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Fans are always the first thing to fail it dose not matter how well you maintain the system. What is the Fan RPM and % Fan Speed when your GPU is at 100% load?

If you physically inspect the fans and heat sink; is there allot of dust? It sounds like the GPU fan is jammed up on dust, or it is failing outright.

The only real loss will be full PCIe 4.0 support (And the features that brings); but overall you probably would not notice much difference, if anything. I would recommend downloading the manual for that board as MSI is pretty good about showing what the PCIe lanes do depending on the generation you run in it. At a glance I don't see any issues, especially if you want out of box compatibility.

You can try the following: Resting the BIOS. (Since you upgraded the RAM the system could be trying to run the new RAM at unsupported or odd specifications a BIOS reset can fix that.) If you are running XMP, try turning it off. (XMP is still an overclock and can be unstable depending on system.) Verify you are not overheating. (The FX-8350 has a max temp of 61c, depending on XMP, RAM location, or CPU cooler it is possible you are overheating.)

Then you may have hit the hard limit of what your hardware can do. I am not well versed in overclocking, but you could try posing your question over in the general x58 discussion thread. Those guys know their stuff on working with x58 (Thread may say 2017 but I assure you it is active to this day).

Hi Arun, Welcome to the forums. When you upgraded RAM did you swap in new sticks or did you add to what you already had? Can we also get a run down of your entire systems specifications, including the specifications for each stick of RAM you are currently using?

So a fringe case and installing a BIOS someone else did the work on is still easy? Cool.

@Gegger X58 platform is a triple-channel design for RAM. @Muhammad Osama The number of channels you run should make little difference (as far as I know), but because most x58 CPU like the x5670 have a locked CPU multipliers; ram speed is generally tied to CPU overclock. Your RAMs supported speed or applied voltage could be the limiting factor depending on your setup.

In all honesty, I am surprised that more mobile chips are not offered for socketed desktop applications from conventional manufacturers. But then again that is a fringe case at best, and installing a hacked BIOS is not too hard.

I started typing something; then I realized I have better things to do than describe how a global market works.

Define erase, you can use a program like CCleaner to do a secure erase, all it dose is overwrite the entire media with garbage data over and over until it is technically nuked. (Someone who wants the data theoretically could pull it with allot of time and effort. But it is as clean as you are going to get the drive.) I like CCleaner because it has an easy to understand UI and good documentation on using its "Drive Wipe" feature. But as others have stated true secure erase is mechanical destruction.

I am doubtful there is a software solution. The motherboards 3.5mm jacks in most cases don't support that type of input. But you can get cheep adapters to make it work: Just go to your favorite online retailer ans search for "Headset Splitter".

Max temp is 98C; you are within safe temps. https://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-650/specifications

Additionally if we want dirt cheep searching for "PWM fan hub sata" yields something like this on Ebay:

Silverstone CPF04 https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=526&area=en The notched port is the RPM sense port. Great little hub I use it for all my case fans (has 8 ports).

GPU's can get very hot without issue, they also down clock as they overheat as a form of self protection. If you keep its temps slightly below the rated max temperature you will be fine and will not lose performance. 70c would be my goal for that card but lower can't hurt anything.

Good to hear, and you are most welcome. Make sure to only make one change at a time (add one hardware item back) as you test.

Not to rain on anyone's parade but... 100% modular cases are a niche. 3D printing your own parts is a niche. People willing to print out large parts are rare because: It takes a long time to print. Can fail multiple times from tolerances and shrinkage. Allot of pre-made generic semi-modular parts cost nothing and can be installed on standard cases with little modification. If this is a business venture I would not even bother. If this is for fun or for the community sounds good, go for it. My reasoning is PC enthusiasts will also need to be 3D printing enthusiast making it a statistical double niche, and the general public will look at the time commitment and not even try. Me personally I would start building a case out of extruded aluminum rail, and custom cut tempered glass before I would even bother 3D printing one. The finish and quality will be better for almost the same time commitment. Cost would be more but most people don't make custom cases to save money.

Hardware bans seem to be linked to HDD only; at least that is what Google tells me. But seriously tho:

I also have much doubt, 1.127V is probably an offset if anything.

Hi Jacob, Welcome to the forums. Have you pulled the SSD? It kind of sounds like it may have failed and since it interfaces directly to PCI-E it can easily hang the POST. Additionally have you tried pulling everything but the bare minimum to POST? I am unsure if you tested the system without the items you mentioned one at a time or all in one go.

This sounds like the issue is isolated to the GPU. And should have nothing to do with CPU. Reinstall your video drivers, and then verify that the GPU itself is not filled with dust and its fans are spinning. You can also use a program like MSI Afterburner to adjust the GPUs fan speeds to try and keep to cooler. If this still happens when the GPU gets to around 80c it is probably on its way out and you should look into replacing it soon. As 80c - 90c is within operating spec for this card.

Providing there is no software that changed; Silicon degradation perhaps? When you run high all core overclocks it can cause a form of "wear and tear" on the CPU, hindering its ability to continually hit those numbers over time. So the question is can you overclock at all anymore (at lower clocks), or is Ryzen Master stopping you from doing it at all? I would suggest reinstalling Ryzen Master, Chipset Drivers, and verify the BIOS settings are correct. As this sounds like a software issue.