Revanchist1ab

https://snlookup.com/acer-predator-g3-710-desktop-dg-b14aa-008-p7197 I plan on selling either this year or next. Gently-used. Originally purchased from Costco around late 2016. Complete with Acer Predator "gaming" mouse and keyboard. TL;DR: CPU: i7-6700 RAM: 32GB DDR4-2400 SSD: 256GB HDD: 1TB, 7200RPM GPU: GTX 1070 PSU: 500W Optical: DVD-Writer Detailed listing: Name: Acer Predator AG3-710-UC11 (DG.B14AA.008) UPC/EAN: 4713392809507 Model: AG5W2 (Performance Test 9.0): CPU: Brand: Intel Chip: Core i7-6700 Speed: 3.4 GHz Core: 4 (Quad) Motherboard: Chipset: B150 Form: Micro-ATX Network: 802.11ac Expansion: PCIe x1: 2 PCIe x16: 1 USB: 2.0: 2 3.0: 4 DIMM slots: 4 RAM: Brand: Kingston Amount: 32GB (4x8 GB) Gen: DDR4 Speed: 2400/PC4-19200 Timings: 17-17-17-39 SSD: Brand: SK Hynix SC308 Model#: HFS256G39TND-N210A Size: 256GB Form: M.2 2280 SATA: v3 DRAM: ? HDD: Brand: TOSHIBA Model#: DT01ACA100 Size: 1TB RPM: 7200 Cache: 32MB SATA: v3, 6.0Gb/s Form: 3.5" Video card: Brand: Nvidia GPU: GeForce GTX 1070 Manuf: PC Partner Memory: 8.192 GB GDDR5 Def.clock: 1506 MHz Boost clock: 1683 MHz Slot: PCIe x16 Power supply: Brand: LiteOn Model#: ps-7501-5 Size: 500W Optical drive: Brand: Hitachi-LG Model#: HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GHD0N

Thanks for the replies, but no; a 2080 Super is out of the question. Many of the talking heads on the Youtube state that the cost isn't worth the minor performance increase over the 2070 Super. Maybe, the Ampere GPU architecture will supposedly be debuted in August and in full at September's Computex. Honestly, then the only change to this post would be... "Is it worth the cost? 3070 vs. 3080Ti"

United States, East Coast

I have a conundrum. I'm still a long way off before I purchase these components (I won't be hired until the pandemic is over), but I'm still wavering between the cost and benefits of upgrading to a higher-end graphics card. Some background on my goals; I'm currently planning my next build which will be an upgrade from a prebuilt Acer Predator with an i7, GTX 1070, and 32 GB of RAM. My budget is below $1900. I'm not physically monetarily constrained, but psychologically. I really, really don't want to go past $18 or $19 hundred. Regarding gaming... I'm obsessive... not to the point of full OCD, but I am super agitated when I can't get the best version of something. I run a 144 Hz Acer Predator TN-panel that I run using the low-latency 120 Hz option and I primarily play FPS and action games. For sound, I use a pair of 2016 Astro A50s which make me want to murder those who talked me into buying them. TL;DR - Build Goals: $$$ = below $1900 Performance = Superior Games = FPS and Action My conundrum comes in that I can't decide whether to get a "tricked-out" 2070 SUPER system with superior storage and airflow, or a 2080 Ti system that I can upgrade, later on. 2070S system: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/kvpg4n 2080 Ti system: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/8vFZHB Side notes: I have already purchased a Gold+ 750 watt power supply. I'd like to keep the storage amount the same (i.e. 1 TB SSD, 2 TB physical). Case stays. I chose the board due to its high ranking on the LTT forum list and its decent price. I would not be willing to downgrade the board's chipset (570 to 470) as that would mean I'd need to spend more in upgrading in a few years. I am terribly addicted to getting the best performance. I get hives (jokingly) from choosing budget options, but I do take them if the argument is sound. Which is the crux of the issue: I can get sub-par components... but the frames... I want the frames...

@TheKDub Yep, that's in my list... its super round. But people still like it, I guess.

Heeeeeyo... so... there are a thousand results for "screwdriver" on the forums, but I'm gonna throw this up here anyways. If the mods strike me down... SO BE IT!!! The incumbent (and reigning champion of the Internet): SNAP-ON!!!! https://shop.snapon.com/product/SSDMR4BO ($69) Linus swears by it so you should too! I guess... They actually have 11 different colors. They last forever. They drive around a truck selling replacement parts like caps and bits... Whats not to love? Maybe the price? Cause ouch... Anyone have any suggestion for something that won't make me cry like a baby if I lose it? The big challenge is... that while there are numerous other ratcheting screwdrivers, none of them have the same shape! Their ALL round and fat! Well, most of them are. This is what I've found: (This one has issues with shoddy latches.) ($35 27) https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-77791-Ultra-Driver-26inOne/dp/B01J92O2NA/ (This one is round and lacks the "knurling" of the Snap-On.) ($45 24) https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-131CB-Multi-Ratcheting-Driver/dp/B005GPFTVY/ (Here's MegaPro's version if you like black and red better.) ($25) https://www.amazon.com/Megapro-211R2C36RD-13-Ratcheting-Driver/dp/B004VJY1EC/ (Here's Craftsman's. The big issue seems to be design. The cap is a revolver in that the top holds 7 chambers with one filled in to "lock." Seems a bit sketchy, imo.) https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Ratcheting-Magnetic-Screwdriver-Storage/dp/B005ZLX1XC/ (I like the idea behind this one, but I worry its just not long enough and it seems to have a mild tendency to break after a few months.) ($18) https://www.amazon.com/WORKPRO-Multi-Bit-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-Quick-load/dp/B0761K3H82/ (I wish I had more info on this one, but darn if the body doesn't look SUSPICIOUSLY similar to Snap-On's. It is unknown if the top is removable and I don't see many reviews on them.) ($38) https://www.amazon.com/Genius-Tools-Ratcheting-Screwdriver-SC-234A/dp/B01COXPAV4/ (Hmm... These guys... I am almost 100% certain this is a trash... but similar design makes it SUPER attractive. Also, made in Taiwan.) ($33) https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-KDT-82781-Piece-Ratcheting-GearDrive/dp/B0150914PK/ (Wera gets some good reviews. It's shape is a little off-putting personally, but someone had a good review. Wera is like a Lexus. Wera does everything you need and is wonderfully thought out. Snap-On... is a Ferrari. A Lexus cannot compare to a Ferrari and similarly, the Wera's ratcheting mechanism will never be as crisp as Snap-On's. In their word's, Snap-On "has the best ratcheting action any mortal has ever produced or experienced. It's magical." ...food for thought.) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004VMWYCU/ (William's is Snap-On's bargain brand which shares the same bottom and top cap as well as the bits... literally, pretty sure their made in the same plant... but whose body is not as nice and it lacks knurling for precision adjustment. EDIT: They also lack an o-ring on the end cap... It's a VERY SUPER HIGH-QUALITY o-ring... Must be if they didn't want to give this screwdriver one.) ($37) https://www.amazon.com/Williams-WRS-1-Magnetic-Ratcheting-Screwdriver/dp/B002NI1LZK/ (Snap-On bought these guys, Blue Point, and this particular model is the EXACT same as one made by the EU manufacturer Bahco, also owned by Snap-On. It was made in Taiwan.) ($34) https://www.amazon.com/Point-ratchet-driver-ratcheting-screwdriver/dp/B072L2PLKY/ (Unfortunately, they suffer from numerous manufacturing issues like a lot of play at the connection of the handle and the bit shaft.) For me personally, it comes down to: Grip - A rounded handle will never handle more precise or (if you talk to some repairmen) as quick to handle as an angled one. You simply can't generate enough torque. Knurling - This allows you to more easily make finer adjustments or as Linus stated years ago, it allows you to get a screw down much faster then just spinning the handle. Magnet strength - A number of cheaper options come with cheaper magnets. It'd be nice if the bit actually sticks inside, y'know? Build quality - You get what you pay for... usually. Teeth - This determines the amount of degrees you must spin your screwdriver in reverse, before spinning back to ratchet down the screw. (It's what makes the click when you turn the driver.) The more teeth, the less you have to spin each time and the easier it is to make finer, tighter adjustments. Ratcheting mechanism strength and quality - This is sorta overarching but its not something that you can easily look at as most screwdrivers don't allow you to easily disassemble them. This mechanism (which includes the teeth) is key to a good screwdriver. If there is one thing I say that does not matter to me... its rotating tops. I'm just not a big fan of it. With all the screwdrivers I've used, it just hasn't been comfortable enough for me. Here's the video from Linus with the screwdriver and the reason he likes it (it's set to the timestamp where he talks about it): (Yes, it's been 6 years and his taste's may have changed, but that doesn't mean I won't still throw him under the bus! :3) So what are your guys' thoughts? Any suggestions?

@KarathKasun Unfortunately, I haven't the foggiest of which specific settings I should change.

@mynameisjuan That's a lifesaver. Thank you. Welp... I found out what happened, but I can only speculate as to why. Setting up the router goes fine. You can change the password, disable wireless, yada yada yada, that works... BUT... I like playing with power. Basically, I wanted to nest the Netgear within the MikroTik. Use the MikroTik as the manager (no wireless) and the Netgear for all wireless and less important connections. Everything is fine until I plug the Netgear into the MikroTik. Everything works, connections are super fine, but the administrative UI is completely disabled by the Netgear. THAT is why I needed to reset. The Netgear knocked out the MikroTik's control abilities. They still exist, but you can't reach them (devices connected to the MikroTik can still see the Internet as well as those connected to the Netgear). Any ideas? Can the Netgear's lust for blood be constrained?

@mynameisjuan Weeelllll.... litterally scratch everything... its been bricked. I was playing around with all 3 routers... not changing configs, just cords, and now the Mikrotik is a brick. It lights up, looks like its taking in data and getting signals from both the AT&T router AND the computer, but the computer can't connect to it to save its life. I've tried resetting the thing, but the instructions on resetting seem to be from another device as it talks about manually powering on, when router doesn't have a power button. I've held down the button in a many different ways but nothing changes. I cannot reach the admin screen from the computer. Every time I try (with Explorer, Firefox, and Chrome) it times out. Any thoughts?

@moriel5 @mynameisjuan Just to conclude this topic, I plugged in a new router, did some testing back and forth and I'm sure its this computer. I haven't a clue why my connection is so slow as I had it up to 900 ages ago, but it is what it is. Current connection is running at 650 down max, 425 down average with 360 up. Disabling both antivirus suites and firewalls nets a negligible bandwidth increase. Network test uses about 50% of the CPU. Who knows. Maybe its all the cheap components as this IS a manufacturer pre-built.

@mynameisjuan I almost cried when I opened Mikrotik's UI. Simple and configurable, without the 10,000 different pages and sections like in the Netgear UI. Sadly, gave me no increase in network connection, but I doubt it was ever the router... still... what a breath of fresh air. Thank you.

@KarathKasun It's a Realtek PCIe NIC on an Acer Predator pre-built circuit board. https://snlookup.com/acer-predator-g3-710-desktop-dg-b14aa-008-p7197#ffs-tabbed-16 I have about as much faith in it as I do a bridge in the woods made by a middle-school youth group. I'm at the point where I'm going to stop caring soon as I doubt there's anything that can be done beyond replacing both the router (new one comes in two days) and the PC (gonna be swapped out in a year... if I can find a job).

@mynameisjuan My deepest apologies. I only meant that for my home needs, the speed of wireless connections were not a priority. Thank you for the information. Understanding routing hardware is a weak point of mine, and the knowledge was greatly appreciated. I'll try the MikroTik as soon as I'm able. For the price, it's certainly worth a try. Lastly, if you do indeed have your CCNP, you have my endless respect. I took the class on that cert myself and after passing, with no right to, I respect all who are able to claim that cert. I still have nightmares of that textbook.

@mynameisjuan

@Streetguru I have a Netgear Nighthawk X6S... It is triband and I want to bash the designers in the head with it... softly of course. The video is nice, but as I said, my issue is traffic management. I DO NOT care for wireless speed or quality. Are you saying, I should invest in a mesh network that would somehow fix the throughput allocation issue? If not... any particular suggestions on Ubiquiti products? Is there a particular setup I should aim for? @Saksham Any suggestion on Ubiquiti routers or is that just a general suggestion? Side note: My computers are ALL hardwired so I don't worry about wireless strength. I am curious about how a mesh network would help. Thank you both for responding. I'm still amazed how most consumer routers (even high end) have such critical issues.