austin.paquette

I went through a lot more after this, I ended up upgrading to a Ryzen 5600x, which also meant a new board. I left my PC for testing at a computer store for a week and they found "no issues". I even got a new PSU before that, thinking my old one was bunk and couldn't handle the new GPU or it had gone bad. But I still had crashes. I gave up and just eliminated the last two factors, CPU and motherboard. Haven't had issues since. Computers, man.

500GB Crucial sata SSD Something of note for it, I've discovered that the locking mechanism on the SATA cable doesn't work properly for some reason. The cable is fine but it seems the connection on the drive itself has been worn down as such that you could just pull the cable out with not much force, and it's mounted vertically on a bracket in a Fractal Define C. It's never come fully out on its own, but is it possible that without being locked in, it causes an unstable connection and crashes?

I've recently had a crashing issue that results in freezing with the last thing on screen (no BSOD) and loud buzzing coming from the speakers (9 times out of 10). After forcing a restart the computer starts as normal, except after every third crash, the CMOS needs to be reset, either with shorting pins or battery removal. So far I've: - tried dozens of GPU drivers - RMA'd the GPU (I recently got a new one and thought it was the cause) - updated the BIOS - tried the second PCIe slot - formatted Windows - bought a new PSU - performed a RAM test - bought a higher quality DP cable None of it to any avail. Sometimes it will crash on the desktop doing nothing, sometimes five minutes into a game, and sometimes not at all. I ran Heaven on it for over an hour after buying a new PSU and thought I solved the issue, then it crashed five minutes into playing Tetris: Effect the next day. The only other variables are a bad CPU, boot SSD, or motherboard. And since out of those three, motherboards tend to be the more fragile and prone to dying, I don't know what else it could be. My board and CPU are 5+ years old so it would make sense. Any opinions? Specs: - Intel i5 7600k - MSI Ventus RTX 3060ti - ‎Strix H270F MB - ‎EVGA 850 G5 - ‎Corsair Vengeance 16GB

Please see this post for full context: TLDR PC crashes after upgrading to an RTX 3060ti, frozen screen and loud buzzing from speakers. Worked fine for two weeks initially. After replacing the GPU, shuffling through drivers, updating the BIOS, formatting Windows, changing DP cables, switching GPU PCIe slots and testing my RAM, it seems I've narrowed the issue down to being either the PSU, CPU or Motherboard. My PSU is an EVGA 750 GQ that's about 5-6 years old. It has an eco setting, which should keep the fan off until it reaches a threshold (I saw someone say somewhere it's around 40% load). I ran Superposition, then Heaven (which I had a crash during) yesterday and noticed the fan in the PSU does not spin up at all. Could my issue after all this time be overheating? Is that the sort of crash to expect from a failing PSU? Am I even pulling enough power for it to matter?

Just crashed again with the updated BIOS. I am going to lose my mind.

Ended up RMA'ing the card, they swapped it and I'm still having lockups. Bought a more expensive DP cable thinking maybe the old one is cheap and not rated well enough, and nope. Just updated the BIOS and I'm hoping that might be it. I don't know what else it could be since it only started occurring after the new GPU. Maybe some parts in the system aren't playing nice together?

Nothing is overclocked. I have a friend who can help me with a BIOS update later and I'll report back to the thread of any changes. For now I just wanted to see if anyone could potentially recognize the issue.

I recently got a new MSI RTX 3060 TI. For a few weeks things were smooth until my computer started constantly crashing during playing games, and even a couple times while just browsing normally. Sometimes I'll go for a few days or a week before another crash, sometimes within one hour or five minutes of starting a game. It feels completely random. I've been playing Tetris Effect, Don't Starve Together, and AC: Origins recently which the computer has crashed during. The prior two aren't exactly demanding games. When I crash, the last thing on the screen will remain until I force the PC off with the power button. The speakers will buzz very loudly the entire time. For every third crash, I need to reset the CMOS as the PC will no longer post. I've been through this ritual about six times trying to troubleshoot. I've tried multiple different drivers with the help of Nvidia support, including a seemingly very early one from 2021 to no avail. I've DDU'd each time when changing drivers. I've run a GPU stability program they sent to see if it would crash during use, I left it for 90 minutes and no crash. They are suggesting a last resort update to the BIOS and chipset to see if that will help. What I'm asking is if anyone knows what could be going on here, and would a BIOS update help with this sort of thing, or should I just go through with the RMA process? Aside from that I've seemingly tried everything. I'll include an image that my friend was able to help me find by giving him a dump file my computer spat out. He noticed that it says the driver is having an error and causing the crash. Everything was pointing to a driver error but it might just be a hardware issue at this point. Specs: Intel i5 7600k MSI Ventus RTX 3060ti Strix H270F MB ‎EVGA 750 GQ 16GB ‎Corsair Vengeance 8x2 I'm not sure about BIOS version, but it's never been updated since building this PC about 5 years ago. If needed I can provide it.

I adored the hardware design of those Windows phones, especially The Nokia Lumia 1020. Idk if the cameras on those were anything good but they sure flaunted them like they were. Microsoft is terrible at marketing and knowing what people wanted. They had something great but, Microsoft doesn't know how to commit like Apple does.

I did fail to mention in the OP that on the games that had the CPU completely pinned, I was getting terrible stuttering and 1 percent lows. A compatibility site I checked said using these two together is allegedly leaving 30% of performance on the table, which is not ideal. It's not urgent of course, but I think a CPU and MB upgrade is in the near future. Thanks for the input.

Years ago when the GTX 10 series was new. I might as well just pick up a new cooler as well. Didn't think this GPU upgrade would have me replacing almost my entire PC lol

I have the good ol' Hyper 212, on the site it shows 1200 as compatible but not 1700. I assume I'm boned if I decide to go 12th gen?

Ah, I didn't consider that at all. Thank you. Seems like those two wouldn't be that big of a compromise. Are there any features I should be aware of on a new board? And would I be able to carry over my current cooler?

I recently upgraded to an RTX 3060 TI from a 1060 6GB and loving it. Got a new 1440p 144hz monitor to go with it as well. However I've noticed that my i5 7600k has been pegged at 100% while the GPU sits around 80-90% in various games. Apparently according to some compatibility calculators online it seems like I'm CPU bottlenecked. Should I get a 9th gen CPU, because that's the last gen available for LGA 1151 (and apparently the 9600k would play nice with the 3060 TI), or spring for a new motherboard and 10th gen or higher? Which would be the smarter move? 9th gen would be cheaper, but 10th gen+ would be better future proofing.

Yes, it's basically a little Bluetooth receiver that's plugged into the car audio and is constantly charging, since the car itself doesn't have a media screen, or a Bluetooth connection at all. It's set in the app to be recognized as "the car". No USB ports either It's an incredibly jank solution but I do what I can in a used car from 2010 that seems to have had not many options selected when it was new. However, in very typical Google fashion, it actually started working again normally about a week ago. I switch it on and the notification appears now, and 15 seconds later AA launches. Didn't touch anything. Problem solved I guess.

Figured this would be the best section to post this, didn't find any past threads either about it. I drive a car old enough that it doesn't have a media dash or even Bluetooth. My solution is to use my phone on a wireless charging mount and a Bluetooth receiver that I switch on/off manually each time I drive. I found a receiver recently proves to be better than my old one. Mostly just better sound and a switch for power rather than a button hold. However unlike my old receiver, connecting to it doesn't start the Android Auto interface automatically anymore. I've chosen all the same settings again, as far as I know. Before it would activate a 15-second countdown notification and then launch the interface. Now simply nothing happens. Anyone ever have a similar issue or ever use the same solution as me? Did I miss a step that isn't obvious? I used my last receiver for years and never had to touch the settings so maybe they changed something.

I figured, but you can never know sometimes. I've heard multiple instances of people talking about it and saying that you need Ultimate, plus like, it sounds too good to be true? How come being on PC gives me the ability to choose the lower paying one, while someone who buys an actual XBox needs Ultimate? Honestly it doesn't make too much sense to me but I won't argue lmao

Sorry for reviving a dead thread, but I figure this would probably be a good place to get an answer. Since this whole EA Play integration is coming soon, I'm just here trying to understand in which package its included. On their site it says: So from my understanding, if I'm just paying for the base level Game Pass on PC (currently costing me $5.99/mo), I don't need to upgrade to Ultimate? Is upgrading to Ultimate only necessary if you're not on PC?

I remember when wireless charging was first implemented in the Pixel 3, Google restricted 10W speed to only their official stand and a few select Belkin ones that were "certified". I'm pretty sure it was kind of a bullshit tactic to just get manufacturers to pay them a fee to get that "compatible with Pixel" status. It kind of made a stink when it first came out but nobody really seemed to care soon after. I'm currently still on the Pixel 3, do they still do this with newer ones? I've never really seen any news about it.

Yeah I've seen those before, notably on an Unbox Therapy video. That would probably be my closest chance, but I'll just stick with what I've got. Thanks for the help anyways guys!

ah that's true, I'd be fine with a dongle along with what I mentioned above but I guess that would be too niche for production. Plus the smaller the adapter, the less power and battery life they'll have. Unless I wanted to strap a Bluetooth car adapter to my head it's probably not worth it and just better to stick with wired or just get a headset that's already wireless.

There are products like these made for specific models: https://www.amazon.ca/Wireless-Bluetooth-QuietComfort-Headphones-Cancelling/dp/B07GTN6GRT/ref=sr_1_31?dchild=1&keywords=bluetooth+headphones+with+adapter&qid=1601249021&sr=8-31 https://www.amazon.ca/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-Comfort-Headphones/dp/B0786VF6PS/ref=sr_1_43?dchild=1&keywords=bluetooth+headphones+with+adapter&qid=1601249021&sr=8-43 But there are none for my headset, so I'd be stuck with more jank solutions like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Muswor-Bluetooth-Amplifier-QuietComfort-Headphones/dp/B07FYCVC2M/ref=pd_sbs_23_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07FYCVC2M&pd_rd_r=963e2605-406b-4099-bacc-d0c7d12e2bcd&pd_rd_w=hfcEN&pd_rd_wg=ZU49R&pf_rd_p=51202c9a-f9ab-4d97-ad76-aa53f0391454&pf_rd_r=JQYQB23NYRV5CDS3QS1R&psc=1&refRID=JQYQB23NYRV5CDS3QS1R https://www.amazon.ca/Bluetooth-Receiver-Hands-free-Headphones-Computers/dp/B01KV0WEI4/ref=pd_sbs_23_3/147-7740810-1897926?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01KV0WEI4&pd_rd_r=3785f02f-0a6e-45f0-b0bb-a77e8d485c77&pd_rd_w=gJHOl&pd_rd_wg=RyTLN&pf_rd_p=51202c9a-f9ab-4d97-ad76-aa53f0391454&pf_rd_r=KZ224REAR0PV1T8K390K&psc=1&refRID=KZ224REAR0PV1T8K390K My whole point was just wondering if anyone has found an actual decent solution. Is Bluetooth audio on Windows still bad? I know we've kinda jumped over the hurdle of mouse latency (not sure about keyboards) but I thought BT headsets have finally surpassed into the "good enough" category, there's tons of wireless gaming headsets for sale.

Looking to convert my pair of Logitech G433 headphones to wireless, but I'm having trouble looking for a good solution. I know some brands/third parties have made adapters for specific headsets but I haven't found any for my set. I tried one more generic-use MPOW transmitter but the cables that were included were way too thick to fit my headset. Logitech seems to have made the 3.5 jack hole on the set super thin, so your third-party choices are very limited. I would be fine with anything as long as it's not too expensive or terrible looking. I'll stick it to the side of the earcup if I have to. Has anyone done the same previously and have any advice? Or should I just sell this thing and get an out-of-the-box Bluetooth headset? I just like the look and feel of this thing too much to want to part with it.