SolidSonicTH

I'm surprised this doesn't work. I never heard of a game controller that ONLY exists for Xbox One support without being XInput compatible as well. I can't even get this working properly in Forza Horizon 5, despite being a Microsoft Store game.

I hadn't even heard of the 3100 until Linus posted a video today and I went looking for one and can't find one for cheaper than a 3200G. Oh well.

Like what he's like when he's meeting with someone to do something business-related, like a sponsorship agreement...

I never want to try this.

I'm using Corsair's iCUE software to set the curve. I've tried sourcing the temp from various sensors and at the moment I've just settled on using the cooler itself as the source.

My CPU seems to live around 50 degrees-ish C on a decent load and about 35 degrees when just doing basic stuff (browsing, productivity, etc.). Is there a fan pattern that could keep the fans of my H100i relatively quiet (I'd say around 1000RPM or less) at the lower temperatures, if anyone has any experience setting these? I've tried setting my own but it always seems to ramp up to audible levels anyway even if I try to set a custom curve even if I'm not doing something super-demanding.

I went with an i5-6500 (this was mostly due to price vs. value; trying to go for an i5-6400 or get the power-saving version of the CPU didn't give me the sort of price difference I wanted to see and i3s in the Skylake generation are all dual-core CPUs). I was planning to use a riser cable, though (more for reasons relating to the fact there is no way to screw it down inside the case so I was going to affix the GPU somewhere inside the case, most likely on the walls). The main intent is to run some emulators but I was also looking forward to running games like Street Fighter V or Tekken 7 on low to mid settings to give this a really robust selection of games to play on stick.

You mean open up the PSU and try to refabricate a smaller form factor around it? Or a custom arcade unit case? If the latter, because I'm trying to avoid any tedious woodworking.

I already own it. I'm just reusing it because it's going unused presently.

I did a power calculation of what I should expect and the recommended output I got was 310w (because I want to equip it with a GTX 1050 Ti for some non-emulated gaming). That's 10 more than the 300w picoATX unit I was looking at so is there a good solution for a compact power supply? I'm going under the assumption I don't have a ton of space inside the arcade unit (it's going to be a bartop unit so I can't shove all the internals into the undercarriage like you could with a freestanding arcade system).

I bought this thing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081SN579Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 It's a cool idea (it interfaces off the header rather than the PCIe slot, it just mounts in the slot) but when I plugged it in, putting my PC to sleep or even shutting it down causes the CPU fan and optical drive to stay powered. Strangely, it seems to come off the Type-A port at the back of the card. This happened in more than one PC I tested. I asked for a replacement but to me this seems like it's inherently incorrect in design. Any explanation and what the potential consequences would be?

Guess I'll poke around. It's friggin' Jetway but that's what I get for thinking a motherboard is more cool than practical. >_>

Is there anything out there that can use these headers? I'd like to be able to add PS/2 keyboard support to this board but I haven't found a single existing adapter that seems to be able to connect to these out of the box.

Alright, sorry it took me so long to get back to this. This is what HWiNFO is telling me. I would say it looks more like what I'm expecting.

Do you hate Jake too?

ALEX! Explain your single-channel nonsense.

Alright, but I need to hook things up again (I bought the wrong kind of SSD so I can't install Windows for the time being; I was running these tests off my benchmarking SSD).

This was when I was mounting it. I double-wrapped each side. I actually wanted to cross underneath the board to get the most secure fit but I wasn’t sure if the straps being right below the heat source was healthy. This is something I've wanted to do ever since I saw this cooler (since I used an aftermarket cooler on the FM2+ CPU this originally shipped with). The bulky heat pipes and fin design completely stomps Intel's wimpy stock coolers.

Yep. You're SOL on the CPU. You need a motherboard with a 300-series chipset to run a 9th gen CPU. Your motherboard only works with 6th (Skylake) and 7th (Kaby Lake) CPUs.

Never used it before. I've always used HWMonitor to look at my system status.

Ambient is about ~79 degrees F (and I'm running the case with the side panel open at the moment; I just constructed the system). Cooling is...>_>...an AMD FM2+ stock cooler zip tied to the motherboard with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal paste. Just to be clear, the actual temperatures are fine and well within control (and they stayed relatively consistent through a PCMark run). I've just never seen such a large gulf between the reported temps of a package and individual cores before.

I'm not weirded out by the numbers (I know what numbers to expect from a CPU on average), I'm weirded out by the large temperature gap between the package and cores. I clarified that in my original post.

Does this make any sense? The package temp is what I'd expect but why are the individual cores reporting near-freezing point? I've never seen a system report temps like this (typically the package temp and the core temps stay in relative close proximity to each other when I look at this utility on other systems). It's a Core i5 6600K at stock speeds, delidded and liquid metal applied.

How do you order anything from this site?

Isn't TridentZ RGB gimmicky and more expensive for pizzazz? Also I've never heard of grounding your ESD strap on your PSU before, even in your own build guides. Then again, I don't use ESD straps anyway. >_>