SILENCEuk

seems the 12vhpw cable was to blame swapped it out for the ugly 4x 8pin adapter and touch wood its stable

So I just RMA’d my 4090 because every time I booted my system and loaded any video twitch YouTube etc It black screened my pc. Srore agreed after a the card was bad and sent me a new different card model (had a palit game rock 4090 oc now have an ASUS rog strix oc). I plug in and the issue happen immediately again when going to a YouTube video. I’ve already DDU’d the drivers before when trouble shooting. I have a 1500W Corsair power supply using their official 12vhpw cable. I’ve been using a a 4070 from another system in the system fine for a week. it’s driving my mad. Anything thoughts,

So this one has me stumped. I cant get updates for apps via the store (important for xbox app/gamepass). Unless I sign out of the store account each time, update then sign back in to keep gamepass happy. fixes tried win restore point pre issue powershell restore of the store Rig win 11 home 3700x 4090 x570 rog wifi gaming e 32 gb 3600mhz 1500 corsair psu Thoughts? or am i living with the faff till it annoys me enough to fresh install

weekend bump before i give up.

Currently I have my rig sitting with the side panel off to allow for two fans to point directly at the back plate of the 3090 to cool the vrm. Passive cooling isn’t enough when I turn the card over to mining Bitcoin in between gaming sessions. Currently this works fine giving the back extra airflow and cooling to keep the vrm from thermal throttling. I’m moving my rig into a planned 10 fan o11 dynamic xl in the next week or 2 and wanted some advice or ideas any one might have to keep this level if cooling up. I plan to have 6 intake fans (3 bottom and 3 on the front (which is also the side)) and 4 exhaust (1 rear 3 through a CLC radiator top) I've considered mounting the gpu vertically to make use of the 3 bottom fans but I’m now realising the pcie riser cable will block the area of the card most needing the direct airflow (directly behind the gpu/over the pcie slot). I’m looking for ideas or pci gen 4 risers that don’t restrict the bottom fans airflow or ways to mount up to another 3 fans in the case to direct air over the back plate directly. Without sacrificing too much aesthetic if possible.

Yeah it’s an extra £16 and I wasn’t running out of space using the 1 tb so to be fair 2 is overkill already even for £16 it’s just not worth it and would likely die again before I filled it lol (have a 1TB ssd and around 350gb in other ssds from years off adding them) my froogle brain kicked in but you nearly got amazon the extra out of me !!!

Perfect exactly the info I needed thank you again. will pick up a 2tb barracuda simply because it’s the same price as a wd blue and comes a day earlier from amazon. At £60 it can’t be horrible right ? Either way though thank you again for the speedy advice and reassurance.

This is actually very helpful thank you. so basically as my router and hub set up is limited to 100mbs the limitations of smr shouldn’t ever be an issue ? And sequential read writes and maybe a few games that spill over from the ssds would be absolutely fine? any advice on wd blue over a barracuda ?

So my reliable HDD is dying and I need to get a new one. I want to get a 2Tb 3.5inch drive but recalled the video about smr vs cmr and saw all the reviews online about the issues. so my question is will it matter to me ? I download around 20-30gb a day of video to watch. And sometimes double or triple this. This data is then often watched and the deleted within a day or two. would the issues around smr affect me? am very open to HDD recommendations if you have a reliable long lasting drive that’s 7200rpm and can take the daily use easily.

ok so likely the pcb then? drives fine ish but controllers dying?

Yep it fully disappears from device manager too. The same data power cable is powering an ssd that isn’t having any issues. And the power supply is basically brand new Corsair 750w modular icue intergraged thing. it is pretty old yeah it’s been in the pc for as long as I can remember but never had a single issue with it as my daily download content from websites I’m subscribed too. Watch then delete. Little confusing it’s showing as in good health if the read error rate being 100 is bad ? im going to need to buy a new drive then and hope it lives long enough to copy over from an external enclosure then ?

not sure what crystal does but shows this

is this of use?

So I decided to fresh install my windows yesterday and it’s all running fine apart from my HDD. It’s purely a media drive holds no system files etc and no games are run off it and is written to daily as I download most of my content consumption. Now the drive will randomly with no consistency or common cause become unfindable in file explorer. I’ve got the case open now and removing the sata power cable and plugging back in makes the drive appear again and work as if nothing happened. No need to restart or rescan for hardware changes. Simply removing the sata connection alone doesn’t fix the issue it has to be the power cable. This only started post fresh windows install with zero issues or hints of issues before hand. Any ideas ? I’m not an expert but I’d imagine if the drive was failing I’d be getting poor performance and lost data and be unable to revive it from the disappearing state? The drive is a 1TB Hitachi with the code HDT721010SLA360 with drivers provided by Microsoft nothing custom going on. 10.0.19041.1 from 21/06/2006.

Been looking for a while and it seems readily available in the US now but does any one know a place in the UK or even the EU that stocks the case? Or even just the lcd glass panel ? Could just pick up a regular i510 nzxt and add the panel if need be.

Huh so both sides of my mind there hmmmm

So I’ve finally decided I need to go for a new cpu. My 2600k I7 ocd to 4.5ghz seems to be a little long in the tooth now. and seems to be bottlenecking my gtx 1080 In some cases. I'm fairly set on on the following. ASUS ROG Strix X570-F Gaming ATX Motherboard CORSAIR VENGEANCE RGB PRO 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3600 So my question is as someone who only games. I don’t make content or stream (though I might want to stream in the future but won’t ever be a content producer level of video editing etc) is a ryzen 7 3700x worth the extra £80($100) over the ryzen 3600x? and if I went for the 5 rather than the 7 would I get a noticeable bump to my games and system speed over my 2600k? or am I completely wrong and should be looking at something else entirely ?

So no real need to upgrade either and revisit when 3000 series come

Thank you for another point of view. Yes i play from my bed not at a desk and dont play competitive shooters on PC so will only ever be gaming at max 60fps which is fine for my needs and set up (lap board/game pad gaming) I guess my needs are i want everything turned up to full and in 4k HDR running at a stable 60fps. will my CPU be affecting this on a game like Gears 5?

always wondered is it worth spending nearly as much as the CPU again on the MB? i'm not massivly into OC'ing and only ahve my OC at the moment because my MB was able to do it by its self automatically. Ram wise i'm looking at Corsair CMK16GX4M2B3200C16 Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4 3200 MHz C16 XMP 2.0 High Performance Desktop Memory Kit, Black, i have vengeance blue at the moment so sticking with a trusted brand is nice. I know its never the "perfect" time to upgrade but how likely do you ( and any one else) think i'm going to get buyers remorse if pull the trigger this year? and as you didnt even hesitate or mention going for an RTX i'm presuming youd suggest waiting for maybe the 2100's (or what ever they get called) before bothering looking for ray tracing over my 1080? Big Thank you again though for a starting point

So I'm looking for the opinions of my betters and more nose to the ground fellows i know must dwell here. I use my PC for gaming and watching streams etc so have no use for any photoshop or editing etc. Current system info thats relevent 2600k I7 OC'd at 4.5 ghz (cooleld by notua nh15) 16gb Ram GTX 1080 Display is 4k UHD Samsung Smart TV so is it time to finally give up on my 2600k? i want to start thinking about an RTX card and have never gone AMD for CPU in the past. But whats the consensus in the community? should i put the money into a new MB CPU and RAM (then is it AMDs new offering or trusty Intel) or can i hold off for the next gen Intel and AMD offerings and go for maybe a 2070 or 2080 GPU? have a modest budget of around £500-£700 pounds depending on what price to performance i can expect ( for example i would pay the extra for a 2080 over a 2070 if it gets me another year or more out of the card) I only have a very casual knowledge of the high end gaming computer scene so if I'm being dumb and should be waiting for the next line of RTX cards or Cpus please let me know this as well ( i can wait till Xmas/January sales etc) Big thank you in advance and please feel free to expand on anything i'm over looking