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Johetan

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  1. Sometimes if you use canned compressed air, the spot you blow it on gets really cold especially while shaking the can. Thus it could be condensation - if the PC boots fine without the card you could test yours in another PC. It could also be, that you blew dust into the pcie Slot? (Did you dust it while the card was removed?) Did something break whilst removing the card?
  2. I did use the pads that came with the bykski block, that did not work out. Today the new Thermalpads Arrived, now i Use alphacool. With the Waterblock, which i had to modify to make it work - i now get temps in low 50 on RAM and low 60 on hotspot die. (while benchmarking Shadow of the Tomb Raider in 3440*1440) Works for me. Problem: Solution
  3. I just ordered new pads, which where tested "okayisch" by igorslab. Now the journey continues - as mentioned above, the bykski block had some fitting issues - so now there is option two. As you see on the block, where the PCIE Slot Shield Thing Screws dug into the acrylic - hence the bending - I will attempt to sand off the edge and (mildly) flame polisch the acrylic afterwards, it seems alright, as this part of the block neither holds water nor is it in any way structural. Screwmarks are clearly visible.
  4. Is that something you would be looking for? https://www.bequiet.com/de/accessories/1448 if yes, there should have been one in the box, according to corsair. Corsair: EPS/ATX12V 8 pin (4+4) cable Cablemod offers the cable for 20USD, as a custom cable. They seem reliable enough. In the end i suggest whatever cable you buy, to measure wire resistance and perhaps voltage drop with a constant load. I wouldnt reccomend splitting the 8 pin to 2x8 pin... most likely youll be running out of spec then.
  5. Nice! Sorry for not checking in earlier. I kept the Bykski Cooler - I was not shure about wether or not I should cool the Inductors - The Manual for the Waterblock says the following parts need cooling. All that is marked red needs cooling according to bykski - blue does not make contact at all. I am concerned because on the original cooler the inductors do get a pad and cooling. Ill try some softer Pads for the Memory - hard to come by, but should be manageable.
  6. Hej folks, I got myself a 3070ti for a good price a few months ago, Yesterday I tried swapping the Cooler with a waterblock from bykski. That was a terrible idea as the fit on my card is horrible. It bends the whole card because the screws on the Slot are squished against the acrylic. Then I changed back to the original cooler. I had to use new pads, so I measured with a gauge, one with the lots of metal sheets stacked - got a approx 1.9 on vram and about 1.3 vrms, replaced with new pads, 2mm on ram, 1.5 on vrms. Now I get memory temps in the 90s, Is this normal? And does anyone have a good waterblock recommendation? All the best, Johetan
  7. Does anybody have experience with broadcasting and Livestreams on a medium to large scale (input wise) Context: live stream of events, talks and lectures What we have: fully audio/visual networked building. 8 small lecture rooms, 1 big Auditorium. We get all signals to our server room and get them via hdsdi. The plan is to have simultaneous streams from all 8 lecture rooms and the auditorium. My questions are. What do you guys think is necessary "PC" wise. (Thinking of Intel Xeon because of thunderbolt) And some 2080ti or Quadros. The "capture cards" of our as of now choosing are aja io 4k plus. The audience won't be that big, 1000 people at max. Does anybody have aws or ibm streaming experience? Are there better European hosted services? I am just at the beginning of understanding what might and might not be possible. Any suggestion is extremely welcome. (It won't be suitable for us to have a dedicated streaming Server on premises, as we don't have the bandwidth for multicasts) Johetan
  8. Finally done. It does do RGB Rainbow Unicorn puke. Block is EK Velocity, GPU Block is a now modified EK classic. RGB is the Aquacomputer Farbwerk 360 (Adressible), that does not require software to run permanently. Res is also an Aquacomputer 450ml res. Fans stay idle until 50°C CPU. It does not run hotter than 60 on a very mild Fan Curve. Its basically non audible. (Pump also runs on 42%PWM signal) No Problems with the Tubing even after a year. They still have some blemishes but ill work on that when the time for another refill comes. The LED Ring for the Res is 3D printed. It works for the 15LED RGBpx (80mm Res)
  9. For me it took them 6 minutes to send me that. (Reason for cancellation: Kape) Oh and I can't reach them from my Workplace anylonger. Its fun.
  10. The culprit was the firmware... Dang it... It was still on rev. 0 ... Plain luck that I had the i3 still in storage
  11. That seems to be a good idea. I do have an ir thermometer. Gonna try that tomorrow also the i3. ... I bet it's something rather simple in the end, as usual :D
  12. Hej Guys, So I've been trying to build a cheapo PC for my parents to use (its like my 8th "build" or so, never had any trouble) First, Setup: I5 4460 (delidded - could have gone wrong, doubt it as it starts and its not my first delid) H81M-E34 (used) 4GB DDR3 1333 (used) EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G2 (new) No GPU as of yet. Second, Problem: It just random shuts down and goes into a bootloop after that. Windows install gets to about 35% (File Transfer) It also randomly shuts down after x min in UEFI Temps are okayish (34 in idle, low profile cooler) I could try it with an haswell I3 and flash the newest firmware. But first Id like to ask if somebody ever had a similar problem? Cheers, Johannes
  13. Okay, I just tried out the RGB header on the Mainboard - Blue is always on. (it seems to "dim" but not to an 0 state) Tried Bios "downgrade" no change, installed RGB Software from Asrock, tried the firmware flash. No Change. RGB Strip is fine. (tested every channel individually) Do any of you have a clue what might be wrong? this sounds like a faulty transistor of some kind. The System per se should not be that difficult. its a controller (which is fine, as all the other LEDS on the board work properly) it has a 12v power source (which is always on) and likely some mosfets which put the pwm signal to good old 12v use. (on GND) Is there anybody who has a clue which component it might be? :D
  14. Not terrible. its quite rigid and not soluble in water. With copper tubing you have to be careful with destilled water, as it tends to get quite acidic quite fast due to dissolved Co2 in the water. But, i'll check the ph Number, and can also check the pipes. (Ive used it like that for half a year now) And on the outside, there is lacquer on the outside. (Nitrocellulose lacquer) Nickel and Copper should not get me in any trouble with galvanic corrosion. Thanks! I used 12mm od 10mm id copper pipes. (Sorry, Germany) (super cheap, like 3€ per meter) And I used soft copper, which i straightened by putting one end in a vice, holding the other end with a wrench and gently hammering the wrench to straighten it. The fittings are Alphacool Eiszapfen g 1/4 12/10mm. I guess if you want to go bigger, you might want to use 16mm soft copper pipe and 16mm od fittings. And I think 16mm fitting with 5/8" is a bad idea, but is it not possible to find metric copper tubing? (or probably another o-ring?... But youll still need a tube bender (a high quality one) the bending springs are garbage.
  15. Tried it, it works. its hard work tbh. Grafics card will be added sometime in the future
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