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DumboDodo

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Everything posted by DumboDodo

  1. Simply put, the FN keys that have to do with media don't work, except the volume up and volume down (and mute) keys. However, even though they're the only ones that work, they don't show the volume slider like the used to. This has been around for quite some time and I have been ignoring it but it's starting to really trouble me now. If I remember correctly, I accidentally caused it when I was fucking around in the sound control system because I couldn't use my bluetooth headphones as an Output and Input at the same time. TL;DR: FN keys of Forward, Backward, Pause/Play, and Stop aren't working. Volume+, Volume-, and Mute ones are working but they still don't show the volume slider at the top left corner. What do? Thanks P.S: I don't know if this helps with anything but, some shortcuts with the Windows key also don't work. Windows R doesn't open run and Windows E doesn't open the file explorer. Windows D does work however and shows the desktop, and of course the windows key itself works and shows the start menu. P.S again: The issue has been fixed. Here is what I did: opened services.msc from run, went to the service "Windows Audio" and double clicked it. Clicked stop then start. All is good now. I won't delete so that anyone having the same issue hopefully stumbles upon this
  2. alright that settles it, imma go for a flat one
  3. TL;DR BELOW I currently have a 24 inch 144hz 1ms monitor (ASUS MG248QE) and want to buy another one. I will use it only for multitasking (holding a few more windows and some extra space for projects, editing, multitasking, etc.) so I figured a nice, cheap 60hz one would be decent since I won't use it for gaming, graphic designing, wrywatching JoJo, or such. I'm considering a curved monitor (Samsung C24F390FHA) but I don't know how that would work out. My current one is flat, and I want a second one that is curved. Ignore aesthetics and suppose I have a ton of space, which I do, would it be a good idea? The only thing I care about is comfort while simultaneously using both screens. Will the second screen's curve look bad if I don't look straight at it the way I do when I have a single monitor? Will it look weird from a slight angle? I'm honestly quite hesitant because I can't picture how it's going to be until it's already on my desk. Again, ignore aesthetics + I have a ton of space, my desk is huge. The only aspect I'm looking for is if it'll look (from my sitting pov) and feel normal? I know a lot of elements factor into this, especially the way I place both screens, but I'm looking for general insight. Thanks for baring with me! TL;DR - I currently have a single flat monitor, and want to buy a second one that's curved, both 24 inches. Will it be alright or is it a bad idea? I don't care for aesthetics and I have a lot of space on my desk.
  4. How do I toggle FN lock? I need to do so in order to use the F keys more efficiently without having to hold the FN key while I'm using them. My keyboard is Tecware Phantom TKL and my motherboard is Asus ROG Strix B450-E. Thanks!
  5. Yet another quick update : I've upgraded the wiring. I changed the cable that was connecting my apartment's line to the box of the building from the old tin cable to a new copper one because they told me doing that will most likely solve the problem (spoiler alert : it didn't). That did make a lot of improvements. The statistics and properties of the connection on my router page are all perfect now, except for literally the only thing that matters: The Actual Line Rate, which is the actual speed that I'm receiving. It's still at 1MB down 254KB up. I did all what I can, and the problem is still persistent. All stats on the router page are great. Even the attainable rate has increased to around 19000KB down and 2300KB up. Yet the main problem, which is that I'm receiving very little of the speed I'm supposed to receive, is still persistent. Logically, that would mean only one thing. The problem is technical, and obviously from their end. As you said, the only thing I can do now is bitch at them. I'll go sicko mode as I do because I've had enough of this stupid ISP and its dumba$$ technicians that don't know how to say anything but 'rEsTart tHe r0uTer siR' I'll also make a separate post about the issue with the new stats to hopefully get clearer and updated help. Thanks for all your help, buddy! Deeply appreciated!
  6. Quick Update: I've updated to a VDSL router and the problem is still there. I know VDSL routers aren't supposed to just increase speeds the moments they're plugged, but I thought I'd get it just in case mine in fact has an issue. The problem has gotten worse and it's still gradually getting worse. The Line Rate is now 254KB Up 1024KB Down. About 1MB of download speed for over 8 wi0fi devices. Nice.
  7. When the technicians came, they tested using their VDSL router and the result was the same. The problem is not an issue with the router (though I wish it was, because that would've made it so easy to fix) I'll be buying a new VDSL router tomorrow or after anyway because they'll change the central ports to VDSL and hopefully that'll help.
  8. sometimes Wifi and sometimes ethernet It doesn't really matter because using ethernet doesn't increase the speed output of the router itself. It's just better at transferring the connection than Wifi, so there's no big difference most of the time (unless when it comes to playing multiplayer, ethernet obviously provides noticeably better ping)
  9. I'm subscribed to an internet package that is supposed to provide me with a speed of 15MBPS. As you can see in the picture below, the Downstream max rate, which is supposedly the max speed my line can handle, is 17MBPS (It keeps fluctuating but it never goes below 7MBPS or so) However, the Downstream line rate, which is the actual speed that I'm receiving, is only 1.7MBPS. Here in Egypt, the internet is terrible overall, but I'm living in an area where it should be pretty good. This problem has been existent for quite a while, but I started seeking help only when the speed was starting to get unbearable (We're currently a family of 5 with around 9 devices that use Wi-Fi on a speed of 1.7MBPS) It used to do that all the time. Go up to 15MBPS then go back to 4MBPS and the go up to 7MBPS then drop to 3.5MBPS and then yet again go up to 14MBPS and so on over extended periods. The technicians and customer support agents of my ISP are basically Patrick Star in terms of experience and proficiency. What do you suggest me to do, taking into consideration that I can't change the cable that's coming from the box to the house? I'm honestly sick of this whole potato internet sh!t
  10. Ohh my bad. I thought you were making an alternative one because I didn't really read the pre-built rig that he wants since it's so long and the specs are excessively detailed. When I saw the PCPartPicker lists in the comments, I thought they were all recommendations from you guys lol
  11. Have you considered Ryzen, by the way, or do you wanna stick to Intel?
  12. Honestly, I wouldn't recommend that. An unreasonable amount of the units sold are DOA. I'd rather go with the Corsair CX650M or the Gigabyte P650B or S12II 620W. They are all around the same price on Amazon. I wouldn't say Cooler Master is known for its PSUs in general, so I think sticking to the brands that have better positions in the field is always better when it comes to PSUs. Personal opinion
  13. @noxdeouroboros Thank you so much for all of your help buddy. Unfortunately, retail stores here in Egypt are as terrible as they could possibly be, so I'll be buying through amazon. I took all your suggestions into consideration, however, it seems like the best choice for me is the Tecware Phantom after all. It has all what I'm looking for, except for the fact that its switches are Outemu. Hopefully, its browns will be decent as well. Thanks again for your help
  14. Well, they're not bad. They're basically Cherry Greens, which are basically Cherry Blues but require 20 grams more for pressing. That's something I would rather not bother with
  15. Preferably yes. Not an absolute must. However, if the Keyboard has all of what I'm looking for aside from the RGB, I'm fine with one color backlighting for use in the dark.
  16. Reddragon does have great keyboards. My only problem with the K552 (which is the closest to what I want from their models) is that it only has blue switches with no brown switches variant plus these blue switches are cheap knock-offs...Would've been perfect if only they had Gateron browns or so...
  17. I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard that's: 1-TKL (Tenkeyless - doesn't have numpad) 2-Mechanical (duh) 3-Has Gateron or Cherry MX switches (Brown) 4-Has decent RGB 5-Under $70 Currently, my options are the Cooler Master CK530, which is basically a perfect choice for me, but its brown switches variant is out of stock, and the Tecware Phantom, which is also a decent choice but it has Outemu browns, which are nowhere as good as Cherry MX or even Gateron browns. I want a decent keyboard that would last. I don't game that much, so I need something that's decent in gaming and great in typing. I would've gone for the reds if I wanted it primarily for gaming. I'm open to all kinds of suggestions and recommendations.
  18. I can't use my Bluetooth Headphones and the built-in Mic it has at the same time. In the sound control panel, it's registered as 2 devices, Crusher Wireless Stereo (The Headphones) and Crusher Wireless Hands-Free (Headset - The Mic.) Whenever I use Discord or basically anything that requires the use of the Mic, I can't hear anything. For some reason which I don't understand, I can't use the Headphones to hear and the Mic to speak at the same time. I found out it's a very common issue with Windows 10. It doesn't allow the use of Headphones and their Mics at the same time for some reason. Getting an external Mic would definitely solve the problem, but that is not an available option for me right now. Any other way around this that would allow me to use the Headphones and their Built-In Mic at the same time?
  19. Ohhhh, well then that makes it a different situation and that's definitely a better choice than putting it on the shelf (duh.) Even though, the bootkit is still a good idea instead of having to do all of that, so look into that a bit or at least ask the store if they can do it for you before going for a 1st-2nd gen Ryen processor.
  20. Why even use a cardboard? PC containers in general are a bad idea, Just put the entire build with all of its components and wires on the side of the desk and let it breathe in that fresh air without having to add any fans at all. Ikr I told him so as well, he can very easily get a decent X570 board that wouldn't require BIOS flashing if he adds that money to his motherboard budget
  21. You can add $14 and go for an Aorus X570 Elite or the TUF X570, but I'm guessing these 2 would not have your liking since they're more on the low-end lines of boards. I'm still a newbie when it comes to motherboards, so I can't really give you solid suggestions or useful insight, but no matter what motherboard you ultimately decide to buy, make sure to read detailed reviews of it and watch enough YouTube reviews about it as well. If I had done so before hastily picking my board, I would've probably made a better choice. Best of luck!
  22. Good. If they weren't, your build would've been hard to distinguish from a vacuum's bag with all that dust-loaded airflow
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