lansing

Here's how the bottom of the key looks like, I studied it for a little and I think it's not designed to get pulled?

I have this Azio Levetron L70 keyboard that I wanted to clean. I have brought one of those wired keypuller from Amazon not knowing that they're for mechanical keyboard only. And when I pulled it, one of the side of the plastic holder that was underneath the key brokes. I tried on a few more keys and I broke every one of them except one.

The keys work fine when I put them back, but how exactly do I properly remove them?

On 7/23/2023 at 8:09 AM, Jdbye said:

I have the same issue as you, and it started around the same time. Did you ever figure out the problem?

 

Sometimes, I've tried to wake it up while it was in sleep mode, only to have it power off instead (with an audible sound, as the relays all turned off)

But it seems like it might've gotten worse, because now it will power off almost immediately once it enters sleep mode (maybe 5-10 mins later max)

 

I never leave any unsaved work when I go to bed (never know when there will be a power outage or something), so I haven't lost any data, but this is getting quite annoying.

 

I'm just not sure if this is a motherboard issue, or a PSU issue. Both are under warranty, for now (I think the warranty ends this winter), but both were high end parts, so it really sucks to have either of them fail this soon.

 

The only indications I get in Event Viewer are:
"The previous system shutdown at 10:00:05 AM on ‎7/‎23/‎2023 was unexpected."
"The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly."
My motherboard is set to default to last state (power on/power off) after a power loss, but it doesn't seem to be detecting any power loss, because the PC doesn't turn back on automatically like it does after a power outage. That seems to me like it could be an indication that the PSU is not at fault here. Which would really suck, because the PSU is much cheaper.

I brought a new computer 1 week after that so I don't know. I did kept the psu and it is working fine.

23 minutes ago, GuiltySpark_ said:

Assuming stock, all core clockspeed and package power during the run? BIOS up to date? PBO Curve Optimizer settings? 

I have the latest Asus BIOS version 1222. I only have the eco mode on.

At stock during benchmark, clockspeed is 4,933, cpu power 160W and CPU package power at 200W

I have had my Ryzen 7950x for 3 months so far but never really compared my Cinebench score to the others. I just turned on eco mode 105w and never looked into the setting again.

And today when I looked into it, I see that my cinebench R23 score is relatively lower (like 2,000 lower) than any other 7950x score I can find. A typical score for stock would be around 37,000, but mine is only 35,500. And in eco mode 105w I got only 33,400, which is 1,000 point lower than others. My motherboard is Asus B650 Plus Prime.

Is this normal?

Are you going to sell it on ebay?

Just upgraded my PC to Ryzen 7950x today. I only swap out the motherboard, ram and cpu, rest of the parts were all kept from my old one.

When I turned on the machine, the power is on, the fans are on, but there are no display, no mouse and keyboard. The keyboard light doesn't even flash on start up. I have no idea what's going on.

For troubleshooting, I disconnected all drives, ram and GPU from the motherboard, still nothing. I tried swapping out the CMOS battery and reseated my CPU and nothing.

more information:

For the last couple of months, my computer has been shutting down by itself randomly while in sleep mode, is it a sign of PSU failing? Could that be the cause on my new build?

I rarely turn off my PC, usually when I go to sleep, I just turn it to sleep mode and everything would be resumed the next morning in one power button press.

But for the last few months it has been randomly shutting down while in sleep mode, and I lost all unsaved works because of this. Other than that my computer has no problem at all. Is my motherboard dying?

Record the first gameplay, and then on the later benchmarks, replay the first video and follows its path. 

Only go for Intel if you have an Intel currently and looking for an upgrade. It makes no sense spending a lot of money to build a new PC on a dead platform.

And you just missed the Microcenter deals that just ended yesterday. They were giving out free DDR5-6000 RAM + a $50 discount on motherboard with the Ryzen 7000 CPU.

For anyone who are interested, there is a lossless way now to digitize VHS by capturing the RF signal directly from the VCR. Once the signal was capture, you can apply filters like TBC or whatever and convert them into picture and sound.

vhs-decode

For traditional capturing setup, you don't really need those crazily expensive line based TBC VCR or standalone TBC that are in the thousands. For playback, you'll only need a solid deck with the option to turn off the auto sharpener/denoiser "features". For TBC, a popular alternative is to use the Panasonic ES10 dvd recorder as a passthrough. Another option is to use one of those digital mixers that were produced in the late 90 early 2000, they had TBC baked in along with the ability to bypass macrovision.

I was really getting put off buying the 7000 series by the 95 degree max. Really looking forward to what product DerBauer's team can put out for this.

14 minutes ago, Mel0nMan said:

Is it that super loud click? 
Also please close your drive, dust getting on the platter won't end well.

It's likely already irreperably (to you) damaged. Only way to get data back from it is to take it to a service like DriveSavers. What they do is take the platter out, put it in a similar drive and get the data from there.

That's an issue with the head, in your drive.

I'm alright with the data, I don't even remember what I had in there. It's just my last effort before I throw it away.

9 minutes ago, Mel0nMan said:

Well, you may have broken it way further by opening it. 

The head needs to be on the platter (not actually touching it though) to work. That's how it reads data. If it's clicking that means the head is moving while it's on. Drive uses landing zones from the look of it, parking the head near the spindle. Classic click of death there. Nothing you can do to fix it, just take it to a recovery service.

The click you hear is the head failing to read the drive as shown here

 

 

Mine is similar but head is moving back and forth a lot quicker. Does that mean the head was broken?

I have a 20 year old broken hard drive that I'm trying to fix. When turned on, it has the clicking sound. This is the picture when I opened it up. I supposed that I need to move the head out of the plater to fix it? But I'm sure because all the fix videos I saw were on Sata drive, mine was IDE. What position was the head supposed to be in?

Before

After

Their software are some experimental crap. It basically goes like 1 good frame and then 1 bad frame. At the end you'll just ended up with an unusable crap. I don't understand how are people paying $200 for being a genuine pig.

18 hours ago, thrasher_565 said:

console boxs can have some value thow ps and xbox is way less then Nintendo. like the nes, snes, n64 so on are worth something to some one. but if you dont want to hold on to it sell it instead of destroying it imo or give it away. (i still have my ps3 fat box that had uncharted)  is it worth much probly not but it time it might...

 

i sold a n64 box for $30 a few years ago could be worth more to the right buyer thow (also sold a voodoo5500 for $100 with water block to...ya still missing that one its over $1000 today...

 

as for the pc parts 99% of them are worthless and is nice to keep the case box, mb box if is a some what expensive, i have a lot of boxes too haha

i keep the antec lanboy box as that case fell in to to collector category meaning its worth more now then when it was sold (or people are willing to pay more for it like me...)

 

 

What did you do with the fans boxes? I have water cooler box from like 8 years ago, what do you do with those?

I tends to hoard all the packaging boxes for my computer parts and consoles. I am thinking to keep the one that's important and throw away the rest. Boxes I have are monitor box, psu box, watercooler box, peripheral fan boxes, console box, game controller box, memory boxes, motherboard boxes.

I'm thinking to throwing away the smaller one and some very old motherboard boxes, do they still worth keeping?

I have looked through the listing on ebay, they doesn't seems to drop much in price

56 minutes ago, Wolly9102 said:

probably depending on where you live. i wouldn't buy directly from intel and something like an 8th gen i3 would do just as fine.

Will something like this do?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/224824697557?hash=item345898a2d5:g:68IAAOSwaQZh43JI

5 minutes ago, Wolly9102 said:

something like a nuc?

 

https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/products/sku/121572/intel-nuc-11-pro-kit-nuc11tnhi30z/specifications.html

Yes like this. Are there any cheaper one? 

I'm looking for a small mini PC for TV in my living room. All it needs to do is be able to stream 4k youtube videos, and playing back videos from my NAS. I also want the navigation to be responsive. Should I build one myself or looks for a prebuilt one? Though I couldn't find an mini ITX case that was as small as the prebuilt.

Update, I rolled back to version 472.12 and no problem occurred after like 3 wakeup, so I think I'll stick with this one.

Just tried 497.09, still the same problem with the 8 bit color but no window resize issue

I have a GTX 1060 6G and updated to the latest Nvidia driver v497.29 and I'm having issues with my display.

Every time my computer woke up from sleep mode, my screen would turn into this 8 bit color screen, and all my size of all my opened window/explorer would reset to like 640 x 480 and relocated to the top left corner. It's so damn annoying. What is the latest driver that is stable from this issue?