SolidSonicTH

I'm surprised this doesn't work. I never heard of a game controller that ONLY exists for Xbox One support without being XInput compatible as well. I can't even get this working properly in Forza Horizon 5, despite being a Microsoft Store game.

I hadn't even heard of the 3100 until Linus posted a video today and I went looking for one and can't find one for cheaper than a 3200G. Oh well.

Like what he's like when he's meeting with someone to do something business-related, like a sponsorship agreement...

I never want to try this.

I'm using Corsair's iCUE software to set the curve. I've tried sourcing the temp from various sensors and at the moment I've just settled on using the cooler itself as the source.

My CPU seems to live around 50 degrees-ish C on a decent load and about 35 degrees when just doing basic stuff (browsing, productivity, etc.). Is there a fan pattern that could keep the fans of my H100i relatively quiet (I'd say around 1000RPM or less) at the lower temperatures, if anyone has any experience setting these? I've tried setting my own but it always seems to ramp up to audible levels anyway even if I try to set a custom curve even if I'm not doing something super-demanding.

I went with an i5-6500 (this was mostly due to price vs. value; trying to go for an i5-6400 or get the power-saving version of the CPU didn't give me the sort of price difference I wanted to see and i3s in the Skylake generation are all dual-core CPUs). I was planning to use a riser cable, though (more for reasons relating to the fact there is no way to screw it down inside the case so I was going to affix the GPU somewhere inside the case, most likely on the walls). The main intent is to run some emulators but I was also looking forward to running games like Street Fighter V or Tekken 7 on low to mid settings to give this a really robust selection of games to play on stick.

You mean open up the PSU and try to refabricate a smaller form factor around it? Or a custom arcade unit case? If the latter, because I'm trying to avoid any tedious woodworking.

I already own it. I'm just reusing it because it's going unused presently.

I did a power calculation of what I should expect and the recommended output I got was 310w (because I want to equip it with a GTX 1050 Ti for some non-emulated gaming). That's 10 more than the 300w picoATX unit I was looking at so is there a good solution for a compact power supply? I'm going under the assumption I don't have a ton of space inside the arcade unit (it's going to be a bartop unit so I can't shove all the internals into the undercarriage like you could with a freestanding arcade system).

I bought this thing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081SN579Z/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 It's a cool idea (it interfaces off the header rather than the PCIe slot, it just mounts in the slot) but when I plugged it in, putting my PC to sleep or even shutting it down causes the CPU fan and optical drive to stay powered. Strangely, it seems to come off the Type-A port at the back of the card. This happened in more than one PC I tested. I asked for a replacement but to me this seems like it's inherently incorrect in design. Any explanation and what the potential consequences would be?

Guess I'll poke around. It's friggin' Jetway but that's what I get for thinking a motherboard is more cool than practical. >_>

Is there anything out there that can use these headers? I'd like to be able to add PS/2 keyboard support to this board but I haven't found a single existing adapter that seems to be able to connect to these out of the box.

Alright, sorry it took me so long to get back to this. This is what HWiNFO is telling me. I would say it looks more like what I'm expecting.

Do you hate Jake too?