ajfriesen

You can replicate what you did with vaultwarden for Jellyfin or any other application. You just need a second domain and point that to your home network ip. The reverse proxy will pick that up. Now you need to configure your reverse proxy to forward that domain to your Jellyfin I instances. It does not matter where your jellyfin is. Can be a different server, VM, docker, etc.

From where do you run the crystaidiskmark benchmark? Over the network as well?

As said previously: do not use bios raid. Why? When your board dies you need to have a compatible board to read your data. If you don't get that board, it's gone. My recommendation regardless of what you gonna do: install that is on a third drive. You may loose your OS but still have your data. You can raid a boot drive, but it involves more command line fu. If you are not a command line wizard I can recommend any of these in no particular order: TrueNAS Core TrueNAS Scale Unraid Rockstor Openmediavault If you want to go Ubuntu still install Ubuntu on the third drive and create a BTRFS raid1 setup. I would not go with mdadm these days.

There are a number of NAS OS out there. Each has its down and upside. TrueNAS Core and TrueNAS Scale use ZFS and that is right now not that flexible in regards expanding storage. Best lookup a video about vdev setup with zfs. Another more flexible solution is a BAS storage based on BTRFS. You can even mix and match drive capacity, add and remove as you like on the fly. NAS OS with a web gui examples for those are Rockstor and Openmediavault. If you are fit with the command line you can do all that from any Linux distro like Ubuntu. Since you mentioned parity drive: The concept of a parity drive to my knowledge only applies to unraid. There you have a whole drive allocated as a parity drive. Meaning this must be your biggest drive which holds information to restore data BTRFS and ZFS do not do that. All the drives hold some amount of parity data to restore a failed drive. There is also another option but only for Linux command line people: Snapraid with combination of mergerfs. You almost get a similar setup like unraid regarding the parity drive. But no web interface or GUI afaik.

You might be thinking about lorawan? The iot protocol. I have gone with the esp8266 (wemos d1 mini) because it is the only one support by esphome. AFAIK they do only support WiFi.

I could make it a little smaller that way, good point. But my friend wants to solder the wemos d1 mini directly to the board and won't use pin headers to have an even thinner device. That is why I kept it that way. Did miss to mention this little detail.

Hey fellow nerds, pc builders and home automation nerds! I wanted to share my little pet project: The pc-switch You see the device in Home Assistant and the device itself compared to a Euro coin. What does the pc-switch it do? - Control you PC via Home Assistant - Power on,off - Reset - Hard Shutdown - Monitor On/Off state - gets power over 5V from mainboard (like internal USB port) How: Software: - A simple small ESPHome configuration How: Hardware: - Based on ESP8266 - simple wifi board - power by internal pins from motherboard like USB - reset and power switch are using optocoupler to have isolation between pc mainboard and my PCB - monitoring works via the power led directly Why? - Learning (I just cant stop) - Wake-On-Lan is flaky (depends on so many things to get it working. For me it never worked) - originally for a friend who has build a 3D printed case for his PC - saving energy for your NAS/Server (does it really need to run 24/7? Turning it off for 8 Hours at night is 30% less energy consumption) - Control a PC which is not reachable like a HTPC - Automate setup for streamers (Turn on Streaming PC and Gaming PC automatically) - Get notified when you left on your gaming PC and ask for a shutdown with Home Assistant notifications - Hardware parent control. Kid is gaming to much? Just have a set shutdown time and gone are your problems (That is just a joke I came up with. Do not have kids ) - Whatever crazy stuff you would like to do Journey: I have no electrical engineering background. I just go for it. I am had a semester back in the day, but boy nothing did stick in my So take everything with a grain of salt and leave feedback if needed. It is much appreciated! First step was a breadboard prototype. Getting this work turned my brain around. For some reason electrical stuff is not easy for me. Second approach was a board soldered by myself. Man I suck at soldering. For some reason one of the switched did not work. Learned I had used way to much solder for connections. After self made thing I wanted to create a PCB version. Just for the sake of have to create a PCB (first time ever) and also making this accessible for people who do not like/know how to solder. Spoiler: I do not enjoy soldering as well Anyway. Some research later and I was trying to figure out how the heck these PCB designer programs work and which to choose from. I have gone with EasyEDA. Simple enough for my usecase. And here is the first PCB prototype: Absolut embarrassing chaos. But you know what? It fricking worked the first time! That was cool. Now, the problem was that between ordering and receiving this a few weeks have gone by. I for sure did not know which pin on the PCB I had to connect to Power, Reset, LED So this weekend I sat down and created another version with proper labels and some "branding". Will order another batch soon, therefore I just have a rendered version for you guys. If you have any questions or suggestions please feel free! I would love some feedback. Have a friend who is doing a 3D case already. Waiting for this as well. Alternatives: Oh yeah since you can only build this yourself (for fairly cheap, depending on where you live) there are also alternatives by SilverStone. But these do not integrated with Home Assistant directly. You either need to use an App with Cloud (oh my...). Or you have to go with the RF one. This one actually could be used with Home Assistant when you use a RF bridge anyway. - https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=714&area=en - https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=770&bno=132&tb=55 - https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=938&bno=132&tb=55&area=en Sources: Here is the project page where you will find all information: https://www.ajfriesen.com/pc-switch/ All my related blog posts: https://www.ajfriesen.com/tag/pc-switch/ GitHub repo for ESPHome config: https://github.com/ajfriesen/pc-switch

Thanks guys, I have upgraded my ram and it seems to be better now! Only issue is the damn Ryzen master software is not working. Always complaining about driver wrong. Tried already a lot of things from the internet. This seems to be a bad software experience...

This is the memory I just took over from my last build from 2016/2017 when I switched to the Ryzen 5800x from a i5-6700K. What do I leave on the table? Do you have an explanation why this should be the stuttering problem? A link for a good article is also appreciated.

I never tinkered with a lot of bios, CPU and memory settings and want to optimize my rig now. When it comes to tuning a machine my experience lies on server stuff, mostly virtualized and containers, Linux kernel etc. For a gaming pc i am just not equipped with that knowledge yet and would like some help. Main game (actually 100%): hunt showdown System: - Ryzen 7 5800x - PowerColor RX 5700xt (got this for 400ish € before the ride) - MSI b550 mortar WiFi - 32 GB crucial DDR4 2400 CL17-17-17 - CPU cooler thermal right macho rev. B - power supply: cooler master G450M - 2 x WQHD monitors with freesync and 144hz (Samsung C27HG70QQU) Do you guys have any recommendations how I can optimize my system? (I do not want to update my grafics card because I think it is still decent enough for WQHD.) Especially I have the problem about some stuttering when play HUNT. Even though I have it on almost the lowest setting for those 144 FPS. Sometimes it feels like I am also loosing connectivity to my wireless mouse and keyboard. But that is only ever happened on windows during gaming. I think I do not encounter this during work where I use the same dongle on the monitor usb hub on a laptop What would be so options to to let with? Would SMR give me better performance? Can I tune the memory a little? Is that card gonna need an overclock or undervolt (which I have no clue about these 2 topics)

The problem with displaylink, especially on linux, is the crazy amount of cpu usage. It is almost constantly at 80 to 100 % which will my laptop fan go crazy. Also Displaylink does not have ready made packages for fedora 30. The KVM switch though seems like a good solution when I can find a descent one. Then I could also get rid off that usb 3 hub and connect devices directly to the kvm switch. Is there a kvm switch which can drive also 120 frame rate monitor with wqhd resolution?

Hi folks, I have a desktop gaming PC with 2 of Samsung C27HG70 Monitors. Each monitor has 1 Displayport, 2 HDMI and 2 USB 3 ports. My desktop pc is connected via Displayport. I have all my periphals connected to on of the monitors (webcam, headset, keyboard and mouse) The usb3 extensions from each monitor go into one usb3 hub which then will get plug into the desktop pc front panel. I can easily take it off and plug it into one of my laptops. Now to my question. I have 2 Laptops Latitude 5480/5488 with Ubuntu 18.04 for work X1 Yoga (2018) with Fedora 30 for private stuff Since I occasionally work from home I bought myself an hdmi adapter to connect my dell laptop to my screens. The adapter is the i-tec USB-C 3.1 Dual 4K HDMI Video Adapter (https://i-tec.cz/en/produkt/u3dual4khdmi-2/) I had to install the DisplayLink driver on my work laptop to get it working. It seems my dell laptop does not have thunderbold. (At least I think it does not have). That works okaish. I have to plug in ethernet, i-tec adapter, my usb hub cable and power. Then I have to close the lit and place the laptop with the bottom facing up. Why? Because Displaylink is eating a hell a lot of my cpu and the laptop gets hot and works hard all the time. I tried to connect the i-tec adapter with my x1 yoga but it says there is no thunderbolt device detected. But on the side it says it is possible. I would prefer thunderbolt if it will not run that hot like displaylink. Main Goal One Dock where I have my 2 display cables, ethernet and usb peripherals attached. I am thinking of replacing that i-tect adapter and cable mess with a single cable solution (2 would also be fine). Would a dock like the HP Thunderbolt Dockingstation, 120W G2 work for both my laptop? I do not fully understand when the dock is usb-c, thunderbolt and displaylink. Edit: Update link to my i-tec adapter. Did provide the wrong one.