Boomy Beatle

Agreed. I forget which one, but an Austin Evans video showed a PC that didn't boot because a specific pin on the HDMI connector caused a weird power spike. Changing the cable fixed it, so it might work for you as well.

Use DDU--Display Driver Uninstaller--and uninstall the old Radeon drivers. It might be causing a conflict. My only other guess is the PSU. The 980 is more demanding than the 470, so upgrading may have caused you to more easily trigger shutdowns because of the increased power draw.

People like him are just throwing everything at the wall and seeing what sticks. He may have known you probably wouldn't fall for it, but there's no reason he wouldn't at least try.

Take it off completely and check the cold plate (the metal that makes contact with the CPU). There's a chance you may have left the plastic peel on there.

I would go for the 1000W, at least. 850W may be good enough to handle the 11900K and 3090 on their own, even during those quick power spikes, but with all the extra fans and lighting you plan on adding, you'll definitely need some room to grow. At that point you're more likely to find higher efficiency PSUs anyway. Gold is good, but it seems like it's quickly becoming the default.

Maybe try eBay. You might not get something official, but for a piece of metal like that, it won't really matter.

When you say you checked the mounting, did you take the cooler off the CPU?

Remove the CMOS battery, leave it out for a few seconds, then pop it back in. Remember how it was oriented though, otherwise your BIOS won't save anything until you put it back in properly. This probably goes without saying, but do this while the PC is off.

For an air-cooled Alienware? Yeah, that's good, especially for peak.

Sounds like you did turn on the PSU switch on the back, so we can cross out that little mistake first. Your next course should be to reseat the RAM and the cables. Take off the side panel and keep it off, then switch off the PSU switch, but keep the PC plugged in. Go through the RAM sticks one at a time, then the power cables, trying to turn on the PC each time. Do it slow like this that way you know for sure what fixed it.

Score of a lifetime right there.

No, it'll work fine. The BIOS takes care of the most basic operations and system monitoring of your PC. The most common cause for anyone to really "need" to update their firmware is when they're putting a newer CPU into an older motherboard that supports it, but hasn't yet been updated. Other times some features will come out that you may want if you're more of an enthusiast. Should you ever decide to update the BIOS in the future, make sure you're not in a situation where the power can go out. You will brick your system.

I was just trying to match core-for-core, but yeah, those are some great points too.

Given your use case and desired upgrades, some kind of thin-and-light would be perfect. The Dell XPS line is highly praised and should easily fit into your budget if you spec it out well enough. They can come with lower-end GPUs, they're lightweight yet well-built, and they're pretty much designed to be docked. I'd recommend getting 16GB of RAM, although that's a personal preference of mine. 8GB has essentially become "bare minimum" in my eyes. Don't go over though, because at that point, you're wasting money considering your workload.

One possible solution is to simply reseat the GPU in the PCIe slot and doublecheck the power cables.

The AMD shill in me says the Ryzen 7 5800X would also be good, unless you have trouble getting one. But yeah, I'd also go with the 10900K instead for your workload, and it'll probably end up cheaper as well.

Check the motherboard manual and see if it says what the light means. It usually should.

Check under the memory tab in task manager and see what's taking up the most RAM. Chrome gets more memory hungry with more plugins and having things like themes active. Also check if there are other major programs open you don't use and close them.

I'd go back and install the correct ones. The spacing can be very particular on coolers, meaning a difference in degrees far into the double digits. When I still used my Wraith Prism (AMD "high-end" stock cooler, I didn't close one of the two latches all the way, partly due to laziness, and my system ran incredibly warm even at idle, even though it otherwise had good contact and thermal paste application.

TCL has one that's consistently one of the lowest priced options at that size. I have one and it's great. Picture quality's great in my opinion, and audio's good enough that until you reach a certain price point, soundbars won't give much of an improvement.

That worked, thanks. Just turned off iCue and disabled it at startup in task manager and did a quick restart.

Now that you mention it, I did install iCue recently since I got a pair of Corsair wireless headphones. I'll try that and give an update.

This only started a few days ago, but every time I turn on/wake my PC, the ASUS Aura-powered lighting in my PC turns off shortly after being functional for a few seconds. These just include the motherboard lighting and a couple of LED strips connected to an RGB header. I have all the lights in my setup set to white, including these, and I haven't changed any of it for several months now. Like I said, this is a fairly recent issue, and my stopgap solution is opening Aura every time and resetting the lights back to normal. They'll be fine until the next time I turn on/wake my system. I also double-checked my BIOS settings, but nothing was out of place there either. Any idea what I should do? If it helps, I have an ASUS ROG Strix B450-F Gaming motherboard, and two generic LED strips daisy-chained to connect to a single header.

EVGA in my opinion is out of the running since their motherboards are targeted towards overclockers, extreme ones especially. Also, I'm pretty sure that they make cases, and if so, I never hear anything about them, so I guess they're not good.

Browse Amazon or Best Buy at the right time and you might find a sale as well.