DriedSponge

5 minutes ago, C2dan88 said:

Still disconnect the drive, while you install linux. That way you can be safe you do not accidentally erase windows and more importantly both os has their own boot partition/loader.

Good to know. I appreciate the advice. Thank you!

1 minute ago, C2dan88 said:

Install windows first, then disconnect you windows drive while you install linux.

Thanks for the tips! What if I already have Windows installed?

Just now, Electronics Wizardy said:

What filesystem is the drive? NTFS should be ok on linux and good on windows. ExFAT also works on both.

 

 

The HDD uses NTFS. I would prefer not to change it only because there's already a lot of files stored there that I would need to back up.

Hi there,

I have been considering switching to dual booting Linux & Windows on my desktop. I was wondering if there is anything important I should know before going through with this. I plan on using full drives for each OS. Here is my planned setup:

• 2TB NVME SSD for windows (mostly because games take up so much space)
• 1TB SSD for Linux 
• 2TB HDD That can be shared between the two.

All of those drives above are connected via SATA with the NVME drive being the exception. My largest concern would be the shared HDD between the two. Will I still be able to access data on both operating systems without the need of reformatting? In addition, would I have to worry about windows screwing with my connected Linux SSD?

To provide more context, I planned on using either Fedora or Ubuntu with either KDE or LXQT. I am not new to Linux because I use it all the time when working with my home server, however this will be my first time using it in a desktop context. If you have another suggested distro for this type of setup, please let me know. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

20 hours ago, LIGISTX said:

RAM speed on a home server likely would never be noticable... so that is definitely not the issue.

 

I would potentially run some memory tests like memtest or something similar. Make sure the sticks are all good, and potentially update BIOS.

I ran memtest86 on the two new sticks today and found no issues. I might just return the two modules back to amazon and stick with 64gb at 3200 speed only because I don't really need 128gb (I was just future proofing) and this issue has taken up way too much of my time. Thanks for the help!

1 minute ago, Shimejii said:

That is the ryzen code names Picasso = 2nd Gen Ryzen Apus, Matisse =  3rd Gen ryzen aka what you are using, Renoir = 4000 Series mobile, Vermeer = 4th Gen ryzen (5000 series)

That's good information to know, thank you. I would assume that even running at a speed of 2666, the system should still be stable? It seems weird to me that a drop from 3200 to 2666 would cause such a disruption on my server.

9 minutes ago, Shimejii said:

This has been a thing for nearly a decade at this point. 4 Dimms on a consumer platform do not run at higher speeds then usually a little over the minimum spec and pretty much never have . It even says on the sheet 2666 max frequency. Not sure what you are misunderstanding about the graph.

 

SR = Single Rank Dimm. DR = Dual Rank Dimm. 

 

Generally 2 Dimms (2x32) is the way to go if you want speed, and 4x32 if you need capacity. You do not get to have both speed and capacity at that point.

Yeah that's what I figured, thanks for clarifying. I'm more confused about the terms at the top of the chart (Picasso, Matisse, Renoir, Vermeer), I'm not sure what they mean and which one my build falls under.

Hi there,

I was playing Apex Legends today, and then all of the sudden my monitors went black and my audio completely cut out. I checked on my PC and everything looked physically fine. Everything was still powered, including the GPU. I tried rebooting my PC but now I am just presented with a red CPU light on my MSI motherboard. Are there any trouble shooting tips people would recommend to maybe fix this?

Here is what I've tried so far:
- Restarting my pc
- Unplugging the PSU and plugging it back in
- Removing the CMOS battery and putting it back in

I have yet to try to re-seat the cpu because I do not have enough time (my AIO is incredibly annoying to take off my cpu), so I will try that tomorrow. I will also re-apply the thermal paste just in case.

If my CPU is dead, it would be incredibly annoying because I just got my PC up and running again after going through a 3 week RMA process with Arctic to get a replacement AIO (the new AIO they sent me does work).

The CPU I have is a Ryzen 5950x and I'm running on a MSI B450 Tommahawk. I would like to mention that things were running just fine months ago, and even for a several days after I installed the replacement AIO from Arctic.

If you have any questions for me please let me know, and thanks in advance for your help!

6 hours ago, Sil3nt1 said:

HWmonitor check pump speed

Can't access HW monitor because my system crashes before it fully posts.

7 minutes ago, Agall said:

Thermalright PA or NH-D15. I'm quite the function > form type and have stopped using AIOs for that reason. The extra variables of a pump and liquid system (yes I know heatpipes are liquid systems just smoller) can cause problems, as we've seemed to conclude here. Having an air cooler laying around is a good idea in general if you have an AIO, though I'm the type to have enough spare parts to build 3-4 rigs with at all times.

 

Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 CPU Air Cooler, 6 Heat Pipes, Dual 120mm TL-C12 PWM Fan, Aluminium Heatsink Cover, AGHP Technology, for AMD AM4 AM5/Intel LGA 1700/1150/1151/1200/2011/2066 (PA120) - Newegg.com

 

Snazzy thing to have around, will cool a 5950x perfectly fine.

 

Forums crashed for me.

Thanks for the tips! I actually did have an air cooler laying around but I just put it into my server so now it is in use. I will look into the coolers you suggested. Do the air coolers perform the same, better, or worse compared to AIOs in your experience?

1 minute ago, Agall said:

Looks like its time to buy a new cooler while you wait to RMA that one.

I think I will be alright without a new cooler while I wait for a RMA. I still have my laptop. If I did decide to get a new cooler, do you have any recommendations?

I should still be well within the warranty so I'm not too worried about this inconvenienc

1 minute ago, Agall said:

Have you checked the mounting pressure and thermal paste of the pump? See if you're getting enough contact and just unable to determine whether the pump is operating or not?

Yes I can confirm there is enough contact both visually and by the fact that the CPU block is incredibly hot. 

6 minutes ago, Agall said:

Being in the UEFI doesn't put much tax on a system, some people (ballsier types) will boot into UEFI without a heatsink momentarily. Having some thermal mass at least on the CPU is far far far less risky than that however.

Yeah I am having no luck with it. I'm for two seconds and it pops up with an alert then shuts down.

3 minutes ago, Agall said:

I would validate whatever header its plugged into works with another device, like a fan. If that works, then the AIO. Another thing you should do for PWM controlled 'CPU fan' header pumps is manually configure the UEFI to have it run at a higher RPM. A normal fan curve can sometime not be enough speed for an AIO pump and not every motherboard detects it as an AIO pump to correct for that. The UEFI should also report an RPM for that device, so if its 0 RPM constantly, then there's a software indication that its dead.

Ok I will give it a shot, but just to let you know, my AIO fans already ramp up to full speed after booting and I'm not sure I can stay in the bios long enough to check everything out.

2 minutes ago, DarkAgent said:

The time you had it is sorta moot I've had one go in like a year 1/2. Depends on few main factors. How how you push your machine, how good your cases cooling solution is, and how generally hot your ambient temperatures are. 

Most times it will generally just halt your system and shut it down due to the motherboards internal thermal protection system. 

The best way to check is just remove the pump entirely & switch to a normal fan based cooling solution and try rebooting after your done switching them out.

If that fixed the problem then it's def your AIO. 

I would love to try that but unfortunately I do not have a spare air cooler to try it out with. I'm confident it is the aio though because the temperature in my room is not very high. Only around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. I also have a pretty solid airflow configuration in my case. Also I feel like I should feel warm air exiting my radiator from cooling the cpu, but I don't.

3 minutes ago, Agall said:

Tracking it down on the internet is difficult, but from what I can tell, that AIO design has two cables. That might be the RGB version only though.

 

 

Yes one is for the RGB. I don't use the RGB so I don't have it plugged in.

I have been using the CPU fan header on my motherboard for it. I did try a different fan header but it did not work.

3 minutes ago, Agall said:

Does it use SATA power to power the pump? If any, I'd check the connections going to it to validate one isn't loose or using a busted connector. A lot of those AIOs have a 3/4pin header for sensing, but then a SATA power connection for power. Very few use straight PWM from the motherboard 4 pin header.

From what I can see, it only connects to a 4pin header, at least that is how I have been connecting it. Now that you mention it, I did actually change out my power supply a few days ago so maybe there is something I forgot. It was working for a few days though after I changed my power supply.

Just now, Agall said:

You should be able to hear or feel the change in flow when doing so, especially if the pump is operating at a decent RPM.

I can't hear any of that unfortunately. I will have to see if I can get a replacement from the manufacturer. I have not even had this thing a full year.

4 minutes ago, Hinjima said:

Touch the tubes coming out of the pump. If they are not warm to the touch while the CPU is getting hot, the water is not circulating meaning in a dead pump or a clogged loop.

I don't feel anything, I think it is dead. This sucks.

1 minute ago, Agall said:

Can you hear the pump go brrrrrrrrrrr?

 

You could otherwise slightly pinch a tube to see if you hear any change in flow or flow restrictions.

I cannot hear the pump go brrrr. Everything sounds normal, maybe I should listen closer. I could try the pinching technique.

Hi there,

Today I was using my PC and then all of the sudden it crashed. It kept crashing while I was trying to turn it back on. It took me a second to realize that my motherboard was telling me on my screen that my CPU was over heating. I have a Arctic Liquid Freezer II 360 cooling my CPU. The little fan on the part that connects to the cpu still spins, and so do all the radiator fans. My theory is that the pump may have failed, but how I can check for sure? I'm not sure what would have caused it to fail, I've only had it since December of 2022. The CPU I am trying to cool is a Ryzen 9 5950x. Any help is much appreciated!

Hi there,

I recently set up a new ASRock Rack X470D4U and I'm experiencing some issues with BMC management interface. They are not dire issues but it would be nice to get them fixed. Here are some examples of the issues I'm facing:

- Can't upload my own SSL certificates, I get an error.
- Can't install OS remotely or use remote media (correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you just click start media in the top right of the KVM window).
- The system inventory is empty.
- For some reason, after port forwarding on my network, and in the BMC, I cannot access the BMC management panel from an external network.

If anyone has any experience with any of these issues and has a solution please let me know. I'm running BMC version 3.02.00 and BIOS version 4.20. If you need any additional details let me know. Thanks!

3 minutes ago, SorryBella said:

That eliminates BIOS then, it needs 3.50 minimum.

 

For 2 stick operation, asrock recommends the RAM to be plugged in A1 and B1 slot, and Asrock recommends A1 to be filled first. So if you havent followed the former do so even though any configuration should work on a dual channel, but if you have test each RAM on the A1 slot before every other slot.

 

This is great to know. Thank you so much for your trouble shooting help!