Netherspark

It tore immediately. The thing is utterly smooshed and shredded under the folds. Well, I guess I'm sending it back then.

I'm guessing the answer is no, but is this thermal pad salvageable? This was a "brand new" SSD heatsink I bought which arrived like this. It looks like I may be able to pull it back into shape but I'm not sure if it will survive in one piece.

I've got a weird problem with my USB hub. I have my wireless mouse and keyboard dongles plugged into the USB hub on my desktop, but whenever I plug in a USB storage device the mouse and keyboard start heavily lagging, or just stop working entirely. Removing the device immediately fixes the issue. Does anyone have an explanation as to why this is happening? Could it be a bandwidth issue, or is the hub just bad? This is the Orico hub: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09W4J3N8G/

I would just like to jump in here with this article from Igor's Lab regarding some Apaltek AIO's (which includes the Galahad and the recently recalled MSI Coreliquid): https://www.igorslab.de/en/flux-retentions-in-cheap-radiators-why-so-many-aio-compact-water-cooling-really-die-investigatively/ I've been experiencing the same overheating issue with my Galahad. Temps had been fine for about a year but then I started hitting 90-100c in games. After reseating the pump and trying everything else to no avail I turned the case on its side and ran the pump at max speed for a while and suddenly the temps are back to normal (for now). So I can only assume there was something clogging the microfins that got cleared. Just after this happened Igor posted his article about built-up flux in the Apaltek coolers, and this explains a great deal. I also remember hearing about Lian Li quietly recalling the first batch of Galahads before they went on sale. I suspect this is why. Did Lian Li make you destroy your old cooler before sending the replacement? I may have to RMA mine and I know other companies do this.

It's DDR4. G.Skill Trident Z 16GB 2400Mhz. I've found reports of other people with the same problem, even on totally different hardware and software. It's been suggested it's the PWM signal used to control the lighting. It's a super high pitch constantly alternating whine, and it only happens when an addressable effect is being displayed. Though it doesn't happen when displaying the default "rainbow" effect.

I have 100% confirmed it is the RAM.

Since last week my G.Skill Trident Z RAM has been producing audible coil whine, but only when my RGB control software is running. If I exit the app the whine stops. What could be causing this, and why would it suddenly start now?

Those older Seasonic Focus PSUs are known to have power issues, though usually only at very high loads. Seasonic have discontinued and replaced the series entirely. If you have a reason to RMA it they'll replace it with a new Focus GX model.

I have this case but I really doubt one of the big boy 3080's is going to realistically fit. Lengthwise, most will be fine as it can take up to 345mm long graphics cards. However Metallicgear don't give clearance numbers for thickness, only stating that it supports "2.9 slot" graphics cards. I have my doubts as I barely measure 5cm of clearance at the bottom of the case, and nearly all of the AIB cards are at least that thick. Anyone have experience fitting one of the chunky 3080s, like the ASUS Tuf?

I'm going to buy a new graphics card soon and am currently waiting for AMD's RDNA 2 "big navi" GPUs before choosing a card. The problem I have is that I own a G-Sync monitor. If I get an AMD graphics card, is it possible to run Freesync on my G-sync monitor?

I've just discovered that MSI actually make (or at least claim to make) a non-X Gaming Trio graphics card. Obviously the the "X" is the factory overclocked edition and the standard Gaming Trio is the base version, but I have honestly never seen or heard of one other than on MSI's own product page. Shops only ever seem to stock the Gaming X Trio.... Am I being stupid or can you not actually buy these cards?

Well that's good to know I wouldn't have to put up with full RPM all the time. I still don't see why they don't all just use PWM pumps though.

Maybe this is a dumb question, because I'd think the answer would be yes... but assuming your motherboard has a DC mode for your CPU/Pump headers, is it possible to control the speed of an AIO pump by varying the voltage in the BIOS or fan control app? It works with fans, right? So surely it would be the same for pumps. The reason I'm asking is that I'm interested in the new Lian Li AIO, but it only uses a 3-pin DC power connector and apparently runs at 3350 RPM, which is going to be way too loud for my liking.

I settled on buying the new EK-AIO 240 and instantly regretted it. This cooler has a list of problems a mile long, in fact there isn't a single aspect of mine that isn't fucked from the get go. Pump makes a loud buzzing and grinding noise. Pump and its lighting repeatedly cut out and restart below 50% speed. A standoff snapped when tightening one of the thumbscrews. Had to use pliers to remove the cheap plastic standoffs from the motherboard because you simply cannot grip and turn them by hand. Both fans grind and 'whistle' (coil whine?) RGB on the pump doesn't even illuminate the whole thing. You just get a circle of colour in the middle and almost nothing at the edges. It's safe to say I'm sending this back and demanding a refund. But the sheer amount of problems with this thing is ridiculous, I'm honestly confused by all the positive reviews it's getting. Has anyone else experienced some of these issues?

If the diagram is correct (and if I've read it correctly) it looks like both unfixable pins are VSS, which seems to be ground pins. So as long as the other bent pins aren't too far out of shape, this board should be fully functional and safe to use, right?