Hold-Ma-Beer

Actually it should go to the BIOS without any boot drive..
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?threads/b550-tomahawk-stuck-on-boot-led-no-screen.345269/
See this. They fixed it somehow by switching to HDMI. Try this?

It is nicehash, it is not actually mining bitcoin, but other algorithms that are infinitely more profitable, but the amount of money you make over a year is still zero, and I find that the amount of time you put into tweaking the miner, turning it on and off, is more valuable than zero.
So yes, I would stop doing that. As I said, a far more profitable option would be to just flatout buy crypto for that money that would have gone into your electricity bill instead, you would receive 100x more crypto from that.
 
If I calculated it correctly, you are currently getting about 2 euro cents per day if you would mine 24/7, you would find more money just walking on the street and collecting bottles, in my country a single bottle is worth 10 cents, and when you walk in the early morning you could find like 10 bottles in 10 minutes. So in a single 10 minutes walk you could earn 50x more than your miner gets you in a full day of mining.

CPU mining has never been worth it, even with latest CPUs.

Mining is no longer profitable, at all, ETH 2.0 is launched which effectively eliminate GPU mining. Stop mining with a GPU.
To illustrate, my 6800 XT used to make $1.7-$2.1 per day, now barely $0.2, that's how much its lost its profitability.

How have people missed the GPU mining collapse that happened a few months ago? It was all over the news, Ethereum is now PoS, so no more GPU mining basically.
You have noticed a lot of used RTX 3060's on your used market? That is why.
 
Just stop doing what you are doing, mining on actual GPUs is unprofitable, but what you are doing is just setting tiny amount of money (electricity bills) on fire for literally no reason what so ever. Even if you had free electricity it is still unprofitable, the time that you waste currently on trying to mine is worth more that the amount you would mine over 5 years. Even if you just slept during all that time, it would be a more efficient use of your time.
 
Please just stop. If you want to be a part of crypto community, just buy crypto, it would be 100x more efficient that the way you are currently doing it.

TDP is usually "what you have to plan for cooling long term", i.e. if you fully load the CPU for an extended period of time that's the amount of heat to get rid of. Doesn't mean that it won't go higher, sometimes significantly so by boosting for shorter periods of time if the conditions (temp, power delivery, OEM BIOS configuration) allow for it.
 
You can play with it using AATU on Ryzen chips.

Modernized version of Ryzen Controller. https://github.com/JamesCJ60/AMD-APU-Tuning-Utility/releases

Don't feel bad. None of the tech companies can agree to measure it the same way either. So confusion is normal.
 
 

The TDP of U-class chips is 15W. Modern CPUs will boost much higher to make the experience snappy and they saturate the cooler like that. The lower wattage in long high loads is due to the boost time. Your cooler probably wouldn't be able to keep up with 30 watts of heat from your CPU, therefore it has a boost time that makes it not throttle. Also you wouldn't want a CPU drawing 30 watts on a presumably 45WH battery because that would mean that you'd only get 1.5h of battery life at max load

Is this another case of socket melt-down? Cable socket not power supply melt-down. Have you tried wriggling it up and down and sideways as much as possible?

Can't you just sell the PC with the power cable plugged in? 

I mean yeah, I theoretically could.

Yes. Pc can't really be on when the power cable is disconnected from the wall socket now can it :p.
 
Or if it does well euh enjoy your fusion reactor I guess? 😛

So just to make it clear, the power cable is DISCONNECTED from the wall socket, and and pc is off.

Check the graphics settings too. I had a guy with an issue of laptop screen changing brightness  based on content.. Not same as yours, but is was solved by turning off some setting in graphic card drivers and windows. Check if anything similar present in your settings? 

i let it sit overnight i unplugged all the usb outlets and it turned on again i have no clue what could have happened but it works now upon booting i got an error msg saying to chnage my microsft and pc login but other than that it seems that theres nothing wrong thankj you all for the support

Update:
- so light night I ended up unplugging the PC and taking it apart sort of (removed GPU and removed and replaced some MOBO cables again), made sure everything is firmly in place, and it appears to have done the trick... so far it has NOT turned off like that, although i'll keep everybody updated, since i know that people are bound to google search this topic. 

Record what is happening. Like the whole process of you getting BSOD.

At this point, I'd recommend a fresh install. But looking at
Did you upgrade from windows 10 or was it a clean install? If it was not a clean install, I'd recommend doing so. Since you have stress tested every component after the system is stable and it does not crash, hardware can be put aside as it does not seems to be causing the failure.

1. Everything should be compatible.
2. You didn't include a cooler. If you don't mind it being loud the cooler included with the CPU should be enough.
3. Yes, everything should fit. 
4. 500w is the bare minimum I'd get with a system like this, but preferably 600w or more and a better quality unit. This unit is garbage.
5. Yes. The CPU cooler might be a bit loud, so if you want silence get something like a Freezer 34.
6. You can probably find an RX 6600 for cheaper than that 2060, and it's also faster. The 980 is usually overpriced af, something like a P2 or SN570 is usually a better option. The PSU and motherboard could also be better. If you can share links to some stores I could help with choosing better parts.

It could be that on battery, the more limited CPU and GPU clock speeds are actually keeping the laptop from hitting thermal limits ASUS has set in firmware.
 
Do you have any way of limiting the CPU or GPU like throttlestop allows for intel chips? I haven't had as much experience with AMD Ryzen, but AMD may have utilities that allow this (wattman?) Try limiting CPU and GPU speeds to match the clocks you see under battery mode, and see if you still throttle.
 
If you can't find any utilities that can do this, try just going into the advanced power seetings in windows power plan, and set max CPU utilization to like 99 or 95%. That may limit the CPU from boosting (it at least does for intel)
If all else fails, take the bottom cover off the machine, point the biggest fan you have at the cooling fins, and run your tests again. If your ad-hoc cooling allows the machine to run full tilt while plugged in, its almost certainly ASUS's firmware limitations.
 
Each laptop manufacturer is free to set its own thermal limits in firmware/bios outside of the 100* limit amd and intel use. This is why independant laptop reviews are so important, two different machines with the exact same specs can perform wildly different, depending on the manufacturer set limits, cooling, etc.
AMD machines especially have been treated as second class devices by lots of manufacturers for a long time. You'd commonly find skimping on cooling or build quality as they considered these budget devices. To make up for bad thermal solutions, throttling the power delivery is often a solution they went with.

Weird they should offer at least some type of over the phone tech support. Then yeah, I'd do a clean install (format and install, not just hit "System reset") to eliminate drivers/Windows install as the issue. 

Please, don't do that to yourself and your PS5, unless you have some kind of retro fetish. I would highly recommend you stick with the monitor, or pick up a decent priced 1080p TV.

I am actually impressed at how many details you gave while telling us none of what the parts actually are, and what's bottlenecking you...

no it shouldn't it should actually go back up to max speed and run faster your laptop is running back to front supposed to be fast with the AC plugged in not the other way around .