Boomy Beatle

https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450M-HDV/index.asp#CPU
You could go up to 5xxx series with a BIOS update on that board.
That being said, it's got tier E VRMs. Looks like the gurus are saying a 5600x is about as much as you'd want to put on that board. 3600 would work. 
 

Use DDU--Display Driver Uninstaller--and uninstall the old Radeon drivers. It might be causing a conflict.
 
My only other guess is the PSU. The 980 is more demanding than the 470, so upgrading may have caused you to more easily trigger shutdowns because of the increased power draw.

People like him are just throwing everything at the wall and seeing what sticks. He may have known you probably wouldn't fall for it, but there's no reason he wouldn't at least try.

People like him are just throwing everything at the wall and seeing what sticks. He may have known you probably wouldn't fall for it, but there's no reason he wouldn't at least try.

People like him are just throwing everything at the wall and seeing what sticks. He may have known you probably wouldn't fall for it, but there's no reason he wouldn't at least try.

People like him are just throwing everything at the wall and seeing what sticks. He may have known you probably wouldn't fall for it, but there's no reason he wouldn't at least try.

I would go for the 1000W, at least. 850W may be good enough to handle the 11900K and 3090 on their own, even during those quick power spikes, but with all the extra fans and lighting you plan on adding, you'll definitely need some room to grow. At that point you're more likely to find higher efficiency PSUs anyway. Gold is good, but it seems like it's quickly becoming the default.

Score of a lifetime right there.

Score of a lifetime right there.

On Sunday, while I was working at an e-waste dropoff/collection event, one guy came to drop off all sorts of unwanted peripherals inside a box, and immediately, I spotted what appeared to be an EVGA graphics card that was taken apart and asked the guy if the card worked. He claimed that it apparently burned out and couldn't get it to work.
 
After clearing the box, I found the waterblock (an EVGA hydro copper) and the backplate, but the mounting plate was missing, as were the screws to hold everything together. The GPU die had "TU-102" on it, and sure enough, the backplate had "EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti", as did the side of the waterblock.
 

 
Flash forward to yesterday, after digging out my tube of Artic MX-4 thermal paste, and enough screws to hold the backplate and waterblock in place, I put in some chilled distilled water, just enough to keep the card cool to see if I would get a video signal. Sure enough, the card came to life and was able to get a video signal without any artifacting at all while exploring the bios (I only tested it enough just to see if I got a video output and if it did, to see if there was any artifacting, didn't boot to windows as the water was only cold enough to last for a quick test)
 

 

 
After a quick google search, it turned out to be an EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 Ti XC Ultra, with the Hydro Copper kit.
 

 
Now all that's left is to find a new mounting bracket, and descale the waterblock (although I may convert it to air cooling, or at least get the NXZT or EVGA hybrid kit) and then I can do further testing.
 
What probably happened is poor maintenance on the previous owner's part, as the waterblock does have a significant clog, and it got to the point that the card triggered its thermal protection, and he probably thought it was fried as a result.
 
Can't beat a free 2080 Ti

Given your use case and desired upgrades, some kind of thin-and-light would be perfect. The Dell XPS line is highly praised and should easily fit into your budget if you spec it out well enough. They can come with lower-end GPUs, they're lightweight yet well-built, and they're pretty much designed to be docked. I'd recommend getting 16GB of RAM, although that's a personal preference of mine. 8GB has essentially become "bare minimum" in my eyes. Don't go over though, because at that point, you're wasting money considering your workload.

One possible solution is to simply reseat the GPU in the PCIe slot and doublecheck the power cables.

Check under the memory tab in task manager and see what's taking up the most RAM. Chrome gets more memory hungry with more plugins and having things like themes active. Also check if there are other major programs open you don't use and close them.

That worked, thanks. Just turned off iCue and disabled it at startup in task manager and did a quick restart.

Browse Amazon or Best Buy at the right time and you might find a sale as well.

Browse Amazon or Best Buy at the right time and you might find a sale as well.

I've always used PayPal to be safe, and thankfully it's only come in handy once.

No politics in the forum please.
 
In all seriousness, just because they aren't common doesn't mean they're bad. I've had the AG241QX for close to two years now, and it's been great. 1440p 144Hz for $300 at the time was as low as it got (although not much has changed), and even though it's a TN panel, it's been nothing but a great experience.

Forgot to say this too. Take GN Steve's advice: if what you have is no longer good enough for what you're doing, then you're good to upgrade. Just because now's a good time to upgrade doesn't mean that you have to.

Forgot to say this too. Take GN Steve's advice: if what you have is no longer good enough for what you're doing, then you're good to upgrade. Just because now's a good time to upgrade doesn't mean that you have to.

I'm currently running the black variant on my 2700X and it's great. In fact, my beefy GPU gets louder under load.

So, this isn't truly a troubleshooting thread: I've already figured it out.
 
HOWEVER, I did not find a single thread anywhere on google that described the problem I was having accurately, so I figured I'd throw the information out there.
 
The problem:
 
Whenever I close and subsequently open my laptop lid, the secondary/external monitor would flash and all windows would move to the laptop monitor.
 
The solution:
 
My refresh rate on my secondary monitor was set differently for the "Extend these displays" mode and "Second screen only" (or "mirror these displays" would also apply here) mode. One was set at 120hz, and one was at 144hz, for some reason. Once I updated both to 144hz, I stopped getting the flash AND my windows stopped moving. The laptop screen would still turn on, which isn't ideal, but is a lot less disruptive to Win+P it away when necessary than to have to deal with windows being resized/moved.

No politics in the forum please.
 
In all seriousness, just because they aren't common doesn't mean they're bad. I've had the AG241QX for close to two years now, and it's been great. 1440p 144Hz for $300 at the time was as low as it got (although not much has changed), and even though it's a TN panel, it's been nothing but a great experience.

In all seriousness, yes. Over the past few years, Ryzen CPUs have tended to drop gradually. The Ryzen 7 2700X launched at $330 US, and I got mine for $200 a couple months before the Zen 2 (Ryzen 3000) launch. Similarly, the 3600X was $250 at launch, and is down to about $200 now, with the XT taking that original spot. The drops aren't drastic, and it may take a while before any SKU sees a significantly better deal.

In Windows and basic web browsing, you'll probably be fine. Games are a whole different story. Depending of course on what resolution you choose (up to 1080p, I assume), you'll really only be able to play older games and/or at lower settings to take full advantage of 144fps.