Olivejuice

I thought so too, however when trying to pry it off it offers more resistance than I think an adapter would be able to provide and doesn't seem to budge.

I took apart an old HP printer since there were pictures stored internally on an HDD. However, the drive inside is a 1.5gb microdrive (Seagate ST615211FX) and I have no idea how to read it. Usually, these embedded models have a standard 40-pin zif connector that can be read with an adapter but this one is 45-pin. Has anyone ever heard of this/know where I can purchase the appropriate tool to read the data from this drive?

I have a Dell (Model# TTYFJA00 I think) laptop with a boot issue. The issue is that when the machine is cold booted or restarted, it boots into Dell's "ePSA Pre-Boot System Assessment (4302.10)" BIOS diagnostic utility. Letting this utility run never finds any issues or errors. If i hold F12 during boot and manually boot to the drive, Windows 10 boots as normal. Here's what I have tried thus far: - Letting the diagnostic utility run its course (never finds anything wrong) - Switching startup method in windows to 'normal' - Re-seated power button ribbon cable (I read somewhere that non-keyboard button presses can cause the diagnostic to come up) - Reinstalled windows 10 - Disabled/Enabled secure boot (I read on a Dell forum that sometimes secure boot doesn't play nice after a windows update) - Verified the partition in which windows is installed is marked as 'active' - Reseated drive and RAM - Reset BIOS to default settings - Updated BIOS to most recent version - Setting the hard disk as the only boot option - Swapped the HHD for a known good SSD with windows 10 installed - Verified CPU fans are spinning - Tested with compatible charger - Tested with/wthout battery installed Would love any and all reccomendations you can provide, I'm getting really frustrated with this...

Would Apple thunderbolt 2 to thunderbolt 3 adapter work both ways? By that I mean it's supposed to adapt TB3 to the older TB2, taking a speed cut from 40gbps to 20gbps. But would it work the other way around? I realize OBVIOUSLY you would still have only 20gbps transfer speeds, but would it still function? I have a 2012 MacBook pro that over time I've upgraded everything from the ram to the thermal paste, including dual booting win 10. I'd love to do some casual steam gaming on it but the integrated graphics, while great for general productivity, don't offer great fps. I happen to have a reference 980ti laying around, and can get a PSU/tb2 enclosure for it for around $150 - would this kind of setup even work with an adapter? I know apple only OFFICIALLY supports AMD-based eGPUs with high Sierra, but since I'd be running steam on win10 this shouldn't be an issue? (Since TB is an Intel hardware spec, not an apple software limitation) Also I have concerns with TB 2 speeds being capable of supporting an eGPU, but then again apple used to sell a TB2 "black magic" eGPU so maybe it's fine? (At least with a 980ti, I'm assuming something crazy like an OC 2080ti might be bottlenecked) And again this is all assuming the adapter will work the way I intend it to? Basically, I'm asking if anyone else has done something similar - or do I just spend the 200 bucks on the adapter + enclosure, test it, and report back? Mid-2012 unibody MacBook Pro I7-3615QM 4c/8t @ 2.3-3.3 Ghz 2 TB Samsung 850 Evo SSD Intel HD 4000/Nvidia GT 650M 16 GB 1600mhz DDR3 memory MacOS High Sierra/Windows 10

GPU: Gigabyte G1 gaming 980ti Did an update on nvidia drivers and windows feature update today (because I like to live life on the edge) and sure enough now I have a problem with artifacting in chrome. I've been messing around with windows all day and as far as I can tell there are no issues within the windows interface, microsoft office, photoshop, edge, or even firefox - just chrome. Any ideas? can I rollback to a previous driver? anyone else having this issue? Black bars when hovering over some (but not all) buttons/toggles/menus in chrome: Example of normal newegg menu in edge and firefox:

Installed a USB flash drive into my router's (TPlink Archer A7) USB port in an attempt to have my backups stored there, but I keep getting thrown the same error. I've tried formatting the drive as both NTFS and FAT32, all of the computers on my home network can view/edit the contents of the drive, and I can see it in the router's GUI. While monitoring its progress, I did notice the backup prepares the files okay but crashes once it starts to copy the files to the networked drive. The backup goes through fine when the drive is plugged into my computer directly, so I know it plays well with windows at least in theory. Any ideas? Windows 10 Home 64bit Version 1903 18362.295 Sandisk 128gb Ultra Fit TPLink Archer A7

Unfortunately, even that, is too much for her - she needs a "set it and forget it" solution. With the W/D drive, all she had to do was plug it in and it would prompt her to start a backup. To put it in perspective, she thinks using Ctrl+C and Ctrl+V instead of File -> copy and File -> paste is wizardry. ?

Wanted to throw an idea out there to see how terrible it is, here's the situation: One of my parental units had a laptop drive fail recently. Thankfully everything was recovered and replaced, however she is now scarred from the experience and wants to have her data backed up on a regular basis. After some late night "research" she went out and bought an external WD hard drive/backup solution. However, she forgets to use it and complains that it's "too complicated" and so we're back to square one. (She's 0% "tech savvy") - I can't add a second drive to her laptop as it only has one SATA port. - I tried scheduling windows to backup to a networked hard drive but her router's software for this is pretty terrible and I can't get it to work. - She doesnt "trust" cloud storage because big brother will "look at her data" - I'm afraid of just YOLOing it by leaving a low-profile USB drive attatched as she's broken off 2 of her fitbit dongles already and those are pretty small So then I came across this: https://www.newegg.com/p/0EP-00CS-00004?Description=m.2 nvme to sata adapter&cm_re=m.2_nvme_to_sata_adapter-_-0EP-00CS-00004-_-Product Would it be possible to have two m.2 drives in Raid 1 or would windows have problems recognising two drives from one SATA interface? (Also, I'm aware that the R/W speeds would effectively be halved but considering she's spent the last few years on a 5400 RPM 2.5" drive I dont think she'll really notice) https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=500gb+b+key+m.2&qid=1566513383&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVDk0U1ZUT1NKOVRIJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDYzNzk4M00zSEJIWENHTlVOOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjQ1MDEyMUpaSVUwSTFTRTRFTCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= (Obligatory am open to suggestions any ideas are welcome) ?

Looks like everything's back to normal - after three runs im hitting about 5950-5960. I dont know what the margin of error is for Furmark but i think that's close enough?

I just did a clean install of the Nvidia driver at default settings and the GPU is now idling at a breezy 42! BUT I did notice that the clock speed is no longer pegged at 999mhz? I presume it may have been stuck on some kind of performance/full turbo mode? I don't have a screencap of afterburner when the card was installed so I don't actually know how long its been that way....

I had guessed that might be the case I just wasn't sure that a 95w vs 65w CPU @ sub-5% utilization would cause that much of difference in temps.

Hi, new to the forums & building pcs, here's my situation: I recently upgraded to a Ryzen 1700x from a 3200G (not having any issues, it was cheap and im a sucker) i installed it with an AMD wraith prism cooler. However, I am noticing that my ASUS reference 980ti is running about 5-7 Celcius hotter than before according to MSI afterburner. I even verified this in Furmark (I did repeated testing when i first got the card in order to determine any future degredation) and im getting scores around 3150 whereas originally i was almost hitting 6000. I mean it's only idling in the mid 50s so not THAT bad but it is noticibly different. Any ideas as to why this is occuring? Ryzen 3200G -> Ryzen 7 1700x ASUS reference 980ti (no OC) Asrock A320m HDV 4.0 2x8 ballistix 3200mhz CAS 16 EVGA 650w PSU