RekiChan

Yes I tried it. I had it. From searching online it seem most people said that it was because of the DSP chip that corrects the sounds, I don't even know why is this a thing.

Hello, audio noob here, is there any different between wireless and wired powered on mode of wh1000xm3? I know that it sounds terrible using wired mode with the power off because the headphone has DSP that modify the sound to sounds right. I has a Topping D50 that I uses to connect to the headphone via RCA to 3.5mm wire. Will the analog signal bypass the built-in DAC and be processed by the DSP directly or will it be converted to digital signal to be processed by DSP and then by the DAC back to analog signal? Is there any different in sound produced by wired vs wireless mode? Because I mainly use the headphone for spotify, youtube, and gaming, I need to consider whether the improvement (if there is) of sound quality of wired mode will worth sacrificing the convenience of wireless mode. Thanks.

I see, so I guess my a320m actually output stabler voltage than x470? or is it some sort of safety feature of x470? I'm not sure of how my 3600 compared to others, it seems that most reviewer achived 4.3Ghz at 1.4v.

The top one was at 4.3Ghz while the 2nd was at 4.1Ghz from PBO+Auto OC.

um, no. just dont. thats withing lethal voltage of 1,45v. But it was stable for months.

I upgraded my rig from Ryzen 5 2600 to Ryzen 5 3600 within 1 week after launch. I used Gigabyte A320M S2H for my 2600 and kept it for 3600 because it is compatible. Pairing the Ryzen 3600 with Gigabyte A320M s2h I managed to Oc-ed it to 4.3Ghz at 1.45volt stable for full load for months. Recently I bought Asus Prime x470 Pro expecting it to better OC for my cpu, but I only managed to OC-ed it to 4.2Ghz at 1.35volt. All attempt to OC it pass 4.2Ghz at any voltage failed. Even with PBO it only managed to boost at 4.09Ghz peak and 4.05Ghz constant and using 1.45volt. I use Bios for PBO and Ryzen Master for Manual OC for both motherboard. Any explanation? Did I do something wrong?

Hmm, as far as I know a sound card is basically a DAC/Amp with some software features that add effects to the sounds like virtual surround, bass boost, equalizer, etc. A sound card usually only have analog outputs (3.5mm, RCA, Components) and digital input (USB, Optical, Coax, PCIe), but some sound cards do have optical output (not sure about USB output). What these sound cards with digital output do are basically just add effects to the sounds digitally without converting them to analog signal to be played by your headphones. I'm not knowledgeable about Arctis 7, but does it have analog input like RCA or 3.5mm? or is it only digital wireless input through USB dongle? If it only have digital input then you may be interested in some software solution instead of sound card. Try RealTek HD audio Manager.

Has OP solved their issue? I had just encounter the same problem and my old method didn't work. What I did to solve my issue was: 1. Turn off the PC 2. Disconnect all monitors 3. Reconnect one monitor 4. Turn on the PC 5. Open your graphic card control panel and windows Display Setting 6. With those two windows opened, reconnect the other monitor. 7. (Optional) restart. Try this and tell me if it works.

You meant Taotronics?

Hello, I has a Topping D50, with my PC as usb input, and output through RCA to an RCA switcher which is connected to my HomeTheater through RCA input and to my WH1000XM3 through RCA to 3.5mm cable. I also has a Samsung Note 8 which I would like to use to stream music through Bluetooth (aptx HD or Samsung UHQ) to Topping D50 and use it as a DAC while outputting to either HomeTheater or headphone. I know that Topping D50 (not D50s) doesn't has a Bluetooth capability. I know that I can just connect my phone to my wh1000xm3 through Bluetooth but it seems to be a waste not to use the D50 as a DAC and turning on the wh1000xm3 as an amplifier while still connected to the dac through wire. So my question is, is there a device that receives Bluetooth audio and output it without converting the data to analog first as optical, coaxial, or USB? So that I can input it to the dac?

Maybe, but it's really annoying when the cursor accidentally when to the desktop on TV which was turned off. And somehow I notice that I got much better image quality with almost no loss in fps when playing in borderless fullscreened window rather than exclusive full screen. That's why I always play in borderless window and that's also why sometimes the cursor might went pass the window if I miss-pressed a button.

I had been using Display Fusion too but had never try to explore it full capabilites beside using it to position my monitors and setting wallpapers. In which setting can I set profiles? Or is it not in the free version?

As the title said, I have 2 1080p 24" monitors (1 at 144hz TN for gaming, another one at 60hz IPS for color sensitive works) and also a 2160p 43" TV which I used for watching YouTube and movies. To conserve energy, I don't want the TV to be always on, and I don't think I'll ever used all three display for their intended purposes at the same time. Hence I would like for the PC to stop processing display data for the TV when it was not turned on as it'll impact my gaming performance. One way to do this is to just duplicate the display on one of the monitor to the TV. But it looks awful as the monitor and TV have different resolution, and the mirror display function in windows 10 sends the same resolution display to both screens. Another way to do this is to just go to windows 10 display setting and disconnect the TV whenever it is turned off but as expected, it gets really tedious. Is there another way to do this?

the same thing happens with me too, even if I switched the monitor to another port it still won't work. Even if I switch the Display port cable to another one or even to HDMI cable, the monitor can detects that it was connected to a PC but it'll shows "no signal". DDU didn't help in my case, only by totally unplugging the monitors for 15mins+ and boot with only that monitor before adding other monitors.

Check your motherboard QVL and choose what you need. But if your motherboard can't even support XMP or d.o.c.p listed for the RAM it could be in problem too. Have you checked the ram slot? I made this mistake when I first started building my own pc, turns out that out of 4 ram slots on the motherboard only 2 of them support xmp or docp. It's either (A2 and B2) or (A1 and B1) check your motherboard manual.

Do you have another PC? use the other PC to install windows to that ssd, then use the SSD for the new builld.

Then probably the installer can't detect your disk drive. Are you using NVME? I think there is a specific installation guide that you need to do for NVME. the setting is in the bios. Check your motherboard manual on how to do this. most probably you need to disable CSM/UEFI. If you has other PC you can also try to make a Live USB (Windows To Go) with rufus. Boot to windows with that USB to check if it even possible for the motherboard/PC to be used.

How far had the installation progress went? Did you at least manage to get pass the select the install location? Did you reach this screen? if so at which part? Or you can't even boot from the USB? Depending on which stage the error occurs it could be either the HDD/SSD/NVME error, USB error, motherboard error, or other devices.

If you're going to buy the motherboard in physical stores then maybe you can request them to update the bios for you.

I'm using triple monitor set up and this happens often to one of my monitor too, what I usually do if this happens is to unplug all the cables including power cable from the monitor and graphic card, and let it be for few minutes. Then connect all the cables back, if it still mentioned "no signal detected" then boot the PC with that monitor only and then restart windows. It seems that either the display or graphic card stores information regarding the connected devices, and if the information was corrupted for some reason this can happen, hence turning the monitor totally off for few minutes helps reset the information I think.

Your calculation was correct. With incremental upgrade I spent around 330$ to 350$ in 3 years. That's around the price of R7 1700 when it came out. But the performance of R5 3600 is 25% better than R7 1700. Depends on what the purpose of the PC, and no matter how good the most expensive and best current CPU is, it'll most probably became equivalent to low end CPU that will come out in 3 years. Example: Intel 5960x used to be the best gaming+productivity CPU 4 years ago, but now it has the performance equivalent or slightly above to Ryzen 5 2600. Intel 5960x had the MSRP of USD900 (that is still the current price) and Ryzen 5 2600 at USD140. From this it can be seen that future proofing is impossible no matter from which perspective you look at it. But at least with AMD Ryzen you can update incrementally for far cheaper price than trying to "Future proof" because you only need to change the CPU. Regarding AMD RAMs, you don't really need to upgrade the ram for every time you upgrade the CPU, and if you want to upgrade it you can always sell the old one and do the same thing as with the CPU that I mentioned before. And RAMs prices are at all time low currently due to over-supply. But I can understand how someone can be stress out trying to keep up with all these fast paced changes in technology. So the best advice I can give to you if you are stressed by this is just buy what you need now and ignore all the temptations for 3 years which should be around the time that the new gen CPU is going to be much better than the 3 years old one.

From MSI forum, 3E - Post-Memory PCH initialization (PCH module specific), some suggest to check memory stick, some suggest to check for bent CPU pin, some suggest to check for GPU. Some suggest to rebuild the PC.

From this screenshot of task manager I can see that some applications were using lots of memory and that the GPU (RTX2070 Super) was being utilized up to 13%. Depends on what you were doing at that time it might seems that the CPU can't process information sent by GPU or memory fast enough thus showing that it was being utilized 100% even though there were only light load on CPU. The CPU was using all it clock cycle to process instruction from GPU/Memory but not actually being under load. It's a case of CPU bottleneck I think. I think this also happens when you're gaming with low resolution and low setting. Even if you're using RTX2080Ti and played only games that utilize only GPU, if you're using R7 1700 the FPS will still being limited by CPU as the CPU need to process the frames and inputs/outputs from other devices hence limiting the FPS. In task manager it'll show that CPU was being utilized at high percentage but it's actually only processing data from GPU hence low load and temperature.

I have some trouble with using Toslink as it seems to have a delay (it skipped the first few seconds of audio) when the PC was just started sending the data. After the initial delay it will be smooth and no more delay. But if there is long silence between audio then the delay will be back. For example, it happens with youtube auto play, it will skips the audio of the first few seconds of the video then it'll be smooth until the wait for the next video in the autoplay where it'll be back again. It seems that the delay was caused by the fact that the receiver need to convert the light signal from the toslink back to electrical one then convert it to analog.