Muhlis

2 years ago, I requested help on my mistakenly formatted HDD that includes my whole photo archive. Tried a lot of ways to recover the files and they didn't work. Fortunately (or should I say, unfortunately), I found my photo archive on my Google Drive. I compressed my photos into a RAR archive back in 2017 but I put a password for it because that time I was sketchy if Google does look into our photos. I did save the password into a TXT file but goddammit it was lost in the formatted HDD. I have some hints but I wasn't able to find the password. Any suggestions on how I can crack the password? I have an RTX 3060 if that can help speed up the cracking progress.

Turns out it works on BIOS (using - and + keys, not typing the value) but with a big caveat. The performance halved when I applied a -50 mV undervolt. They say Intel removed the undervolt feature over the Plundervolt bug.

The case is MSI M100A. On actual workload, generally it's around 70 to 85C. 40C on idle.

Hi, After having a good time using my laptop with i5-8250U and Throttlestop enabled, finally I built my first desktop PC. I have an Intel i5-12400F with an MSI H610M-E mobo. The case has a mesh design with 4 fans (no problem in air cooling). The CPU runs pretty cool when idle but in very demanding workloads (such as Cinebench benchmarks or 4K video rendering), the CPU can go up to 98C with the stock cooler. I already applied a good amount of MX-4 thermal paste, so that would not be a problem. I tried to undervolt it but was unsuccessful. Intel XTU grays up the voltage parameter, Throttlestop says it's not available, and I can't undervolt it on BIOS too (but I'm not sure if I missed something). What should I do? I attached some screenshots from the BIOS, TS and XTU if it will be useful. Thanks.

Probably I won't, even if I have to it wouldn't be a problem if I have to wait an extra minute.

I'm going to pair RTX 3060 12 GB with i5-12400F. I'll use it for 1080p gaming and some video editing/rendering on Davinci Resolve as a hobby. A step up from i5-12400F to i5-12400 costs as much as $60 and I'm on a budget, I already gave up on AMD GPU because Nvidia GPUs apparently have better rendering performance. Local forums I asked about this question majorly got the answer "go with the i5-12400F" but guys from the Blackmagic forum say an iGPU in CPU will make a big improvement in performance and suggests the i5-12400. Which CPU should I go for?

You're right, but is there a GUI-equipped alternative for this? This does use scripts (commands) instead of serving a GUI interface. Edit: Guess I found it. Thanks https://github.com/tsukumijima/Real-ESRGAN-GUI

There's an app called SuperImage, it can upscale photos with Real-ESRGAN algorithm. While that's interesting, is there a Windows equivalent of the app/program?

If I plug a USB hub to my computer, then connect a Wi-Fi and Bluetooth adaptors (separately) on the USB hub, would it be a problem?

When I turned on my laptop in the morning, both the internet (Wi-Fi) and Bluetooth were gone. When I look in device manager, there is no Wi-Fi device (must be Intel) in network Adapters. At the bottom, I see a faulty device. When I double-click it, code 43 error appears, it says there is a problem. Solutions I tried: I restarted the computer. I took the Wi-Fi USB driver from my dad and checked for windows updates, everything is up to date. I checked the Intel driver assistant if the drivers are up to date, for some reason it couldn't identify the Wi-Fi driver. I downloaded the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth drivers for my model from Acer's own site, installed them, restarted the computer, it didn't work. Last but not least, I reinstalled Windows 11 from scratch on the laptop. The problem is still there. My computer model is Acer Swift 3 SF315-52G. What could be the solution? Could the network card be broken?

Hi. I just purchased a Microsoft Bluetooth mouse today. I already had a Philips SHB3075 Bluetooth headphones. The problem is, when both connected to my laptop, the audio on the headphones stutters. Sometimes the mouse also stutters when moved. Unpairing one of the devices solves the problem. Is there any solutions for this?

I have Samsung A32 phone and Samsung Fit 2. When the Fit 2 is out of range, it disconnects and can't connect automatically (thanks for the last update by Samsung). A bluetooth pairing request appears on the phone when the Fit 2 is in range again but it requires me to manually press on pair so it can connect. Is there a way so the phone can auto accept a bluetooth pairing request? Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

I'm considering that too. Maybe in next week when I have some free time, gonna reinstall Windows. Thanks for helping.

Yes, it is. But it was formatted with USB (from boot menu setup).

I didn't find it on both W11 Settings app and control panel app list.