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RainingTacco

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About RainingTacco

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  1. No it doesn't shock, even when i touch it or touch it and touch something like water pipes/water heater in my room. As i said it's "grounded". I even tried touching cable to the I/O and water heater and it doesn't help. Im thinking about touching the grounding screws on the motherboard and water heater while the PC is running. Is it safe? I think it should after all these are grounding screws. But i don't think it will help in case there's a bad grounding in the house, like the earth prod/wire for the house being oxidized or poor conducting. There even might be few grounding circuit in my house, i don't really know since it's pretty old. I know for sure that my PC is "grounded" right now, because before it shocked me when i touched it and water heater at the same time, and i got slight buzzing in my earbuds. Now there's no buzzing and no shock, as the neutral wire was connected to the earth wire in the wall socket[bridging https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bootleg_ground]. As i said pretty old installation. I don't have any buzzing in audio in home theater or in my speakers/headphones, at least not the one i could notice, so it might be there, but i don't hear it even on max volume.
  2. So i have yet another audio problem. I've bought Sennheiser GSP 302 headset recently, and i also have some old microsoft webcam[usb connected]. All of these have pretty bad static that you can hear even when the mic gain is set to 0, with 100 volume[static is absolutely overpowering when at +30dB and 100 volume]. My main PC has B450M Mortar Max and integrated sound card, so do other pc with B85M D3H motherboard and N5010 dell laptop. Funny thing is -when i plug microphone to these PCs/laptop, which are plugged in different rooms/wall sockets i still have the same static. All PCs are plugged to three prong socket which is grounded, but i don't know about the quality of the electric installation and the earthing, it might be inadequate since its an aluminum installation instead of copper. All PCs have Windows 1909 and are updated, have necessary drivers installed. Yes i've tried plugging them to front or rear, it makes difference, but the static is till there and it's noticeable. What's weirder when i plug the microphone and turn it off, there's still the same static. Even just plugging headphones into microphone socket cause quite a lot of noise. So it looks like noise is pretty much innate to the audio system. I know that you can use noise supression or turn the volume down but, you get tinny, emotionless voice when supression is on, and when volume is low your voice is too quiet. So these are not really a fixes of the cause of the problem, but remedies. So what's causing the static noise? Is it inevitable and present in every system[shouldn't muted/disabled mic not create any static? does the jack and mic act as an antenna and still cause noise?]? Maybe my grounding/earthing is inadequate, and this is causic static? I know how ungrounded headphones sound its a buzzing[i had that in the house when i've used ungrounded source] and i don't have that. I might be wrong but i heard VERY faint[on the verge of being audible] humming when plugged my very sensitive earbuds. But they have very, very cheap cable without shielding so they might act as antenna. Other headphones doesn't have this problem but their impedance is higher and cable is shielded. Im really at a loss, because i want to buy another headset and return this one[its uncomfortable also] but i don't know if it will still have this noise. If it's indeed grounding problem, then external DAC won't help at all, neither will headset with integral DAC and USB.
  3. So i was cleaning my PC, put the switch on the back of the PSU to OFF position, and unplugged the cord since i needed to move it. I've worked on it with ESD straps, so there was no static buildup[at least it shouldnt in theory]. But then when i was plugging my power cord back into the PSU socket i heard one little pop sound/noise. Is that inrush current? I mean the PSU switch was still off[at least i think so, or maybe not]. The question is, is it normal? I've also read the horror stories about PSU going bad when you switch the surge protector on and off, even just by the morning and evening when you go to sleep. I tend to do that because i also have a router plugged to the surge protector, so i don't want it to waste power during night. PSU is Corsair RMx 850. I mean i want biggest longevity out of my PSU, so maybe i should turn the router by switch and just leave the surge protector on? It's only two diodes after all, plus monitor diode.
  4. Hello I have a VERY peculiar problem. Whenever i start or stop a sound, a popping sound occurs. It happens when i click the windows audio icon in right bottom corner and then click outside it, so the sound abruptly ends. It produce a fairly loud popping sound. Same when i fast forward any audio track in either windows video player or in chrome. There's also crackling when i move sound slider in youtube in chrome, and when i move audio slider in windows[couldn't catch it on recording somehow]. This of course happens when i play sound. I don't have popping or crackling otherwise. Here are the videos: Windows icon: https://streamable.com/iozb2i Windows media player: https://streamable.com/6yn6xv Chrome and youtube[relive has problem capturing the video, disregard this]: https://streamable.com/xv7lqy Crackling when i change volume slider in youtube: https://streamable.com/tdvg47 Audio is fine when it starts playing, no crackles and popping, but any start or stop, abrupt sound changes, like new audio starting playing can produce popping -for example this video produce popping sound whenever audio and new scene is played View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3uchX2D2idk&feature=emb_title [0:32 , 0:37 and so on]. I've tested this on two other PCs -laptop and stationary PC and same thing is happening!. Things that are common between these PCs are Windows 10 1909 installation, and all these PCs use SSD. Other than that, everything is completely different hardware wise-mobo,cpu,ram,gpu etc..They use realtek integrated sound card, my main PC uses ALC 892, the other PC ALC 887, and laptop also uses HD Audio driver from Dell. What's funnier, i get the same popping when i fast forward youtube on my android phone! I've tested three headsets and they also have popping.PCs are properly grounded[at least i know that my PC is properly grounded, im not so sure about others, i don't think this could cause issue? and what about phone?].I'm confident this is not a hardware issue. On my main PC i've tested several scenarios: Clean windows 10 install without internet connection: popping Clean windows 10 with internet connection and updated with newest microsoft drivers: popping Clean windows install with no internet connection, updated with newest realtek drivers from my motherboard vendor site: popping I've tried installing generic realtek drivers 2.82 but also had popping. I've also tested without hardware acceleration and there's the same popping in chrome. I don't know how to disable acceleration in windows though. My main pc: Ryzen 3600 2x8GB Patriot Steel 3600 CL17 B450M Mortar Max RX 5700 XT Gigabyte Gaming OC Corsair RMx 850 Other PC: i5 4670 2x4GB 1600 Gigabyte GA-B85M-D3H GTX 660 XFX 550W Laptop is Dell Inspiron N5010 Phone is Redmi Note 7. Headphones are: Sound magic e10 Sennheiser HD201 Pioneer SEM521 I'm seriously at a loss here. Is this normal? Maybe im overreacting to something that other people have? Do i need external sound card/DAC? Maybe there's some EMI/unfiltered voltage on my power supply in house? Some kind of voltage jump in audio system, some kind of short circuit? But how this can happen accros three systems, and my phone[which was not charging at the time]. Im thinking this could be an issue with either fading of audio or audio going into sleep abruptly. I've noticed that even a stock windows 10 installation without internet connection has realtek drivers installed. So they are installed when installing windows itself. Maybe they are the culprit? How could i test this, because when i uninstall them i will get no audio? I would need some other driver that is not realtek and still works. On a sidenote, my main PC has more static when using microphone then the rest.What could be the issue here? I thought newer motherboard would have better audio.
  5. Test every DIMM slot if it's working properly. Then test every channel. Maybe your motherboard has faulty memory controller?
  6. You have 2x4gb ram or 4x4gb ram? You description isnt clear:
  7. I have the same setup. Sadly AMD say it's not a problem.I seriously don't understand why they can't create a driver that would accommodate different pixel clock or vertical blanking[this seems to be the culprit].Other people with 144hz monitors don't have this problem, since they have different default setting that come with monitor[lcd standard, or just higher vblanking/pixel clock]. AMD is happy to put a blame on cheap LCDs -you have to buy some expensive 500 dollar display to work with amd gpu properly. I guess i won't be buying AMD GPUs anymore and i encourage anyone who has problem with their GPUs to do the same. Thats the only way to make them learn.
  8. Man are you seeking validation for your choices? That means you are deep down unsatisfied, or care too much about other people opinion. If you like it than what's the problem?
  9. The whole usmus guide on Techpowerup looks like very time consuming thing, bar inputing shit from dram calculator which is painless.
  10. Well that's pretty shit then I've got some memory retry setting when the board auto OC and it seems to work similar to my concept -ie. if the board wont post two times, it will return to more loose timings.
  11. Lel i know that you can reset settings to default ONCE you are actually in the bios. Im talking about situation when you OC your memory and the board won't post so you can't access bios and you are forced to put the jumper[clear cmos] or take out the battery. I dont have the button for clear cmos[msi b450m mortar max] like in more expensive boards. This is fucking time consuming when you are messing with each timing, that's why im asking if there's some BIOS option to speed this/make it automatic.
  12. Than of course CMOS clear by jumper or removing the battery? I heard the premium mobos have the clear CMOS button, but i only have the option to use jumper/cause a short or remove the battery? Maybe there's some bios settings, that will remove the OC/reset to default when the PC won't post after let say 2 tries?
  13. Will you use this SSD extensively for copying files for a long amount of time like 5-10 years? High TBW might come handy, and MP510 has twice the TBW of that kingston.
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