vogelspinnen

Thank you I actually messed up painting it, so I ended up just decaling it.

Not that it was needed, but as I was searching for a 2nd-hand PSU, it was actually cheaper than all the other 700W and 650W ones I was looking at, and it's EVGA, and still under warranty. Was too good a deal to pass up!

My wife picked up gaming recently, mostly because I game a lot, and she wanted to join in on my hobby. So, I decided to build her a PC. I am in the midst of starting my new business, and so I do not have a lot to spend, but I wanted something that could play triple-A titles with ease at 1080p. Also, I wanted it clean and RGB-ed. Because my wife loves RGB. After much planning, I figured I would be able to build her PC in one of the spaces in the Kallax shelf we have at home, potentially saving money on a case, while being absolutely unique and clean at the same time. The first order of business was to get the parts for the PC. Gigabyte Aorus Z370 Gaming K3 i5-9600K Adata 128GB M.2 SSD XPG 3000Mhz 16GB RAM EVGA Supernova 1000 P2 DEEPCOOL Castle 240EX MSI 1060 6GB ( almost immediately replaced by a 2060 Super I won from www.scooget.com. Thanks guys! ) The CPU is overkill, but I am planning to give her my 2080 in the future, and I believe a good CPU is worth investing in. These things last ages anyways. The Adata SSD is tiny, but I got it for next to nothing and it's enough for Monster Hunter. The PSU is waaaay overkill, but same thing, it was a deal I couldn't resist. I splurged a bit of the cooler and RAM for their bling factor, but overall everything cost me less than $500, and is ready for the 2080 when I do want to transfer it. Much of the decisions made were also simply because there were really good deals for them on the 2nd-hand market. 5 of the parts here still have warranty on them! So first off, I threw everything together to just make sure it runs. And it posted! I bought a old Kallax shelf door for $1 off someone, then drill holes into them. I bought some brass standoffs that were about twice the length of normal mobo standoffs, so I could route cables beneath the mobo. I then drilled a huge 4 inch hole in the center of the door. That is where all the cables will pass through (no photos of that because I was too tired and forgot!). The PSU is mounted all the way at the back. It is not flush against the wall, and neither is the shelf, so there's lots of breathing room. Cable extensions are a god send here. Besides looking good, I route them all through the 4 inch hole behind the mobo, and removing the mobo is as easy as just unplugging all the extensions. Once all the cables are connected, I just push the entire door inwards, where it will be held by some magnetic door stoppers I drilled into the board. Next up was mounting the radiator. I wanted it on the left side to hide all the cables coming off the mobo, and custom-made a piece of wood to fill the gap above and below it so it looks like one flush piece. I also took the chance to modify a USB hub and power switch onto it, that's my front panel IO! Finally, I resprayed the GPU shroud because the white was just darn ugly. Annnnnd the build is done... ....or is it? 2 weeks after the build, I submitted my build on www.scooget.com, and lo and behold, I won myself a 2060 Super GPU! First thing I did was but a vertical GPU mount for it, as the lack of a proper case means my GPU was just dangling off the PCIE slot, which is ok for the tiny 1060. I found a guy selling one he didn't even know what case it was for, hence the low price. A little modification to my build, and the 2060 Super is sitting pretty For KBM, I didn't need something good, my wife only ever uses it to click on Monster Hunter. But it had to be wireless due to the distance, and preferably neat too. I searched through all my stuff, and salvaged these parts: An IKEA Lack shelf I salvaged from my bedside table. It's a 2 tier shelf, and I only use the top, so I removed the bottom for this project. An old VESA gas-actuator arm. It was used for my monitor a while ago, but I removed it because it jiggled way too much when I was in standing-desk mode. A VESA mount adapter for the X34P. This is supposed to be used for the X34P if you wanna mount a NUC or something, but I didn't, and it's VESA-sized, made of really solid steel, so it's perfect as other side of the VESA arm. A Dynaudio speaker cover. This cover is used when you are not VESA mounting your Dynaudio speakers. I don't need them, and it's VESA-compatible so ta-dah, my wife has a posh mosue holder. First order of business is to attach the X34P VESA adapter. The arm will be mounted on the other side, sandwiching the plank. I cut 2 pieces of felt and lined the inside of the adapter and the speaker cover. This is where the mouse will sit. With everything screwed together, I adjusted the screws such that the mouse sits snugly while still being easy to reach. With the keyboard screwed in, this is how it looks like when it is stowed away. And this is with the keyboard pulled out. With the gas-arm properly adjusted, doing so is a breeze, whereas the board is usually quite heavy when I was working with it. And that is about it! My wife now spends hours on Monster Hunter with it, and seeing her enjoy herself makes all that hard work well worth it. This build is budget-as-heck, but hopefully my new business will pick up, and the next order of business is to get her a 4K TV. I would like to specially mention www.scooget.com. While I am not affiliated with them in any way, they do run a very cool site where they have contests pretty often with great prizes. Winning the 2060 Super was the best thing that happened to me in a long while, and is just perfect for my wife's build, so yes, I am very inclined to help them promote their site in any way I can!

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Splitter-Extension-Earphone-Compatible/dp/B00LM0ZGK6 https://www.amazon.com/STEREO-Manual-Speaker-selector-available/dp/B073GWCRP3 Either of these will work fine. If you do not usually have both devices powered on at the same time, just the cable would do the trick.

His monitor has no audio output, and even if it does, this method means his PC has to be on just for the audio to work. I would say an audio splitter would do the job just fine.

Yep that card's backplate is meant to look dented.

This is pure perfectionist pornography man. Build is so effing clean, photography really does it justice, this thread hits the spots in so many ways!

Nothing much to say about the sub though, SVS stuff is pretty solid, so that's a good choice. I would've gone for that sub if my room was so tiny. Also i would recommend you audit a few brands at local retailers if at all possible, most brands will have a certain signature to their sound, that will give you a good eatimate of what kind of sound you like.

I have audited those speakers and while they are lovely, their nearfield performance isn't really good, which means they'll need space. Space in the back to breathe and space between you and them for them to sound their best. If space is an issue I'll recommend nearfield monitors or something like the KEF LSX, Dynaudio Xeo 2, Dynaudio Lyd 5, or even the smaller Audioengine HD3.

Color scheme is awesome, and the keanu portrait is just absolutely bonkers! Looking forward to seeing the end product!

It's almost certainly a ground loop. Are all your equipment plugged into the same socket, or at least on the same ground circuit? https://www.audioholics.com/home-theater-connection/ground-loops-eliminating-system-hum-and-buzz Here's some reading that might help you.

I used to have 3 separate amps for my car setup and never really noticed a difference, like kirashi said the RCA would have to be an absurbly different length for there to be an audible difference. Even time alignment software which causes speakers to be delayed only shifts the perception of positioning of sound, and can never go far enough to cause an audible echo. Run the power cables down the center tunnel where your transmission is, and audio cables down the door sills. That's the way i always run my cables to avoid any strange interferences.

But does it run Overcooked 2?

That looks dope af!!

Yea headphone technology really has come a long way, and it is impressive what can be done with 2 small drivers. It's just that last bit that can't be done because physics. You just can't move enough air with small drivers to have true bass, and that in-front-of-you soundstage with speakers. I think that is a compromise most people will be willing to make because headphones are just so much more value-for-money in all other aspects and convenient as well. OP just has to decide for himself if he is unfortunate enough to be in my camp.