Avocheeseado

17 hours ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

Just to point out, the ISP router is not "only acting as a switch", its very much the core router on your network.  The bit that connects to your ISP and translates traffic between your network and the Internet.

 

WiFi is effectively a virtual switch, while your router will also have a physical switch for the ethernet ports.  Router, WiFi, Ethernet Switch are all completely independent things that happen to be combined in a single unit.

 

 So naturally you can add external devices that take over some of what its doing, like the WiFi, or adding extra switches.

Yes thanks for the clarification, I didn't explain that very well. It's doing everything other than acting as a WAP

2 hours ago, Alex Atkin UK said:

If possible I'd try plugging a wired device that has a Gigabit port into the cable the disc is plugged into, just to confirm the cable is working okay.  Being limited to just under 100Mbit is usually a cable/port issue causing a 100Mbit link instead of Gigabit.

Just tried this and got the same 90 ish speeds connected directly to the ISPs router. All our cables are cat 5e so I have just tried using a Cat 8 we have lying around and I'm now getting 200! Looks like the cables were the issue and the BT whole home mesh is running at 200mbps now. I will have to order some new ethernet cables to replace our old ones. Thanks for everyone's help

36 minutes ago, Falcon1986 said:

@Avocheeseado

 

So is this layout correct?

 

SPNMX55 -> PowerLine -> BT Mesh node

Yes this is correct, the Powerline and BT mesh node are connected to the ethernet ports of the SPNMX55

3 hours ago, Falcon1986 said:

What would be very helpful is a network diagram with make/model labels for all relevant hardware and how they're interconnected.

 

PL can be blamed for a lot of speed and latency issues. It's one piece of network technology that is plagued with problems. If you're using them, I assume you would have accepted these limitations.

 

So you have 2 routers connected to each other? This is the setup that your ISP put in your home?

 

Are these speed tests performed while connecting over WiFi? How far are you from the mesh node? My memory of house construction in the UK is that even internal walls are made of thick, solid brick. If the WiFi going through walls/floors when you're doing these speed tests?

Not sure I have the skills to make a diagram but I'll try and explain it a bit better..

Our ISP provided a Linksys SPNMX55 Router. I have connected to this the main node of the BT Whole Home Wifi AC2600 mesh system - there are two other nodes around the house. So yes, essentially two routers connected to each other - the one provided by the ISP is only acting as a switch really, while the BT mesh system has been the wireless network we connect to.

This system with out previous ISP along with the powerline has worked perfectly fine, although this was not FTTP and we were only paying for 70mbps.

I have done these speed tests right next to both routers so not going through any walls.

19 hours ago, Lurick said:

The powerline is DEFINITELY a problem, I would bet money that you have something that advertised something like 500 to 600Mbps but they only put 10/100Mbps ports on those so you'll never get more than that.

Yes, after doing some more research it looks like the ethernet port on the powerline adapters we have are 10/100mbps. These powerline adapters appear to have a gigabit port so might solve the problem? Although, yes I am aware of all the issues with powerline - I've heard MoCA is much better but also quite expensive.

Hi there! I recently had FTTP installed at my house and opted for the 200mbps package for both upload and download speeds. When I'm standing next to the provided router, I get that target speed exactly. However, when I connect to our BT Whole Home Wifi mesh network, even though it's connected to the router via Cat 5e ethernet, I'm only getting around 90mbps. Not sure what is going on because this mesh system is supposed to handle speeds well above 200 mbps.

We also have a lot of devices connected using powerline, and they're also only getting around 90 mbps. Any ideas on what might be causing these slower speeds? Is it just the limits of powerline or the BT mesh system? 

Thanks 

20 hours ago, Levent said:

2017 Fabia IIRC is on same platform as Polo 6R/6C and being an owner of the said Polo, I can tell you your options are kind of limited when it comes to introducing another audio channel. 
 

Door speakers are riveted and are a relatively minor pain in the butt to remove, you can find drop in upgrades from couple of German vendors (or you could last time I checked). Subwoofer on the other hand is a major work; you can either T off FR and FL speakers into a crossover (This may not be the proper term, I am very tired) adapter then into an AMP then to sub. Another issue is Polo chassis of that era lacks proper 12v source in trunk, so that means running thick gauge wires from  battery through the firewall all the way to trunk (it can be done but it’s just whole lot of sweating). There is also the aftermarket or retrofitting higher trim radios that support subwoofer. There was a dynaudio addon subwoofer for some VWs that you can retrofit but I don’t remember what exactly it took, but it wasn’t cheap.

 

IIIRC, You can retrofit MK6/MK7 audio stuff too. If you can find them for cheap they are not bad.

 

 

THAT BEING SAID, (4 door speakers, 2 tweeters up front) speakers in my Polo are really good considering I have the poverty spec model. Maybe you need to tweak the settings?

Is there any ones you would recommend? I would ideally like to not have to install an amp, but it looks like I might have to

I am looking to upgrade the speakers in a 2017 Skoda Fabia - the standard ones are pretty awful despite it being a relatively new car. They are especially lacking in bass - which I have seen better performance in from a 2009 fiesta.

They support 6.5 inch coax speakers (I will just be upgrading the front ones). 

Budget is quite low - under £200 for speakers + an amp

I am looking for speakers with good, improved bass especially, as well as decent overall sound, although a sub is out of the question

Thanks for any help

Your parts list looks perfect

AMD recommend a 750W PSU for the 7900XTX so something like this would be plenty (unless you plan to do a lot of overclocking - if so there isn't really a way around paying $300 for an 1000w sfx)

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Efficiency-Included-Warranty/dp/B08LP6WS35/ref=sr_1_3?crid=6K1DM0NL8HJG&keywords=850w+sfx+psu&qid=1682267431&sprefix=85w+sfx+psu%2Caps%2C354&sr=8-3

you might also want more storage than that if you are planning on playing lots of games - go with a 2tb nvme

2 hours ago, Hyper_Alien said:

Yes the budget does include peripherals.

In that case, I agree with @SorryClaire suggestions. The peripherals are subjective so I would do some research or try a few out before making a decision on those.

17 minutes ago, Hyper_Alien said:

I just have those parts, and yes it is US and I’m willing to sell them!

Your 1650 super will sell for $100-130 (or closer to $200 if it is actually new). A new PSU is going to be ideal, your current one can sell for around $30, so your budget could be extended to £950 ish. Your storage looks good.

For that budget, I would recommend this:

https://pcpartpicker.com/list/K9Hswc

(the CPU cooler is not necessary but will make your PC a lot quieter.

edit: is the budget of $800 including peripherals?

8 minutes ago, BAlvez92 said:

Thanks for the answers so far!

 

I'm still leaning more towards Intel for the CPU department because of the reason I've stated in the first message. I don't know how more stable is AMD right now, but I don't want my system to restart randomly and I hope Intel solves that because I never had any of that kind of issues before with them. That's why I'm really considering the 13700KF, but I'm not so sure when the 14th gen is coming around and if I should wait for that.

 

About the GPU, the 4070Ti is not an option for me. The MSRP is about 800$ in the US, but where in Portugal I only see them going about 1100-1200€. I'm not shutting down the AMD side at all, but NVENC is really useful for me.

Assuming you sell your 3070, this 4070ti looks to be a more reasonable price, although I am not familiar with this website so not sure how reputable they are in portugal: https://www.pccomponentes.pt/inno3d-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-x3-12gb-gddr6x?utm_source=127079&utm_medium=afi&utm_campaign=pt.pcpartpicker.com&awc=20983_1682256393_e40544ac60cece7fcb401f0f25cc1daf&utm_term=deeplink&utm_content=

The only other option would be looking for a used 4070ti, or going for a 4070 which will offer some performance increase over your 3070. 

https://pt.pcpartpicker.com/list/z2nKfv

i7 has better gaming performance in most games than AMD

This RAM has a lower CAS latency

In terms of GPU, I would go with a 6800xt, or on the nvidia side, a 4070 (if nvenc is going to benefit your video editing)

On 4/14/2023 at 8:54 PM, RVRY said:

Here's my suggestion, go with the 5500 if your board is gen 3. 

Get a non XT RX 6700 if they are available in the UK.

Otherwise, buy a used 6750XT.

On 4/14/2023 at 8:33 PM, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Look at a used 6700xt or if you can find one cheap a used 6800

 

Cpu wise look at a 5500 or 5600 (prefer 5500 if price diff is >20$), you can problably resell your current cpu for 40-50$

On 4/14/2023 at 8:35 PM, Dedayog said:

6700xt for 360 would be my go to.  

Thanks for everyone's help! Despite the 6700xt having slightly better performance, I went for a 3060ti - won a founders edition for £300. This is about £20-30 cheaper than any 6700xt's were going for, and I will make use of DLSS (which appears to be much better than FSR in terms of quality) and some ray-tracing so this makes sense for me.

I will also order a 5600 to go with it.

14 minutes ago, tddk25 said:

If you are worried about PCIe version, go for the 5600 as the 5500 only supports PCIe 3.0.

I can find more 5600s actually in stock so I think that would be better. My motherboard only supports 3.0 anyway

14 minutes ago, Somerandomtechyboi said:

Look at a used 6700xt or if you can find one cheap a used 6800

 

Cpu wise look at a 5500 or 5600 (prefer 5500 if price diff is >20$), you can problably resell your current cpu for 40-50$

It looks like the only downside to the 5600 over the X version is the 200mhz lower clocks?

10 minutes ago, Dedayog said:

6700xt for 360 would be my go to.  

 

Used 6700xt's seem to go for just over £300 - I reckon that would be worth it

7 minutes ago, tddk25 said:

If I were you, I would be looking for some used AMD cards, as they currently have better price to performance over Nvidia.

Good idea, i will look at some AMD cards. The only concern is DLSS as this is something i find quite beneficial on my current 2060

If you are Ok with needing to upgrade motherboard, and RAM when you upgrade in the future, then this will save you some money now. https://dk.pcpartpicker.com/list/MH47tn

If you want to build a more 'futureproof' rig, then I would recommend this: https://dk.pcpartpicker.com/list/T4NMzf

Budget (including currency): £350 for gpu

Country: UK

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mostly gaming: Forza Horizon 5, Warzone, F1 22, Phasmophobia...

Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): 

This is my current rig: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/wC8Vxs

I will be playing at 1440p, aiming for 144 fps

I am planning on selling my RTX 2060 (will likely get £200 on ebay) and buying a used 3060ti or 3070. These go from about £320 and £380 respectively. Which one would you recommend?

Also considering my current CPU (r5 2600) do you think an upgrade to a 5600X would be worthy too?

Thanks for any help

Hi, I have setup an ESP32 board flashed with WLED and a 5m WS2812B led strip, however the led's do not appear to be lighting up. I am currently trying to run off USB.

I have tried using a 5v 10A psu connected to the two power injection wires from the LED which did nothing to solve the problem.

Here is a picture of my wiring:

VIN ----> 5V on led strip

GND ----> GND on led strip

D2 ----> Data on led strip

Any help would be really appreciated as I have been trying to get this up and running for weeks

3 minutes ago, Caroline said:

What kind of LEDs? 5050? if so then 8 amps is enough for that, 10 if you wanna play it safe or add a dimmer.

 

Just a clarification.

Brightness is controlled by voltage, if you supply say 3 volts instead of 5 the LEDs will be less bright but require more current (A) out of the PSU.

 

If you used a PSU that's too weak -say 1A- for such a strip it'd only flicker or never light up because it'd trip OCP in the power supply.

Thanks
https://amzn.eu/d/6HB3tCq

Im planning on hooking them up to an arduino board and installing wled. I will go with the 5V 10A psu then

For a 300LED 5m strip, a 5v 20A power supply is recommended. This seems like a lot - would driving these LEDs at 10A still work? Albeit slightly less bright

Thanks

Update: it is working with another reciever i have tried perfectly. Just not the one that i need it to work with!

15 hours ago, cmndr said:

Assuming the RCA cable isn't defective it should be the same as a proper "coax" cable other than that it won't be as well shielded. It's just a piece of wire with some rubber over it. Nothing special. 

Make sure your AVR is set up properly, if it's in PURE mode for example there's no sub output. 
You actually need to run the calibration software again. 

Yes, ive tried the cable which came today and the sub is still not producing any output… there are no obvious settings on the reciever