DriedSponge

Install windows first, then disconnect you windows drive while you install linux.
 
After reconnect your windows drive.  If you want to use grub bootloader for choosing which os to boot rather then booting bios. Then set linux drive as first boot device. Login to linux and update grub. 
 
Otherwise use bios choose which os to boot.
No need to worry about Windows messing with linux at all. Only when windows shares a drive with linux you will find the bootloader is overwritten. On seperate drive booth os is self contained
 
Linux can read NTFS without a problem.
 

Still disconnect the drive, while you install linux. That way you can be safe you do not accidentally erase windows and more importantly both os has their own boot partition/loader.

RAM speed on a home server likely would never be noticable... so that is definitely not the issue.
 
I would potentially run some memory tests like memtest or something similar. Make sure the sticks are all good, and potentially update BIOS.

Bad luck then perhaps? - shrugs - Sh*t does happen unfortunately. Might wanna see if it's still under warranty of any kind 

I can't hear any of that unfortunately. I will have to see if I can get a replacement from the manufacturer. I have not even had this thing a full year.

I cannot hear the pump go brrrr. Everything sounds normal, maybe I should listen closer. I could try the pinching technique.

You should be able to hear or feel the change in flow when doing so, especially if the pump is operating at a decent RPM.

That eliminates BIOS then, it needs 3.50 minimum.
 
For 2 stick operation, asrock recommends the RAM to be plugged in A1 and B1 slot, and Asrock recommends A1 to be filled first. So if you havent followed the former do so even though any configuration should work on a dual channel, but if you have test each RAM on the A1 slot before every other slot.
 

IPMI is remote management. You're able to control the entire system (power button, mouse/keyboard, install an OS, view screen, update BIOS, monitor sensors, etc.) from a completely different system, if you set it up correctly not even on the same network. For a server where you want to stick it in a closet/basement and not touch it again, it's really useful, though it's not a necessity if you're willing to have a keyboard, mouse, and monitor hooked up and walk over to the system for management. Headless operation is the ability to run with no GPU present in the system, but if you've got a spare 1060 that's not a necessity. 

Any board would work as long as it supports headless operation (assuming you didn't want to dedicate a GPU to it). Server boards do offer some extra features that can sometimes be really useful, IPMI and guaranteed headless operation are the big ones that comes to mind, but they're also usually double/triple the price of the consumer boards instead until boards are 5-7+ years old. If you can find a server oriented board for a good price, I'd err towards one of those for something like this, but don't spend too much to get one instead. 

Any board that fits the parats you need should work fine, but my fav boards for a am4 server are these. https://www.asrockrack.com/general/productdetail.asp?Model=X470D4U#Specifications
 
You get onboard graphics so you don't need a gpu, you get ipmi for remote power on, bios editing, and more, and they have version with 10gbe. There not that cheap, so if your building a basic server is probably way overkill.

I dont think its worth the hassle to try and flip it on Ebay. If you are desperate for money, sure. If not, local electronics recycler is what I would do.

the (obvious) first mention is looking out for a second hand HP EliteBook nearby, and account for a huge SSD, a RAM upgrade, and potentially a fresh battery.
 
past that.. any "not shyte" laptop will fit your needs, about 8 years ago (god i'm old...) i went into college with about the same requirements, and i used a samsung rc530 with some 500GB SSD, i didnt even have an extended battery for the thing back then.
 
there's sort of a balance to be had for college laptops between "more power" and "the battery lasts all day". i had my laptop's power profiles neutered the heck down so that even with a few years of use into the battery, it could still make about 6 hours of "totally paying attention" with just a dab of charging over lunchtime.
 
as for what to get new these days.. i'd look towards something "x360" (flip around touchscreen) with a numeric keypad, and ideally upgradeable RAM.. but most stuff comes out the box with 16 these days, which is enough IMO.
 
my current do-it-all laptop is a zenbook flip, if picking one for college work i'd stick to a fairly midrange model mostly for battery life considerations (also - if possible at all - 60Hz 1080p display, because battery life)

look at ltts how to buy a laptop guide.

Here's an example for the MSI B550 Tomahawk: https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/MAGB550TOMAHAWK.pdf
Page 23:
Connector | Default fan mode | Max. current | Max. power CPU_FAN1 | Auto mode | 2A | 24W PUMP_FAN1 | PWM mode | 3A | 36W SYS_FAN1~6 | DC mode | 1A | 12W  

pump pwm header usually has higher power output, 36w (12v by 3a)
compare to normal fan pwm header, 12w (12v by 1a)
 
check yer mobo manual too

Use the cpu_fan. That way the fans *should* ramp up down based on cpu temp. 
 
pump_fan header always pushes 100% I believe and is more so used for custom liquid cooling setups. 
 
I could be wrong but this is from remembrancez

Have you tried updating BIOS ?
There's even some B550 that are shipped without Ryzen5000 compatible BIOS still to this day (very old stock).

Based on MSI page for that motherboard, you need atleast this version of BIOS
https://www.msi.com/Motherboard/B450-TOMAHAWK-MAX/support

Next time, give the cooler a gentle twisting motion back and forth before pulling it up.
 
What is dangerous is what happened to me on AM3 (or AM2 not sure) when the CPU is stuck and you pull it out only to have it fall off and damage pins. I managed to fix them but I was sweating lol.

Whew! Thank you so much. I just had a small heart attack.

Well...
Either you :
Use Type-E to 9pin USB2 adapter for the Type-C & then use the TypeA USB3 front I/O as USB3.
or
Use Type-E to 19/20pins USB3 adapter for the Type-C & then use USB3 to USB2 adapter for the front I/O Type A.

I assume you mean the original aka non-RGB version?   Did you check Newegg.com and Amazon.com sites?   They often have more than one seller so you have to check that too - although, the other sellers usually want a million dollars for the same item.
 
Why not pay a bit more for the RGB version?   Not for the RGB but some ppl claim the RGB fans from Arctic are even better than their non-rgb fans - not sure about that but I think I read that somewhere.   
 
I don't know if Microcenter sells that AIO cooler but it might be worth checking there, too?   

checkout p500a too
 
EDIT: you can place freezer 360 on top as well
https://www.reddit.com/r/Phanteks/comments/kgakzp/p500a_rookie_build/
 

so much cheaper with similar build quality and airflow

Yeah this one is not the best Phanteks case, but it's the cheaper one too..
Newer and bigger ones are better suited for big AIOs and are easier to build into obviously
Both cases you're looking at are nice, then it's more of a personal taste about the one you prefer
You may look at the Lian Li Lancool III, it's kinda same tier/price and pretty good too