ThreePeenSoup

RMA Save yourself the headache.

Yes. Do not tell them "I touch the fan and it broke."

Is it safe to do this? Any particular steps I need to take before or during? Could it brick my PC? Thanks in advance.

Yes. It didn't ask me to but I did anyways.

Intel(R) Ethernet Connection (2) I219-V Downloaded the new drivers from https://downloadcenter.intel.com/product/82186/Intel-Ethernet-Connection-I219-V Installed them but the driver version in device manager still says it's the old one. Any idea why this is happening?

I took a video which filled up the rest of my storage. I've deleted the video but under Iphone Storage -> Photos it only says Documents and Data 5.08gb. No way to select it and delete. What am I doing wrong?

I wish I could find the post on their forums where the guy said, "those pumps only run at 1800rpm." I only use the BIOS to change fan curves and the RPMs are almost the exact same on both the BIOS monitor readings and the HWINFO readings. The only fan speed that neither of them read are the AIO fan speeds controlled by the AIO software. https://www.thermaltake.com/C_00003103.htm?id=C_00003103 I needed a decent mid tower with good airflow but what I bought was just a lie. I can't actually test the case before I buy it so I don't see how stating "outstanding ventilation" is anything but overstating the capabilities of your product. There's no airflow with the front face on. None. If it says 3600rpm I need to see 3600rpm. End of story.

I wouldn't have put the information in the question if it weren't precise. The 1800 rpm pump speed comes from hwinfo. My AIO is plugged into the AIO pump header and I'm assuming that's how hwinfo gets its data. Reseating the cooler upwards of 15 times, no exaggeration, switching thermal paste brands, ultimately landing on MX4 which dropped the temps by ~3c didn't do anything significant. https://www.thermaltake.com/C_00003120.htm?id=C_00003120#additional Click "specifications" and then read the line where it says "Motor Speed: 3600rpm" The case is also a TT piece of garbage. I had to take the front face off in order to get any airflow and then add a corsair 2000rpm fan to it in order to get the temps in line so I can actually put the glass panel on the side. Another overstating of capabilities. The amount of suction I was seeing with the front panel on was ridiculous. After adding the corsair fan, the other two fans would start spinning backwards until I took the face off. There's plenty of room here, btw, for a 360mm AIO if you front mount it, but they, for some reason, put two horizontal bars across where the top fan would mount so you have to pry those forward in order to get a fan there without interfering with it's operation. Now why on Earth would they say it can only accommodate a 240mm top/front if you can easily put a 360 in the front? Could it be to sell this same case frame with different aesthetics at higher prices? Regardless. now there's plenty of ~25c air moving through it. The cooler is top mounted exhaust with ~1600rpm fans, but that number comes from their shitty TT RGB plus software so it could just be overstating that as well seeing as how the description in the specifications reads "500 - 1400rpm" and they don't seem to be under any obligation to actually be real about anything they sell. If Thermaltake can't give me a reason why it stays "3600rpm" in the specs and only runs at 1800rpm when I asked in their forums then I'm just going to assume they lied to sell units. The fact that it's top mounted exhaust doesn't account for the still pretty high peaks of 81 - 82c that I see when this thing hits full load for a few seconds when loading a BFV map or some shit in BL3. Maybe this AIO works better front mounted intake, I don't know. The one guy they have answering all the questions in their forums either has been told specifically to feign ignorance or he really is just ignorant. Telling me "the pumps aren't rated for 3600rpm" and then not giving me an answer as to why it's stated they are on the spec sheets only reinforces my belief that they are a shady company. Also, water cooled ram is fucking stupid.

Okay thank you.

Can I take my 970 evo out of its current slot and put it into the slot that is under the heat sink on my motherboard without losing data or reinstalling windows? I plan on putting a second 970 evo 1tb in the exposed m.2 slot used as just a steam library/downloads drive and I want my OS ssd under the heat sink. Thanks in advance

Yea I have to go with another AIO. The dark rock pro 4 won't fit in my case and all the air coolers that do can't cool an oc'd 8700k Corsair h100i v2 it is.

Do they measure cooler height from the base of the heatsink to the top of the cooler or from the bottom of the side that is facing you to the top of the same face?

Yea that's the plan. I was going to get a corsair h100i but i'm really not into the whole AIO thing as I thought. I know they're generally manufactured properly but the law of averages always screws me so I'm just going to go back to air cooling. dark rock has a neat mobo compatibility check plus the pic on the dark rock pro 4 page shows the clearance of an ASUS board with the same ram that I have.

I can't find the max TDP of my floe riing 240mm anywhere on their site or on other sites. There's nothing written in the spec sheets other than lies about their 3600 rpm motor that runs at 1800rpm. Is this a normal thing? I tried this same post on their forums but I guess they're not into customer service so I have to ask here. I don't expect anyone to know for sure but if anyone has any inkling on where it might lie give or take I would greatly appreciate the information. It's cooling an 8700k 4.6ghz @ 1.28v Idle 1.296v load which while gaming it will peak at around 81 - 82c on a few cores. Cinebench r20 it hits like 87c no problem. I can't really even test using prime or aida, instant spike to TJmax. I just can't figure out what that TDP is. I plan on replacing this garbage with a dark rock pro 4. I'm constantly worried this POS is going to spring a leak just based off of their shady overstating of capabilities.

I can't tell if you're being sarcastic or honest. Why would you reply to this? Why would I reply to you? Dump truck.

Nevermind

It's slower when it's set to RST than when it's set to AHCI. I just don't get the benefit of the Optane memory which i'm not really using at the moment. What other option is there?

The driver in the device manager under Disk Drives says microsoft 10.0.1 whatever it is from 2006. I don't know what you mean by, "should be using NVMe for that drive." There is no other option. It's in PCIe mode, gen 3 x4

I keep having to ask this because I can't get a straight answer. I need to update the driver for my 970 EVO. Right now it's using the microsoft 2006 driver the for the SSD and the intel RST driver for the HDD with optane memory installed which requires RAID to work. I can't install the new 970 EVO driver while it's in RAID mode, samsung magician won't allow it. I just need to know if it's safe to switch over to AHCI using the safeboot method to update the driver and then switch it back to RST so I can still use my hdd + optane. Any help is appreciated. THanks

There isn't an option to update the firmware through Magician. From the installation guide. "Windows Operating System shall successfully load the driver only when Samsung NVMe SSD 970 PRO, 970 EVO, 970 EVO Plus, 960 PRO, 960 EVO or950 PRO is installed to PCIe slot directly connected to CPU or M.2 or PCIe slot connected to PCH. However, in the PCH case, Windows Operating System cannot load the driver under following BIOS configurations where PCH Storage Configuration is set to Raid Mode, or NAND/Storage Remapping option*”is enabled." From the installation guide. I can't find information on whether or not it's safe to switch AHCI mode, update the driver, and then switch back.

I want to update the drivers for my EVO but I also have a toshiba HDD + intel optane using intel RST. I know how to switch it to AHCI mode without reinstalling windows but my question is can I install the new samsung drivers then switch back to RST or is it one or the other? When I tested out AHCI mode there was a huge boost in performance from the SSD but optane was disabled and the HDD was slower obviously.

Yea that's an RMA.

It hits 1.28v under full load with that LLC and I'm assuming it goes a bit above that. I'm all for dropping the voltage some so how do I add some vdroop with that high LLC? Only other way I tried was setting 1.29v manual LLC5 and it uses vdroop to stabilize but I think the average was somewhere in the 1.27 range which is way more than it needs for what I use it for. Load a map in bfv 1.28v, game starts 1.264v whole time practically as an example.

Word, thank you

It has dropped below manual vcore setting. This has happened once before and there's no reason it should given my set vcore and LLC set to 6 (over shoot).Maximus X formula board8700k 4.5ghz 1.26v