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Oh interesting. Yeah I guess a Powered usb hub would give extra juice to the signal

Yeah 1 cable would be awesome. I'm just wondering how many xbox controllers a usb 3.0 can handle. It happens that I play up to 8 people at the same time.

You really want to have a 1ms screen. More than that and it'll be super blurry when moving around. Depending on what you like: TN Often fast response time (1ms), poor color, good contrast, cheap pricing VA Poor response time (4-5ms), good colors, great contrast, medium pricing IPS Ok response time (1-2ms, LG are 1ms, not many other brands are), great color, good contrast, pricey. I went with an IPS LG monitor because I love accurate colors and great response rate. That Gigabyte one is interesting. Not sure if you really need 165hz compare to 144hz if price is an issue. Also, if you're going for 144 and 165hz, why not look for 1440p?

Hi there, I often have friends over in my living room to play games on my PC. I have to bring my PC down from the office, which is just upstairs of the living room. I'm not sure if it's crazy or if there's a better way to do this, but I thought of crawling up a USB 3.0 Extension cable(which I don't have yet) in the ceiling, connecting it to my PC and to a Multiple USB port (that I already have) in the living room to plug our xbox controllers. I already have an extremely long HDMI cable that I could also fit in the ceiling hole from the TV to my PC. This way I won't have to bring my PC downstairs every gaming night. Any suggestions? Thanks

Thanks for letting me know about thr AWG cable and requiring 1 cable each port. I went ahead and got a 1000W power supply with 5th gen pcie cable and 1 in each 8 pins. Works great so far!

I was given the case with power supply from my oncle. It's indeed old. I only found 1 cable with it. I got the RTX 3080ti from someone and was given his power supply cable, which didn't fit mine. If I use this current cable, what will happen? Should I get new Power Supply in case?

Ohh that's specifically for Seasonic products. I'm not sure which brand the PCIe cable is, but it's written 18AWG. Do I really need a 16 AWG? If so, I guess i'll have to buy a new Power Supply since I can't seem to find a new cable.

That's interesting to know that there are ground pins even if they are filled or empty. How do you measure the cables to be 16 AWG? I've seen this online and thought I should probably get a 2nd PCIe cable since I'm currently using the last bottom picture one by splitting. Only thing is that I can't find a single cable compatible with my Antec power supply, so I'm wondering if I'm fine or I should change power supply.

Ah, not mixing cabels from different power supply is a good thing to know. Never though there would be differences. I have a Antec 850 w - High Current Gamer ATX12V/EPS12V. I had a friend that came by with his Corsair cable and it indeed not fit. It seems that all the bottom pins have a bevel on the bottom and won't accept the square ones. This power supply have 2x 12v connectors. I'm trying to find a single Antec PCIe cable, but there seems to not be any on Amazon. Only pack of multiple ones. Are there any other cable that are compatible or am I only restricted to Antec PCIe. If so, do I have to just buy a new Power Supply? Thanks a lot for the help!

Hi there, I've just bought an RTX 3080 TI from marketplace and the person gave me his power cable (top) that came with his power supply and I realized it doesn't fit with my power supply since there are different shapes. I used my old power cable for my GTX 1060 6GB, but there's 1 empty hole. I'm not sure what are the difference, but I'm kind of worried that the RTX 3080TI require all 8 holes to function correctly. Do I need to get a new Power Supply for the right pinned cable or why are there differences? Also, since my new GPU require 2x 8pins, I've also heard that you should use 1 power cable for each 8pins for even power. Is that true? Thank you.

Yeah, I wouldn't wish to go into Windows 11 either at such an early stage. I'm really not sure what's up with my task bar though.

I guess it's time to bite the bullet and upgrade to Windows 11. Haven't tried surround before. Would be neat to try one day. Not quite sure what your first question is, but there's 1 task bar for every screens, not just 1 stretch for the 3.

They each are connected with different cables to the GPU with Display ports. Monitor left(HP Compaq LA2405wg) center (LG Ultragear 27GL83A-B) right (not sure). I don't think the monitor's the issue since i've tested on a single TV and it did the same issue. GPU: GTX 1060 6GB Only the taskbar that blinks. The screen seems to be at the same state. I can open task manager, but I can't find Window Explorer booting up. I used to have a similar problem a couple years ago with Windows 8 where I could restart the Window Explorer exe and it would solve it, but now it doesn't show up in the Processes or Details in Task Manager. It seems to be mostly software than hardware.

Blinking.mp4 Hi, I'm not exactly sure what's going on, but it's been a couple of months that when ever I start my computer, the taskbar would be blinking from a couple of seconds to a couple of minutes. I recently tried to plug it on my TV with a different HDMI cable and it still blinked. I am really clueless of what cause this is from and would really like to have a hint on where to look for to solve this. My GPU is up to date and I have the latest windows 10 updates. Thank you.

I see. Alright well 3070 it is. Thanks for the help!

Ahahh, so Base/Boost/Memory Clock speed isn't what I should be looking at? I should check how much Cuda Cores it has. Also, thanks for pointing out GDDR5 vs GDDR6 differences, I wasn't aware. Thanks for the video, 3060 does show 2x more fps in every game, that's insane. I should really get a 3070 since it showed more closer to 144fps than the 3060. I'm still not fully sure why they show the Clock Speed if it doesn't matter for GPU. For RAM, you look at the DDR3/DDR4 and check the memory speed (depending on your mother board max). Processor you look at CPU speed and cores. But GPU you look at the GDDR6 and number of Cuda Cores only? I just don't want to buy an advertised 3060/3070 card that has fake specs and that would explain the lower prices, if that make sense. Thanks for all the help!

So basically my current GPU is still good enough and it would be more beneficial figuring out how to overclock my GPU with Afterburner? In some ways I would have better performance overclocking my 1060 compared to a non OC 3060? Are there any harm to the GPU if I overclock it and if not, do you have any great resources I could read/watch about how I could do so? Thanks for the great info!

Hi, I'm preparing myself to upgrade my EVGA GTX 1060 6GB SC (Single fan) to an RTX 3060 or 3070. Since prices are all over the place and not reliable, I'm trying to compare the specs to have a good idea of which one are actually an upgrade. I originally was only looking for higher vRAM, like 12GB of an RTX 3060, but I read that Base Speed is what matters for FPS and vRAM are for how bigger textures in game. I'm not really knowledgeable about what the Base/Boost/Memory Clock speed does, but I'm guessing the more the better. I'm also trying to compare Benchmarks to have an idea of an overall performance difference, but that's about it. I'm guessing 3 fans cards is better than 1 for better cooling and performance? I'm trying to find a good card that could run newest games at high/ultra graphics and could give me more fps (144). I have a 1440p 144hz monitor and right now, games runs at medium/high at ~60 fps (Monster Hunter World/New World). I also have a VR headset (Valve index), so it would help to have an upgrade. I've just heard that some AMD gpu aren't always supporting VR games/applications, so that's why I'm sticking to Nvidia (But I could be wrong). An example of a card I'd be interested is this RTX 3060. It's 660$ CAD, 12GB vRAN, 1837 MHz Core Clock and 15,000 MHZ Memory Clock. I'm just not sure what's the catch and if you would recommend something else instead. Any tips on understanding GPU specs would help! Thanks.

Ahhh, thanks a lot for confirming! I didn't thought about the server side upload speed and how having more download is mainly focused for multi user stability instead of funneled to one connection. I'm still wondering why I had faster speed with my old provider for certain sites. Would you know if internet provider matters? As if they had better connection than my current one or am I just hallucinating.

Hi, I've recently changed my internet provider because of a deal. I used to have 400mb/s download with Vidéotron but it used copper cable. Now that I'm with Bell, they announced 1GB download with Fiber. When I'm testing the speed on https://www.speedtest.net/ , I do get connected to the best server near me with 1ms at ~1GB download (physically located 5 minutes of me) so in theory it seems to be better. But something I've realized is that when I'm downloading files from Mega or Nopy (File hosting sites), the download speed is way slower than what I used to have with 400mb/s. I'm aware that it's /8 as it's actual megabytes instead of megabits, but I've just downloaded the newest version of Blender (183mb) file from Blender.org and it took 4 minutes. I'm suspecting that depending on which server I'm downloading will affect the ping, which won't give the 1GB advertised download speed, but is this normal? On Steam I did actually download my games pretty fast so I see that it does work... but why so many other sites are slower? I've also used fast.com in the past (But I'm not sure if it's reliable) and it did give me an accurate amount of 400mb/s before, but now it's ~40mb/s. The server is physically located in Montreal, which is 2 hours of where I live. Is this normal or should I contact Bell? They are covering all around Canada so I'm surprise of this issue. Thank you!

Specs looks pretty good. Not much choice to cut down. I'm not too familiar with Liquid Cooling on the CPU compared to fan, might be something to compare price? Your motherboard looks like it can hold m.2 drives. That 240gb WD SSD looks like it has similar price to 250gb M.2 drives. You won't need to get a sata cable either. Otherwise, that 3060 gpu recommands ~600W Power Supply, so perhaps looking at other types that could go lower than 800W but above 600W? You won't save much, but you could find surprises?

Oh wow thanks a lot for the info! I would of never thought about these rails. I thought the cage was standard, next time I should search the case first and go from there. Thanks!

I've actually successfully migrated twice from HDD to and SSD and HDD to m.2 (1st was to test on a work PC). I've listed the steps here: Apparently there aren't much difference in term of speed from SSD to M.2. Linus made a video about testing them here: But if you do want more storage: HDD - lot of space for cheap/slower SSD/M.2 - low space/costly I've personally bought a 8TB HDD because I was tired of struggling to uninstall games every time for more space or having to go through WinDirStat to remove big hidden files. Only install softwares and games that you'll use the most on SSD/m.2 for faster loading time. But after the above video, consider the price of getting an SSD or M.2, as there aren't much differences.

It's an Antec three hundred two ATX mid tower Case.

Games are gettings a lot more bigger these days. Warzone is 52GB (133GB with Modern Warfare), CSGO is 16GB and Valorant is 15GB. these are just 3 games and you've eaten 83GB already. If budget is an issue, I highly recommend getting HDD for games. You could start with the included 1TB and later buy and install more internal HDD. You should only install applications that you often use on your SSD, like Windows or most used softwares. Everything else that is heavy on the HDD. Later on when you'll have a bigger budget you could buy some SSD for faster running game, but for now focus on HDD.