RockandGrohl

PC is Ryzen 3900x 64GB DDR4 3000MHz 2x 2TB NVMe SSD's (not in Raid) RTX 2060 Super GPU Friend says rendering is lightning fast and everything else performs as expected, but tbh playback on a 4k raw shouldn't be a problem for this spec. It's an MP4 H.264, from a Sony A7SII with no transcoding done. Essentially importing straight from camera. The scrubbing through the timeline is jumpy too. Anything we're missing on this? Thanks.

Have decided to scrap off the non-working HDD and since then there's been no issues. Case closed, I guess.

Unfortunately clean did not fix the issue, and I failed to boot again after gaming (Initially it booted fine) So I have disconnected that HDD and the PC is now working fine. The HDD was working perfectly up until we swapped the mobo & CPU.

Got some updates. Did DiskPart and it looked like something was on that E drive that shouldn't be. AFTER the Clean command I took the following pics, and from there I was able to boot straight back in to Windows. I'm currently setting up both new drives as GPT and doing a proper format on both of them. Just wondering if the images are normal? It's still showing there's some kind of Boot Loader on Partition E which worries me.

This might have to be done within recovery, as I simply cannot get into Windows with the HDD's connected. Fucking things. You're sure this will terminate all MBR's and BCD's and whatever elses on the drives?

Cheers, so I ran with just the SSD's in for a couple hours last night and had 0 issues, so I think I've isolated the culprit, but will test a few more hours tonight. And after I've confirmed the issue is gone I plug the drives back in and try and reproduce the issue, then after that I will try and remove the MBR partition from E. After running diskpart in Command Prompt what commands am I looking for to delete the partition on E? Thanks.

I've now unplugged both HDD's and left just the SSD's in and it got to Windows startup recovery, said recovery failed and pasted results to a .txt file, what's interesting is that it's claiming the text file is in "E:\Windows\System32 etc" But...Windows is ONLY on the C drive, confirmed, E and G were formatted, then had the volume erased and a new simple volume created, then formatted again and then we started putting games etc on the hard drives.So why does Windows think there's a Windows directory in C??To assuage any doubts, I only have C and D plugged in so Windows can't possibly be on E, as I'm typing this on the affected PC right now, loaded from the C drive... EDIT: Can I see if my drive has an MBR on it? I think one may be left over, faulty, from years ago. Thing is, this would be Win 7 days.. Certainly before the Intel 60GB SSD came out..

Done, so far re-downloading Mordhau and I've been able to successfully reproduce it before by playing a game then restarting, so going to see if that happens again, will update you all. I also disconnected the other HDD so I'm on 2x SSD.

Previous thread on Reddit has all PC info and steps taken, summary belowhttps://www.reddit.com/r/techsupport/comments/cuzc24/pc_new_hardware_installed_but_pc_is/Ryzen 3600 Stock Antec AIO Cooler Asus Prime X370 Pro Motherboard (now on latest BIOS 5204)16GB HyperX Predator 3200MHz RAM MSI RTX 2070 SuperCorsair VX550W PSU 2x SSD (one is boot) and 2x HDD Windows 10 Home Fresh fresh install of Windows on the SSD, it was the only drive connected so now has the complete boot record etc. All parts bolded above are new. Avast Antivirus Installed, along with Steam, Spotify and a few games, so relatively fresh OS. No weird regedits or strange Windows plugins or anything like that installed. Just all stock and simple. Temperatures are approx 40c idle and 61c load. I have Verbose boot on, but don't get any text in the initial Windows load (black screen blue logo) only on blue screen white text, which doesn't help as it's freezing before that stage. Have Prime95'd it for 15 minutes with absolutely no problems. The problemFollowing on from the last thread, we thought it was job done and I stopped doing remote support for friend. He played DOOM for 2+ hours, no problem. Installed a few games, downloaded and played Forza, realised graphics settings were low, so cranked them up. Then got like 10FPS (which shouldn't happen ever with a 2070S) and went back to menu to turn settings down, as soon as he did, the PC locked up, when he hard-reset it, it wouldn't boot.PC performance will intermittently degrade or crash. We notice this happens in Doom when switching from gameplay to interacting with the environment, or when swapping game video settings (switching to Vulkan in DOOM, swapping graphics settings in Forza) After it crashes, PC will either very slowly boot or just hang forever on the Windows logo with spinning dots. Sometimes black screen. Sometimes it will take >5 minutes to boot. We are getting intermittent registration of one of the Hard Disk Drives. This should be totally unrelated to booting as it just has a steam directory with a couple games on it. Just now a pop up has come up saying "Select to show what happens with removable devices - Data E:" That's a hard drive, not a removable device, so it's still flicking on and off. (Important note, games are on G drive, and E drive is being intermittent)Tonight I played Mordhau for 2 hours, with the game loading from the intermittent hard drive and didn't encounter one single problem. Framerate was locked to my 75Hz monitor and PC didn't bat an eye at gaming for 2 hours. I then curiously decided to restart the PC while it had just come out of gaming and it stuck on the BIOS splash screen for about a minute, then let me in the BIOS after I got impatient and hit Delete (it let me in 20 seconds after hitting delete) and then I chose to boot from the SSD, it started to load Windows which took a further few minutes. Once in I did a Windows update and had to restart, which it appeared to do just fine. I then tested a couple cold boots and it was ok. The problem is that unfortunately it will appear just fine, again, for a while, then the problem will reoccur. It's strange that a game crashing can be force closed, and then once back in Windows it appears to be fully functional until you shut down / restart, at which point you enter an excruciatingly long booting process.Any help is really appreciated, thanks! Have tried more stuff: BIOS update to 5204, Manually adding drivers for HDD's and SSD's Putting RTX 2070 in the middle PCI-E slot Nothing so far :(

I'm worried because I'm on a £60 Noctua NH U12P-SE2 with a Corsair case with 1 intake and 2 exhausts and my temps are 45c idle, yet this review has the stock cooler in a Micro-ATX case at 33c... https://www.techspot.com/review/1871-amd-ryzen-3600/

Hi, here's the fan setup: CPU header - Noctua CPU cooler fan 1 CPU OPT - Noctua CPU cooler fan 2 Both start up no problems every time. Chassis fan 1 - Case rear exhaust fan, connected directly to header, sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. When it doesn't work, it sits there twitching every few seconds as the voltage is obviously trying to turn the fan but can't overcome the lack of momentum. Chassis fan 2 - Splitter for the Case intake (120mm) and the top exhaust (140mm) the Corsair intake starts every time, but the Fractal Design 140mm on top shares the same issue as above, sporadically starts and twitches. Qfan tuning was set up, but the fans are set to start at 60% and them ramp up as heat is applied. Could a solution be to start the fans at 80% speed at 30c, then drop to 60% speed at 35c and above, that way the computer will start and immediately trigger a fast spin, then pull it back once the temperature changes. Sound like a plan?

Hi all, just changed to Ryzen 3600 from i5 2500K (I know, upgrade of the century) and idle clocks are sometimes 4,000MHz which leads me to believe it's NOT a temperature issue, but in case it is, my idle CPU temp seems to be high 40 to 50c. I'm running a stock Ryzen 3600 with a Noctua U12P-SE2 cooler in push/pull config, with a 140mm fan above and a 120mm fan pulling air out the back. Good airflow in the case. It's on an Asus Prime X370 Pro motherboard where the Q-fan is set up to be quiet, but still good airflow (anyone should know Noctua fans produce good airflow at 800RPM) - this is roughly in line with where I was on the 2500K in terms of fanspeed. Despite this, my temps are worryingly high for idle. The Thermal Paste I used was pretty dry, I applied a couple dabs of the drier Noctua stuff then found some Arctic Silver which was still runny and applied that, so the total amount of paste is correct but half was dry and half was wet.. Kinda thinking once heat and pressure are applied the dry stuff will kind of mellow out and be fine. So right now I'm torn - I've heard older AMD boards have some kind of Energy management set up for Ryzen 1XXX series, which results in 2XXX and 3XXX running at higher clocks while idle. Is that the case? I'll have to check the BIOS when I get in, just wanted to check what idle temps I should be seeing with a high-end air cooler on a Ryzen 3600 at stock, thanks!