DudeWhatTheN

Yeah, I can understand buggy BIOSes, my current x670e TUF (yes I know I'm technically downgrading from x670e yo b650 but the gen 5 ssd and pcie slot are no use for me, even for futureproofing) has a terrible bios, when i turn it on sometimes it gets stuck on the boot or the dram led or it boots normally. Tried everything and it's a nightmare. Don't buy asus

Caught my eye since it was good looking, was at a decent price and is compatible with my current hardware, plus MSI is a trusted company for me so I'm pretty sure about buying it. Can anyone tell me if it's a stable motherboard, and can run EXPO with no POST problems? I had to replace my old motherboard for this.

My botherboard (when it successfully posts) cycles trough the dram, cpu, vga and boot light. When it comes to the boot light, my monitor eiter picks up the signal and shows me the ASUS TUF splash screen with the loading icon under, or waits for the boot light to light down and shows the windows login screen. Any suggestions on why it does this? Sometimes the boot light doesn't go away and there's no signal, for either igpu and dgpu. Asus TUF X670E PLUS Ryzen 7800X3D RTX 2070 GAMING Z MSI Corsair Vengeance RGB DDR5 6000Mhz 32GB

An X motherboard is usually used if you want more overclocking options and next gen pcie slots. If you don't plan on overclocking there's really no point in upgrading. Usually you upgrade your motherboard when changing cpu as well.

Intel 9000 series don't support Resizable bar, from what I've found in this reddit thread

Yeah that's the problem, the dram/boot light stay for more than 3 minutes...

Sometimes when booting i'm greeted with a solid dram light or a boot light. The boot drive (samsung 990 pro) is installed correctly, and the ram is supposed to be compatible since i saw a review saying it worked perfectly using my exact same specs for that ram. Asus X670E Plus (Bios version 1618) Corsair 32GB DDR5 6000Mhz (CMH32GX5M2B6000Z30K) Ryzen 7800X3D Masterwatt 750W (Semi-modular) RTX 2070 Gaming Z MSI The times the system boots though, it works perfectly fine and hasn't ever crashed.

In short terms, the 5800X3D will perform better in games because of the 3D V-Cache and the 5900X will perform better in programs because of the slightly higher base and boost clocks and more cores. It's up to you to decide which one is worth getting.

yup, I'm using the 7800x3d

Depends on how much you are willing to spend on it and what you're planning to do on your build.

Yes, you should be fine, as long as you don't have extremely power hungry components, but even then i doubt it would make a difference. As I said, my mobo has 2x 8 pin CPU headers and with just one plugged it works fine and is stable.

I've got an X670E-PLUS from Asus TUF, plugged in just one of the two 8 PIN cpu cables and it works great. What that extra 4 pin cable does is providing extra power for the cpu in case of overclocking, but as long as you don't plan on doing that then it's fine plugging just one.

Let's get this straight: if you want to spend 500$ and expect to run AAA games on HIGH smoothly, i think that's VERY optimistic. Most companies spend little to no time optimizing their game, take a look at The Last Of Us I PC port for example, with the minimum ram requirements being 16 gigs of ram. That said, if you plan on using the upgrade for the programs you listed, we can work that out. You have two options here: you either upgrade the cpu and motherboard, or the gpu. You can maybe get an extra 200 bucks if you sell your current cpu+ram+mobo combo. For 500 bucks I reccomend you get a 3070/3060 ti since you're on 1080p.

As long as it runs fine I guess you could keep it, but the fact the GPU burnt itself while on load means there were some big problems with the gpu (possibly voltage related) beforehand, unless you did some SERIOUS overclocking. If it's under warranty I'd reccomend getting another one, if not just keep your hands off Afterburner (maybe just increase the fan curve a bit to stay safe) and you should be fine

in that case, try restarting your router

if sfc /scannow fixes the issue temporarily it means it's a corrupt windows file that's causing the issue, at least it should be this way. Unless you're sure it's not a virus of some sort, I suggest doing a clean windows install and saving your important files on the cloud.

Well that's.... Very weird... Have you checked you don't have some sort of power saving software or antivirus running in the background? If not try doing a clean install of windows.

By the way, if the fans are plugged into the motherboard (which they probably are since there's no fan controller) you SHOULD be able to set the fan curve from the BIOS, but it's pretty weird they stil spin EVEN when the system is off.

What do you mean you don't have the fan controller anymore?... Did you get rid of it by any chance? Those things are pretty important for fan management.

Try turning off the pc, turning off the power supply and then pressing the on button once, this way you got rid of any leftover current. Now: unseat and reseat the ram, try switching the spots to see if it's the same two ram sticks that don't get detected or if it's the ram slot fault.

First of all: EXPO Certified means a RAM kit that is optimized to run with AMD processors and be more stable. By the way yes, this kit looks and performs well, i have the exact same one in my rig and runs wonders.

Try using another software besides the G.Skill one and let me know if it works. I'd suggest SignalRGB

Well, that's weird. What software are you using?

This can be because of various factors. First of all, check if you have a sufficient psu to power the gpu. I reccomend at least a 750W/850W Are you running other programs parallel to your games? Did you insert the GPU in the fastest PCIe slot on your Mobo? Or maybe, your CPU (please reply with your specs as well.) is bottlenecking your system. Also, you should probably DDU your drivers if you didn't do that before removing your old gpu. Chance is they're still running and you need to install the ones for your gpu.

First of all: AM5 processors' max ram speed is 6000Mhz, going past that causes system instability and unless you want to tinker with the voltage and timing settings, I'd suggest going with a 6000Mhz (EXPO certified, please) kit. Other suggestion: this varies from user to user, but most Asus mobo users (me included) have reported issues with posting and ram compatibility. This is because their BIOSes right now break some of the compatible rams and you'll need to change some things in the bios to get your system to boot reliably. I'll drop in my bios settings that I used to stop my system from not posting and the solid DRAM light on the mobo: EXPO I On FLCK Frequency +2000Mhz Memory Context Restore (in Memory Timings section) to True Memory Context Restore (in AMD CBS section) to true Set the PCIE slot gen from Auto to Gen 4 Obviously it's not guaranteed you'll have these problems but I'm dropping my settings just in case.