Founders

Glad your card is working and we were able to help!

Well then you're falling to post for either or both of those components. You said the 8 pin EPS connecter was good. How about the 24 pin, double check that. You said you cleared CMOS. What did you do exactly? You want to short the two CMOS pins at the very bottom of your board using either the head of a screw driver or the little cap your board came with (if included). Try loosening the screws on your cooler a bit (a quarter to a half turn, each). If there's too much pressure on the CPU it can cause odd posting behavior. You've tried running one stick of RAM in the slot furthest from the CPU, correct? If everything above fails: I know you said you prefer not to but I think you should reseat your CPU. Just unscrew the cooler, alternating screws to keep pressure even. Once the screws are out wiggle the cooler until you feel it come loose. Remove it by pitching it to one side first, don't pull straight up. Unlatch the socket, and remove the CPU. After you reseat the CPU clean the old paste off of the heat spreader, the cooler, and reinstall.

I wouldn't do it, there's likely something wrong with your PSU. Or, it was just a freak coincidence that your GPU decided to pack up at that exact moment. Some ideas Return the PSU and chalk this up to horribly bad luck. Contact FSP and explain what happened, sometimes a manufacturer will cover damage to other components connected to a faulty PSU still under warranty. (This is rare though, and you'll need proof that it was working beforehand) Contact Zotac, obviously the card is no longer under warranty but they may still be willing to help for a fee, less than the cost of a full replacement. (it's worth a try) Last ditch effort here: If you take the cooler off your GPU and clean it. You could use a heat gun to try and reflow the solder on the GPU die, VRM, and RAM. This doesn't always work, but there is a small chance it could do the trick (assuming the PSU hasn't completely smoked the GPU) Good luck to you!

So I'm assuming you tested the GPU in a different system and it passed? Do you have another GPU you can use to test this system to see if the problem persists? (Could be board or PSU related) Can you try the system as-is with a different PSU? If you tested the card in another system and it worked perfectly then your issue is probably elsewhere.

Your EPS cable from your power supply to your CPU 8-pin looks loose (upper left of the picture shown). Can you make sure it's in all the way. Removing the CMOS battery and pressing and holding your power button for a minute with the PSU off could also help if need be.

Yeah I'm confused, the title and the OP are different.

I'm not sure if the prices will drop, but if you're ordering directly from Dell you can definitely find a coupon or two to stack.

Time for an upgrade? The 3080ti variants are available now, which I guess is par for the course, release the most expensive SKU's first. If this article is to be believed I would expect to see them in the next week or two, good luck.

Typically, if you're buying a PCIe card meant to fit in a low-profile or half height slot the listing will specify if both brackets are included. Do you have a link?

It makes absolutely no difference. Only if it's a combo. If it's an individual card then you can buy one item, or none and then it will go to someone else.

This could be of some help:

MX4, Noctua, Thermal Grizzly, Arctic Silver 5, and many more. I've used a bunch over the years and honestly they all seem to perform within a few degrees of each other assuming your cooling solution is sufficient and your using good TIM. As @Spotty said there was a recent MX5 recall so if you order it the tube you get may be bad. I'd avoid MX5 for at least the next little bit until Arctic works it out.

You can try running ClockTuner for Ryzen, just make sure to read up on it before you run it. It tunes per core to give you the best results it can, it should be able to help get you a stable overclock at lower voltages than PBO would require.

To be clear you want to remove your onboard audio device completely after you disabled it in your BIOS? When you go into device manager and view hidden devices do you still see the onboard audio showing up? If so, right click it, uninstall device, and make sure remove device drivers is checked off.

Your PSU is fine, I would say your chip is just a little weak, but it's a 3600 so it's not going to have the best binning to begin with. How does your chip do with PBO enabled? I know it pushes your voltage pretty high but the 3600 is not a hot chip so you may be better off sticking with that.