a limited input range. If you exceed that range then clipping happens and your audio becomes heavily distorted. It is better to lower the output so that isn't a risk. You can makeup the volume by turning up the speakers.
 
You also don't want to go much below 75% because then you are sending a needlessly weak single through the audio cables and noise will be introduced into the single. If you want the "best" approach, always leave the computer at 75% and use your speaker's volume control. Having said that, I don't even do that, if you have good quality cables and keep them away from power lines, then you are probably safe with anything between 25 and 75% without much noticeable noise.
 
In professional audio devices (using balanced +4dBu interfaces) you have a very clear standard on what is considered "line-level" and clipping should never happen (in theory at least, most pro-audio techs will still avoid 100% volume on outputs). Also, pro-audio uses balanced interfaces, which uses a positive and negative single to almost completely eliminate noise from the line. So with those kinds of connections you can easily have a cable go 500 feet even at 1% power and have no noise (which is how microphones work, their power levels are insanely low).

It will absolutely be worth it, as they are 2 ways, and have much much nicer cabinets and amplifiers.

the headphone amp on that unit is pretty damn capable too. overall just a great budget unit. fiio treating us poor boys right

Well, this is gonna be a long one, get comfortable.
 
The factors that affect how loud a speaker can get are:
 
It's power handling (how much power it can get supplied with before damage occurs)
 
Enclosure (the main "body" of a speaker, usually made of wood, or thick plastic, although some higher end speakers use aluminium, carbon fiber, etc.)
 
Sensitivity (how loud a speaker will get with one watt, most speakers have a sensitivity of around 88dB, meaning they will get to 88dB with one watt of power, human speech is around 60-65dBa)
 
Available power (a speaker won't get loud with 1 watt of power, so we need quite a bit of power, most speakers are happy with around 50 watts)
 
So, given those factors, companies generally try to make a speaker relatively sensitive, but not extremely sensitive to the point where the noise floor is very audible, but klipsch are quite famous for making sensitive speakers, such as the Klipschorn which has a sensitivity of 105dB, so if we give that speaker 1 watt, it will produce audio at an amplitude/volume of 105dB, Which for reference is similar to an engine-driven chainsaw about 1 metre from your ear, which is very loud.
 
Most speakers are listed of having a maximum dB SPL, which is given as continuous and peak SPL, Peak SPL is how loud the speaker can get momentarily, and Continuous SPL is how loud the speaker can get for a long period of time, alot of speakers used in applications such as concerts can get extremely loud, both continuously and peak. Such as the JBL VTX A12, which is rated at 146 dB continuously, which is over 10dB louder than a jet engine 100ft above you, so very, very loud.
 
With subwoofers, their cabinet is generally "tuned", So is designed to get very loud near a certain frequency, and play clearly at that frequency, Main speakers (satellites, 2.0 speakers etc.) Are not tuned, as they have to play a wide range of frequencies, And we want all those frequencies to sound nice and clear. Subwoofers are designed to play a strict amount of frequencies, The majority of subwoofers play about 23-120hz, But some subwoofers can play all the way down to 0 Hz, Aka the rotary subwoofer. https://www.soundandvision.com/content/eminent-technology-trw-17-rotary-subwoofer
Rotary subwoofers will play very loud, as a fan is generally excellent at pressurizing air, and thats what a speaker is designed to do, Pressurize air. However rotary subwoofers cant play much above 20 hz, so are only good for specific applications.
 
Subwoofers are actually an excellent way to increase the maximum volume of smaller speakers, as all the low frequencies (such as 80hz and below) can be played on the subwoofer's, So the smaller speakers can concentrate on playing sound above 80hz, or wherever the "crossover" is set to. (I'll explain these later) This allows to them to play audio alot louder, as they dont have to worry about 80hz and below, which takes alot of power to do. So all that power that was spent on playing 80hz and below can now be spent on playing above 80hz, so much higher volumes can be achieved. This is why subwoofers are used in the majority of home cinemas, as they can help the main speakers achieve much higher volumes, and they can provide alot of "oomph".
 
If you look at speakers and their applications, home speakers generally will never get up to 120dB, it's just too loud, unless you're the late jeremy kipnis, with his home cinema. https://www.digitaltrends.com/home-theater/cine-beta-kipnis-studio-standard-6-million-kss-home-theater/
Cinema speakers will get to 130dB at most, which is enough to fill a room, especially when you have a 9.1 or more setup.
 
DAC's generally won't affect the maximum volume achieveable, but some have higher output RMS, while some have pretty low output RMS, My Schiit YGGDRASIL is definetley quieter than my CHORD DAVE, But they aren't exactly in the same price bracket.
 
Sources absolutely affect maximum achieveable volume, I find spotify to be relatively quiet, and Foobar2000 very loud, You can get EqualizerAPO to apply effects to level everything off to a certain volume.

altec lansing bxr1221. Have been using since 2013 and very satisfied overall but >75% volume the sound quality dropped with noise.
I am ready if I need to change a better speakers.