JaySDelta

Budget (including currency): Euro
Country: Portugal (Vila Nova de Gaia)
Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Gaming only (maybe some random research stuff on google). Warzone 2.0 will be te main game!
 
I already own most parts like keyboard, mouse, monitor (1440p at 170Hz - 32")
I need the tower itself 
 
The other problem is, I can´t buy stuff online, needs to be local stores. I have luck to be in a big city were the main stores are located so... keep in mind PCComponentes is Spain store, and doesn´t work well by shipping stuff to us.
I did some research on PCDiga for example, most sucessfull store but there are others ofc like Novoatalho and so... 
 
Someone gave me a example of a setup... wanna ur tips and suggestions on what he did wrong
 
- Case ATX Sharkoon RGB WAVE  - 79,90€
- PSU Gigabyte AORUS P850W 80 Plus Gold  - 119,90€
- CPU Processador AMD Ryzen 7 7700X 8-Core 4.5GHz c/ Turbo 5.4GHz 40MB  - 354€
- Cooler CPU Mars Gaming MCPU-XT ARGB  - 46,90€
- Motherboard Asus TUF Gaming B650M-Plus WiFi  - 220€
- RAM G.SKILL Flare X5 (AMD Expo) 32GB (2x16GB) DDR5-6000MHz CL32  - 140€
- GPU Sapphire RX 7900 XT Gaming 20GB GDDR6  - 909,90€
- SSD NVMe 2TB Gen4 (Its mine) 
 
Cost in this build +/- 1870,60€
 
Ofc I wanna it a little lower, but I guess I can´t go since I don´t wanna have less perfomance.
 
Ye I know about the 7800X3D but I don´t think I would benifit more, sure better low FPS but still, price difference is huge and Nvidia is overpriced.
 
Any suggesitons are welcome buddys
Sorry for my english

You don't need internet if you run it locally. Standard HD content should run fine on a 100 Mbps connection, but for 4k stuff gigabit is recommended. I've never had much luck with WiFi.
I think this still could partially be due to the much bigger and better screen you have now. When I went from my 43" Samsung to my 55" C9 all my "acceptable" low quality heavily compressed HD stuff suddenly looked a lot worse. I'm seeing multiple posts on the internet about the Series X UI looking blurry, so yeah  it might be the TV trying to upscale that and not doing the best job, but again any flaws here will be more pronounced on the bigger screen.
Make sure to put the TV on the "Game" mode in the picture settings. This will disable a lot of post-processing and should reduce the lag greatly.
Personally I feel the blacks make up for it, but to each their own of course.

How are you playing the content? Is it from a streaming service, or something local like a Plex server or just a plain external drive?

Set your color output to YCbCr 444
 
The dimming is from the ABL and ASBL most likely.
You cant really disable ABL, u can limit its occurrence by lowing OLED brightness to ~ 60% apparently.
ASBL can only be disabled in the service menu which requires a LG service remote (u can buy for cheap on amazon) or download the app compatible with a IR equipped device (like a phone with a IR blaster on it)
 
ABL = Automatic Brightness Limiter
ASBL = Automatic Static Brightness Limiter.
 
The ASBL is most commonly noticed when viewing static bright screens like when viewing a browser window when using a PC, this kicks in after about 60 seconds and can be very annoying. Thankful it can be disabled, but only in the service menu.
ABL however cant unless u reduce the overall brightness of the display so that when 60% or more the screen is displaying a bright image, it doesnt pass roughly 150nits.

The 10700 is mostly fine for playing at 165Hz at 1080.
 
AIO water cooling is worse at cooling than a traditional tower cooler. Unless you really like the look of water cooling there's no real point in doing it.
 
And that CPU and motherboard can't overclock and the 10700 boosts to 4.8GHz at stock anyways.

Very simply explained - neither of you are CPU bound, your CPUs aren't breaking a sweat.  Your GPUs however are both running at 100%, and because his is approx. 14% better than yours...well he will always beat you in this aspect. 
 
Until his IPC and frequency comes into play, and more cores come into play.  At that time you will still be building frame time to keep your GPU pegged and his CPU will be bound, in comparison.
 
By how much, depends entirely on the game, how its coded, etc.
 
 

He is using a AOC with 144Hz.
Im using a 60Hz.
 
Why? Does that makes diference? 

True true.
 
Now to be clear, I just wanted to make more sense of the history and ye well, maybe to clear my mind, both of us made good investment, in short therm he is better but in future Im better.... well hehe he had to choose that CPU because he had a case called (well something small, not the EVO version, something similar.... 
 
Anyways I´m happy but sad that he spended less and has better performance  anyways life is that haha!
 
THANK YOU for explaining me that ? 

Go for the EVGA micro ATX board most likely.
 
If you're leaving the side panel off of the case then you don't need the extra fans, don't worry about the extra 4 pin CPU connector.

And most likely just go for a 660p SSD, can also get a 500GB SSD with a 2 or 4TB hard drive and use SSD caching to kind of get a 2/4TB "SSD"
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/K6Jtt6/intel-660p-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-ssdpeknw010t801

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/tmF48d/evga-z370-micro-atx-micro-atx-lga1151-motherboard-121-ks-e375-kr
 

Doesn't really matter if the PSU is overkill assuming it's a good price for it.

You'd have to like start cutting hole for fans in the front of the case if you want to easily improve the airflow. Or just put 2 fans in the top mesh and it should be mostly fine.

If he doesn't mind leaving the side panel off that's just the cheapest solution.

I think Linus covers other SSD caching solutions here. There's a lot of software that you can use to do it. Some free, some not. It's even built into windows 10 as an option
 
Also you don't need a key to install or use windows 10, or you can get keys from ebay for $5.

The 660p is easily the best SSD for the money right now. looks like it has a better solution for keeping it fast when the driver is more full.
 
 

It's going to be something 80-100W under a gaming workload.

Just get a 240mm AIO, if your other powersupply is old you might as well replace it for the long run. And it looks like that case has tons of room for an ATX power supply.
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8mJtt6/corsair-h100x-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9060040-ww

That could have been a lot of things, it should only be like 15-20% slower than the 9900K, but that's still like 110fps vs like 120-130fps depending on the game being played. So the actual performance difference isn't going to be too huge. Do you still have that or did you sell it?

Probably just get a 9600KF and overclock it to 5-5.2ghz if you simply want the best gaming performance, just grab a 240mm AIO, or a large heatsink like the Scythe Fuma 2

The KF CPUs should overclock slightly better, they just don't have onboard graphics

Going to assume this board has a decent VRM.
 
PCPartPicker Part List: https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/Gq3TbX
CPU: Intel Core i5-9600KF 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor  (€234.61 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: Scythe FUMA 2 51.17 CFM CPU Cooler  (€52.90 @ Caseking)
Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX Z390-F GAMING ATX LGA1151 Motherboard  (€179.90 @ Caseking)
Total: €467.41

If you're every going to get into anything besides gaming, then the R5 3600 would make more sense. Although it's too bad cheaper B550 boards aren't out yet.

 

9600k will do, invest more in things that benefit your overclocking (otherwise it wont best Ryzen significantly)

You don't need 32GBs of RAM, and certainly not at 3800mhz.

And a Ryzen 5 3600 is easily the best value CPU out right now at ~200 EUR, and it's basically the i7 8700 for a lower price.

and I know you bought the GPU already, but the 350 EUR RX 5700 would have been perfectly fine for gaming at 1440p 60hz.

What's your total budget for the rest of the PC?