mikeyw64

Oh yeah no doubt there. Especially the gpu noise is waaaaay lower.

Hi All

given I have 2 almost identical builds in front of me I thought I might compare the LF2 Performance against my custom loop.

Damn, the LF2 seems like a good cooler (although noted the custom loop is cooling CPU & GPU)

(Ambient was 19.5c, both CPUs with PBO enabled, MY PC (RHS) on its daily settings of 50% Water Pump Speed and Rad Fans fixed at 850RPM, Case Fans fixed at 700RPM, both after approx 30 minutes cinebench R23)

Built for my GFs daughter

Coolermaster Q300L EVGA 60W BQ 80+ Bronze PSU

Gigabyte B550M D3H 5600X cooled by a Liquid Freezer 2 (top mounted , can just get the RAM out with it fitted but not back in!)
MSI GTX 580 8GB Armor Gigabyte
2 x 8Gb Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200
1 TB Crucial P2
All fans are Arctic RGB P12 PWM PSTs
Perspex Tube to stop GPU Sag
Temps are from about 35 minutes into a stress test (ambient was 19c and all side panels and filters fitted)

NB am aware that he PSU may be "stealing" some air however I think that is offset by the 2 front fans blowing cool air straight over the GPU

Looks pretty neat, the arctic P12s are amazing and I also use them in all my builds.

most psus the fan dose not spin till 55c

Damn quad rank, pretty horrible config and that is an ic you can find on 2666 bin crucial bare pcb though it looks to be the best 2666 bin ic you can get, doesnt matter here as quad rank is terrible because of how heavy it is on the imc but since rev e is really light on the imc pretty sure 3600 c14 is still doable and you can just take someone elses profile and do some slight detuning or adjustments since new 3200 and up ballistix bins are d9wfl which are better than these 2666 bin rev e though c9bjz is the best of these 2666 bins and 5000+ is still acheivable on these so i doubt youd need to do much detuning

4x16 config? Its still dual rank just 4 single sided sticks instead of 2 dual sided sticks
 
You should be able to do at the very least 3600 since rev e is very light on the imc though i doubt itd do much more than 4000 cause board is pretty crap, im pretty sure someone has profiles for 3600 c14 for whatever micron ic you have just look for it online, since micron is very consistent you should be able to just plug and play, i also suggest checking thaiphoon burner to see what ics you have, 16gbit rev b is prefferable, 16gbit rev e is pretty sht (worse than 8gbit rev e)
 
max 1.5v if you are running w/o fan due to heat issues, guaranteed safe 1.6v as there are kits with xmp of 1.6v that use volt tolerant ics (djr, b die, rev e/b, etc.) Id advise against going over 1.7v even with fan just to make sure the imc doesnt degrade. Though unlikely youll need over 1.5v unless you are trying to run 3800+ c14, apparently these micron ics can benifit from lower vttddr so you can run it default (half of ram volt) or abit below default (-100 - -200mv below default vttddr depending on ram volt aka ~700mv) though this is trial and error based and every stick is different
 
 
I suggest looking at github ddr4 oc tutorial as that has a decent amount of info to get a newbie started, also look at buildzoid vids as he has made some ballistix oc vids though those can last upto an hour so listen to those in the background or something. For ram oc references you can look for some online on other forums

I wonder if its possible to Patent "Common Sense" ?

Reason I'm currently still using the GTX950 rather than the GTX980TI is there is a leak from the water block.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0HWmfYZ0PU
Big shout out to the guys & gals at XSPC for being so on the ball regarding a query on an obsolete product.
The intial response made me smile for some reason
"Well I’ve never seen that before!"
Anyways top marks for very quickly identifying the issue and pointing me in the direction of a fix
[my comments]
--------------
Just took a look at the design. It’s a small internal oring that’s failed.
See the round part with the hole in the middle.
That oring will need replacing.
Bodging it with silicone {as I asked] would work for a while but it’s not ideal.
We don’t [have replacements] . I’ll have to check with engineering to find the sizes.
1x 902mm (main gasket)
1x 82mm (where the issue is)
2x 20*1.5mm (connector block)
That’s the outer diameter and thickness. The material is buna-n, but silicone would be fine too.


 

Osprey Rebuilt
Originally i was planning on a full custom case + cooling loop however for now the custom case element has been put on hold.
I have however taken the principle of what I wanted to achieve (ie the radiators isolated from the main case body)  and for now built a custom soft loop (rather than the hard loop originally envisioned) into my Q500L.
Yes I know there is some jankiness but it does what I want and I'm happy.
Case: Coolermaster Q500L (inverted, extra feet, plastic side panel replaced with tempered glass)
PSU: Corsair SF650 + Cablemod cable set
MoBo : Gigabyte B550M Aorus Elite
RAM: 64Gb Crucial Ballistix 3000 DDR4
CPU: Ryzen 5 5600X
GPU: GTX950/GTX980TI (see follow up post)
Boot Drive: Crucial P2 300GB NVME
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB
Res/Pump: EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT 360 DDC
Radiators: 2 x XSPC TX360 Crossflow
CPU Block: EK-Classic
GPU (950) Block: noname Chinese cheapie
GPU (980TI) Block: XSPC Razor GTX 980 & Backplate
Case Fans: EZYDIY Fab Moonlight
Radiator Fans: Arctic P12
Fan/RGB Controller: Aquacomputer Octo/Aquasuite software
RGB Hub: Generic powered hub
 
 

 

 
Here's the Jankiness






Looks a bit cleaner from the front


 

9mm ply panels for the inner case of my custom case build.

Couple of items sat on them for scale.

Next job is to measure up and cut fan holes etc

well that's the first element of the custom case, the outer cosmetic shell, is here. For reference this is 400(w)x450(h)x170(d) mm and the "window" is 330x330 mm

well that's the first element of the custom case, the outer cosmetic shell, is here. For reference this is 400(w)x450(h)x170(d) mm and the "window" is 330x330 mm

Yes it will.

The current case is 380 wide x 255 deep but is lined up with the back edge of the desk .

The footprint of the new design is 450 wide by 335 deep and will butt up to the wall behind the desk.

There's an 80mm gap between the desk edge and wall so the current case is effectively also 335 mm from the wall and there's 100mm clearance between the current case and back of monitor.

The new case will however be 20mm taller than the current case

dammit why will those duplicate picture not delete when I delete them!!

personally I would back up any data to a secondary internal/external drive, create a brand new W10 USB installer and start from scratch.
 
 
Alternatively try the instructions at

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/all/error-0x800f0988/cddbd7c4-7bfa-4128-87d1-5712477faf4e

Recently added an Aquacomputer Octo to my system, tiny little box about the footprint of a credit card and only around €60/USD72



The software used with is brilliant and highly configurable

All the way from Customisable dashboards


Through Virtual Sensors, this one is to generate a Fan Control Temp figure biased towards GPU load


This is linked to a soft sensor



Which is then used in Fan Control


Whats also really nice is Customisable notification that can generate windows alerts,emails or even tweets

This one as an example generates a Windows Pop Up Alert if the AIO pump fails




Taking it one stage further it can also send Windows shutdown events so this one shuts down the PC if one of the AIO pumps fails for longer than the specified time or immediately if the CPU temps hit stupid figures





And for good measure it can also push selected stats via an API to a web page (on aquacomputers servers)  so you can easily  health check remotely .

Another thing is that any of the virtual/soft sensors are also viewable in  programs such as HWinfo

 

do you mean something like this ?

Well it's a professional I know so hopefully it won't cost too much.

the answer at the bottom of this page probably sounds like your best option (ignore the reference to W8, Wo has the same option/functionality)

https://superuser.com/questions/1294071/how-to-recover-the-windows-10-mbr-after-w-linux-install

 
You can reinstall the Windows boot manager by booting off Windows bootable media.
Press F8 while booting the system to go into the Windows Recovery Menu. Unlike other version Windows 8’s recovery menu has the Metro UI style. Click on Troubleshoot. Click on Advanced options to get into Automatic Repair menu. Click Startup Repair This will return the Windows bootloader, but remove the ability to boot Linux. You can add Linux to the boot menu by following these directions.
 

Recently added an Aquacomputer Octo to my system, tiny little box about the footprint of a credit card and only around €60/USD72



The software used with is brilliant and highly configurable

All the way from Customisable dashboards


Through Virtual Sensors, this one is to generate a Fan Control Temp figure biased towards GPU load


This is linked to a soft sensor



Which is then used in Fan Control


Whats also really nice is Customisable notification that can generate windows alerts,emails or even tweets

This one as an example generates a Windows Pop Up Alert if the AIO pump fails




Taking it one stage further it can also send Windows shutdown events so this one shuts down the PC if one of the AIO pumps fails for longer than the specified time or immediately if the CPU temps hit stupid figures





And for good measure it can also push selected stats via an API to a web page (on aquacomputers servers)  so you can easily  health check remotely .

Another thing is that any of the virtual/soft sensors are also viewable in  programs such as HWinfo

 

full disclosure, I haven't watched it, but I do believe they have renovations on-going in the office so it could be from that too. 

to the annoying thump thump in the background (I thought I had another tab somewhere also playing) or the content?

 

Did someone forget to tell someone elsewhere in the building to turn their ghetto blaster down!!
 
 

Yeah as someone with a build in a Q300L, trying to work around the cases flaws just aint worth it. Dremel all the way. I ended up making 2x140mm holes in the front only. Two Arctic P14s up front, and a Arctic P12 out the back, thats it, Deepcool Gammaxx 400EX air cooler, and a de-shroud mod on the GPU with two arctic P12s. Both the CPU and GPU are OCed and the fans are controlled through speedfan. My fans dont go above 50% fan speed, and under load even with the OC, my GPU stays below 70c, CPU below 65c, this is just the recorded temps, not above ambient. Super quiet under load, nothing gets hot, and its all OCed, so yeah, i tried like you to make the case work in anyway i could, but at the end it wasnt worth it, and cutting holes in it solved all issues.
 
Oh CPU is a R5 2600 and GPU is a RTX 2070 Gaming OC