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BTGbullseye

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    USA
  • Member title
    Weirdo

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 5800X
  • Motherboard
    ASRock X570M Pro4
  • RAM
    G.Skill Ripjaws V 3600 16-16-16-30 4x8GB
  • GPU
    ASRock RX 5700 XT Reference with Eiswolf GPX-Pro 240 AIO
  • Case
    Antec P5
  • Storage
    1TB HP EX950 NVME, 1TB Mushkin Pilot-E NVME, 2x Seagate Constellation ES 2TB in RAID1
  • PSU
    Rosewill Capstone 750M
  • Display(s)
    ASUS ROG Strix XG32VC, MSI Optix MAG272CR
  • Cooling
    Arctic Liquid Freezer II 120mm with push-pull Arctic P12 PWM fans and 2x Arctic P12 PWM case fans
  • Keyboard
    GMMK with Kailh Pro Purple switches and Black Aura keycaps
  • Mouse
    G502 Lightspeed + Powerplay mousepad for full wireless operation
  • Sound
    Integrated Realtek ALC1200, CA-3090 speakers, Anker Soundcore Life Q20 headphones
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. With how few that DON'T have glass panels being listed on the sites people go to to buy cases, how would anyone ever be able to tell? Also, by that logic, nothing new is ever going to be made. Yes, and they are either really expensive, not listed on the sites people tend to go to for buying cases, or (as already mentioned) don't have 10GB front USB. And that's what I'm limited to using... The problem is the lack of choice, not that none exist anywhere. I'm not asking for dual USB-C, I'm asking for 10GB USB on the front panel. (or even just USB-C in the first place)
  2. Seriously... I don't want RGB, and will turn it off first chance I get. Is glass that much cheaper than metal or something? The only way to get a front USB-C 3.2 port (that means 10GB/s instead of just 5) is to get something with a glass side panel, and there are a grand total of TWO that have USB-C front ports without glass panels. I feel like swearing heavily right now. It feels like the RGB crazies have ruined things for people that like to have an actually dark room.
  3. I personally use Prolimatech PK-3, since it's remarkably similar performing to Grizzly, but at a WAY lower price.
  4. I don't use Windows 11, and Windows 10 doesn't auto-switch at all unless a program is in exclusive fullscreen. I have already done that, and that really doesn't relate to my issue at all. That is completely wrong. I wanted to be able to use ELMB with HDR, and didn't care about variable refresh.
  5. Agreed, and that's just another point where manufacturers are doing stupid shit with their monitors.
  6. I have... That's why I'm going so far as to reduce the refresh rate from 170Hz to 120Hz just to get it. SDR content on an HDR display is always under saturated. HDR content on SDR displays is always oversaturated. My statement stands.
  7. My GPU and monitor both support native 10-bit color (the panel is 8-bit FRC) and is significantly better than any 8-bit native I have ever even heard of. (also, saturation is not what I'm after, since HDR invariably is less saturated than SDR unless you crank the saturation) That is correct. There are reasons for this that would not apply to the average person, namely that I have abnormally high color vision capability, especially in lower illumination levels. I fully understand the drawbacks. The problem is when a company refuses to allow me to decide to do the inadvisable for arbitrary reasons. If there was a technical reason for it, I could understand, but everything everyone is saying indicates that there is no technical reason for it. Who are you to make that decision for me?
  8. Standard movie theater HDR content is at 48-100 nits. (https://www.projectorcentral.com/HDR-From-A-to-Z.htm?em#:~:text=In conventional commercial cinemas with,a much lower black level.) The reduction in brightness isn't that much of a deal in a light controlled environment. (which I have, it's called "a basement with blackout curtains") Unless they have the worst VA panels ever made, (specifically looking at the XG32VC) this shouldn't be a problem for an HDR400 capable monitor. My current monitor can already do backlight strobing and HDR combined, but is only 1080p. (and is MUCH older) HDR is contrast, not brightness. Eye searing ignores the contrast in favor of being as bright as physically possible, which is what the 1000 nit screens look like to me. They always seem to have really bad black levels. (excluding OLED) SDR lacks the color range that I'm looking for. I want the 10-bit color that is locked into an HDR mode. There is no logical reason that HDR or 10-bit color needs to be locked to only be available above certain brightness levels.
  9. Seems a bit arbitrary to me. There doesn't seem to be any technological reason to prevent it, just a "HDR should be eye searing" philosophy.
  10. Does ELMB prevent HDR without VRR enabled? I can't find anything online about it, as everything exclusively talks about ELMB sync with HDR. I don't care about VRR, I do care about HDR and motion blur.
  11. So, I have an Eiswolf 240 AIO on my 5700XT, and a Arctic Liquid Freezer II 120 AIO on my 5800X. One of them is gurgling, but I'm not positive which. (could even be both) Here's the issue I found... Before the test began, I tilted my entire system backwards by 45°, guaranteeing that the rad and tubes would be above the pump for my 5700XT. The spike in temps occurred the moment I returned it to flat, the gurgling returned immediately, and the GPU temps remain slightly more volatile than they were before, despite staying in similar temp ranges. (109°c - 111°c hotspot, mid 60's regular temps) The problem is, that when tilted the CPU got up into the 80's with no load, (rear mounted AIO rad, so the pump and block were top of the loop) then settled down tempwise when flat. I can't leave it tilted or the CPU will cook, and I can't leave it flat forever or the GPU will eventually melt. This probably wouldn't be an issue if I had a larger case with better AIO mounting locations, but this is what I had, and it made sense when I got it. (the stock 5700XT really did NEED the sound dampening that's in this case, before I got the AIO) What do you think, do I just need to find a way to refill my AIOs or what?
  12. Thank you for the information. I was hoping I wouldn't have to do that because it's a bit of a pain to do, but if that's what's needed, then that's what's needed.
  13. Ok, so before anyone says "that's normal", this is most definitely NOT normal, as the clocks were averaging HIGHER with the reference cooler than they are now with the CLC liquid cooler, with higher average temps and the same hot spot. (note, this is with an undervolt to 1.1v at 2GHz) Can anyone tell me where the sensor is for this so I can cool it properly?
  14. The first one is actually not too bad, the second link is for much lower quality RAM. The name of the RAM very rarely indicates its quality. If you want something that definitely will work in any Ryzen system, and still give good or excellent performance, look for the G.Skill Flare X RAM, as it's specifically designed to handle the early Ryzen peculiarities. The sweet spot for RAM with Ryzen 5000 is 3600Mt/s or 3800Mt/s, with all three primary timings the same. The reason for those Mt/s speeds is that the Infinity Fabric speed is based off of it, and the faster that goes, the faster your entire system will operate. (a significantly higher performance impact than the RAM speed itself could ever produce) There are some sites out there with lists of the best RAM for Ryzen CPUs, and I would suggest looking them up if possible, as regular reviewers like LTT generally don't do long-term system stability testing related to RAM choices. I could recommend several great RAM kits, but it's entirely possible they are not available in your area. Yes, and when using a Ryzen CPU, looser timings result in significantly less stability. (like the issue where ANY Ballistix RAM apart from the $600+ kits wouldn't even POST on Ryzen 1000 to early Ryzen 3000 chips without manually setting them to well below JEDEC specs) I'm not recommending solely based on the performance, despite it appearing so in my post. Or a 4x8 kit, or two identical (even if manufactured 2 years apart) Samsung B-die 2x8 kits. (I don't have any reliable data on other combinations)
  15. If the card or cables are getting that hot, you better pray that it shorts instead of setting fire to your house. There is no way a 3060 or its cables will get that hot without some really bad things happening that will definitely kill your system, and probably you, before they get that hot.
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