mav91890

My third build. What do you think of it and any recommendations/changes you'd make?
 
13900K
PNY 4090
Asus Z690-E
CM PL360 Fluzx AIO
TeamGroup 6400MHz DDR5
1TB SN850X
1TB Intel 660P from old build
4TB SN850X
EVGA GT 1000W Supernova
HAF 700 Beserker
 
Have tried the gpu in regular/vertical mount. Not sure which I like best. Need to get a better cord for it for aesthetics. Some of RGB aren't synced properly. 
 
 

I'm running a full custom loop for the cpu and gpu with a 360mm and 280mm radiator. I also noticed a couple days ago that I have my water block hooked up backwards. Stock settings on the CPU in Cinnebench I was hitting (IIRC) ~90C, but not thermal throttling. When I get home I'm going to drain the loop and flip that block around and see what it does for my temps.

You can do a manual overclock and lock the frequency at 6.0 GHz.
Example, my i7-8086K, I have all 6-cores running at 5.1 GHz at all times -- not using any adaptive voltage or adapter multiplier.

The i9-13900K is a much more complicated CPU than your i7-9700K.
 
As others have already mentioned, the advertised is UP TO 5.7 / 5.8 GHz is max SINGLE CORE boost.
Even that, if following Intel specs, it short temporary bursts.
Otherwise, the Base frequency is 3.0 GHz for the P-Cores, and 2.2 GHz for the E-Cores.
 
https://www.intel.ca/content/www/ca/en/products/sku/230496/intel-core-i913900k-processor-36m-cache-up-to-5-80-ghz/specifications.html

 
4.6 GHz ~ 4.8 GHz on an ALL CORE workload / synthetic stress test like Prime95 seems normal.
Running 5.80 GHz constantly, especially on all cores, will violate both "125W" spec.
That is a hell whole lot of heat too.
 
Yes, you are better off to read, research, and learn how to overclock and tweak the CPU manually, rather than using an sort of "Auto Overclocking."

5.8GHz is for single core turbo. As you use more cores, the lower the clocks will be unless you manually tune your OC configs.
 
Here shows it more clearly:

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/intel-core-i9-13900k/24.html

P95 is an all core load, so clocks are lower than that 5.8Ghz turbo, because that is a single core max frequency.  and damn what cooling do you use to keep a 13900K at 78°C?

Those "auto overclocking" utilities are generally worthless in my experience. They either pump way too much voltage into the CPU for no reason, they're horribly unstable on anything but golden sample CPUs, or they end up with worse performance than at stock. 
 
Personally, if I were you, I'd just leave that chip at stock. It should be doing 5.5GHz on the P cores under full synthetic loads, and unless you're pushing way too much voltage to cool you aren't likely to get more than 5.6GHz on all cores fully stable, at least in P95. The difference between 5.8GHz and 6GHz is not gonna be noticeable, and the difference between 5.5GHz and 5.6GHz isn't either. Manually tuning only really makes sense for XOC and for the 13600K/13700K since those chips do actually have some amount of headroom in them. 

Id get a single larger ssd. Easier to manage in the OS, all games will load fast, and a HDD is becoming too slow for games slowly. And if you need more storage you can always add anouther ssd.

How much space do you need? Honestly I don't think an extra 2 TB is going to be a deal breaker, so the all SSD route seems like the better route. You can always add more later if you need to.
 
This is coming from someone who's entire game library is still on a a HDD.

CableMod.

Are you sure your PC is outputting the video at 3840x2160 at 60Hz? 
Also, the Xbox controller issue is simple: the farther your controller is from a Bluetooth receiver, the harder it is for the data to transfer over. It's likely feeling more sluggish because of that.

What game are you playing, at what settings, and on what specs? It's likely that you just can't play native 4K and get 60fps.

Any wireless device can cause this kind of noise. A mouse tends to make a high pitch rapid tapping/squeel. A router tends to be a lower frequency and less regular. Other NFC devices can cause even stranger high pitch whines. Cellular signals tend to be helicopter like...
 
I should make a funny post describing interference sounds as if they are fine wine

Make sure your cell phone is far away from you as a test.
 
Also test to make sure your sample rates are the same across all devices.

since I assume you connect them through a usb wireless dongle , try updating your mobo's chipset or maybe USB controllers

I ended up kinda lucking into both my last relationship and last couple of friends.
 
That said, I did wear cargo pants to my first date. In my defense, it was a zombie walk and I was Black Lantern Punisher.
 
My last two friends were the people who moved into the house just a bit down the street. We started talking and turned out to share an interest in board games, cats and the Mountain t-shirts. It was truly a match made in the weird part of Vegas.

The key to a good long term relationship is a soundproof basement and good locks.

I agree. Based on everything I'm now suspecting the mb might be bad. Best to rma while you can and get some new hardware

Do you have another SSD lying around which you can just pop in this new system to see if you can install windows in there?

you can still upgrade win8 to win10

Sounds like there might be an issue with the ISO. Have you tried downloading a fresh copy and creating a new boot USB?

Maybe you failed the settings with the boot drive properly? Did you try setting it up using Rufus? Made a boot drive using it like a month ago and worked just fine, link to the program https://rufus.ie/
 
 
 

Did you also try installing Windows onto the SSD/HDD with the help of a different PC and then plug the drive back into your rig?
 
If that doesn't work, give Windows 8.1 a shot or even some Linux distro.
https://www.microsoft.com/de-de/software-download/windows8ISO
That could help us to identify the problem. 

It's killing me having to wait as well.  I almost purchased the Asus Rog RTX 2080, but held off once I heard about the Super version.  If they give the same kind of performance gains the 2070 Super has over the original 2070, I think it will be well worth the wait and cost the same.

I only have 500GB worth of NVMe, since most of my archival and games can be easily done with HDD