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Tales

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  1. I know this was already discussed here way back in 2014, but I just recently stumbled upon the same thing: The F310 gamepad seems to have the same internal PCB, and internal structure, as the F510. (A similar controller, that has rumble support) I attached to this post some pictures of the insides to show what I am referring to. The old-thread reminder said to consider starting a new post so here it is. In the previous discussion on this, they merely said they "added a vibrator motor," but I am not quite sure whether they had access to rumblers from an F510 or F710. If these are standardized, would an xbox360 controller rumble motor work (They are available dirt cheap)? Or would I need to specifically find the rumble motors from another Logitech controller? I am a broke college student, hence why I'm not too keen to just yolo it and start soldering any old motor to those leads. If there aren't any real standards for these things, does anyone know of a good place to start searching for motors that would work? Also, there appears to be an unanswered bit at the end of the thread on how to change the PID of the controller... Though, I would assume the solution would be to simply install the F510 driver onto the device. Does anyone know where I could find that driver? Images in spoiler tag for sanity:
  2. So... I really recently installed Mint Linux on my old HP Laptop, which was previously running Windows 10. This is going to sound really petty, but I miss that "Type here to search" search bar that's tacked right next to the start menu icon. It's just that half-second more convenient. I know that Mint is a very extensible distribution. Is there any way to recreate that functionality?
  3. Just to through it out there, the Tribit XFree Tune headphones are pretty sweet for their price ($40 USD, with bluetooth and good battery). Their audio quality is way above their pricepoint, with only a slightly boosted treble, and slightly muddy bass. Build quality's also top notch for that tier. Another caviat they have is that if you have large ears, they may not fit very nicely, as it's not hard for your ears to end up touching the inner lining of the cups. Still, for under 100, I would definitely vouch for them.
  4. Oh wow... I am an idiot. Thanks for the catch.
  5. I mean, it looks like KRK is cheaper new on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00EO7UNXO/ref=olp_f_new?ie=UTF8&f_new=true
  6. Port Orchard Washington... and wow... you were right to check facebook. There's someone local who is selling a lot of misc. Sony, Yahama, and Klipsch speakers... they look in good shape too. Reached out to them for model numbers.
  7. Thanks for the advice. I already stopped by my local goodwill just to see what could be had... It was mostly off/brand stuff, with a good few older yamaha speakers in the mix. There was also a cheap Logitech 5.1 system, but since all of that is hard-wired together, I don't think it's a good idea. Also, thanks for the suggestion on driver size... I'm pretty unfamiliar with what specs are good for which situations. Also, my speakers are placed on top of my desk, about 18" from the wall. Yeah, I didn't see much credibility in those that I have read. Many of them don't give any sort of comparison to their experience. When I was doing my own research, I quickly realized that amazon reviews and top-10 lists were pretty much useless. I will admit however, that when I started to search for audiophile reviews and recommendations, I was pretty intimidated by the prices tags. I can appreciate that quality audio costs a lot, but it's still rather difficult to find a good compromise between the two extremes. Any particular model?
  8. I've tried reading through older posts, as well as doing some external research, but I am having a hard time figuring out what a good pair of active speakers would be for my PC. I'm on a loose budget of $100, but if there's something really good that's a bit more expensive than that, I'm open to the idea. I'm already aware of the Edifier R1280T, but it looks like it has a some lacking coverage of the lower frequencies. The reason I'm not opting for a 2.1 system is because I had read here that for around the $100 range, it's better to focus the funds on more limited, higher quality system, leaving a sub-woofer as a possible upgrade in the future. Primary Usage: Metal / Orchestra music + Vocals / Dialogue Current Setup: Gateway/Diamond Audio G-MAX 2000 speakers Room Size: Small, 2nd floor bedroom, not sound-treated. DAC/AMP: On-board MSI Z370-A PRO All of that being out of the way, are there any suggestions you guys have?
  9. I mean, I figure it's not a limitation of purely the panel; As for the 75hz bit, I currently OC my 60hz monitor to 80hz, but I was able to get up to 83hz without any artifacts.
  10. I am being serious. I really want to know what the upper limits are. There's almost no info online that I could find regarding this.
  11. So... given that you disassemble the monitor's casing and actively cool the controller, is it possible to get a significantly higher overclock for the monitor? Would it be possible to say, bring a 60hz montior up to 144hz? Is there much knowledge one specifically which components within any given monitor are the limiting factors for overclocking?
  12. I agree that an AMD CPU would probably be a better fit, but I think that the added cost of switching motherboards would mostly erase those gains. And yeah, as I had mentioned, the plan is to eventually upgrade both, but I am torn on which to prioritize.
  13. I somewhat recently upgraded my GPU to an RTX 2070, however, I am severely bottle necked in almost every application I use my GPU's performance for. With a reasonably limited budget, I can probably only afford to upgrade one of the two main limiting components in the short-term. For reference, below is my system's specs: I do some light gaming (primarily indie titles, but will occasionally play a flagship title like BFV), but my primary use cases are for game development, 3d modeling, and for hobbyist work using Adobe Photoshop/Animate. I currently cope with simply closing all unnecessary processes when doing a demanding task, but I would like to mitigate that need as much as possible. Which is a better use of my efforts, to upgrade my CPU to a new i5, or to upgrade my ram to a proper 16 or 32GB? (As a side question, I know that there can be timing-related between different batches of RAM sticks, but is it safe/advisable to simply by 1 or 3 more sticks of my current RAM, or should I try and purchase a set, and then resell my current stick?)
  14. Does anyone here know whether or not the full slow-motion footage could be made public ally available? I think there could be some valuable data to be gained by analyzing the path taken relative to the position of the target, rather than purely the points at which the shots were actually taken. Does the increased frame rate result in more physically optimal tracking? (ie. if you take a mathematically predicted path for the target, and determine what movement is necessary to be in position during the next frame, how close is the actual movement to that optimal path?)
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