unlimitedsparky

Hum due to grounding or ground lifting have driven people nuts for decades now. You might try iso transformers after your ups.

Remember with ohms the lower the number the more power it is. 0 ohms is a dead short ( Like a toaster ). 16 ohm is a typical 12" guitar amp speaker, 25-70 is a general headphone/earbud impedance. Just be aware that the amp needs to be equal to or greater ohm ( smaller ohm number ) than the headphones. Also putting a big amp on a small driver can easily ruin the driver if it is turned up too loud.

Not a pro gamer or anything but I do record some and listen to a lot of music. I use studio style iso headphones and a mod mic for gaming. I use reaper to gate the mic and eq the rf/noise my computer seems to love to put into my mic. The mod mic 5 has a magnetic mount that lets you take it off easy when you don't need it. For an Audio interface Focusrite makes decent stuff. Rme makes better. Really depends on what you are doing with it and what you need.

I have a recliner set up, it sits on the arms and doesn't touch me. It's simply a piece of 1/2 plywood. I cut it a few inches wider than the chair, sanded and clear coated it with some wipe on poly. I bought a huge mouse pad and trimmed it to fit the right side of the board. I also let it hang over the side towards me just a bit so that edge is soft. The board is about 36"x 20" If I wanted to take it to the couch I would use blocks under the board so it wasn't sitting on my legs. Maybe 6-8 inches or so depending your legs and how soft the couch is. I have a woodshop and cutting this stuff is easy for me, but your local lumberyard or home depot will make cuts for you if needed. You will probably have to buy a full sheet and leave what you don't need.

I really like the Logithech G Pro mouse. For an average schmo gamer like me the wireless is really handy. I use a set of studio headphones with a mod mic so that isn't really a gaming headset. Keyboards I'm not picky on. I like decent travel. I don't like mini usb connections on them at all. using an old hardwired logitch G 510s atm. The W key is getting weird.

I think a 1070 might be somewhat equal to a 980ti I'm saying this because I replaced my 980ti with a 2080 and I got a few more fps in games, but I was already running all gsync wanted anyway so it didn't matter. Graphics quality wasn't some huge improvement, if any at all. If it were me, unless I was building a new pc I would just keep what you have. The 2080 takes 2 8 pin power cables btw. I had to go digging for my box of unused parts from my build for a cable. Maybe you have one tucked in by your power supply. Check first on what you have and what card you want requires.

I didn't reinstall. I made the flash drive to repair from if needed and never need it. Idk what the fix was honestly. My boot order is right on the 1st page you can drag those around. there is a boot page in the advanced options as well. My win 10 drive wasn't showing up as a boot drive. Now it is... yay me! I think turning off legacy support had something to do with this. The reformatted win7 drive still identifies as Windows Boot manager ( Sata 6G_1: Samsung 860250GB. IDK why. I reformatted the whole thing and am using it for storage.

It's an Asus x570 tuf board. All the boot stuff is on the 1st page, the drive list I was talking about wont let you move anything, but if you click on a drive it boots immediately. I made a win10 flash drive. I unhooked everything except the win10 drive and turned off legacy support in the bios. It booted normally with no error message. This is the exact thing I had going on when I 1st booted up with the new parts..... Win10 drive only and hadn't touched the bios yet. I checked the bios boot order and the win10 drive was showing up, before it wasn't a boot option, but it was in the drive list when you press F8. I had ran all those repair attempts earlier maybe something got fixed after all. I plugged back in all my drives and the old win 7 one put itself on top again. This time the win 10 drive was selectable and able to be moved to the top. I do think that the boot utility for win7 must still be on that reformatted disk, Disk 0 in the above pic. Thanks for the help.

I think your right about the boot still being on the win7 drive. That is actually my only non storage choice in the boot menu. When I go to boot options in bios and click the C drive it boot win 10 immediately, but the C drive isn't an option that shows in the boot order list...? I will unplug everything but the c drive and try to repair just that. I could always reinstall. Can I format that 100mb partition of disk 0 and get rid of the win7 boot? As you can see I have some idk what happened stuff going on on C drive. that bit at the end was unallocated space I tried to add back to the c drive but the extend volume was greyed out. I haven't messed with disk manager before so I was not wanting to make mistakes.

I used to dual boot win 10 and win 7 on separate ssds'. I simply reformatted my win7 ssd and started using it for other things. Everything was fine booting up and it worked normally until... I changed my mb and cpu. I went from intel to amd if that makes a difference. It wouldn't boot windows until I enabled uefi/legacy in the bios which I thought was a win 7 thing. I did put the win 10 disk in like it asked and clicked through the options until it asked my if I wanted to install win 7, every option has something to do with win 7... It is a win10 install disk. I tried the recovery from windows 10 and startup repair, it just basically rebooted without fixing anything. No message from windows. I also tried 3 different cmd disk related repairs scannow and dskchk and 1 other I can't remember. To be clear I'm not having crashes or functionality issues. It just throws the boot error and simply hitting escape gets it to go ahead and boot win 10 without further glitches. the exact error wording Windows failed to start. A recent hardware change or software change might be the cause. To fix the problem. DIsk language repair your computer If you don't have an attorney one will be appointed Status: 0xc000000f Info: The boot selection failed because the required disk is inaccessible. Not sure what to do now. if anything.

I have a Rme Fireface 800 it uses firewire 800. They are also kind of pricey. My Macbook pro is dead and won't be returning this time. If I put a pcie firewire expansion card in my win10 pc will it run that audio interface? Or are those just for cameras and Hdd

That's why I'm asking for the thoughts of others. Need is a funny word. My current pc works great for me, so i don't really neeed any of this stuff. I was thinking towards the next gen of ryzen cpu's though that are supposed to run on this socket. I'm hoping to have some room to upgrade cpu's or gpu's in the future without replacing everything. But maybe that's just how it goes.

I want to run this by a few people before I buy anything. I have a working pc with a Corsair full case, 4 quiet fans. 650watt evga gold power supply. rtx2080 2 samsung 500gb ssd, 1 wd 1tb spinny drive Changing these parts out. Msi krait X99A i7-5820K, DDR4 2133 32gb looking at buying. Asus X570 rog strix-E DDR4 16gb ripjaws 3600 Ryzen 3600X or 3700X all I do on this pc is game and very small amounts of video rendering. I'm thinking the 6 core will be fine, but I'm open to advice. It doesn't have to be Amd I just thought with their socket being the same through the next release I could upgrade my cpu at the next release provided I got a capable board now. That X99 was my first build and it has honestly served me well for almost 5 years. But I wont make the same mistake of getting an odd cpu socket again. That being said this will be my 2nd time installing a mb and cpu. I'm hoping my drive plug right in and work. I won't be able to dual boot win 7 anymore with the new board I don't think. But I haven't needed the specific software that required it in 2 years. The exact parts I'm looking at down below if it helps. ASUS ROG Strix X570-E Gaming ATX Motherboard with PCIe 4.0, Aura Sync RGB Lighting, 2.5Gbps and Intel Gigabit LAN, Wi-Fi ... Replacement Only Return Policy SquareTrade Protection Plan Save 25% on SquareTrade Protection Plans with the purchase of qualifying hardware. 3 Year Motherboard Protection Plan: $39.99 $29.99 4 Year Motherboard Protection Plan: $59.99 $44.99 Update IN STOCK LIMIT 1 $329.99 JOIN TODAY MOVE TO WISH LIST REMOVE G.SKILL Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) Desktop Memory Model F4-3600C19D-16GVRB Standard Return Policy Update IN STOCK LIMIT 2 $77.99 JOIN TODAY MOVE TO WISH LIST REMOVE AMD RYZEN 5 3600X 6-Core 3.8 GHz (4.4 GHz Max Boost) Socket AM4 95W 100-100000022BOX Desktop Processor Replacement Only Return Policy SquareTrade Protection Plan Save 25% on SquareTrade Protection Plans with the purchase of qualifying hardware. 3 Year CPU Protection Plan: $28.99 $21.74 4 Year CPU Protection Plan: $42.99 $32.24 Send this item as a gift Update IN STOCK LIMIT 5 $249.99 JOIN TODAY

I have an old X99 (5820k) build that I put a 2080 in to replace the 980ti. I am buying parts that can be used in the next build. I was thinking about grabbing 16gb of ddr4 3600, but thought I would ask if that makes sense. My main question is if I use ram faster than my mb supports will it be worse than xmp on my 2133 ram? The 2133 ends up at 2800ish. Here is what my mb spec on ram is : Memory: 8x DDR4-3333(OC)/ 3110(OC)/ 3000(OC)/ 2750(OC)/ 2666(OC)/ 2600(OC)/ 2400(OC)/ 2200(OC)/ 2133 DIMM Slots, Quad-Channel, ECC, REG, Unbuffered, Max Capacity of 128GB I will upgrade my mb and cpu this year, but haven't decided what to do. I mostly just use it for gaming, recording a few them and converting with vlc is the most I do on that pc. Honestly the pc runs everything I do great. But all the shiny new stuff......