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Tech4Dogs

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  1. The most straining stuff on the PC is video editing with Adobe Premier (sometimes 4k) and then gaming. Using two high framerate 1080p monitors and sometimes a 60fps 4k. I'm not cash limited but don't really want to spend more than $800-$1,000 on everything (ideally less than that). If it costs more than that I'd need to sell something and it would take a week or more to get the money. Anything I spend on this is less Christmas presents for the family.
  2. A day or so before the issue we had an outage and I noticed my UPS was not functioning properly (PC immediately lost power). The issue with booting didn't happen immediately after the outage but about a day later. After seeing it wouldn't boot I assumed it was the UPS and switched to a surge protector and it powered up. Worked for a few days then crashed. Then it would work for a few hours (up to 8 or so) and then crash. Today I tried intermittently over about 36 hours to get it to start. I do this by just switching the toggle switch on the back of the PSU and hit the power button. For a split second everything will power up and it will pause for a second and try again. The PC will try and start like this 1-3 times and then remains unresponsive until I reset the back of the powersupply. Today I spent about an hour cleaning it. Went through three 10oz compressed air cans and vacuumed. After that I used an anti-static brush to remove the rest of the dust. I unplugged everything except the CPU because it's attached with rigid watercooling. The computer was really dusty but after that cleaning it's still boot looping. I'm doubtful if it's a short caused by dust but will probably follow your suggestion and drain the loop and unplug the CPU and then clean again with ISO. I also cleared CMOS and replaced the MB battery. Still need to try to reflash the BIOS. After that I was gonna buy and test a new powersupply (just incase). It's still working right now but could crash any second. The MB is displaying code "AA" which should mean everything is good even though it almost certainly isn't. I'm gonna to update drivers and do some benchmarks and tests while it's still running.
  3. Thanks for the replies. Well that sucks. Really unfortunate this happens right before Christmas. I guess I'm left with only two options as I can't justify paying a fortune for a used x99 MB. Either buy one of the cheap Chinese no name boards that work with x99 or partially rebuild my system with a new chipset and CPU. I probably wouldn't transfer my watercooling stuff and would go with aircooling or an AIO. If I go with rebuilding the system what CPU and chipset would you guys recommend? (I would need it to perform the same or better as my previous system w/ 5960x) I haven't looked at PC stuff in years and need this resolved soon due to Christmas being around the corner. I rather not spend a fortune but also don't want a downgrade on my main system.
  4. I built my computer about 6 or 7 years ago. 5960x, 1080ti, X99 Deluxe MB, 32gb DDR4, AX1200 PSU and with a rigid custom watercooling loop. About a week ago I've had a serious issue with my PC ( It will try to boot 1-3 times then it won't attempt at all. I reset the switch on the back of PSU and hit power and same thing happens.) I've done some troubleshooting and I believe the issue is with the MB. However after about 24 hours of trying to get it to start it finally worked and this is what I'm typing on currently. However I'm expecting it to crash again soon. I haven't looked into PC component prices since my build. About 3 days ago the PC has had trouble booting and I believe it's likely the motherboard. Then I look into how much it would be to get a replacement motherboard (X99 Deluxe by Asus) and the same MB new is $1,600 on Newegg. Used prices are from $450-$650. Amazon has the X99 Deluxe II for $775. I believe I payed around $250 new 6 years ago. Because my PC has a ridged water-cooling loop I need the exact same MB otherwise I need to redo all the rigid tubing. Not only that I'm not 100% sure if the MB is faulty component. I'm confused. I know covid has increased the prices of chips but these prices are insane. Not only that, there are very few new x99 motherboards from the major brands. Is there a reason there are so few new X99 motherboards and why are they so expensive? Not sure if this is due to covid or the chipset has become outdated or something else?
  5. I can't remember the exact name it was the older version of the logitech G-700. I've had performance issues with refurbished one as well so switched to the G602 for now. I remember searching for this years ago and couldn't find anything either. It really doesn't make sense to me that a company wouldn't use all that space and put thumb buttons on a sideways type mouse. I find the thumb the easiest to maneuver accurately during game play. For now I ordered the Amazon version of the Logitech MX. It might be a pain the butt but I'll have to consider modifying it with micro switches for thumb buttons. Another idea some company should do is add "stick on" type buttons that you can add to any mouse. Some soldering required or bluetooth it doesn't matter. Sell them in rows of three and people add their own grid of buttons to their mouses.
  6. Today I noticed a large hard bump on the base of my thumb and it would appear it's from my mouse (switched to a different mouse a few months ago). My old mouse has not been made in years and its price new is way too much to consider getting again. I can't seem to find a ergonomic mouse (sideways type) with 6 or more thumb buttons. I have a hard time believing this doesn't exist but it appears that way. Something that has the sideways design similar to the Logitech MX Vertical but with a bunch of thumb buttons. I really need at least 6 though as that's what I've been using for almost a decade. There is so much space on those types of mouses near the thumb. It seems like such a waste not to have a grid of buttons there. Here is the type of design I'm talking about... https://www.logitech.com/en-us/product/mx-vertical-ergonomic-mouse
  7. Christmas is coming up and I'd like to buy myself a new monitor. Last night I tested my reaction times (humanbenchmark.com) on my ASUS PG279Q 144hz and my Samsung UE590 60hz 4k monitor. After about 30 tests on each monitor my reaction time was TWICE as fast on the 144hz panel. When using the 144hz monitor I'm seeing enemy's on my screen a full 0.1 seconds faster than my 60hz. That's an incredible advantage over players with 60HZ panels. I'm looking forward to testing the 240hz to see how much my speeds improve. I realize it won't be as drastic as 60hz to 144hz. If any of you that have multiple monitors with different refresh rates feel free to post your results here. Just wondering the average variance in reaction time between different refresh rate panels. I used humanbenchmark.com because they seem to be the standard for reaction time testing. Now my main question is which one (KD25F vs. XL2456) is better in terms of gaming performance? or what would you buy? Aorus KDF25F BenQ XL2456 Pretty much all the youtube reviews say that the Aorus KDF25F is a better monitor and has a slightly faster actual response time when tested. I just don't understand why the BenQ XL2456 is the overwhelming choice for esports gamers when the KD25F is $100 cheaper. Maybe it's cause the KDF25F is newer it's not as wide spread? I'm open to other choices of high performance monitors as long as it's 240hz. I would like to stick around $500 though. Thanks Mike
  8. I don't mind the look of his too much. The 90 degree fittings make it look good considering its a mini wc build.
  9. Water block for the GPU because it looks dumb having just the CPU cooled with rigid tubing.
  10. Magnets are a good idea. It would be harder for me to make but it would be a more premium option for firctionless movements. It would take some trial and error getting the right strength of magnets. The mouse would only need a thin sheet of steel over the bottom with a hole for the laser. I'm gonna go ahead and start making the air hockey style one just for fun. I'll use adhesive to mount a real mousepad on top of a sheet of 1/8th" plexiglass. Using a mill I'll add the perforations through the plexi/mousepad top. Once the top is done I can mount it to the top of air tight base also made of plexi. I have a bunch of aquarium pumps for the air supply. I doubt those will work though because more air pressure might be needed. I need to do some more research on air pumps. I'm sure I can find one for cheap that will work. I'll post some pics when it's finished. Shouldn't take too long to make with exception of milling the perforations. Times like this I wish I had a CNC.
  11. I wondering your thoughts on a "air hockey" style mouse pad. The mouse pad would be perforated to allow air flow, essentially turning your mouse pad into a mini air hockey table. This would in theory provide near friction-less mouse movement along with giving your hands some cool air flow as well. The only potential downside would be noise from air exiting the perforated mouse pad. If you were using headphones it might be none issue. Have any of you seen something similar to this? or have any thoughts about it?
  12. I have recently put a desktop PC in my shop which is not heated. This computer is air cooled but it got me thinking... Has anybody left a water cooled computer in frozen temperatures for an extended period of time? and did anything break? I imagine AOI with rubber tubing could probably withstand below freezing temps?
  13. I've always wanted a portable PC for extended trips. I really like this Lian Li Q37 Mini ITX case. I would like to mount a display in the location below on the opposite side of the glass panel. Does anyone body have the dimensions below? I'm curious what size monitor can fit that rectangular area? This is a 5x3" monitor. I'd like to fit the largest I can. (The picture below is not to scale.) I'd like to connect it directly to MB using HDMI to USB 3.0 cable or something of the sor. https://i.imgur.com/dkNZqbq.jpg Can anyone with this case take these dimensions? The components will look something like this. It should be around $3,500 w/ CPU/GPU water cooling and rigid tubing. PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Q9Xbhg CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($471.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock Z390 Phantom Gaming-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard ($169.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($169.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Intel 660p Series 2.048 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($204.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB ROG Strix Gaming OC Video Card ($1279.99 @ Best Buy) Case: Lian Li PC-Q37 Mini ITX Tower Case ($336.13 @ Amazon) Power Supply: Corsair SF 600 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply ($139.00 @ Amazon) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($139.99 @ Other World Computing) Total: $2912.07 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-11-20 20:37 EST-0500
  14. About 10 years ago I had an 8 camera CCTV system w/ DVR wired through my home. I'm considering expanding my system and would like to know how you guys would put something like this together. I plan to have new cameras feed into a PC rather than a DVR. I've been researching the best BUS and how to connect that to the pc. It appears that "Power over Ethernet" is my best option as it provides both power and a high bandwidth. Would a POE switch like this work? And does all 16x camera data travel back to the PC over one ethernet port? https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16833122991?Description=POE switch 16&cm_re=POE_switch_16-_-33-122-991-_-Product Do you think a Dell Optiplex with i5, 8gb ram, 1tb HDD be able to handle a 16x camera system? Or is better hardware needed? It's my first time setting up a system like this so any advice is appreciated Mike
  15. I saw this on NewEgg right now and though it might be a good deal and reviews all 5 stars. It's much cheaper than your budge though. https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16824025512?Description=4k IPS&cm_re=4k_IPS-_-24-025-512-_-Product There are two main types of panels. TN and IPS. The TN panels are generally cheaper, have worse color accuracy, worse viewing angles but higher framerates than IPS panel. So you probably are looking for a mid to high end range IPS. I'm not up to date on current models so hopefully someone else will chime in. If you haven't yet make sure your GPU is powerful enough to get a stable 60 FPS. My 1080ti works well for that but my 980 would often get 40 FPS in 4k gaming on demanding games.
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