rbrowne11

When I was looking for 144hz monitors I came across these two monitors that looked like they were identical but with a price difference of about 100USD some places. What I want to know is does the price increase seriously come from NVIDIA just saying "hey we tested this monitor it works, slap a sticker on and up that price" along with slight settings changes? On top of that, the AMD one advertises overclocking to 155hz when the NVIDIA doesn't. If this is the case then should I, having a 2060 super, opt for the G-Sync one or will I get the same results with the Free-SYNC monitor (which I've read reviews saying is G-Sync compatible). G-Sync Monitor Free-SYNC Monitor

I looked in the bios and the wake up event was set to bios, from there I was able to enable using the keyboard input for wake up which appears to have solved the problem.

I can't seem to wrap my head around this so hopefully the internet can help. My problem comes when I turn on my PC after being shutdown. Everything that should happen (fan spin, rgb, keyboard lights up) does and my monitors even wake up and realize the PC was turned on. After a few seconds the monitors go into sleep mode and say there is no display port input. I have tried clicking and wiggling the mouse and tapping on the keyboard as it seems the PC is sleeping. The way I get around this problem is holding the power button on the case until it turns off, then press the button again to turn it on and it works just fine. If anyone has suggestions, I would love to get around this mild inconvenience! Running Windows 10 Home 64-bit version 1909 PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.13 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i 77 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: OLOy 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($119.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB Video Card ($399.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Phanteks P300 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RM (2019) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($108.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit ($0.00) Monitor: Dell P2419HC 23.8" 1920x1080 60 Hz Monitor Monitor: Dell U2419HC 23.8" 1920x1080 55 Hz Monitor Total: $1098.07 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-10 10:47 EST-0500

Right but then there’s battery life and I wouldn’t like to carry a brick around in my backpack. I would still like some computing power on the go.

Looking to make the switch to a PC and lightweight portable laptop for school from my current MBP. What it comes down to is: Around $300-400 US 8 GB Ram Decent display 13” max Does this machine exist? It won’t have to run much, word processing and some streaming. Battery life doesn’t particularly matter to me but it’s definitely nice not being chained to an outlet. I don’t really want to go Chromebook but if that’s what I’m describing…

What do you mean you don't have the luxury? In my eyes, having to budget on both machines wouldn't be a luxury but more of a sacrifice for convenience and functionality.

I also agree that a higher end laptop seems to be the solution for your specific case. I was wondering something similar as I have a MacBook Pro right now for school which has been everything I need and met all the requirements for working while traveling. Recently, I am starting to lean toward a PC as the convenience of having more computing power at home is outweighing the need for portability. Ideally for me I would have a PC and tablet or Chromebook but since you are looking for one or the other I would go with a top range of your budget laptop. LTT did a video last July...

I am over halfway through college in the US and got have been using my 2017 MBP with Touchbar throughout my studies. I grew up only using Windows computers but now have an iPhone, Apple Watch, and an Apple TV, so the MBP seemed to be a good solution at the end of high school when I was looking for something for school. I don't have many complaints about the general use of the laptop, but as I am getting more into my mechanical engineering degree, I see having a laptop as very limiting. I've had a programming class where a laptop was convenient, if not necessary, and there have been classes where I take notes on my laptop but nothing ever needing me to have a powerful machine while in a lecture. Looking around, I've seen people using tablets to take notes which seems like it could be nice having notes accessible online or whatever, but I've been perfectly fine taking notes on paper. Lately, I have been just leaving my MBP docked with two external monitors, a keyboard, and mouse unless I want to sit on the couch and do homework online. I can't really see myself switching over to android, I like my iPhone-Apple Watch setup and the ease of connectivity is nice with having an apple computer as well but I know there are other options like Dropbox. What I am wondering is, with roughly the same budget (maybe 1,500USD?) what could another set up be? Would a custom PC build with some type of tablet or Chromebook provide the same usability with the increase in computing power? The PC would ideally be able to handle lightweight CAD with some 3D modeling as well as light gaming. Looking for opinions or other's experiences/setups. Edit: I am thinking now if maybe a switch to an iPad along with a PC could work, keeping the features of Apple I like and decreasing power for on the go

I've been trying to put together a PC and before I get to the process of buying parts i wanted feedback from people of the internet who know more than I do! US, trying to game but also going into engineering so I like to mess around with 3D modeling some too. PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.4 GHz 6-Core Processor $129.20 @ OutletPC CPU Cooler Noctua NH-U12S 55 CFM CPU Cooler $59.95 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard $143.89 @ OutletPC Memory Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $77.99 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital Blue 1 TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive $109.89 @ OutletPC Video Card MSI GeForce GTX 1660 Ti 6 GB GAMING X Video Card $299.99 @ Newegg Case Phanteks ECLIPSE P350X ATX Mid Tower Case $63.98 @ Newegg Power Supply Corsair TXM Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply $79.99 @ Newegg Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $1024.88 Mail-in rebates -$60.00 Total $964.88 Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-29 21:47 EDT-0400

With my research I've done, I have narrowed it down to either Stranded UTP, CM or Solid STP, CM bulk Cat6 that I want to purchase. The problem is I'm not sure what will be the best for my application. I want to run it about 50ft to my bedroom of a rental so it will just be tucked into the corners of the walls instead of inside, but still might need to be durable like solid Cat6. I figure I will buy bulk since I will use it in a lot of other instances and it's cheaper this way. Any suggestions or personal experiences with solid vs stranded?

See now doesn't that seem reasonable? Too bad there aren't more people like you that don't just do a job, but do it right. The problem with that in my situation is it's a college town, thousands of people moving in around the same week, everyone is demanding internet.

I was using http://100.64.0.254 to try to access the gateway as that is what my phone and computer are on. I will have to try the other address when I get back. Yes it is the G-240W-E

So this has been a long process of trying to set up my own router (EdgeRouter ER-X) and access point (Ubiquity Ap-AC). First of all: I am renting a house in college and have Gig fiber connection provided. When my ISP came in to install the connection, I was in class unfortunately so I was unable to ask them the questions I wanted. They went and installed a Nokia Gateway 3 and left a very vague sheet on how to connect. The only way they say to connect to the router for settings is through their website and that has barely anything other than number of devices connected. I found the IP of the router and tried connecting through a browser like normal but the page instantly comes up saying the page refused to connect. What I'm wondering is if this is a way for the ISP to have all the controls on the settings or why else they would do this? I have contacted their support and the only answers I have gotten about setting up my router is 1. They only use DHCP and 2. They wont take down the SSID Broadcast or put the installed hardware into any sort of bridge mode. Does this mean adding my own router will have little to no benefit?