Aristotle2019

@Intergalacticbits I'm pretty sure they won't fit in my budget ? I know those, Lian Li is making those while InWin already has them. Can be Daisy chained. JayzTwoCents has used them a lot in his builds.

@paddy-stone @PopsicleHustler So connect 4 AiO fans in exhaust to same CPU fan header and 3 front intake fans to one system fan header and 1 exhaust rear fan to the other fan header ? Seem legit. Thanks for all your help !

So, the CPU has a 360 mm radiator AiO (Asus LC360) up top of the case (Nzxt h710) and additional 3 pwm noctua fans in the front and one more at the back, all 120mm. The motherboard is the Strix X570-E, the AiO pump connection is understood, how do I connect the 3fans of AiO rad and 4 other fans to the mobo? It has 2 chassis fan connectors and 1 CPU fan connected and one CPU_OPT fan connector. Also, do fans require separate connection for power and PWM control ? If yes,how to power them and enable PWM control ?

Hey, eGPU is not entirely that great an option. I recently heard in an LTT video thunderbolt 3 would merge in with USB 4. And I'm like - then why do we need TB3? Anyhow, to take full advantage of an external GPU, you will need to shell out at least 200$ for an eGPU enclosure, and even more to have additional USB ports or a larger power supply on it. https://www.windowscentral.com/best-egpu-enclosures?amp Check this list out. I would suggest him to opt for the Gigabyte Aorus RTX 2070 Gaming box for 650$ (other options don't include the graphics card, only the enclosure — so in that case the cost will be more ) . Add a decent 350$ monitor with high refresh rate and FreeSync support (since G-Sync is costly and now Nvidia GPUs support FreeSync monitors) and also because running back the graphics to the laptop will hurt performance by 20-25% while to an external monitor it will be 10-15% and you're looking at above 1000$ And the cheapest thunderbolt 3 laptops are no less than a 1000USD themselves https://thunderboltlaptop.com/cheapest-laptops-with-thunderbolt-3/ For a 1000$, you can make a PC that beats that setup. I would suggest him to get a 600$ range laptop right now. Possibly this one : 1) a below 500$ choice which can't be beaten : https://www.amazon.com/HP-Business-Quad-Core-i5-1035G1-Bluetooth/dp/B07ZV8LQSC/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=10th+gen+intel+laptop&qid=1575707409&sr=8-8 2) same goes here : https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Inspiron-14-Quad-Core-Bluetooth/dp/B081Q3DXD4/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=10th+gen+intel+laptop&qid=1575707438&sr=8-6 3) my personal choice, he can also game lightly with the Nvidia MX250 in it https://www.amazon.com/Acer-Display-i5-10210U-802-11ax-A515-54G-53H6/dp/B07XJRGKKD/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=10th+gen+intel+laptop&qid=1575707438&sr=8-5 After some time, he came save 700$ for a pc like this https://pcgamehaven.com/best-gaming-pc-build-for-under-700/ Or even 1000USD for this https://techbuyersguru.com/1000-gamingproductivity-pc-build which is completely bonkers and so frickin better than eGPU If you want, and he agrees to my idea, I can provide a more detailed PC build for him for 700-1000USD including monitor and peripherals (if needed) which will be better than the above two as I'll ration the money between different parts better as a setup and not just a PC build.

So did u do it ? @Leric

Yes Newegg takes price on taxes and shipping it's essentially almost the same with local prices if u have a local option with minor differences (with taxes and shipping included)

U can save more by opting for a non RGB AiO or a 240mm AiO instead of the 280mm I gave. You can also reduce storage to 512gb but M.2 only. U can also reduce RAM to 16GB (I only have 32GB because Star wars Jedi Fallen Order recommends it)

So u can go for CPU: Ryzen 7 3800X (3700X is not even adding to the cart for some reason) for 329.99 USD (3700X goes for 299 USD, if you can get it) Motherboard: Gigabyte X570 Aorus Elite for 169.99USD (the wifi version goes for 209 USD but the price difference is not justified, you can get a WiFi adapter for less than 20 dollars, even less than 10) Graphics Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Super Gaming OC (triple fan cooler) goes for 719.99 USD Storage: Samsung 970 EVO 1TB for 149.99 USD RAM: G.Skill TridentZ Neo 32GB (2×16GB) 3600MHz CL16 for 169.99USD Case : Phanteks P350X for 69.99USD Power Supply: Corsair RM750X 80+ Gold for 119.89 USD CPU cooler : here, you can either go with Corsair H115i RGB Platinum AiO 280mm liquid cooler for 139.99 USD OR a Noctua Chromax (so black colour) NH-U12S 120mm air cooler which would be as good but u wud need Arctic MX-4 thermal compound which together costs 69.95+9.99 USD in case of the air cooler u will need to buy two 120mm front case fans for intake and one 120mm is included for exhaust at the rear. For the AiO (all in one) two fans of the CPU cooler will do the work of intake so with AiO the price comes to 1879.12 USD and with air cooling 1831.79 USD (with fans and air cooler and thermal paste) Add 8 bucks for this WiFi adapter Or use ethernet if possible. I think this is AS GOOD as you can go. Nvlink - or SLI as it was called - is only an enthusiast thing, and for a low budget definitely can't be done. It's also slowly dying. So no need to invest more in an SLI enabled motherboard, I got u the cheapest X570 board available, it's still the new X570 chipset, so it's already too good and for that price why downgrade to similarly priced last-gen B450? I mean, a Ryzen 7 3800X and an RTX 2080 Super. I mean, DAMN. Alright now I see u need it under 1500USD . For 1733.95 USD u can get a RTX 2070 Super with three fans. For around 1660 USD u can get 2070 Super with two fans.

In that case, I've often heard Alienware doesn't give the best cooling. It really heats up, and "screams" just as the CyberPower review says too. I suggest you immediately look into a PC build guide - It will take a moment for any of the vast majority of members here at this forum to immediately suggest a full PC build plan for your budget, which you may specify or we can take the prices of those two PCs as the limit. The CyberPower review says that if you add a couple fans, it will increase cooling and reduce notice, so you can go down that way - it's ok, no one here recommends it I'm sure, but if you make a PC yourself, you'll learn a lot and installing new fans will be a breeze, which it will not be if you have never made a PC. You know what I'll immediately come up with a build in US dollars with Amazon prices.

I don't know how much wattage your AMD FX processor will draw, but I'm sure that no current single consumer CPU+ single consumer GPU system will need more than 650W, if you over clock or add SLI, no more than 1000W. And your specs aren't that high (these numbers are for an i9 and 2080Ti). So, yes 1300W is more than enough. Get that Phanteks power splitter.

Hey, nice to see a fellow Indian here. I would not suggest a dual triple monitor. The cost increases which is not suitable for having bezels in between. Even if they are thin. However, if your experience with them says you don't mind it, I wouldn't say anything. I would ask you to update me with prices on these monitors, as they are the same product from different companies. 1920×1080, VA, 144Hz, 1ms response time, FreeSync so perfect for a 5700XT. There are multiple sites like PrimeABGB, MD computers, Vedant computers for buying components. I'm going to provide links from MD computers and Newegg international. It appears u will be spending 64k INR for a dual setup or 96K INR for triple monitor, for either of them. I would suggest you buy Acer Aopen 27HC1R-P One comes for 19K, and the only difference is this has a 4 ms response time, and unless you're a competitive gamer whose life depends on it, it won't matter. You will have to pay 57K for the whole setup, which means you save up to 40K INR on monitors giving you money to upgrade other things (- you could potentially switch to an RTX 2070 Super or 2080 and now Freesync works with Nvidia GPUs too so that won't be a problem. ) Anyway, I would personally abstain from multiple monitors unless for productivity. Here's on option for 48K on sale - the LG 34UC79G (alternate link ) with FreeSync, 2560×1080 and 144Hz. And response time is 1 ms, and you're good to go for gaming as long as you're below 5ms. Here is a super ultrawide option I don't recommend.. Samsung LC49HG90DMUXEN 1.18 lakh INR Asus ROG Strix XG49VQ(for Newegg links u have to add them in cart to check taxes and shipping) 1.2 lakh INR These ain't bad !!! These are goood. Especially the one which costs 83k INR with shipping and taxes. Samsung CJ890DKN 92K INR Samsung C43J890 83K INR Acer EI491CR 92K So, I would suggest the Samsung C43J890 (it's a super ultrawide!)!! Or u want triple monitor, go with Acer 27HC1R-P. The LG34UC79G is not a bad option for *budget* ultrawide.

It shouldn't be a problem. I think G-Sync settings in the Nvidia control panel can be modified for one monitor or both or if u face trouble u can choose G-Sync for windowed mode in the G-Sync panel and max out the window size if you feel it isn't as immersive as full screen mode. I would suggest asking more expertise from @TVwazhere All the best!

Just out of curiosity, will a dual 120mm rad equipped RTX 2080Ti from EVGA - this one : https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-2589-KR OR A triple slot built in AiO 2080 Ti from Asus https://www.asus.com/Graphics-Cards/ROG-MATRIX-RTX2080TI-P11G-GAMING/ Will either of these cards (with the radiator of the Hybrid Kingpin card in the bottom rad mount?) fill in the triple PCIe slots of the Ncase M1 Rev 6? (Just out of curiosity)

Buy all components now on sale - saves money in expensive CPU and motherboards, except GPU and buy the new 5900XT/3080Ti when it comes out . For the meantime , use the 2070Super, or just a 2070 or maybe 2060 Super. Turn down the settings. Or use your older 1080 ultrawide for the meantime but buy the the super ultrawide on sale. And the games. Might be a while until u can take full advantage of a game. But patience is gold. This is what I would do.

This build is great! I would suggest you use an RTX 2070 or 2070 Super which I hope fits in that same price of the 5700XT.

Thanks for your help I will check out if Redmi has any sort of community forum or not

My dad has a Redmi Note 5 Pro and he wants me to transfer all photos from his phone to our home pc. However, when connecting it via ANY USB cable, his phone starts charging, but doesn't register it as a USB data transfer cable. The cable works fine with any other phone for transfering anything. His phone doesn't even show those options - for charging only, media transfer or photo transfer. He also faces some problems where when he reboots the phone it goes into MI fast boot which doesn't load into Android directly unless he holds the power button continuously during fast boot which in that case goes back into standard android boot. His phone is giving these problems. Can anyone provide any solution to this? These problems came after he got his phone serviced in the official MI store. He will change the phone within the next couple months or make it his secondary phone, but as of now, he needs some sort of solution and especially he needs to backup the photos.

Also, u can choose a B450 itx motherboard, it's unlikely u will overclock much, and the extra features of the X570 itx .. won't be that big of a deal apart from I guess thunderbolt 3. Plus B450 chipset runs cooler than X570 chipset, u can still overclock, PCIe Gen 3 and gen 4 are not a major difference right now in real world use, so..

Either works, but Ryzen benefits from dual channel memory so 2×8gb sticks is a better configuration.

I don't have any experience with the case, but These are the best case reviews out there . However,they don't do a silence test. I'm not sure if this does either but I would say that a heavy heatsink would do, but u cud invest in an average open loop with the moduvents on top, the side panel shifted to the back, a 360 rad up top and a 280 in front, with silent pressure optimized fans on top, rear, front, bottom too. And since this interferes with storage,u can probably get an external enclosure for your HDDs . Otherwise.. I think a Noctua NH-D15 would be the best solution and will provide amazing thermals, u will still need the moduvents on top because if u keep the side panel in the front for HDD storage behind it, air flow will be restricted in the front. And Ur GPU will also need air. This case feels like only water cooling can help it achieve the best silence possible. But I might be wrong. I'm embarrassed by my lack of help.

Here it is : Processor: Intel Core i9-9900K (not KS, you can over clock it to 5GHz on a 360 AiO but if you can't, it's not a big deal) Memory: G.Skill Trident Z 32GB (8GB×4) 3200MHz (Asus Aura RGB, not Royal, the price difference hurts, or 3600MHz, you can always over clock) Storage : Samsung 970 EVO M.2 NVMe SSD 1TB (not Pro, you don't need the minor enterprise difference for double the price) Graphics Card : ASUS ROG Strix RTX 2080 Super Advanced Gaming (triple fan, best heatsink on the market, factory over clocked, Asus Aura RGB, could not fit an RTX 2080 Ti in said budget) Power Supply : Asus ROG THOR 1200W 80+ Platinum (Asus Aura RGB, OLED screen to display power draw of system - I've chosen a very high end costly power supply because this will last longer than the entire system, will not be outdated when if 5 more generations of Intel's Core series comes, and will always be much more than sufficient for a dual top end graphics card build, even a workstation build, even a water cooled build - or even if you upgrade to a system of the same status as this one you're buying right now, but 5 years later) Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix Z390-E Gaming (includes all the features you need, including a front panel USB 3.1 Gen2 Type-C connector. Here, I cut corners and saved money instead of choosing an ROG Maximus XI board, mostly because by the time the system becomes outdated, you'll have to change the motherboard too along with the processor, and the extra features aren't useful in any scenario unless the price difference doesn't hurt or unless you're a crazy rich enthusiast) CPU Cooler : All-in-One Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML360R (I chose this instead of the Asus ROG Ryujin 360 because it's basically the same thing, and while the Ryujin has an OLED display, it's pretty gimmicky for the average user and the price difference hurts) Case: Cooler Master MasterCase H500M (it has a USB hub that supports RGB fans and strips, so the RGB pump header and the three 120mm RGB fans of the AiO cooler and the two 200mm RGB fans of the case can be connected and controlled via Cooler Master's MasterPlus+ software, while it also features a cutout for the power supply to show off the RGB there. It also has a front panel USB 3.1 Gen2 Type-C port, and you can choose between included mesh front panel or tempered glass front panel to choose between aesthetics or cooling - go with cooling - and the side is tempered glass. Has a non-RGB rear 140mm fan too. Set the front dual 200mm for intake, and top triple 120mm and rear 140mm fan for exhaust) The PSU, motherboard, GPU, and RAM will coordinate in Asus Aura Sync RGB, with the fans, AiO pump in MasterPlus+ coordination. This build comes just under 13000 ILS, at approximately 12364 ILS with shipping and estimated taxes. Peripherals are up to you : For a gaming mouse, you can literally choose anything from Corsair, Logitech, SteelSeries, Razer or CoolerMaster (then you can synchronize too) In Gaming Keyboards, choose a mechanical one, with RGB, from Corsair, Logitech, SteelSeries, Razer or CoolerMaster. There's a TKL version from each, a ten key less version, which lacks the number pad, hence making it an easier and more compact gaming experience. Any mouse pad works, cloth or rubber. Choose a larger sized one preferably. But keep the overall cost of peripherals under 500 ILS. For audio, you can opt for your standard in-ear earphones for now, but later, you could save, and choose a decent gaming headset from Logitech or Corsair or SteelSeries or Razer or CoolerMaster, or opt for an audiophile grade audio setup, or speakers, if that's your thing. Don't fall for gaming chairs ?? I will bring an update with suggested monitors within the next 24 hours. If you want the monitor to fit within 13K ILS, inform me, I will adjust the storage (reduce to smaller M.2 NVMe boot drive with Intel Optane cache+large HDD OR decently sided SATA SSD), memory (reduce speed to 3000MHz, down to 16GB) and PSU prices (choose a Corsair one like an RM850 or an RM1000 - which is as good, and as reliable as the currently chosen one, but without the OLED or RGB - I favoured that because I had to squeeze in your preferences)

I would also point out, sticking to Asus would cause a significant increase in price while better components can be sourced from other manufacturers at almost same prices. You can easily get RGB, but I'd suggest not choosing Asus for performance increase. But then again, since none of these are locally manufactured taxes are to be accounted for.

Does the budget include the monitor - if yes, standard 16:9, ultrawide 21:9 or super ultrawide 31:9 ? Peripherals included ? Also, do u prefer a full sized ATX build or a small form factor ITX build? And only gaming, or any sort of content creation? Also, the sites provided are in the Israeli language so I cudn't use those, I'm using Newegg Israel hopefully u can order from there or purchase the same products from the local sites . List coming in in a while

Oh okk.. Thanks

Huh?