rEkmAInc1csBnlM6C85H

No need to get personal, I have used a tiling manager in Windows for years. It's easy to understand for most people.
 
The problem is most Linux users, like you, like to show off your sense of non-existent superiority to everyone. It's actually kind of funny, but more sad.

Linux and all its distros are terrible operating systems, even Mac OS is better.
 

That's actually not all that hot...

If it turns out the fans are bad, see if your GPU is still covered under warranty. If so, you may want to RMA it. A fan shouldn't fail within 11 months in most use case scenarios unless you've got the computer outside or in a garage or poorly ventilated area. If it's not under warranty, many Visa and Mastercards offer warranty extensions on purchases made using them. Might be worth it to look into that.

If you physically inspect the fans and heat sink; is there allot of dust?
 
It sounds like the GPU fan is jammed up on dust, or it is failing outright.

Two words: "Cherry Picking".

I've seen some NUC type small PC's and AIO's with mobile chips in them, but unless you have some specific power draw requirements (which usually isn't a problem on desktop) the mobile and the desktop chip are one and the same.

Intel doesn't have hundreds of different production lines, it's all the same design. Just a small amount of chips come out 100% and working within the specified parameters. Most of the chips all have a defect of some sort. The cache isn't all there, several cores don't work, etc. etc. etc. What Intel does is just deactivate the parts of the chip that don't work and sell them as i3-something or i5-otherthing. So actually an i3 is just a defective i7. That's also why they have so many different types of chips, they're trying to use as much of the wafer as possible.
 
Mobile and server chips are chips which also have the same design but just fall into a different category of performance characteristics. That is all. Because they are cherry picked they are worth more, or at least you pay more for them. So it wouldn't make sense to use a mobile chip in a desktop because it would drive the cost without any benefits.

This all changes when you're desoldering working CPU's from defective laptop motherboards. Apparently it is a feasible business model. I'm not even sure you'd need to hack the BIOS as the firmware for all the CPU's is included in the UDK.

Thanks alot

@Andrew 1337 ok i will go and look

@Gegger X58 platform is a triple-channel design for RAM.
 
@Muhammad Osama The number of channels you run should make little difference (as far as I know), but because most x58 CPU like the x5670 have a locked CPU multipliers; ram speed is generally tied to CPU overclock. Your RAMs supported speed or applied voltage could be the limiting factor depending on your setup.

If you plan on keeping using it, but it has sensitive data, use an "erase" program on the entire drive. If you plan on using it, and it never had sensitive data, just do a quick format.
 
Change the recommended correct answer, as secure erase and "delete" are two different things.
 
I use Eraser for data destruction: https://eraser.heidi.ie/

Define erase, you can use a program like CCleaner to do a secure erase, all it dose is overwrite the entire media with garbage data over and over until it is technically nuked. (Someone who wants the data theoretically could pull it with allot of time and effort. But it is as clean as you are going to get the drive.)
 
I like CCleaner because it has an easy to understand UI and good documentation on using its "Drive Wipe" feature.
 
But as others have stated true secure erase is mechanical destruction.

Linux and all its distros are terrible operating systems, even Mac OS is better.
 

Additionally if we want dirt cheep searching for "PWM fan hub sata" yields something like this on Ebay:
 

Silverstone CPF04
https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=526&area=en
 
The notched port is the RPM sense port. Great little hub I use it for all my case fans (has 8 ports).

Not to rain on anyone's parade but...
100% modular cases are a niche. 3D printing your own parts is a niche. People willing to print out large parts are rare because: It takes a long time to print. Can fail multiple times from tolerances and shrinkage. Allot of pre-made generic semi-modular parts cost nothing and can be installed on standard cases with little modification. If this is a business venture I would not even bother. If this is for fun or for the community sounds good, go for it. My reasoning is PC enthusiasts will also need to be 3D printing enthusiast making it a statistical double niche, and the general public will look at the time commitment and not even try.
 
Me personally I would start building a case out of extruded aluminum rail, and custom cut tempered glass before I would even bother 3D printing one. The finish and quality will be better for almost the same time commitment. Cost would be more but most people don't make custom cases to save money.

No, Wattman should do it automatically unless you want silence up to a certain temperature. 80°C is getting toastie, 90°C is hot, most cards will survive 100°C+ but not for long. Is recommend having your fans kick up to 100% before 90°C.

I can confirm now that everything works after running it with nothing but the SSD. I'm not sure what may have caused the system to spit out one of my components. I'll be experimenting with the rest of the components from here on out but it's good news that the SSD is working and no data was corrupted. Thanks a lot for the help today.

This sounds like the issue is isolated to the GPU. And should have nothing to do with CPU.
 
Reinstall your video drivers, and then verify that the GPU itself is not filled with dust and its fans are spinning.
 
You can also use a program like MSI Afterburner to adjust the GPUs fan speeds to try and keep to cooler.
 
If this still happens when the GPU gets to around 80c it is probably on its way out and you should look into replacing it soon. As 80c - 90c is within operating spec for this card.

A rule all sports should have: The clock never stops, and no time outs ever.

My Aunt keeps getting different cell phones, and tablets from different brands, and with different cloud systems because Telus keeps up-selling here these obsolete pieces of e-waste.
 
It's the same thing every time...
Show up against my will because someone else volunteered me, and I want to be polite. She can't remember any passwords to access anything. Sleuth through no less than 3 random notes to get the right password. Export the contacts off the old device. Import to the new device. Have to explain for 1 hour that duplicate and incompatible contacts were removed and nothing was lost. And that a literal 1500 becoming 1200 is not a big deal. Get wrangled into having to fix a WIFI printer that she or her husband broke my configurations on for the 7th time. Get wrangled into having to fix her smart TV because Youtube is slow and blurry. Have to explain for 1 hour that having the slowest internet option available and 6 devices connected constantly at all time will cause this. (She will say something like "But it can't be the internet this is a TV") Get back into my car and drive home wondering why I do this, for free no less. Long story short I refuse to do this now and if anyone tries to volunteer me I laugh and tell them good luck.

Linux and all its distros are terrible operating systems, even Mac OS is better.
 

My only thought would be to verify that there is no overclock in the BIOS (As some auto OC profiles crank the voltage for no real reason), OR if you are using the fan headers on the motherboard verify that they are not set to a quiet/silent mode.
 
80°C is darn hot for a NH-D15, for reference I had to get my 3900X to pull 260W before my NH-D15 even passed 80°C.

Smaller yes, larger no (Anything larger will technically not be micro-ATX anymore).
 
In all honesty if you are doing a major upgrade like this you may be better off getting a new case; or an entire new pre-built system.

Ok, I only use AIDA64. That's why.

Hard to say, the only real thing that can go wrong is the capacitors, as they will wear out from age alone.
 
Your PSU is rated at 100,000 hours (mean time between failures).
 
Even if you kept the system on 24/7 you would only be looking at about 70,000 hours of up time for 8 years. So you could still consider the PSU usable.