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Meganter

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  1. Like
    Meganter reacted to Eschew in Leopold FC660C w/ Topre Silent 45g   
    SEEEXYYY!!!

     
    [Clears throat.] 
     
    Love the attention to detail in this review! Switches, yes, but also keycaps/legends, stabilizers, and cabling. Little things absolutely matter when you're dishing out unnecessarily big dollars for a good experience.
     
    Also, I 100% your description of the Topre typing feel. I might even prefer the Topres over mechanical tactile switches? Although, that's not saying much, considering I've only ever experienced one other tactile -- the Hako Royal Clears. First time I pushed down on a Hako Royal Clear and felt that super sharp bump, I was like, "Oh. Hm... Okay. Tactiles are kinda... not my thing." Then, when I tried the Topres, I was tempted to call them linears at first 'cos they felt sooo different from the Hako Royal Clears. Comparing the Topres to my other linear switches pointed out the Topre's soft tactie bump to my dumbo brain. Dumbo brain then went, "Oh, heeey. I like this. Topres are now my thing."
     
    ...Oh no your review left me excited. I'ma shush up now. 😆
     
    #TopreGang!

  2. Like
    Meganter reacted to Mateyyy in Leopold FC660C w/ Topre Silent 45g   
    Coming in at $249, the Leopold FC660C doesn't try to justify its premium positioning with features like RGB, backlighting, software, USB passthroughs, a metal build - things you'd find in many prebuilt, primarily gaming oriented keyboards at this kind of a price point.
    Instead, Leopold seems to have primarily focused on the typing experience that this board offers, and let that do the talking. But will that be enough to warrant the asking price?
     

     
    Beside the keyboard itself, there's not a whole lot in the way of accessories included in the box. You're looking at just a manual, a bog standard USB-A to mini USB-B cable (nope, no USB-C here) and a couple of extra, replacement keycaps.
     

     
    Speaking of which, the FC660C's keycaps are dye-sublimated and made out of PBT plastic, with the exception of the spacebar which is ABS. The profile is somewhere between OEM and Cherry, and will therefore feel very familiar from the moment you take it out of the box and start typing.
     

     
    As you may or may not have noticed, the legends on these keycaps are really not all that prominent. In fact, from some angles or under certain lighting conditions, they'll almost look like blanks. If you ask me, that just adds to the overall stealthy look of this board, which I'm really into.
     

     
    If you rely on the legends when typing however, these keycaps will be far from optimal. The fact that aftermarket Topre compatible keycaps are quite scarce also doesn't help, so that's definitely something to take note of, as far as the black on black variant of the FC660C is concerned. If you're into modding though, you could get some MX sliders and make your board compatible with any MX style keycaps of your liking!
     
    Now, let's talk Topre. Technically, these are electrostatic capacitive non-contact switches. In layman's terms, these are the rich man's rubber domes.
     

     
    In the case of my personal board, these are 45g silenced Topre switches. Non-silenced Topre will have a black housing, as opposed to purple.
     
    So... how do they feel? Are they really good enough to make spending this much on a seemingly uninteresting prebuilt justifiable?
    Before I comment on that, I'd just like to make clear that this is just my own personal opinion. Preferred keyboard switches are totally a matter of personal taste, and trying them out before you go out and buy them is highly recommended.
     

     
    Typing on this keyboard is an absolute joy. Coming from Cherry MX Browns, it really was a pleasure to get to feel a proper tactile switch. 
    I've yet to find a better, short explanation than to say that typing on this keyboard feels like typing on clouds, with a really deliberate, thocky resistance at the end when bottoming out, that then pushes back your finger on the way up with a subtle, distinctive sound. Hopefully that at least kind of makes sense.
     
    With these switches, this board is really quiet. The stabilisers are also very good - I've only noticed a tiny bit of rattle on the backspace key, but that's about it.
     

     
    Actually, since I mentioned that it's quiet... why not include a sound test?
     
    I actually even type considerably faster on these switches as opposed to my previous MX Browns, which really was quite surprising.
    They're also fine for gaming, I feel. Lots of people seem to think that gaming requires the really light keyboard switches for some reason, but I wholeheartedly disagree with that. Double tapping keys felt a little odd at first, which took me back to when I first switched to a mechanical keyboard from a cheap old membrane, though I got used to it quickly.
     

     
    With all of that said, do I think that the Leopold FC660C was worth the premium? I'd say so.
    Typing on it feels amazing, it's quiet, portable, and also looks good despite not being flashy in the slightest. I guess the lack of USB-C could be considered a con, though I really don't see why that would be a deal-breaker for anybody.
    Oh, and it might also make you hate your old keyboard. Don't say I didn't warn you.
  3. Like
    Meganter reacted to soldier_ph in Show off your latest purchases   
    Yubico Yubikey 5Ci MFA key with USB C and Lightning:

    2 x 12 SBS work gloves, 2x Philips OneBlade replacement Heads, a small transparent Travel Bag, a Pencil Sharpener and a 20 pack of Cable clips in different sizes:

    All of this including the two Noctua Hoodies were bought from Amazon.
  4. Like
    Meganter reacted to soldier_ph in Show off your latest purchases   
    SpaceX Merch:






    The Loot includes: Occupy Mars T-shirt, Luggage Tag Set with the Drone Ship inspired Tags "Just Read the Instructions" and "Of course I Still Love You", Dragon docking at the ISS Sweatshirt, Falcon Heavy Zipper Hoodie, Falcon 9 Zipper Hoodie, Dragon Zipper Hoodie and SpaceX Zipper Hoodie. I will also get Merch from Tesla, GamersNexus and MKBHD once everything is in stock that I want.
  5. Like
    Meganter reacted to atxcyclist in cat thread   
    It’s getting cold, but he always finds the warmest spot in the house.

  6. Like
    Meganter reacted to Red :) in cat thread   
  7. Agree
    Meganter reacted to The Blackhat in Corsair RMx or Fractal Desion ION+   
    No. No, no, no, no, and no. No CPU on AM4 pulls more power than can be supplied by a single 8 pin with decent cabling. The only thing that even comes close is a 3950X or 5950X on LN2, and even then it isn't actually necessary. At that point it's more a decision if the mobo has the pins to handle it.
  8. Agree
    Meganter reacted to Mateyyy in Help identifying noctua cooler   
    Looks like an NH-U12P to me.
  9. Like
    Meganter reacted to Haro in Build Log - Eighty #391   
    Tis looks great! 
    Grats on ze new Keeb.   
  10. Like
    Meganter got a reaction from Oswin in Build Log - Eighty #391   
    No u.
     
    Nice build, I would never be able to use that  
  11. Like
    Meganter got a reaction from Eschew in Build Log - Eighty #391   
    No u.
     
    Nice build, I would never be able to use that  
  12. Agree
    Meganter reacted to TVwazhere in How do i increase the fps of my GTX1660ti by 90%?   
    You cannot overclock the 1660ti to be 90% faster. If you want better fps, you need to either lower the graphics settings in your games, or get a better GPU. Those are your two options. 
  13. Like
    Meganter got a reaction from Haro in Build Log - Eighty #391   
    No u.
     
    Nice build, I would never be able to use that  
  14. Like
    Meganter reacted to Eschew in Build Log - Eighty #391   
    Introduction
    Hey there! Welcome to ‘Chew’s keeb build log, please enjoy your stay! 😁
     
    The goal here is perfection -- assembling the best keeb that'll satisfy my Petty and Stupidly Specific Desires™ (PASSD).
     
    'Chew's Keeb Desires
    Green: Nonnegotiable Preferences ("Need"). | Blue: Preferred Preferences ("Want").
    Size, Layout: TKL, ANSI. Case: Metallic Construction. High-Profile, Angled. Matte Black. Plate: Black/Chrome. Standard Bottom Row (6.25U Spacebar). Tsangan Bottom Row (7U Spacebar). PCB: Hotswap. Standard Bottom Row (6.25U Spacebar). Tsangan Bottom Row (7U Spacebar). Switches: Linear. Black (Color). Stabilizers: Black (Color). Keycaps: Blank. Matte Black. Acoustics: Thock Thock Thock!  
    Custom TKLs are surprisingly uncommon outside of Group Buys (er, AFAIK?). I’m aware of the Phantom PCB + Tex/Filco Aluminum Case TKL custom build, but: one, that build wouldn’t pass my PASSDs, and two, I’m very uninterested in super-generic configs built from ‘there was no other option’ reasons. Keep in mind that I already have a semi-custom -- a The GMMK TKL -- and while I do love me muh keebs (#KeebWeebClub!), having a board that has the same features or that looks the same as my existing one isn’t too exciting. 🤔
     
    So!
     
    For suffering #KeebWeebs in the TKL camp, we wait... and wait... and wait... until a limited run production or a Group Buy opens up.
    AND THEN WE FLING MONEY AT THE PROBLEM AT MACH SPEED AND LAUGH MANIACALLY AND CRY ABOUT IT LATER.
     
    Mode Designs happened to be holding a Group Buy for their Eighty (Pre-Order), and while one that did interest me at first, I later came across their First Edition Eighty. Then self-control went POOF! Aaand... Wallet also went POOF!, lol.
     
     
    Current Parts List
    Component Selection Price PCB Mode Designs Eighty Hotswap PCB (MODE80H PCB v1.1) $650.00 Case Mode Designs First Edition Eighty Case (Dark)   Mounting Plate Mode Designs Anodized Aluminum Mounting Plate   Switches Modded Silent L7 (TS-150g) Switches
    (Durock L7 Switches - Housings)
    (Gazzew/Outemu Silent Linear Stems)
    (Flashquark Two Stage Long Springs (150g))
    (Krytox 205 G0)
    (Deskeys Switch Films)
     
    Modded Ink Black (150g) Switches
    (Gateron Ink Black Switches - Stems + Housings)
    (24K Gold-Plated SPRiT Springs (150g))
    (Krytox 205 G0)
    (Deskeys Switch Films)
     
    Modded BOX Heavy Black Switches
    (Kailh BOX Black Switches - Stems + Top Housings)
    (Hako Royal Clear Switches - Bottom Housings)
    (Kailh BOX Ancient Gray Switches - Springs)
    $60.45 + $23.25 + $9.30
    $70.13 + $10.20 + $6.00
    $30.00 + $53.00 + $34.95
    Stabilizers Durock Screw-In Stabilizers (V1) $17.00 Keycaps EnjoyPBT Blank Black PBT OEM-Profile Keycaps
    /dev/tty MT3-Profile Keycaps (Bleached)
    $39.00
    $55.00
    Cable Custom Double Sleeve Cable w/GX16 Aviator Connectors
    Braided USB Type-C to USB Type-A Cable
    $69.00         Grand Total $1127.28   (Shipping and Taxes Excluded)    
    Parts Update History
     
     
    Assembly
    Used the resources below, 'cos 'Chew is still a #KeebNewb:
    Using Screw-In Stabilizers from Keyboard University. Mode Eighty Assembly Guide from Mode Designs.  
    Stabilizer Assembly
    10 × Stabilizer Housings 10 × Stabilizer Stems 4 × 2U Stabilizer Wires 1 × 6.25U Stabilizer Wire  

    Durock Screw-In Stabilizers (V1)
    Specifically picked these 'cos black.
    Drink every time I mention black, kek. 🍻
     

    Stabilizer Stem + Stabilizer Housing
    Left: "Hook-Side." Right: "Screw Hole-Side."
     

    Stabilizer Housing + Stabilizer Stem
    Stem fits in one-way into the housing, thanks to the protrusion/notch-thingy in the top-right corner of the inner housing and the stem's bottom.
     

    Stabilizer Housing + Stabilizer Wire
    Wire slides into the bottom opening of the stem, and locks into the housing with a distinct click. Repeat the slide-and-click with wire's other end.
     

    Durock Screw-In Stabilizers (V1) Assembled!
    Yoooooo they look really pog in person?! 
     
    Keyboard Assembly
    1 × Eighty Top Case 1 × Eighty Bottom Case/Weight 1 × Eighty PCB (MODE80H PCB v1.1) 1 × USB Type-C Daughterboard 1 × Daughterboard Cable 1 × USB Type-C Cable 1 × Middle Gasket 1 × Bottom Gasket 4 x 2U Stabilizers 1 × 6.25U Stabilizer 87 × MX-Style Switches 87 × MX-Stem Keycaps  

    First Edition Eighty (Dark) - Unboxed!
    It's. All. Black!
    [GIDDY NOISES!]
     

    First Edition Eighty - Case Bottom
    Pls notice three things:
    One, the entire bottom of the case is an absolutely gorgeous tinted mirrored finish.
    Two, the sheer weight of the unassembled keeb is enough to squishy the lime plushie.
    Three, Danbo be cute.
     
    Disassembly
    Take things apart to put things together!
     

    First Edition Eighty - Bottom Case Removal
    Starting with the three internal hex screws -- that's right, only three well-placed fasteners hold the entire hefty keeb together! 💪
    I seriously love design/architecture that's both minimalist and efficient.
     

    First Edition Eighty - Bottom Case Removal
    ~Spinny spinny spinny~
     

    First Edition Eighty - Bottom Case Removal
    Once the three screws are loose, the bottom case/weight raises itself up of its own accord. 
     

    First Edition Eighty - Bottom Case Removed
    Top: Bottom Case/Weight (Other Side). Bottom: PCB Sandwich.
    Eighty #391. There be only one First Edition Eighty keeb with that engraving, and it be mine!
     

    Eighty #391 - PCB (Bottom)
    Black be beauuutiful!
     

    Eighty #391 - Top Case + Bottom Case/Weight + PCB Sandwich
    The #391 engraving is on both parts of the case!
     

    Eighty #391 - PCB Sandwich
    Aluminum Mounting Plate + Middle Gasket + PCB.
    Bottom gasket be off-screen, chilling on my unused GMMK, kek.
     

    Eighty #391 - MODE80H PCB v1.1
    👀
     
    Assembly
    ...Reverse disassembly? 🤔
     

    Eighty #391 - USB Type-C Daughterboard
    Plug JST connector thingy into USB Type-C potato chip, then stick the potato chip into the bottom case’s convenient cubby hole with the toiny hex tool.
     

    Eighty #391 - USB Type-C Daughterboard
    ~Mooore spinny spinny spinny~
     

    Eighty #391 - PCB Sandwich
    Silly me didn’t realize that the PCB sandwich was held together by the eight chrome screws at first. Luckily I noticed before I ripped anything, ahahaha... 
    Gotta remove the PCB from the mounting plate and gasket sandwich to install the stabilizers.
     

    Eighty #391 - PCB + Screw-In Stabilizers
    Stabilizers aligned with the holes they go into.
    Dooon’t worry about the Enter key stabilizer, I... er... definitely placed it the wrong way on purpose... definitely... hahaha... I’m a #KeebNewb can you tell.
     

    Eighty #391 - Screw-In Stabilizers Installation
     The stabilizer’s plastic hook-side goes into the bicc hole, and the screw hole-side goes into the smol hole. Slide the hook-side in at an angle, then push down gently-but-firmly down on the screw hole-side. Sorta like installing M.2 SSDs?
     

    Eighty #391 - Screw-In Stabilizers Installation
    It’s done right when the stabilizer’s housings lie flush along the PCB.
    The hook-side definitely does not fit in the smol hole. I... er... definitely didn’t spend five minutes figuring that out. 
     

    Eighty #391 - Screw-In Stabilizers Installation
    Finish securing the stabilizers into the PCB by screwing them in from the bottom.
    Heh.
     

    Eighty #391 - Screw-In Stabilizers Installed
    So. Freaking. Clean.
     

    Eighty #391 - Mounting Plate + Switches
    Putting a couple’a switches in first to double-check alignment during the PCB sandwich assembly (reassembly?).
    Also pls notice the Modded Kailh BOX Black switches’ black housing, TY TY.
     

    Eighty #391 - Mounting Plate + Switches + Middle Gasket
    ...TBH, ’Chew didn’t know what a gasket looked like until yesterday.
    I always imagined it was a more mechanical part, like a piston, lol.
     

    Eighty #391 - PCB Sandwich + Alignment Switches
    Pls ignore the bottom switch in the Right Ctrl key position, it’s in the incorrect position for standard bottom row layout, lololol.
     

    Eighty #391 - PCB Sandwich + Modded Kailh BOX Black Switches
    Yuuusss!
    The convenience of hotswap is too good! But. Muh fingers. They hurt. 😂
     

    Eighty #391 - Top Case + Bottom Case/Weight + USB Type-C Daughterboard + PCB Switch Sandwich
     Ooooh! It's coming together!
     

    Eighty #391 - Top Case + PCB Sandwich + Bottom Gasket Reassembly
    Yum. 🥪😋
     

    Eighty #391 - Daughterboard-to-PCB Connection
    A lil’ bit finnicky, but easy enough. But mebbe don’t do it with gloves on, kek.
     

    Eighty #391 - Bottom Case/Weight Reassembly
    ~The final spinny spinny spinny~
    Seriously. Three screws. Damn, I love it so much, hrrrnnng...!
     

    Eighty #391 + Modded Kailh BOX Black Switches
    Hmmm... Can’t help but think it’d look better with a certain set of switches with smokey-black housings.
     

    Eighty #391 + Blank Black Keycaps - All Assembled!
    The black of the case and the black of the keycaps do look a little bit off, especially under this yellow-ish lighting and from a top-down angle.
     

    Eighty #391
    Danbo: ...?
    Nyanbo: 🎶
     

    Current Desk Setup!
    Hecc ye.
     
     
    Sound Samples
     
     
    Legacy Sound Samples
    Sound samples recorded with the phone. Expect terrible audio quality. 
     
    Current-ish Sound Samples
    Sound samples recorded with the Antlion Mod Mic. Expect less-terrible audio quality. 
     
     
    Closing Comments
     'CHEW IS ECSTATIC! 
     
    The Mode Eighty is more than just a typing tool or some brag-worthy luxury item for me. I mean, I do enjoy typing very very much, and I admit I like to feed my materialism/pride sometimes. But getting hands-on building experience is also a valuable learning experience, and fresh, interesting discoveries give me a lotta life. 😁 It's one thing to read up on something from secondhand sources, it's another feeling entirely to actually do it in person. And fumbling around unexpected mishaps is also quite humbling, hehe.
     
    I've gushed about the Eighty in the pics above, and while I do think it is a great keeb (in my biased opinon, kek), I did find some gripes with it:
    Build Finish: Overall, the keyboard kit is a thoughtfully designed, hefty piece of work, and very sturdily built. The build quality is good. However, for $650, "good" doesn't quite meet my expectations. I expected phenomenal, and I have to admit, I am a little bit let down. Most noticeable are the small dings and machining marks on the Bottom Case/Weight. The imperfections are inconsequential to the board's performance and top-down aesthetics, but knowing that they exist eh... it's kinda disappointing. Switch Aesthetics: To me, every part of this keyboard matters. That includes parts that I don't see on a daily basis, like the Kailh BOX Black's clear top housing, which sticks out like a sore thumb from keyboard's all-black theme. Switch Weight: Ahhh... Shoot. Now that I've gotten spoiled off on the Kailh BOX Ancient Grays, the Kailh BOX Black's 60g(?) springs feel waaay too light for my fingers. 😫 Resistance! I want more resistance! Also, I want more thock. I'm thinking heavier springs might deepen the thock sound? At least, it did (or I think it did) when I replaced the BOX Blacks with the BOX Ancient Grays on my The GMMK TKL. 🤔 Braided Cable: Having a limpy length of cable wiggling around on my precious desk space kiiinda disturbs the premium-y aesthetics of the keyboard. Been eyeing some matte black cables for a while, just have to confirm some measurements. 👀  
    Sooo now there's a bunch of new stuff I wanna get, right after I've already bought new stuff. 😆
     
    ...
    I tried to write "'Chew spends in moderation" just now, but that is very not true. 
    'Chew does try to be financially responsible and only spends as much as she feels she can handle, m'kaaay.
    🍻 Drink responsibly! Spend responsibly! 
     
    And thank you very much for reading! 
    ...It's 2 AM why am I still awake gonna go faint now byeee.
  15. Like
    Meganter reacted to PaddyFR in Black + a bit of RGB for new RTX 3080 build   
    Had lots of fun making this one  Very happy with the EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3. The undervolt is insane, virtually performance and -7 to -10°C GPU temps.


    MB : MSI X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI
    CPU : Amd Ryzen 7 3700X - (OC Enhanced Mode 3)
    CPU Cooler : Noctua NH-D15
    GPU : EVGA RTX 3080 FTW3
    PSU : Seasonic Focus 850W Platinum
    RAM : 16Gox2 3200Mhz
    SSD : Sabrent Rocket Q NVMe 2To

    Here are some pics !


     
     
     

     
     
     
     
  16. Like
    Meganter reacted to A1200 in Party Like it's 2019! Aorus Intel / Nvidia Build   
    Intro

    I have updated Home Workstation V3 (even though I said I would do a scratch build next – I am full of BS). The reason for a new thread is the GPU, Motherboard, Monitor, KBD & Mouse are the same brand now so its now a Gigabyte Aorus build and so really is a themed build as opposed to throw a bunch of stuff together from random vendors type-build. In 2019 this was the specification of the ultimate single GPU gaming rig - what a difference a year makes! In 2020, it still can play with the newer CPU/GPUs on AAA titles without being left too far behind. I was thinking about a Gigabyte/Aorus case, cooler and RAM to properly finish off the look but the Corsair and Noctua components do a wonderful job I will leave the build as a trio of brands - a quintet if you include Intel and Samsung!
     
    Specifications
     
    CPU: Intel i9 9900kf Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus Z390 Pro RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 64GB (4x16 GB) DDR4 3200MHz C16 GPU: Gigabyte Aorus GeForce RTX 2080 ti Xtreme 11G Case: Corsair 275R Airflow Storage: (OS) Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB / (Data) Samsung 860 EVO 1TB PSU: Corsair RM750x 80 PLUS Gold 750W Display: Aorus FI27Q-P Cooling: Noctua NH-D15 CPU + 4x NF-S12A PWM case fans Keyboard: Aorus K1 Mouse: Aorus M3 / Aorus AMP500 pad Sound: Onboard HD Audio Headset: Aorus H5 Operating System: Win 10 Pro 64 Bit  
    Benchmarks
     
    Stable CPU all-core OC at 5.1GHz / RAM OC at 3600MHz C16 / GPU using Aorus Engine to set boost to 1900MHz & Memory clock to 16000MHz to achieve the following benchmarks:

    CPU-Z: https://valid.x86.fr/xwht7d
    Passmark: https://www.passmark.com/baselines/V10/display.php?id=133093128271
    Basemark GPU: https://powerboard.basemark.com/benchmark-result/868105
    3DMark Time Spy: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/55634449 
    3DMark Time Spy Extreme: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/55655576
    PCMark 10: https://www.3dmark.com/pcm10/53901645
    Blender BMW CPU: https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/1e1b3d36-1087-49d9-b9b3-2ae177467654/
    Blender BMW GPU (Optix): https://opendata.blender.org/benchmarks/3259b48b-b860-46d0-bfc9-4963f5b55bee/
    UBM: https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/37545145
    Geekbench 5 CPU: https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/cpu/5087816
    Geekbench 5 GPU (Cuda): https://browser.geekbench.com/v5/compute/1969429
    Bright Memory - Infinite RTX Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) FPS: 192
    Resident Evil 6 Benchmark (Max settings @ 1920x1080) Score: 35039
    Unigine Heaven Benchmark 4.0 DX11 (Max settings @ 1920x1080) Min/Max/Avg FPS - Score: 41.8/414.9/198.2 - 4993
    Cinebench Release 23 Multi Core: 13607
    Cinebench Release 23 Single Core: 1336
    FurMark Preset 1080 (FHD / Fullscreen): https://gpuscore.top/furmark/show.php?id=244239
    FurMark Preset 1440 (QHD / Fullscreen): https://gpuscore.top/furmark/show.php?id=244240
     
    Pictures
     







  17. Like
    Meganter reacted to isHypnophobic in [Build Log] Illya v2.0 - The Tiny Titan [RTX 3090 x Sliger SM580]   
    Indeed! But yeah, it was a bit too close for comfort but I'm taking it as a win 🙌
  18. Funny
  19. Like
    Meganter reacted to isHypnophobic in [Build Log] Illya v2.0 - The Tiny Titan [RTX 3090 x Sliger SM580]   
    Update #1 [11/30/2020] Photo Op and Test Fit with the RTX 3090
     
    I actually received the 3090 back in October, looking back I should've started the build log back then--but I had some sort of anxiety since I've not logged into LTT in years. But what matters is that I'm here now! Here are some photos--I haven't taken photos in months so this was a good treat for me:





     
    Onto the test fit:
    So after contacting Sliger both on the phone and online, I was pleased to hear that their SM580 can accommodate the RTX 3090. Here are some test fits photos:
     

     
    It's almost comedic how this thing fits:


     
    About 3mm clearance realistically when I measured. I'm glad I was able to nab a Founder's Edition otherwise I don't think anything else would fit.
     
    Overall a good day, I've gotten over that slump of writing/starting this build log! See you all on the next update
     
  20. Like
    Meganter reacted to isHypnophobic in [Build Log] Illya v2.0 - The Tiny Titan [RTX 3090 x Sliger SM580]   
    Build Log: Illya v2.0, The Tiny Titan

    Good Evening LTT! It's been about 7 years now since my first ever personal rig build--since then I've graduated, started a job, built hundreds of PCs as a side-job. With all the changes and growth I've gone through all these years, I've decided to put all I have learned into this machine. The main guideline I have for this build is: Build a small, compact desktop that deceptively outputs performance inversely proportional to her size.
     
    Illya version 2 will be a high-ish end desktop that is still built around the mITX Mobo form factor. However, in contrast with her first form (a mid-tower mITX Prodigy), I've decided to follow the way of the SFFPC--I shall attempt to place all this raw power into a sub 20-liter case. After months of looking for such a case that can also house a triple slot 3090FE--I finally found the answer: Sliger's SM580.
     
    I need Illya v2.0 to handle my tech hobbies and real life work: 3440x1440 +100FPS Gaming, Blender 3D renders, Editing my photography (Lightroom and Photoshop), and Unreal Editor (both v4 and v5 now).
     
    In my early years, I've always been wary of watercooling--"Oh another point of failure" or "It'll leak all over," I thought. I even held a sort of disdain for it in my first build log here on LTT. After a good half-a-decade I started to pivot from this view as I started my full time job and subsequently a part-time job building custom PCs for clients. AIOs are pretty safe, some even have great full-PC replacement warranties to boot. Plus, if I'm trying to cram in all this performance in a 15.9 liter case, water is pretty much the only way to go.
     
    In summary/tl:dr: Combine a 15.9 liter case (SM580) with an RTX 3090 and an old i7-8700k @5GHz on all cores whilst trying not to make this baby burn.
     
    *******************************************************
    Illya v2.0's Parts List
    *******************************************************
    Case:                                     Sliger SM580 (Dual Acrylic Panel version)
     
    CPU:                                      Intel i7-8700K (Delidded and Liquid Metal'd via Silicon Lottery)

    GPU:                                      Nvidia RTX 3090 Founder's Edition

    CPU Cooler:                        NZXT Kraken Z63
     
    Motherboard:                    AsRock Z390 Phantom Gaming ITXac
     
    RAM:                                     HyperX Predator RGB 32GB @3600MHz
     
    Boot NVME:                        Samsung 970 EVO Plus 500GB M.2 NVME 
     
    Main Games NVME:       Crucial P5 1TB M.2 NVME 

    Auxiliary Games SSD:   ADATA SU800 2TB SSD
     
    Data Storage SSD:           Samsung 860 QVO 4TB SSD
     
    Radiator Fans:                  2x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM
     
    Intake Fans:                       2x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-3000 PWM
     
    PSU:                                      Corsair SF750
     
    PSU Cables:                       Custom made by DreambigByRay (Etsy)
     
    *******************************************************
    Updates Below:

    I'll update this as I go. I'm just having fun taking it slow and steady. I'll add updates below as well like my last build log. See you in the next update!

    Update #1 [11/30/2020] Photo Op and Test Fit with the RTX 3090
    Update #2 [12/04/2020] Custom PSU Cables and Vinyl Wrapping the SM580
     
    Update #3 [12/21/2020] Meet The Components

    Update #4 [03/18/2021] Retroactive Build Process Part 1 (RGB-ing the Noctuas)
     
  21. Like
    Meganter reacted to Ashley MLP Fangirl in iPhone 6s goodbye review - 2020   
    Introduction 
    It’s been almost exactly a year since I’ve bought my iPhone 6s, and for a €130 phone at the time it’s served me very well, although it’s now getting replaced with an iPhone SE. this will be a reflection on the past year using this phone and the reasons why i'm upgrading. 
     
     
    Why did I stop using it?
    Basically, it started developing faults. The silencer switch is broken, the touchscreen messes up sometimes and you have to lock the phone and unlock it to make it behave, the touchid forgets my fingerprints relatively quickly for some reason and worst of all the lightning port has become very loose. 
     
    Now, some of these things have been present (in less severe occurrences) since I’ve had it, but it’s gotten to the point where it can be irritating to use it sometimes. 
     
    Especially the charging port thing. My phone lays next to my pillow at night playing YouTube video’s, and I’ve had the charging port stop working in the middle of the night a few times now, causing the battery to die and my alarm not going off in the morning, which obviously causes issues. 
     
     
    Was it still good besides the faults?
    Yeah. If it didn’t develop the faults it has I would not have replaced it. Mind you, it’ll still be a secondary device. I’m still gonna use it for YouTube in bed and stuff, it just won’t be my alarm clock anymore for obvious reasons. It will also be used for random apps that I don’t want on my main phone for clutter/storage reasons and I’ll probably use it for bluetooth music playback and stuff when I go out so I don’t strain my SE’s battery too much. It’s gonna basically be an iPod Touch for me now. And for that it’s still fine. It still feels speedy and responsive during most tasks, it’s certainly not annoyingly slow. 
     
     
    Is the 6s still a good buy in 2020?
    Yes, if you can find one for cheap and it’s not faulty. It’s still fast enough for most uses, and with a new battery it still lasts a decent while. Avoid the 16gb model though, it’s useless. 
     
     
    Conclusion
    I’ve really enjoyed using this phone for the past year, and if I didn’t have a good opportunity to upgrade (got a new phone contract with an SE) I wouldn’t have replaced it, but instead got the lightning port fixed. But, since I had the opportunity to upgrade I thought I might as well. 
     
    Still though, this is a great phone still and the last iPhone with a headphone jack, which I’m sure matters to some people, and still a good buy if you find one for a very good price.
  22. Funny
    Meganter reacted to WereCatf in Please for the love of God stop using the term "PC Master Race"   
    Seagate, Western Digital, Kingston etc. right about now:

  23. Funny
    Meganter reacted to Mateyyy in Please for the love of God stop using the term "PC Master Race"   
    So all this time, SSD has stood for Schutzstaffel drive? I knew it!
  24. Like
    Meganter reacted to Giga-Moose in Finally got the RTX 3090 Strix OC & AMD 5950x on water :-)   
    CPU: Amd 5950x
    MB: ASUS X570 ROG Crosshair VIII Formula 
    Ram: 64gb Crucial Ballistix MAX 4400
    SSD: Samsung 980 pro 512gb / Samsung 970 Evo 2tb / Samsung 860 Evo 4tb
    GPU: ASUS 3090 Strix OC
    Case: Lian-Li 011 dynamic
    PSU: Corsair AX1600i



  25. Like
    Meganter reacted to delta59 in 1966 Hickok sweep generator case mod   
    Hello everyone! I had a old 1966 Hickok sweep generator that didn't work so I decided to give it new life as my daily driver.

     

    test.mp4 Case operation: The Blanking and XTAL toggle switches are power and reset. The Marker MOD toggle switch controls the lights to the frequency dials and the Marker function selector switch controls the case fan speeds. There are lot of other switches to use, I kept them all functional, but not many other functions to hook them up to sadly.
     

    I started by disassembling the case, removing the components, and cleaning up the front plate.
     

    I then added LEDs to the frequency dials.
     

    Next I laid out out all my components and marked all the holes and cutouts.
     

    I used a nibbler cutout the PSU mount.
     
     
    The case was mostly made of copper and thin steel which made it great for cutting out custom holes.
     

    IO sheild cutout.
     

    I crafted custom IO shields and mounts inside the case out of perforated copper.
     

    IO shield mounted on the inside.
     

    I added 4-120mm Noctua fans. I created a template in CAD for drilling out the holes.
     

    All the cutouts are complete.
     

    Mounting the case fans, drives, and PSU. The bottom and right fans pull air in the case and the top two fans exhaust. I have two 4tb spin drives and Raid 1, one 1tb sdd, and two M.2 1tb drives on the mobo.
     

    Routing all the cables was a challenge in the size of a case but this build was about the exterior and not the interior. I could be a bit sloppy as long as it didn't mess the airflow too much.
     

    It lives!!!
     

    I wanted to use as many of the switches as I could in the build. I replaced the Blanking and XTAL toggle switch with momentary toggle switches and used them for power and reset. The Marker toggle switch was wired for the LEDs on the frequency dials. The old pilot light was connected to the chassis so I isolated it from the standoff and connected it to the power light on the motherboard. Lastly, I was using the Noctua FLX fans so I wired low speed adaptor in parallel with the power cable using the Marker function selector switch. Its nice to be able to have a quite case when I'm not gaming.
     

    Lastly, I installed two more USB ports on the top of the case for my headset and phone.
     

     
    Specs:
    MSI X570 MPG gaming
    AMD 5800x
    32gb ram 3200mhz
    GTX 1080 (someday it will be a 6800xt)
    2 - 1tb M.2
    2 - 4tb spinners in Raid 1
    1 - 1tb ssd
     
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